MatthewBigBossWilliams
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Posts posted by MatthewBigBossWilliams
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I take it it's not the hatchback version, it's the sedan? Get us the max dimensions you can fit in there and someone will help. Do you want it to be in the trunk, facing the back, or in the trunk sealed off? Also, how much power would it be seeing?
15H X 41L X 31W and 4200watts RMS
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Give me your max dimentions
well im going to get it re measured in the next hour or two soo ill send it then. I do believe it was 15H X 41L X 31W if i remember correctly. I also might change the sub size to an 18 if i can get it in there. also port faced towards the interior if possible
15 high but you'd like a front facing 18? I'm confused..
He mentioned facing the port forward, not the woofer. So he may want to do sub upward, port forward. Doesn't seem like it would be the best Setup though.
With the dimensions given, I got 9.1 cubes before displacement assuming 3/4" MDF.
where is the best place for that 15 to go then good sir?
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Give me your max dimentions
well im going to get it re measured in the next hour or two soo ill send it then. I do believe it was 15H X 41L X 31W if i remember correctly. I also might change the sub size to an 18 if i can get it in there. also port faced towards the interior if possible
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I need a box design for a 15in FI BTL tuned to 33hz, it will be put in the trunk of a ford focus 2001.
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Or you can get a d4 btl and strap amps at 1 ohm each.
wait what? please explain to the noob of this forum for i must be educated by the masters
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nevermind. had to get rid of the 2100's and get the Hifonics Brutus BRZ2400.1D. reason being, apparantly when you strap amps together, its like bridging the ohm load down. so if its at 1ohm, it wouldve seen .5 ohm and those amps cant do that
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I got a Fi BTL 15" in a focus...but its a hatch.
I think i made a miscalculation on the amp portion of this
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Hope it's a beefy 18 for that power
I made a mistake and it was an 15. But yea I will give you what im running in my car in a sec
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So your getting a 15? Which one
FI BTL.
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Should put your purse down and get a 21"
lol how bout a 24"
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I hope your focus is a hatch.
nope and it should be a 15 not an 18.
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I decided to get just 1 15in subwoofer for my 2001 ford focus. yes i know, i caved lol. Im running it off of 2 Hifonics Brutus 2100s
please note that I do realize it says 18 i made a mistake and i didnt do this to get more posts bla bla bla BS
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You could go with a BL with your current amp. You may need to turn it back a bit, but you can do it.
Don't be fooled, the BL's are damn loud. The new designs are really loud on the meter.
A BL in a daily VS a BTL wouldnt be too much different. In a competition vehicle it would make a difference...
I'd stick with the BL personally. Or go to a single BL 15"
12s have a tad bit more surface area then a 15. i was looking for lots of air movement and lows
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I cant afford the BTL at all. Because I would just get 2 audio q's and the BTLs. So lets just say it can go up to 2100rms for 1 12. is that ok?
Depends on a lot. Electrical, amp, wiring, box rise etc, which is why we said if you have to ask...
Because people who have the proper equipment would know that can handle 2K of very clean power...
It wont take 1K of dirty power.
4 - 5 cu.ft. box, Knukonceptz 0 guage wiring, (2)hifonics Brutus 2100. XS power 3100D, big 3 upgrade. 220a H/O alternator.
Should be fine electrical wise. I am not familiar with the amps. But they are the Brutus line, so they should be legit.
What options should i push for the BL if you dont mind me asking?
Select "Cooling", that eliminates the need for the hyper pole option, get the 4" coil upgrade, and choose Daily for the application. Also select the universal option.
As far as the voice coil config, D2 or D1 are good options. Are you strapping the amps (if they are strappable)? If so, go with the D2 option.
If you are running a single amp that can handle .5 ohms, go with the D1 option.
Look up this amp http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_23549_Hifonics-Brutus-BRZ2100.1D.html thats the amp and what not so i have no idea if its strapable. do i not get the flatwind option?
Flatwind improves the power handling. That would work fine, but you may need to hang back slightly on the power...
I would get a D2 sub and wire down to 1 ohm, and be careful on the power.
