Bored`N`Def
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Posts posted by Bored`N`Def
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worth trying to come between the seats, or should i look at porting through deck?
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I would assume porting through the deck would sound a bit better, but I would be interested in seeing a port firing through the space in the seats.
it seems less destructive to me to do it that way. make a snug fit beveled port that is even with the rear seat, or slightly recessed.
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i was thinking of running 4 SA 8v2 on 2000w rms, i know that part is fine. where i have a question is on the box. i have a 2006 mitsubishi galant and the rear seat does not fold down. there is a hole in the center for the arm rest, and i was thinking of running my port through there into the cabin. either that or porting out the rear deck. which would be a better option?
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Sounds like a bass-head dream
"Rather than bury or burn bodies after death, a Swedish company has come up with a chilling alternative; freezing them in liquid nitrogen, then using sound waves to smash the brittle remains into a powder."
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it may say in the specs somewhere, but i'm kinda blind and slightly ...
what ft^3 and tuning would be recommended for 1 of these bad little things?
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I agree to the rules and conditions above.
06 Mitsu Galant
DuDurty you have some nice interests
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ive seen a thread but lost it about door jambs and the same thing someone had said to get weather stripping and put it inside the stock weaterstripping to make it stiffer
could probably fit like 1/4" inside of mine, not sure how stiff they make that stuff. i'll have to check it out i guess
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don't want to hijack the thread, but i have a related-ish question:
so adding a layer of damp around the trunk seal in the top rear of my lid (by the window glass) to help it press against the factory weather seal will help with the vibration, but what about protection from water and leaks?
what about adding the thick 1 1/2" 3M weather stripping you can get at lowe's or home depot next to the existing seal?
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Bored`N`Def
DD-1
Lincoln, NE 68528
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in for mine, thanks for the coupon
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To all my brothers still deployed, Stay safe and return soon. Hoo-Rah!
thank you to those who served before me, and those that will serve after.
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looking for someone to build a box, very displeased with the 2 i have had made by local shops. pm me, or i'll take suggestions on who i should contact.
Thanks!
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Ya it does look a bit shifted, I guess these are the oldest speakers I have ever looked at lol.
when i was a kid my dad worked for a high end home audio store, and he always used to laugh about selling bose brand to people. in his opinion, bose used low quality drivers in well designed enclosures. i don't know if it's the truth, but it has always been something that has stuck with me.
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is there a way to link the Alpine PDX-M12 with a 2nd one?
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Neither SounDigital nor Stetsom offer an amp (that I can see) that are smaller than the ones I currently have (15" long), with the power that I need.
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Hey all,
Here's the deal. I need to power my 12" DC XL, and my components. Currently have Rockford T1500 and T600 doing the job, but they don't fit so well in my spare tire well. I would like an amp that can really push the XL, and do it in a nice compact package. Same goes for my components, need a 4ch that puts out 125 W/rms minimum, also in a small package. Have the electrical to back the amps.
Thanks for the advice.
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Thank you, very useful to me, as i needed new seat covers
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3.5k to 68528 please and thank you
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Hey, just need some advice for a new amp for my single 12" XL w/ dual 2ohm coils. have a 300 amp alt and dual run of 0ga from front to rear battery. currently have a t1500-1bdcp that produces about 1900w @ 1ohm, but it seems to want to puke on me at 90% volume.
Not gonna work.
in For Sale: Car audio related equipment only
Posted · Edited by pstone11
Nope - if you want to sell or advertise, read the rules. Don't try to back-door the system.