na4now
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Posts posted by na4now
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did it pass the cat scan?
i like the idea.
I set it on the floor. Marvin ran up, sniffed it,... plop'd down, looked at me, and said... yep!
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FAT CAT!!! Good idea. Might have to try that myself.
He's not fat. Just husky!
I figure if I want to hit some lowwwws, ..I put on the 32hz port. If I want to listen to some rock, or metal, ...screw on the 42hz port. Or maybe it might not work that way, but regaurdless, ..it'll be adjustable.
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I was looking at some ports online, ...and decided to try to make one/some, instead. I bought a stick of 4" pvc. It's pretty thick stuff, ..hard to shape.
Im mounting the shorter section permanatly inside the box, about 4" off the back, ...and the female threaded coupler will be flush with the face of the box. Im going to make the outer section in a few different lengths. with male couplers, ..so I can play with the tuning. The outer section will be sticking out. I might try some different material, before I stick anything.
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do you want a real pic with cut sheets?
It's just a rectangle. I dont really need anything technical. My super ms paint plans above, should be suficient.
Im more interested in opinions on the size, and the port.
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Does this look ok to anyone?
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Im about to start building my box. It's going to be 1.75 net, and tuned to 34hz. This is what Ive come up with.
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Sexy dustcap. Put a dc sticker on it
I would, ..but they didn't give me a sticker, with the sub. I wouldve thought they would have sent one.
Not trying to hijack but if some one could answer my question, thats cone on your subs a dust cap? Is the original dc cone still under it? if I get one of the others (original cone) can I just buy this dustcap and place it on? I m getting one soon and like the look of this one more.Just a dust cap. Im sure you could put it on just about any sub.
your box needs to be built according to the power youll be putting on it. most of the DC 12's like 1.75 net. usually if you build the box smaller its to help control the sub because your going to throw more power than it can normally handle. smaller boxes will sound more tight and punchy, and larger boxes are going to sound more boomy.IMO you cannot really compare most of the other subs to the level 5. its way bigger and can handle way more power. thats why putting it in a larger box works well. is able to balance itself out.
this is from what ive learned when building boxes. theres always different ways to build box's but in most applications this is true
Keep in mind, ...I dont have a Lvl 5. Its an upgraded Lvl 4. So, ..since Im putting 2300 watts to it, ...thats why a 1.75 cf box would be good?
I still cant figure out the port. Would one 3" port be good? Because it would only need to be 7.2" long. Or should I have a 4" sticking way out of the box?
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2.5 cubes after disp's is way too big, aim more for like 1.5-1.75
Im @ 2.5 cubes on my lvl 5 12". Its much louder than the 1.6 CF box I made later to test. Both around 19 cubes of port per.
Thats what I dont understand. The guy at DC said that 2.5cf box is too big. Why do they say thats too big, ..and you say yours is much louder in a bigger box? Everyone I talk to tells me something different. Is there any way to learn how this stuff works? I only want to build this one time.
Im also trying to figure out what size port I should use. If I use a round 4" port, it needs to be 13.8" long. My box will only be about 10" deep. So, the port would have to stick out towards the rear of the car, quite a bit, ...depending on how close it is to the front of the box. If I use a 3" port, it only needs to be 7.2" long. BUT, ...a 3" port might be too small. I really dont know which to go with.
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This is the car. I called DC, ..and the person I spoke to recommended 1.75 net. And, ..use a 4" round port.
I read somewhere that a flared port is more efficient than a straight one. So, ..Im starting to look for a aero port. Thing is, ..my trunk space is very limited. The port will have to stick out of the box.
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See, ..I read that it should be somewhere around 1.5. When I mentioned that to a couple different people, they said that thats bs, ..its way too small. I talked to a guy running a 3.5 cu box, for one 12"! According to this guy, ..the bigger the box, the louder it will be. I dont understand the concept. I cant find any info, ..on how it works, ..or at least the basics of it.
The car its going in is a SC300 Lexus. The gas tank is in the trunk. So, it will be rear facing. Im using a DD M2a for it. 1 ohm.
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It took a little longer than expected, ...but it came today!
Lvl 4 12", lvl 5 soft parts, extra spider, inverted dust cap.
Now, ..I still have to figure out what type of enclosure to build. I cant seem to find any good info on it, ..and asking doesnt get answers, either. Im leaning towards 2.5cu ft net, ..with two 4" pvc ports, ...somehow tuned to 34htz.
And some other goodies, going in the car!
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nothing wrong with a pair of DC's!
i waited almost 4months for mine, glad u decided to wait. wont regret it
4 months? Why? I placed my order for just 1 12" sub, ..and they said tun around is only 3-4 days.
Orders that are placed now have a turn around time of 3-5 days. Until about 3 weeks ago they motors had been out of stock since the first of march.
Ohhhh, ..I see. Looks like it worked out great for me!
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nothing wrong with a pair of DC's!
i waited almost 4months for mine, glad u decided to wait. wont regret it
4 months? Why? I placed my order for just 1 12" sub, ..and they said tun around is only 3-4 days.
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Hey guys, ..my first post here. Ive been doing some searching here, the last few days. Im putting together a nice/semi budget sound system for our shop car, ...a 99 SC300 Lexus.
Heres what Im working with so far. Almost ready to start installing, ..and definately need to start working on an enclosure, amp racks, wiring, trim panels, ect.
HU: Alpine 9886
Front: DD cs6.5 components
Rear: DD 6.5 coaxials
on a DD SS4 amp.
Sub: DC 12" lvl 4/5 hybrid
on a DD M2a amp.
Im using either a Kinetic 800amp power cell, in the trunk, ..or I might just run full size Optima yellow top. Also installing a 200amp alternator, and of course doing the big three.
Using Knuconceptz Krystal rca's, their Klear 12g speaker wire, and their Karma SS 8g wire for the sub. Then, 0g and 4g for the rest, ..using some wire that I already had.
I ordered the sub, today. It's a DC 12" lvl 4 with lvl 5 soft parts, dual 2's, and an extra spider. Also, got a carbon fiber concaved dust cap, ....so it looks perty!
My delima Im facing now, ..is the ported enclosure. I've heard that it should be as small as 1.5cu ft, to as big as 2.5cu ft. When I was on the phone with the DC rep, ..he said 2.0cu ft. And, it should be tuned to 32-35 hertz. I just dont see how such a tiny box, like 1.5cu ft, ..could do much. Maybe I just really dont understand how sound waves work.
I dont know if it should be a retangular port, or like an aero port? This box is in the trunk, and the subs will be facing the back of the car. The back seats dont fold down, ..plus the gas tank is in the front of the trunk, limiting the box's depth.
I want this thing to hit hard. Would like to be 140+ db. I need it to be no more than about 12" deep, for everything to fit in my trunk (I have air ride also). I have plenty of room for the height, and width. Any opinions of what type/size of enclosure?
I tried downloading a box tuning calculator,. but I cant get it to open. Any help, or even a point in a good direction, is greatly appreciated. If I can get the right design and dimentions, I can build a good box. Ive only done sealed boxes, back in the day, ...but I do have experience building things/working with wood.
Fuurrrrkkkkkk u DC Audio. What should I do?
in DC Sound Lab - Big Bass on ANOTHER LEVEL!
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I'll be putting 2300 rms to my lvl4, here shortly. It has the lvl5 soft parts and an extra spider, though. I really didnt think that is enough power, to justify getting the XL. I guess Im about to find out!