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Posts posted by afrakes
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Damn, up until a couple days ago I had always heard fi stuck behind their product, even in sticky situations. This is now the second time this week I've heard of fi not taking action on a warranty because of some stupid "user error". Huh.
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Awesome thanks for the info!
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Btw nice build. Been following closely to get ideas, keep up the good work!
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Out of curiosity where did you ground the battery at and where did you connect to engine block at? I'm doing the big 3 on my blazer this week and was looking around under there but didn't see a good place to ground batt within 3 ft of post, thinkin I may have to have a longer negative run and tap a hole in the frame, looks like that's what you did?
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Badass. Those lights look awesome, thanks for the link. I'm guessing the white light u got is the bright baby blue listed on the website? (Just shows me some color swatches, light blue to red)Well I decided I really liked how the led lights looked, so just spend $40 more dollars to change the back dome light, courtesy light by passengers feet, license plate lights, and engine compartment light.
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Could you send a link for the bulbs you bought? Been wanting to switch to LEDs for a while but unsure where to start. Be sure to post pics once they are installed if you wouldn't mind.Just bought the bulbs for the dome lights. Should be here in a couple days. They should just snap right into place. hopefully. lol
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That would blow. Y not put a temp system in your car your using now? Don't u already have gear waiting to be used??
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Ah ok. Yeah I purchased mine January '12, thing was flawless with straight body and only needed new tires. But like I said, I was young and dumb and didn't do my research, ended up paying $7500 including taxes, title, fees, and new tires. Only had 85k original miles one owner when I purchased tho. Sucks to see me go for the 3-4k range now tho
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I hope so too! It should all work out, just a waiting game on the dmv to process the paperwork. Gonna be at least a month before I can drive it, and hundreds of dollars. As long as I can drive it I'll be happy.
Ah, if you don't mind me asking what did you pay for the blazer? I overpaid on mine pretty bad (stealership, learned my lesson)and just wanna know what ballpark range they goin for
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Tuned. Always like to get ideas as a fellow blazer owner. Looks good so far and hope you get the title situation figured out. That's some shit.
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Ok thanks guys. I was really worried/bummed because I love being a part of this community so damn much. Glad to hear I didn't do anything wrong lol
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I only use mobile for the viewing of this forum, and while trying to log on the last few days I received a message (#2000 I believe) saying "your are not allowed to visit this community". And it wouldn't let me pull up my messages or do anything really. So I e-mailed big Steve and didn't hear back, but I figured I'd try logging in again today and it worked just fine.
I'm just curious if my username was suspended or if I did something wrong or if there was just site maintenance going on? Because if I did do something to deserve a vacation I would like to know what it was so I can learn/grow and not make the same mistake again.
thanks
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ah, ok. Thanks for the quick reply. Looks like we r sticking with 12 volt.you will need at least 2 more batteries.. 16v batteries have much less reserve than a 12v battery..
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In my buddys install we are working on, we wanted to run the 5k. Problem is, this is also a speed oriented car with the audio being secondary on the list of priorities. This won't be a daily driver by any means. Anyways, we are working with the restriction of an upgraded alt and and upgraded starter battery and nothing more (batt mounted in trunk).
That being said, we thought the 3.5k may be less strenuous on the electrical. I just noticed the 3.5k is capable of 5,100 watts at 18 volts. My question is if we get an externally regulated alt and a 16v battery, will running the amp at a higher voltage cause more electrical strain then running the same amp at say 14.4 volts (12 volt battery)?
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In my buddys install we are working on, we wanted to run the 5k. Problem is, this is also a speed oriented car with the audio being secondary on the list of priorities. This won't be a daily driver by any means. Anyways, we are working with the restriction of an upgraded alt and and upgraded starter battery and nothing more (batt mounted in trunk).
That being said, we thought the 3.5k may be less strenuous on the electrical. I just noticed the 3.5k is capable of 5,100 watts at 18 volts. My question is if we get an externally regulated alt and a 16v battery, will running the amp at a higher voltage cause more electrical strain then running the same amp at say 14.4 volts (12 volt battery)?
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Too small man. U putting it under the seat? If so just raise the bench a cpl inches an u could prolly port a 12 under there. 1 cube minimum for a 10, 2 cubes per 12. That's my general rule of thumb at least.
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Just give it to me an I will LEARN how to recone that ba boy.
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Alright I just wanted to check and see, I'm glad u replied Jon, just the man I wanted advice from lol... I think I'm going to make the purchase though, I would rather not have b-stock and I know I missed the smd sale a little while ago on the damplifier products, from what I have seen sales don't go on very often and I don't want to wait around for another one to happen, my rattles are bad!
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About to buy just under 22 sq. Ft. Of damp pro for 110 bux shipped, I know 20 sq ft sells for 110 plus shipping, so I'm guessing I'm getting a good deal, not screamming, but good. Any other opinions?
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Minimum 10 sq ft. Trying to get my trunk plus some done. No more that 40 sq ft needed, thanks!
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I have 2 of the stinger ones and they have worked perfect for well over a year now... I have 2 blue ones because my speedometer and tachometer are blue...I've never had any issues with how bright they are at night and they are both in plain view, never been pulled over for them or questioned about them.
Are they illegal to have?
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i got a stinger right now so far no problems, how i wired my was the postive and neg went to the battery then the remote went to the amp turn on wire,
Yeah that would be a good wway, didn't think about the turn on wire. Jjust an easier way to install a switch I guess lol
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http://www.parts-exp...tnumber=320-532
I have bought 2 of them... i haven't got around to putting it in my car but i did put it in my kids power wheel... seems to work great i could check with a dmm later also others on here i believe use it also. Can not beat for under 10 bucks
Yeah that looks real clean, I may just have to get that one, further research needed but it definately on the list! Pretty easy to install?
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The REN850S you list is 450W RMS and then you have a mid/highs amp, If you are experiencing dimming with that relatively light equipment I'd say your electrical is in rather bad shape, the voltmeter will show that but really this is about start working on it, have your alt, the alt cables and your battery checked.
Yeah I was wondering about that too. I have a new battery, although not a yellow top. But I really didn't think I needed to do electrical upgrades with this small of a system, its juust a basic car and I do thee work needed to it, but I am getting the 90,000 mile service done to it soon so I am going to have them check all of that when I go in for it.
SoundQubed/Fi Blazer - 4 Fi Team 18’s on 16k (rebuild time!)
in Member Rides & Builds -- Show off your whip, Show off your System!
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Did you need to do anything to remove the leftover adhesive from taking those panels off? Thinking about debadging my blazer as well