DeathByWaffle
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Posts posted by DeathByWaffle
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Hey, atleast its not like mine and after awhile of playing it turns off, its because I draw to much power:)
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I wish I was getting this one lol
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Can be deleted. Thanks.
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Your a lucky sum bish a saz-3500 for 500 hell the 2500s go for that.
I know, one saz-2500 went for 450$ around here lol:)
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Can we use the DD-1 meter on it then? And thanks bro.
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This amp is sweet and brian. I wanna hear that truck when you get it finished. Also, do you think we could multimeter this thing so there is no clipping or distortion?
Would be cool if we could. Thanks again.
Jesse
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Whats the fuse rating on it? 300 a's right? Do you think it can take more? and does anyone know what is was clamped at, @ 1 ohm? Maybe around 14.4 volts of power
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It is in good condition. Nothing is wrong with it and it does work.
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This guy is offering me a saz-3500d for $500. Is it worth it or can I find a better amp or amps for better the price and more or the same power as this one.
Thanks,
Jesse
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If the amp is not 1 ohm stable, that could be alot of the problem.
You got a very good point there my friend:) But I really want a amp that produces a good 2000 watts at 1 ohm. But I still have yet got the right one. Also lol. I know I shouldn't run it at 1 ohm
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Just wanted to say, my subs are wired at 1 ohm.
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Do not get a lanzar amp either... What the hell? Lol this thread is getting bad!!!!!!!! Check your ground also, it should be grounded to something that goes directly to the cars frame, make sure the area is ground down to bare metal and that it not some crappy sheet metal or something. And you need to know what impedance your subs are wired at, that's pretty damn important, that could be a big problem
That's what i was thinking about lanzar amps. I standed down where my ground is and it attached to the cars body so it should be fine.
Subs are wired in parallel/series
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A DMM is a Digital Multi Meter. It's very simple to use, and if you plan to continue in this hobby its a great tool to have.
Oscope is a shortened version of oscilloscope. The DD-1 is a Distortion Detecter than Tony D'Amore and Steve Meade have just released. It detects distortion, and clipping causes distortion. So it basically detects clipping as well. I believe that is how it works.
What brand 1/0 wire? Have you tested the resistance of your ground connection?
Yes, definitely learn how to do it. It's incredibly simple.
AGM is Absorbant Glass Mat, a type of battery.
By reputable, I mean an amplifier that is proven to do rated power. Maybe reputable isn't the word I was looking for lol.
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My dad has a DMM but it doesn't show the graph and all that. Just numbers and stuff haha.
How much does this so called DD-1 cost?
Um this guy that knows a lot about car auido said I have the newest 1/0 wire. Its some QA wire. He said its good s*** lol.
So what battery would you suggest?
How would I know if its the proven to do a rated power?
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Take a DMM and measure the resistance of the subwoofers coils. Subtract the resistance from the leads of the DMM and you will find out what impedance the subwoofers are.
Your gain should be set according to the input voltage from the headunit. You will need to use a oscope or DD-1 to ensure you are not clipping. LPF should be set between 60-Eighty hertz, Subsonic should be set 5hz below box tuning, so roughly 30hz.
Run the largest wire that your amplifier will accept. Make sure the ground is good. Your electrical system is only as strong as it's weakest link. If possible, ground directly to the battery.
You need to order some 1/0awg wire and upgrade your big 3. It is very simple and takes no time at all.
Your not ready to run 4000wrms, so build your way up to it. Get a nice AGM battery or two, and purchase a reputable 1k-2kw amplifier. Work your way up to more power as you gain more experience and knowledge. There is no rush, you have all the time in the world
Not if it ends in 2012 !!! dun dun DUUUNNNN. just kidding yall. besides, we got at least another 1000 years after the apocalypse (:
ZOMBIES?
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Take a DMM and measure the resistance of the subwoofers coils. Subtract the resistance from the leads of the DMM and you will find out what impedance the subwoofers are.
Your gain should be set according to the input voltage from the headunit. You will need to use a oscope or DD-1 to ensure you are not clipping. LPF should be set between 60-Eighty hertz, Subsonic should be set 5hz below box tuning, so roughly 30hz.
Run the largest wire that your amplifier will accept. Make sure the ground is good. Your electrical system is only as strong as it's weakest link. If possible, ground directly to the battery.
