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Posts posted by 206xtreme
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looks to be the excite wire.. i wired it to my ignition and my alt started charging.. though im not running the avbm but should work the same.. contact mechman first before taking my advice
That's what I also thought. But I would like to take a second opinion.
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Hi, I got the AVBM II module for the universal alternator. Problem is that in the plug that hooks up on the alternator there is a yellow (and a blue) wire which I can't find out where it has to be wired. The blue one is pretty much obvious where it has to be wired.
On the instructions there is nothing said about this yellow wire.
Instructions say nothing about the wiring of this. Can somebody help me out?
Thank you.
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9500 DD G motors + DD C basket and DD cones? Bingo?
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these are the mid grade woofer they have the z and the ns above this motor
Ok then. My fault. You can imagine my dissapointment when I thought that this could be the biggest series. I would like to see also the big guys in their new clothes.
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All I can see is massive foams and tiny little motors (I hope I am wrong, but that's what I can see from the pictures). Are those subs shown in the pics the "greatest" series? Or there are better to come?
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Even if you use a 0dB a -5dB or a -10dB track, the clipping (the point that your pulse will not be a sinewave and will start being squared) will be in the exact same point! So don't worry about it. I would go with a 0dB to see where my deck clips and with a -10dB with my subs or mids wired on the amplifier to set the amp gain.
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the orange mid range speakers look exactly like SPaudio's!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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And the cost higher
Edit: the subwoofer heavier and thus more difficult to handle, the cone kevlar or carbon and thus more expensive, extra spiders = more expensive etc etc...
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I wouldnt even attempt it. You'll be ruining two motors in the process of trying to frankenstein them. the SMD uses a much different technology.
I dont think I am ruining both motors... :S I can unstick the aluminium from the down side and stick ferrites together... That's the first step...
Anyway I 'll try it sometime I hope...
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I guess the result (if I manage it) will not leave me unsatisfied... I wish I had time and motors to try it...
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I know. I have seen it. xD I mean is it an easy job to do it by yourself or you need many tools and professional stuff?
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Thanks.
I have another question also. Would it be easy to install more magnets in the same motor?
I mean if I can find a useless 9515 motor, could I unstick the magnets from it and stick them to mine? I know I have to make a custom VC after but that's not a big deal. I would like to know if anyone has tried something like this before. Not necessarily with 9500's subs but with whatever sub.
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Hello, I have a question. How DD subwoofers are made supercharged? I mean I have seen a ring magnet that we can attach on the motor and supercharge them but how is that working and where can I find such rings?
Thanks
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Hello guys. I need your opinions on those subs.
I am comparing DD 9515 to T3 T2000 15"
Which one would you pick and why?
Thanks in advance!
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As soon as the second 9515 found I need an 8" CF dustcap to match my other one.
If anyone has any spare from any destroyed subwoofer please let me know...
Thank you all.
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If there was a chance for me to be sent a subwoofer from the US,with a shipping method other than airplane,which means far more cheaper,I would prefer the US one.The only problem is shipping because of the weight.I'll also ask that guy you mentioned above if he has any. Thanks
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I am looking for a Digital Designs 9515G D2 in good condition.
I am from Greece so shipping would be a problem that's why I would prefer offers from Europe but from the US are also welcome.
There is a complete 15 F D 2 at German E-bay.
Thanks m8 but I would like to pair mine. Not sure what the differences between the G and the F motors are so not sure if this fits me... Mine has a triple stacked magnet for example.
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I am looking for a Digital Designs 9515G D2 in good condition.
I am from Greece so shipping would be a problem that's why I would prefer offers from Europe but from the US are also welcome.
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The only thing I know is that they are made by the same company (Directed).
But which of the two is best in specs?
I would like to know your opinions.
Thank you.
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Well before digging into the guts, go through all the wiring and make sure that checks out. If that doesn't fix it, relocate the amps. If the problem goes on.... Then bust open the amps and take a look. Or look into getting some quotes on amp repair. I haven't repaired amps simply because I don't trust myself 100%
haha that's for sure!!!! I don't either trust me 100%.
I'll follow your advice. But as far as I checked RCA's are well-placed, remote doesn't change anything, power wires + grounds are ok.
Thank you very much!
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you can try mounting your amp with rubber spacers. otherwise you might have to move it and hope its not damaged completely.
What could possibly be the damage? For example to I have to reenforce any solders on the gut?
It's not a good idea to solder the guts yourself unless you know what you're doing.... But when the amps are mounted on the box or a surface that jumps around a lot, when the bass hits, the amp jounces up and down, after enough times it will start jarring loose the internals of the amp.
I study at the technical university electronic and computer engineer. I don't have too much experience but I guess I will give it a try. Will I be able you think to find out what to solder? That's my problem. How to find it...
Have you looked at the internals yet? There's a lot of stuff in there and it's going to be extremely hard to find out what is loose, unless it's blatantly obvious.... I suggest do a lot of research on the amps and all the internals.
Yes I have seen the internals many times from many amplifiers. This is the problem. I want to believe that I will easily find what is loose but what if not?
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you can try mounting your amp with rubber spacers. otherwise you might have to move it and hope its not damaged completely.
What could possibly be the damage? For example to I have to reenforce any solders on the gut?
It's not a good idea to solder the guts yourself unless you know what you're doing.... But when the amps are mounted on the box or a surface that jumps around a lot, when the bass hits, the amp jounces up and down, after enough times it will start jarring loose the internals of the amp.
I study at the technical university electronic and computer engineer. I don't have too much experience but I guess I will give it a try. Will I be able you think to find out what to solder? That's my problem. How to find it...
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Loose remote wire?
You'd be surprised, had an issue like this once for weeks trying to figure it out, turned out remote wire was loose
I wish it was the problem... But I don't think so. When I touch the remote wire nothing happens. When I hit with my hand the amp it statrs working again....
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you can try mounting your amp with rubber spacers. otherwise you might have to move it and hope its not damaged completely.
What could possibly be the damage? For example to I have to reenforce any solders on the gut?
Mechman AVBM II module
in MechMan Alternators and 12v Accessories
Posted
In any occasion, this is a 12 volt positive wire. I mean, it's an ignition or a constant, but not a ground. So I can try out without making any damage.