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Nikitaaa

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Posts posted by Nikitaaa

  1. Sound waves have a length to them. There is a certain distance between the peaks of the wave, or the compression nodes if you prefer.

    This length can be found by dividing the speed of sound by the frequency.

    For example

    The speed of sound through air at sea level is approx. 1130 feet per second.

    Divided by 20hz equals 56ft for the length of a 20hz wave.

    Most cars bass is between 30hz and 60hz. So this means waves between 37ft and 18ft.

    All of which are too long to entirely fit inside a standard passenger car. So we use the half and quarter wave method.

    If your interior is between 9 and 4.5 feet long, then you have the potential to play these frequencies very effectively.

    Now, in fluid dynamics and the physics of air pressure, we know that it is much easier to compress and vacuum smaller amounts of air as compared to larger amounts of air.

    Therefore, it will be easier to create high SPL with smaller amounts of air mass.

    So smaller cars have the greater POTENTIAL to get louder, as long as you know how to build for it.

    And we run into the frequency conundrum, so if you want a small car to still play low frequencies effectively, there is a limit as to how small you should go.

    Very helpful, thanks for clearing this up.

  2. put simply, yes

    I've actually been quite confused about this as well. My wagon is pretty long and narrow.

    I've been told that the distance between the dash and port needs to be as short as possible but I've also heard that low frequencies need distance to build up making my wagon a prime vehicle.

    Can someone shine some light on this for me?

  3. its been said why your box is peaky and you could ether change the port or add power to get rid of it

    the choice is yours!

    Yeah, you're right!

    Would you recommend reducing port area? Will it harm the output if I dropped it down to about 13 per?

  4. Dimensions of my box are; 17.25h, 41w, and 24d. Port is 15.75h, 6w, and 20.75L. Double baffle with like .2 of bracing and .28 sub displacement..

    If anybody could do something with winisd to show my why my box is peaky it would be great!

  5. I would try building a 2:1 4th and take down my back seats if I knew the fs and qts of the sub.. But psi told me theat they couldn't tell me..

    Are you all saying I should build a bigger box?

    The only problem with that is I dont have any more room in my hatch then the box I currently have(with back seats up)

  6. Okay boys and girls, I have a couple questions.

    First, my box for my single 18 is around 6^3 tuned to 36.5 with 15.5 of port per 1^3.

    My box is REALLY peaky. Like.. Beyond peaky.

    Lows pretty much are non existent.

    1) will inverting my sub flatten out the response a bit and help it play a bit lower?

    2) if I add about .75 peice of mdf to the side of the port, it would drop my port area to about 13 and tuning to about 34ish. Is this worth makin my box look weird? Will it help flatten the response?

    Anyways, this box is like 2db louder at 42hz than 40hz. It's that bad.

  7. Running mine at .7 ohm, gets a little warm but nowhere near hot. I also have the voltage to support it, though. Honestly I think that you burned it up with stock electrical.

    Do you have a voltage meter?

    Also, did you do big 3 at least?

  8. if you get an amp... that alternator is only puttin out 85-95 amps MAX...... at least half of that is used to run the car..... voltage drop happens really easy on our subarus.... im running a sony xplod 1000w amp that doesnt put out much in the way of rms wattage and i had voltage drop down to close to 10 volts. just something to think about.....

    i ended up with 3 batteries all together with 4 gauge for the amps and the big 3 as well as all the grounds in the engine compartment sanded down to bare metal and re-attached because subaru likes to paint the car before attaching the grounds so all are very poor grounds. i can easily run a higher wattage amp now as i have no voltage drop what so ever. also if its a wagon you will hate the roof rattle.....its horrible. these cars can get loud on not alot of power also ( well the wagons can)

    Then you sir were doing something very wrong.

    I had 1700 rated watts on my stock alt before I bought my singer (Subaru outback 2003 2.5l) and dropped to 13v at idle, 13.9 moving. You must have had a bad ground or a loose connection because our cars actually have pretty solid voltage with the big 3 upgraded.

    Anyways, OP: look for an amp that has just about the rms rating of your sub or a little more. The reason I say this is because I'm going to take a shot in the dark and assume you do not own a DD-1 or O-scope to tune your amp, making it very simple to clip your equipment. When you get into the clipping realm, then add overpowering to the mix, you are lucky not to blow equipment.

    Look for something reputable in the 250-500 watt rms range and you should be golden on that ivx, I wouldn't go any higher power wise without knowing its clean power.

  9. I know this doesn't have anything to do with it but I would crank that lpf down a bit. Shoot for half an octave or so. No reason to tune so low when your cutting out the lower frequencies like that; but thats just me.

    I assume this would increase my output?

    It depends on how accurately you have your ssf set. If you have it set above a certain frequency then turn it down, output should be much greater at that frequency.

  10. I know this doesn't have anything to do with it but I would crank that ssf down a bit. Shoot for half an octave or so. No reason to tune so low when your cutting out the lower frequencies like that; but thats just me.

  11. Yeah, I'm sure, trust me, I'm not a complete idiot. All I asked for was what material is stronger than MDF, and got my answer. Don't sit here and criticize why my box is flexing, I know why, and I'd rather just learn on my own. Got my answer, that's all I need. Kthanks.

    Sigh... These people are trying to help you. They know what the fuck they're talking about. If it flexes with that much power, it's not built right. They're trying to prevent you from making the same mistake(s).

    Rather than "learning on your own," why don't you take their advice, try it, and if it works, consider yourself learn'd.

    This is what he always does. Asks a question because he fucks something up or doesnt understand, and turns any response in to an attack. Bottom line is, MDF is a strong enough wood. Either its built horribly, thickness is lacking, or design is flawed. Getting stronger material WILL NOT solve the issue if the issue in the build or design. This is not an attack, but truth. Fuck, you have issues listening when asking a question.

    OP when you decide to stop throwing your money away on faulty boxes and get over your own defensiveness you will listen to this guy, he knows much more than you or me combined. Do it right the first time and save yourself the headache.

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