You need to order some 1/0awg wire and upgrade your big 3. It is very simple and takes no time at all.
Your not ready to run 4000wrms, so build your way up to it. Get a nice AGM battery or two, and purchase a reputable 1k-2kw amplifier. Work your way up to more power as you gain more experience and knowledge. There is no rush, you have all the time in the world
I'm a noob lol so here I shoot my questions.
What is a DMM(Digital multi meter) I believe that's right. But I don't know how to use one.
I have no clue what a oscope is or a DD-1. This amp only has a gain and a LPF button lol.
Well I have 1/0 wire running for the amp but I think the amp only accepts 4 gauge. I have the ground on where my spare tire sits. So I don't know if its safe or not.
I need to learn how to do the big 3 cause I have no clue how to do it.
I have no idea what AGM means.
Reputable I am guessing is a amp that can transfer the signal to another?
Thanks for your help.
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First off, subs don't produce any watts at all. Second, if your car is dimming that bad just from a Sony 1000 watt amp which really clamps more like 300 watts if even that, then you probably have another weak link somewhere in your cars charging system. 4000 watts is definitely going to have to have a big high output alternator and a big batt up front with a couple little batts in the back. Just with that your at your $1000 dollar mark. If I were you man I'd try to figure out why your voltage is so low, and then I'd just buy a better amp that does a true 1200-2000 watts and go from there.
Not to mention I have blown the fuses on the amp, and I put the amp in protect mode a lot, but my car really rocks when everything works. I get sweet steering wheel flex. People can feel it when they are inside there car from 2 car lengths away
turn gain down on amp lil bit n tune ur eq on deck. ive nvr put any of my amps in protect yet(:
should I put my amp off of LPF or keep it on. Cause I also have my head unit set on 80 hz the same as the amps LPF
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also, there are better batteries for the price than yellowtop optimas. when i first started on this forum, i thought they were top of the line. man was i rong
Ya I have been reading some bad reviews about them, but that goes for all batteries. They cant all be perfect.
well to tell you they are ok not the best bet... thats what i got in my cargo but i also paid 50. for it (special thanks to friends at o'riely's) would def choose a different battery if you goin to pay retail on a yellow top. and i believe you alt is stock 90 amps if i remember right
Beats me bro, but if that's what it is I thank you for the info.
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Alright ill start out with what I have and then tell you what I think I need and hopefully I can get some answers with what will help me out.
So I currently have 2 Elite spl v.2 RD audio 15's in the trunk of my 1995 sunfire. They are currently sitting in a box that is a little over 6 cu.ft. and the box is tuned to 35.5 hz. (I don't know what ohm my subs are, but I have them wired to 2 ohms I think. All I really know is that they produce 2500 rms each.)
The amp I am running is a 1000 watt sony xplod. Does not take 1/0 and is 2 ohm stable.
I have 1/0 wire, from the front of my car to the back, and I have some extra 1/0 if a extra battery is required.
Everything else on my car is stock, stock battery, stock alt.
I do not have the big 3 upgrade. I have no idea how to do it.
The dimming in my car is beyond what you can think. My car always acts like its about to die when I play my subs. My car is a manual and at times I have to turn the brights on at night just to see the road cause the draw I get from the sub/amp just kills my vision at night.
Now ill start with some of my questions and what I might need.
2 things I know I need but I have no clue what models I should get or brands.
I need a amp that can at least push 4000 rms. If possible somewhere around there. So if someone could help me that would be nice.
I'm trying to get a amp that is 1 ohm stable.
I was gonna buy 2 yellow tops but I wanted to know what ones I should buy or if there are other batteries ill need would be helpful.
I guess I am kinda on a budget but I have 1,100 to spend right now.
Thanks for everyone's help, just wish I could be as good as Steve lol. Hes really been my inspiration to Car Audio. True Story.
lanzars got a 4k n 5k watt amp. you find em all over cheap.
http://www.woofersetc.com/p-9470-mxa284-lanzar-5000-watts-2-channel-mosfet-power-amplifier.aspx
check it out. i almost bought it. i got the 3k instead though. they work awesome and sound good. as for batts, im going ds3100. and id go mechman 220 alt.thats what im doing anyway. n my system in my blazer pulls so much power that my high beams are barely visible.
