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Posts posted by Nikitaaa
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Great guy. Always willing to help and bullshitting all the time lol. Hit him up.
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There is no power restriction
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Oooo another honda just like mine. There is something about these cars that really makes them put up awesome numbers. This is the same class as me. Im only about 3db away from playing with this guy
HAHA "only"
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Thats a little short for a mint 3k. I sold my 2500 for that. Your best bet around these parts would be around $500+ sh
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The only swap was his amps....
So everything else such as subwoofer wiring is irrelevant (but not unimportant).
Lets try to narrow it down to amp ground, rcas, amp settings etc.
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Maybe look into one of the mainstream brands? Not sure what alpines mrx line is going for these days but you can always try that.
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Makes you wonder how much they want for it and how much a cheap paint job would cost.
Plasti-dip the to the rescue!!
Although depending on how deep the scratches are it might contour and still be slightly visible.
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I would loose it if someone did this shit to my car..
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Should have been so specific. Obviously you're not going to see exactly exactly 1 ohm on the dot every time.
I have to disagree. I have wired to .5 ohm and seen anywhere from 1.2-6 ohms reactive.
It will give you an idea of what you will get with impedance rise factored in.
And for the fact that he simply states they will not warranty the amp at .5 ohm. I don't get why a company would test at .5 ohm load and then not warranty if they are going to brag about results? Still great numbers and loved my 4500s.
No, the Dyno tests using purely resistive loads. It is NOT subject to any type of rise. If a test is done at 1 ohm, then that is what the amp is seeing for the entire duration of that test.
I thought it was nominal not reactive. Like nominal would mean that it is always .5 and a reactive load would change.
You also know, that the .5 load test, is reactive right? .Not nominal....Damn how did I miss that 15.42 Volts
Would you wire to like .2 ?
Could be wrong though.
Now that being said, the dynamic test is much easier on the amp and electrical than the certified or uncertified tests. I would be very surprised if that amp stayed on for a .5ohm certified test.
For example, as kyle said, 1 ohm dyno will be similar to wiring to .5 in your vehicle.
But the point I was trying to make was it will get you in the ballpark.
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It will give you an idea of what you will get with impedance rise factored in.
And for the fact that he simply states they will not warranty the amp at .5 ohm. I don't get why a company would test at .5 ohm load and then not warranty if they are going to brag about results? Still great numbers and loved my 4500s.
No, the Dyno tests using purely resistive loads. It is NOT subject to any type of rise. If a test is done at 1 ohm, then that is what the amp is seeing for the entire duration of that test.
You also know, that the .5 load test, is reactive right? .Not nominal....Damn how did I miss that 15.42 Volts
Would you wire to like .2 ?
I thought it was nominal not reactive. Like nominal would mean that it is always .5 and a reactive load would change.
Could be wrong though.
Now that being said, the dynamic test is much easier on the amp and electrical than the certified or uncertified tests. I would be very surprised if that amp stayed on for a .5ohm certified test.
For example, as kyle said, 1 ohm dyno will be similar to wiring to .5 in your vehicle.
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Why didn't you drop it to half ohm?
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How many runs do you use for said amperage? Out of curiosityHoly hell. 16 pages of beating a dead horse to come up with.... zero new information.
One thing I hadn't considered that Tony touched on (and that is annoying me now) is the markup. Yeah... aluminum is cheaper. And it very welll should be; becuase copper is trading ~ $3.25/lb right now while aluminum is more like $0.80/lb. That makes copper 4x as valuable yet CCA is only ~ 1/2 the price. Those bastards!!! CCA should be like, 50 cents a foot, damnit.
In my world... I use what's close or what's cheap. And that's usually welding cable. It's f'n wire. I could not give two shits. But then again... I don't try to pass 500A through a single 20ft run of 1/0.
I applaud the educational vids. They're sorely needed for some, redundant for some but uniteresting to most. Or is it disinteresting?
Wake me when you get to the 600 level courses.
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Man... the ratio of this must be enormous..
Also, you usually don't see ports on the right side of the vehicle.
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Awesome! jeff competes in IASCA so this was a sealed number, right?
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187db @30k hzUh-oh.
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Just popping into this here for a second..You have no idea what the fuck you're talking about. Please pm me instances of me bitching at noobs.
Your statement was not, I think CCA is inferior to OFC...your statement was, "how dare you argue with the man named Tony! Humble yourselves and accept his words" of course I paraphrased a bit there.
I've ran OFC and switched to CCA, so you can't even get that right. Who cares about knowing more than someone? Are you feeling insecure there? Because a level of intelligence has nothing to do with it. Maybe I'll say it slower for you because you're having trouble.
I ran OFC wiring triple mechman 270s charging a total of 9 D3100s, on music full tilt on three RF T4000s powering three 15" BTLs and scored a legal 56.7 with voltage at 14.3. Swapped to CCA, same score at the same frequency, same voltage. Only difference was the price. So why should I way an extra $500 for nothing? You say I should open my mind, have you opened yours? Have you swapped one from the other properly using both and seen a difference? If so, please share. But don't ever assume because we are debating something we are being disrespectful. And when in a debate with something like OFC vs CCA dkmt ever say, don't argue with tony just humble yourself. That shi cray
And where am I l pissing and moaning because something is on the chopping block? Lol, you have a very skewed perception of events and it tickles me.
Maybe you were not pulling enough amperage to stress the wire? If you were pushing the ofc to it's max draw (wire getting warm) then switched to cca, I don't see how the score would stay the same.
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And the fact that it's stable at such a low impedance is incredible!so basically.... a 5k at .5 is a 10k lol
That is the sign of a well built amplifier with lots of current capacity, if it can continue to double its power when you halve the impedance.
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There is a difference between putting up numbers and being reliable.
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I posted a video on another topic about a guy running all hifonics in a blazer. He had 24 hifonics 500 watt subs and 6 hifonics Brutus 2610 in a sealed enclosure. Doing a 158.1 with 12k in usaci so I wouldn't say Brutus amps can't put up high numbers.
Who said they couldn't?
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Hey hey, anyone can play low! Now cone control, that's a whole different story..
But.... But.......I can still play lower than you!!!quit u lil bitch hifonics rulz an u r not loud
thinkin u r all book smart n shit
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I was thinking about that earlier today too. But this failed by almost 1/3 rated. While the 3.5 was a little over a hundred watts.Didn't the DC 3.5 fail cert mode? Thought it did like 3379 st 14.35 volts?
Edit 3379
How much power could a zv3 15 take daily?
in Sundown Audio - GREAT Amps/Subs! GREAT Customer Service!
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Sure say you match rms of a sub with the rms of the amp. Impedance rise and all is going to eat away that power so at the end of the day you'll be seeing 1/4 of rms rating.
I enjoy when I can put CLAMPED rms to my subs.
Just my 2 cents.