Or as suggested, upgrade to some of what CJ suggested.
hmmm I should just get the BTL's and run em at their RMS power till i can get mega powerful amps. its only 200 bucks more and i dont need to get the Audio Q amps now.
Please also keep in mind that I am getting 2 12's for a 2001 ford focus 4dr. would it be a better idea to just get a 15?
If you were going 2 12's id run a single amp. You'd be surprised what one 12" BTL would sound like in a nice box...
then with the amp im running, i wouldnt even be giving it 2krms
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I cant afford the BTL at all. Because I would just get 2 audio q's and the BTLs. So lets just say it can go up to 2100rms for 1 12. is that ok?
Depends on a lot. Electrical, amp, wiring, box rise etc, which is why we said if you have to ask...
Because people who have the proper equipment would know that can handle 2K of very clean power...
It wont take 1K of dirty power.
4 - 5 cu.ft. box, Knukonceptz 0 guage wiring, (2)hifonics Brutus 2100. XS power 3100D, big 3 upgrade. 220a H/O alternator.
Should be fine electrical wise. I am not familiar with the amps. But they are the Brutus line, so they should be legit.
What options should i push for the BL if you dont mind me asking?
Select "Cooling", that eliminates the need for the hyper pole option, get the 4" coil upgrade, and choose Daily for the application. Also select the universal option.
As far as the voice coil config, D2 or D1 are good options. Are you strapping the amps (if they are strappable)? If so, go with the D2 option.
If you are running a single amp that can handle .5 ohms, go with the D1 option.
Look up this amp http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_23549_Hifonics-Brutus-BRZ2100.1D.html thats the amp and what not so i have no idea if its strapable. do i not get the flatwind option?
Flatwind improves the power handling. That would work fine, but you may need to hang back slightly on the power...
I would get a D2 sub and wire down to 1 ohm, and be careful on the power.
Or as suggested, upgrade to some of what CJ suggested.
hmmm I should just get the BTL's and run em at their RMS power till i can get mega powerful amps. its only 200 bucks more and i dont need to get the Audio Q amps now.
Please also keep in mind that I am getting 2 12's for a 2001 ford focus 4dr. would it be a better idea to just get a 15?
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I cant afford the BTL at all. Because I would just get 2 audio q's and the BTLs. So lets just say it can go up to 2100rms for 1 12. is that ok?
Depends on a lot. Electrical, amp, wiring, box rise etc, which is why we said if you have to ask...
Because people who have the proper equipment would know that can handle 2K of very clean power...
It wont take 1K of dirty power.
4 - 5 cu.ft. box, Knukonceptz 0 guage wiring, (2)hifonics Brutus 2100. XS power 3100D, big 3 upgrade. 220a H/O alternator.
Should be fine electrical wise. I am not familiar with the amps. But they are the Brutus line, so they should be legit.
What options should i push for the BL if you dont mind me asking?
Select "Cooling", that eliminates the need for the hyper pole option, get the 4" coil upgrade, and choose Daily for the application. Also select the universal option.
As far as the voice coil config, D2 or D1 are good options. Are you strapping the amps (if they are strappable)? If so, go with the D2 option.
If you are running a single amp that can handle .5 ohms, go with the D1 option.
Look up this amp http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_23549_Hifonics-Brutus-BRZ2100.1D.html thats the amp and what not so i have no idea if its strapable. do i not get the flatwind option?
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I cant afford the BTL at all. Because I would just get 2 audio q's and the BTLs. So lets just say it can go up to 2100rms for 1 12. is that ok?
Depends on a lot. Electrical, amp, wiring, box rise etc, which is why we said if you have to ask...
Because people who have the proper equipment would know that can handle 2K of very clean power...
It wont take 1K of dirty power.
4 - 5 cu.ft. box, Knukonceptz 0 guage wiring, (2)hifonics Brutus 2100. XS power 3100D, big 3 upgrade. 220a H/O alternator.
Should be fine electrical wise. I am not familiar with the amps. But they are the Brutus line, so they should be legit.
