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Pro7

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Posts posted by Pro7

  1. A clean clamped 1500 watts to a upgraded lvl4 (5 soft parts) after that your making extra heat. no upgrade 1000-1200 the single tinsel leads will probably be the fist thing to go if you start adding more power. recobe to a dual1 and run the quart amp at .5 ohm scope it clean and watch what that sub can really do. if your wired to 1ohm now your actual piwer is probably in the 700-800 watt range

    Sorry but I'm just sticking with what I have. I just found this situation funny so I posted it not really looking to change anything

  2. Well I had my local shop make a box for me this last week and they installed everything for me too. So I got my car back on Thursday night and when talking to the guy who installed it he said that my level 4 15" is going to want more than the 1500 watts that it is getting from my mb quart amp I have. He went on to say that he would guess that 3000 watts would be a good amount of power and I told him that this is my first real system so I didn't want to go too much over board and blow something from inexperience especially since the sub is rated at 1000 watts.

    When he heard me say that it is rated at 1000 watts he looked at me like 'no effin way, you don't know what you are talking about'

    It made my day seeing how impressive dc subs are. Thanks DC for making such an outstanding product!

    I'm from Sioux Falls SD and no one here has heard of DC so I will rep them to the best of my ability to try to get converts! (I'll try to get some pics up later maybe tomorrow of what I have)

  3. I need to do the big 3 and Im looking at getting this.. http://www.vminnovations.com/Product_11020/Streetwires-UFX007S-1-0-Gauge-Power-Ground-Cable-14-Ft-Pair-.html

    For the wires but I'm not sure if it will be long enough (for those that are lazy like me and dont want to follow the link it's (2) 7 foot sections of 1/0 streetwire.)

    It's the cheapest 1/0 I could find so that's why I was interested

    Edit: going into an 03 Chrysler Sebring

  4. Rule of thumb, double your cone area =3db

    Double your power =3db

    Also, a common chamber box ( no divider ) is proven louder.

    I have also read that one common chamber is louder (ram designs and 412cvx say it too) so maybe take out the divider and put in a wedge in the middle of the back wall to direct airflow or you could try one L port with both subs on one side (I'm not sure on what way meters better it seems like people do both)

    Although 2 subs on one side and a single L port on the other side might be considered more as a single chamber

  5. http://s1137.photobucket.com/albums/n508/MichaelHorst7/?action=view¤t=untitled.jpg

    This is the biggest box that I can fit without going to a local audio shop to make a box for me... How do you think this box would work with it getting 1500 watts from a MB Quart 1.1500Q. Any suggestions would really help but these are my max dimensions without going really creative

    and I dont know why the image wont work but its hyperlinked if that doesnt work let me know and ill just type it all out

  6. OP- you will need a larger box than the other guy used because you are going to use 2 15s not 2 12s

    With 2 15s I would guess something like 8 cubes total, Torres box calculator would be great for you! Any other questions are welcome for there are a plethora of knowledgeable people willing to help on smd

  7. Trunk light has been out since I bought it lol...only thing I could think of is the phone charger but I don't think it does that bad of a current draw to drain a battery

    Yeah the charger shouldn't cause that much drain. I leave mine in my car all the time too and it starts up fine and it been hovering around 0 degrees lately here in SD

    I would guess it's because of your battery is not a deep cycle battery and somehow it got drained too low the first time and it is now basically shit haha

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