97Jetta1637

correct, he had the amp down to 1/4 power so it wouldn't blow the sub (well to late now.)

I'm not to sure of what the first sub was, it was parallel (i think) and 15 professionally, 7 on his own. The first sub was already broke it, as it was about 9 years old. The second one didn't have enough time to be broken in, it was only an hour old, on half power (the deck goes up to 50) in the process of being broken in, the deck eq was set to bass +4 mid +1 treb -1 so it wasn't to terribly loud

I have now been through two subs within the past two weeks. They're not being over powered, and the wiring is all done right, professionally installed by a guy with 20+ years of knowledge. He has the gains turned down on the amp, checked the terminals, and tweaked the crossover after putting the second sub in, today. Well within an hour of the new sub ( the sub ) being put in the bass dropped, so I turned the stereo off and immediately, the whole car reeked of burnt electronics. I called the guy who installed it and said he had no idea what would cause it. The amp is a crossfire cfa602 so the sub has plenty of power, but he only has about 150-200 going to the sub since it's rms is rated at 250. what else, the wiring is all brand new from KNUKonceptz, 4 gauge, and there's RF 10 gauge speaker wire, brand new for the doors and rear panel. Not sure if it matters, but the sub is also in a recommended box size, at 1 cubic foot sealed, the minimum for it is .85 and max is 1.75. Now to my question, what would the issue be to cause two subs (the first sub I had was an old pioneer premier, not sure of the model, the back is all scratched off) to blow within two weeks?

Untitled Topview Insidebox Halfbox This is what I am currently looking at, with my design.

@SnowDrifter This isn't for my subs, currently I have a 15" P1 fosgate and waiting on currency for the other, but this idea was constructed due to a friend of mine having two different subs and wanting to box them together. I'm also working on the port area now, my idea with that is, when the wall is removed completely (the adjustable part) you can work it just like a regular port. you can remove it and adjust it, but you will have to make the port length attachable to the port that is currently built it, in order for it to be tweaked so the plastic piece doesn't need to be removed. Some feedback would be appreciated on the port since this is all a build from scratch and there's no information about it. @Mha I just google searched, adjustable box. @Maxim This is true, a self made box is better, but it's like everything else, people are generally lazy. They don't know how to construct a box or want to be taught, so they will always buy one.

I personally don't want two different subs in one car, but I have friends at school who had that problem at one time. I just threw that example in there for a poor mans box. The main idea of it is so you don't have to make a whole new box, unless the subs literally, will not work in the space I designed. I suppose it would be more trouble in the short run; but if someone isn't doing it for competitions, and just using it as a normal everyday dual box it could be beneficial for whenever they need to get another sub. As for the port, I truthfully never thought about it .

I've been toying with the idea of an Adjustable Sub Box. I see that there is one on ebay, but that's for dual 12's and can't hold two different sub types. I've made a rough detail of my idea on AutoCAD2012 (a program which enables architecture and design) where the box, is 42"x24"x16", with 1" think material. I don't currently have photos of it, but I'm still working on the final product and will take screenshots when done. The box itself looks like a vented box. There is a 3"x22"x1" square hole in the middle, like a vented box, and the whole interior is gutted. Why you ask, because the wall inside of the box is the adjustable part. On my rough detail currently the box is adjustable between 9 different sizes (all sizes now are for the INSIDE of the box, so measurements at 2" shorter than outside). 17.5"x22"x14" / 16.5"x22"x14" / 15.5"x22"x14" / 14.5"x22"x14" / 13.5"x22"x14" / 12.5"x22"x14" / 11.5"x22"x14" / 10.5"x22"x14" / 9.5"x22"x14". As you can see by the math, the box can hold anywhere from a 8" sub to a 15" sub. With the inside wall, where the vent is, that is movable; that also means it has varying cubic footage inside. I did this for the occasion, a person that has two different subs, for example. One, 12" Pioneer and one, 15" Kicker, both have completely different needs for a box, and both are different sizes. With the adjustable wall on the inside, the box can hold the Pioneer with plenty of room, and on the other side of the box, the Kicker is in comfort, at max size, which is roughly 3.2 CU.ft. Another problem I ran into, the box itself. I had to make two boxes inside of one, each one is a ported box, with a plastic cover that is 1/8" thick so it can release air, and allow minimal battle between the two subs themselves. The port on the "two" boxes are faced towards the vent so it can release the air. Now, the final problem I ran into, how the h*ll do I make it adjustable? Well, the walls both have a piece of rope roughly 4" long, so you can take both side panels off, and pull or push the wall into pre-drilled screw holes. There are 2 screw holes on each side, for each size. So, that's a total of 8 screws, for each side, or 16 screws for dual subs; but with 18 options, and 16 screws for one box, that can add up to be a total of 288 total holes. This is where I came up with the idea, solid rubber tubes. Eventually people get rid of subs and get new ones. So they'll need to readjust the wall. With the rubber tubes, they're 1" long, they fit the slot where the screw used to be, and all you do it duct tape over it once the tube is inside, simple fix. Now that I've done everything I could think of to iron out the wrinkles; I ask you guys/gals this, what kinks do you see I don't? I'm not perfect, and never will be, but I've been contemplating about this idea for about a month and finally put it into motion on AutoCAD. I'm looking for all outside help I can receive because eventually, I'd like to try this idea out in my car. Thank you in advance for the advise. P.S. It's difficult to explain the way the box looks due to the complex nature of making an adjustable box, all the while it being a ported and vented box. The 3d model I currently have makes it look actually somewhat plausible; but this being my first take on it, there's always the possibility of it failing.