What options should i push for the BL if you dont mind me asking? im going for daily btw
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I cant afford the BTL at all. Because I would just get 2 audio q's and the BTLs. So lets just say it can go up to 2100rms for 1 12. is that ok?
Depends on a lot. Electrical, amp, wiring, box rise etc, which is why we said if you have to ask...
Because people who have the proper equipment would know that can handle 2K of very clean power...
It wont take 1K of dirty power.
4 - 5 cu.ft. box, Knukonceptz 0 guage wiring, (2)hifonics Brutus 2100. XS power 3100D, big 3 upgrade. 220a H/O alternator.
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I cant afford the BTL at all. Because I would just get 2 audio q's and the BTLs. So lets just say it can go up to 2100rms for 1 12. is that ok?
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Can the FI BL 12in take 2400 watts of RMS?
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Dude the negative IS your ground. lol. If you want a temporary way to have a decent ground, just ground to your frame if its a vehicle with an actual frame. If your vehicle is a unibody construction then ground it to your strut tower for an alright ground. For a great ground, wire from the negative of your front battery to the negative of your rear battery. If you arent putting a battery in the rear of your vehicle or have no need to then forget running the ground from front to back, just ground it to your frame/strut tower.
For my truck my ground is run straight to my frame on my truck. I just drilled a hole big enough to fit the huge bolt into and then i took a tap and die kit and tapped the hole i drilled with threads so i could screw the bolt into the frame and not have to sneak a nut inbetween the frame to hold it. Once it was all threaded i took a wire wheel brush you can attach to a power drill and i held it on my frame to grind away all the paint in the area i was about to put the terminal onto. Then i bolted the wire up into the frame tight as all hell. Once i finished that i got some spray paint and painted over it so it wouldnt rust/corrode out on me in the winter.
I repeated this step in the back of my truck for the ground except i used the cargo bolts in the back as a way to ground from the inside to the outside where my frame was. I didnt want to drill a big ass hole through my floor or wheel well to feed the 1/0 wire through so i had the great idea to use the stock cargo bolt area, get a longer bolt and have a wire going from my rear battery bank to that bolt. Then i have a wire on the underside of my truck which goes from the bottom side of the same bolt to the frame of my truck.
OK I understand that. So i should definetley connect the batteries together, well thats no problem. I saved myself 1500 bucks then
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Either way will work but i personally like to do it all on the battery. I did my grounds from the battery to the frame of my truck, and from the battery to my engine's bolt. I also did my rear battery bank ground to the frame (right now i dont feel like making a run for ground from front to back battery but next year i will) and my voltage drop although it is minimal is the same from front to rear battery bank.
so connecting the negative to aground is a bad idea. just connect the negative to the negative of the front battery?
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Personally I would go with XS Power for the Battery. Dont bother messing with isolators either. Do the Big 3 upgrade under the hood in 0ga. If you have a battery in the back which I would recommend, you will then just need to run 1 each + and - from the front battery into the car to the rear battery. You can then hook up your amplifiers to the rear battery.
im going to have 2 batteries in the back and one in the front. soo basically just hook up the front battery to the 2 back batteries in the back?
Yep. Here is a basic description of what you will need to do
Big 3
0ga ground from alt to frame
0ga ground from front battery to frame
0ga power from alt to front battery
0ga power wire from front battery to positive post of first rear battery
0ga power wire from positive terminal of first rear battery to positive post of second rear battery.
0ga ground from first rear battery to frame.
0ga ground from neg post of first rear battery to neg post of second rear battery.
Id hate to sound like a noob, but you comepletely lost me. I am very very visual and hands on so if you can visually show me, I will take a picture in my mind
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Personally I would go with XS Power for the Battery. Dont bother messing with isolators either. Do the Big 3 upgrade under the hood in 0ga. If you have a battery in the back which I would recommend, you will then just need to run 1 each + and - from the front battery into the car to the rear battery. You can then hook up your amplifiers to the rear battery.
im going to have 2 batteries in the back and one in the front. soo basically just hook up the front battery to the 2 back batteries in the back?
Box Design for a 15in BTL
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Posted
oops my bad 3400. Hifonics Brutus BRZ2400.1D