That amp your showing me is 2 ohm stable. And dang lol.
yessir. n the 220 mechman alt n d3100 are going into my 1973 dodge dart swinger.
But i wanna get one that is 1 ohm stable since I don't know if my subs are 1 ohm or 2 ohm
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First off, subs don't produce any watts at all. Second, if your car is dimming that bad just from a Sony 1000 watt amp which really clamps more like 300 watts if even that, then you probably have another weak link somewhere in your cars charging system. 4000 watts is definitely going to have to have a big high output alternator and a big batt up front with a couple little batts in the back. Just with that your at your $1000 dollar mark. If I were you man I'd try to figure out why your voltage is so low, and then I'd just buy a better amp that does a true 1200-2000 watts and go from there.
Not to mention I have blown the fuses on the amp, and I put the amp in protect mode a lot, but my car really rocks when everything works. I get sweet steering wheel flex. People can feel it when they are inside there car from 2 car lengths away
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Big 3 first of all.. not that hard i have done a chevy cav not much different cars... could help you with that. and second get a different battery you will spend more for 2 yellows then you would a decent xs power or kinetics. after you spent money on that then see if you got enough for the 4000wrms amp. a h/o alt will be a plus but not completely necessary yet as long as you keep your batts topped off with power. i have a second battery in my cargo with stock alt. and would charge it every nite. so start there then move on. my opinion
One problem is, is that I might be selling this car, so I want to keep away from the h/o's
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also, there are better batteries for the price than yellowtop optimas. when i first started on this forum, i thought they were top of the line. man was i rong
Ya I have been reading some bad reviews about them, but that goes for all batteries. They cant all be perfect.
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4k? With a stock alt? How any amps is your alt?
probably 70, but my car is manual everything
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Alright ill start out with what I have and then tell you what I think I need and hopefully I can get some answers with what will help me out.
So I currently have 2 Elite spl v.2 RD audio 15's in the trunk of my 1995 sunfire. They are currently sitting in a box that is a little over 6 cu.ft. and the box is tuned to 35.5 hz. (I don't know what ohm my subs are, but I have them wired to 2 ohms I think. All I really know is that they produce 2500 rms each.)
The amp I am running is a 1000 watt sony xplod. Does not take 1/0 and is 2 ohm stable.
I have 1/0 wire, from the front of my car to the back, and I have some extra 1/0 if a extra battery is required.
Everything else on my car is stock, stock battery, stock alt.
I do not have the big 3 upgrade. I have no idea how to do it.
The dimming in my car is beyond what you can think. My car always acts like its about to die when I play my subs. My car is a manual and at times I have to turn the brights on at night just to see the road cause the draw I get from the sub/amp just kills my vision at night.
Now ill start with some of my questions and what I might need.
2 things I know I need but I have no clue what models I should get or brands.
I need a amp that can at least push 4000 rms. If possible somewhere around there. So if someone could help me that would be nice.
I'm trying to get a amp that is 1 ohm stable.
I was gonna buy 2 yellow tops but I wanted to know what ones I should buy or if there are other batteries ill need would be helpful.
I guess I am kinda on a budget but I have 1,100 to spend right now.
Thanks for everyone's help, just wish I could be as good as Steve lol. Hes really been my inspiration to Car Audio. True Story.
lanzars got a 4k n 5k watt amp. you find em all over cheap.
http://www.woofersetc.com/p-9470-mxa284-lanzar-5000-watts-2-channel-mosfet-power-amplifier.aspx
check it out. i almost bought it. i got the 3k instead though. they work awesome and sound good. as for batts, im going ds3100. and id go mechman 220 alt.thats what im doing anyway. n my system in my blazer pulls so much power that my high beams are barely visible.
That amp your showing me is 2 ohm stable. And dang lol.
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E12
in Sundown Audio - GREAT Amps/Subs! GREAT Customer Service!
Posted · Edited by DeathByWaffle
I was just wondering if I would be able to use 2 e12's in a 5 cu.ft. ported box. Dimensions W x 38 , H x 14 , D x 26. And the box is tuned at 34 hz. Just asking, I know the specs on the sub are 2.0 cu.ft max (recommended). But I just wanted to see what everyone else has to say. After displacement it would be 4.76 cu.ft. The subs would also be under powered maybe running about 700-800 rms Thanks to everyone that has an answer for me!