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Blackedout

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Posts posted by Blackedout

  1. Steve... Wanna keep this short and simple.

    I appreciate this community, and what you have done to create it, what you constantly do to contribute to it. You've personally sent me some money from a SOTM comp, which I was very thankful for.. And always will be. That shit doesn't grow on trees nor does it come easy.

    What I have noticed is that the a ton of your energy goes to commenting on the posts that haters create. A hater tells you "my system is louder with my cheap gear and way less power" ... You might rebuttle to that over recognizing the fan that says, "badass system!!"

    You get much so much more praise than you do hate, but you like to tell the haters what's up over thanking the fans that appreciate what you do.

    Give more attention to the fans Steve! Don't give the haters attention!

    You have been doing something right all this time to inspire as many people as you have. Keep doing what you're doing!

  2. Why can't you put the other 2 bats in the rear?

    Might be better in the rear having the batts closer to the amps

    Believe it or not, I actually drag race my Escy. NHRA does not allow batteries of any type inside the vehicle unless they are in a sealed, vented box, or behind a sealed firewall. Also, I tow my REAL race car with the truck, so between the sub box and the tongue weight of the trailer, I'm trying to keep from putting more weight in the rear.

    Pic racing with the old 22" wheels on it....

    080209Bremerton11-1.jpg

    Hide the batteries in the sub box.... It's a sealed battery.

  3. CJ, you've Peaked my interest here.

    Is It unreasonable to think there's head unit voltage drop?

    AC voltage output X amplifier internal gain.

    Scenario 1: .35VAC x 10

    Scenario 2: 10VAC x .35

    Assuming amplifier internal gain is a constant, voltage drop at the headunit is going to change which scenario more?

    The RCA output voltage will not drop with B+ voltage dropping. The RCA outputs are fed from a mini-amplifier inside the headunit that has feedback. Think of it as regulated

    Thank you Tony. I appreciate the feedback.

    To expand on it, if possible, what makes the AC voltage output from the 'mini amplifier' in the head unit different from that of the AC voltage output of the amplifier in the back?

  4. Even if you could, the integrity of the baffle would be compromised. You could probably make 3 10s and a slot port work pretty well with 36" of area to work with. 2 12s would be idea for that kind of box. Only way I could see you getting away with 4 10s and a box that wide is to go 4th order, but the box is going to need to be a minimum

    Of 23" deep.

  5. The harbor freight meter isn't a quality meter. I can't explain why the subs aren't as loud as they were before, but I can tell you the meter isn't great. I worked at HF for 4 years. There's not a meter in that store that reads resistances like a quality meter does. If I was in your situation I'd start at the signal. Make sure all your Rcas are securely connected and have output. Double check all your grounds, wire, fusing, etc. Take a voltage reading at the front battery and at the terminals of the amp. Make sure the voltage is within .1 from front to back.

  6. Not a bassrace song and I haven't put it on audacity, but Mac miller smile back might work well for you. If you want to demo some range drake uptown might work for you as well. Waka Flocka o let's do it... My car peaks right around that range, 3 loud songs in my car. Try em out and let me know how they work for you. None of them are bassrace tracks.

    Edit: dubstep ...

  7. I got a viper 5701 about a year and a half ago and the alarm itself is alright... But the pager sucks. Both of the pagers I have are broken. So I'm looking into replacing the remote or upgrading to the 5901.

    While looking on ebay I found some pagers that look like they are a little higher quality than the originals... Anyone have any experience or advice about them?

    7251p.jpg

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-PYTHON-7251P-REPLACEMENT-CAR-ALARM-2-WAY-PAGER-REMOTE-872-VIPER-5701-3-3X-/320891729275?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ab6a3357b

    7351v.jpg

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/VIPER-7351V-REPLACEMENT-2-WAY-REMOTE-TRANSMITTER-FOR-5204-5301-5701-ALARM-SYSTEM-/261020639887?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cc60ae28f&vxp=mtr

    7251x.jpg

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/CLIFFORD-7251X-CAR-ALARM-2-WAY-REPLACEMENT-REMOTE-TRANSMITTER-FITS-VIPER-5701-LE-/380432590450?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58938ca672&vxp=mtr

    Anybody else having problems with the viper remotes on other models?

  8. I don't know if I missed a part of a build video or something, but wasn't there only one nitrous tank in the begining or was there two? :shrug:

    was one but my car kept feeling lop-sided, like it was pulling to the left. So i got another to match. I don't even use it too much but its nice to have it symmetrical in the trunk.

    Did you get the car aligned while sitting in it?

    • Like (+1 Rep) 1
  9. I really like where this is headed.

    Would be cool to see that 15 firing through the rear deck at the window too.... If its even an option.

    it wouldn't sound as good IMO. Forward, ported, isolated from the trunk FTW. I really wanted that BP to work though. :(

    I'm not talking about the 15 bein in in the trunk firing through the rear deck. I'm talking about the baffle of the box replacing the rear deck (or the hundreds of other ways you could go about it)... But essentially everything firing up, completely isolated from the trunk. Fiberglassed, vinyl or color matched to look whatever suits your taste - custom or factory.

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