Wolf4Life
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I've gor two kicker L7 15" on an ap3000. For the price, that amp is amazing! The subs are sealed in about 2 cubes each. I am over powering them cuz they're getting 1500 watts but theres no distortion and the boxes are small. Gonna shrink them this weekend down to about 1.5-1.7 though anyway just to change it up. I did sealed just so i could get them installed easier. Soon gonna sell them though and get some much better subs. Like Fi BL's. Kenwood headunit running the door speakers. Was gonna put an amp on the speakers but didnt need to when i put that headunit in. The speakers are Infinity coax's 5x7 in the back, 5.25 in the front
Nice, I had an L7 was nice but missed my trunk the box was 5.5cf ported around 35 Hz and took my whole tunk. I like the big stuff but only in trucks where there is the air spaced need for them, my L7 was ok in the car but had no air space in my blazer is was stupid. The biggest I will go in a car depending on trunk size it 12" but noramly 10"s so that have the space they need to work and the pressure won't push back on the cone.
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I'm in Midwest City
Come to OKC much?
Not to often maybe like 1 or so a month to pick up a friend, but I drive through all the time being I drive anywhere in OK for my job like 60-400mi a day. So I have to have a good stereo that is a never ending project.
What're you running?
Nothing huge right now SPL is fun but I'm more into SQ and being able to get loud if wanted.
I have a JVC HU w/Bluetooth
Stock speakers for now
A Clarion DPX11500 1500w amp I need an alt. upgrade and and better batt.
2" JL Audio W7 8" in a 2.5 cu ft box that is ported not sure at what it had 2 tens and was modded for 8s.
Sounds good and it louder the the 2 12" alpine type-rs I had before.
When I can save up I want to do a full Kicker system have had good luck with Kicker.
I want to get 2 10" CVX have L7s good for SPL but not so much SQ.
1500w amp
4 6 1/2 comp.
4ch amp at 60-120w rms.
I have had quite a few builds I loved my DD 2512 in a 4th order banpass, lost it when sold my last car.
Had a DD 9515 loved the lows but took to much space, like big subs but not for a car.
Thats pretty much it so far.
How about yourself?
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I'm in Midwest City
Come to OKC much?
Not to often maybe like 1 or so a month to pick up a friend, but I drive through all the time being I drive anywhere in OK for my job like 60-400mi a day. So I have to have a good stereo that is a never ending project.
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Here are the videos the 1st is redoing my amp gain with the DD-1 40Hz at -10db.
The 2nd is the testing to see how it sounds.
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its a funny thing , because alot of people really think that it should be loud as soon as they turn it up, i laugh when people say i only got it on 20 out of 40 and its so loud, not realizing the damage their doing to their equipment,
Yea I used to do that all the time but couldn't enjoy the music. I like SPL but am more into SQ and being able to get loud if wanted. I don't to much though being I drive anywhere from 50 upto 400mi a day. I like it balanced more then just loud.
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^that
ur amp cant get 1000hz because ur amp is cutting it off, starting at "250" as you stated
u should always be setting the gain with headunit at 48. typically, it wont sound "loud" to you until volume 30+, that is normal because the bulk of rca voltage is created closer to 48 for your deck
Yea I didn't think about that, I am not really new to stereo stuff I have done almost every car I have owned, but I am new to the o-scope and now the DD-1 I used to think the higher the gain the louder but live and learn. Thnaks for the info.
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Use -10db track 40hz for your bass amp.
You cant use 1k hz track on a sub amp. No need to.
So, deck at wherever it distorts
Play 40hz -10db track
Adjust "gain" untill distortion light is on solid.
Ok you win user error I will post some vids shortly, but I need to read more and not assume things
, I just figured to keep everything at 0 for best SQ I see this isn't always the case. If you don't mind me asking what is the differance between 0db and a -db or if there is a post already I would be happy to read. Thanks again now I feel stupid for trying so much and what now when it was a easy error. -
Use -10db track 40hz for your bass amp.
You cant use 1k hz track on a sub amp. No need to.
So, deck at wherever it distorts
Play 40hz -10db track
Adjust "gain" untill distortion light is on solid.
Thanks for the input and I understand that part I have not tryed a -db track so I will try that also. What I don't get is why I can't get close to the same readings like maybe a differance or 5 between checking off the HU and the Amp there a diferance of like 10 or more. If needed I can try a video to show what I mean and I may try a line driver to boost the voltage and see if it helps. I know the DD-1 works this is just driving me nuts.
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So I love the DD-1 so far and per my previous post I bought a new HU and set on flat the DD-1 worked on 40Hz and 1kHz fine distorting at 48-50 on the low lvl off the HU. When checking from the amp only the 40Hz works not the 1kHz. Setting gain min., infrasonic at 10, and x-over at 250 I can only get to 30 or 40 depending on the voltage input switch at 40Hz and the bass is like barley there when setting with the TPI 440 the HU from what I can see is right at 48-50 and then amp is set at 0.6-2V and gain about 1/3 before clipping and sounds great. So my question is am I doing something wrong or is my amp bad causing the distortion. I am going to try it in my other car on a 4ch and see what happens will post tomorrow.
The only thing I can come up with is that I know I need a bigger alt and or batts. to support the amp, and am wondering if the DD-1 is able to put a load on the amp like a sub would and since the amps/current isn't there is causing the distortion?
What do you mean you can only get to 30-40?
Depending on where the input voltage switch is set on the amp I can only get the volume to either 30 or 40 before the distortion light comes on.
If I go directly off the HU I can get 48 of 50. So that is why I tryed my other HU/Amp and it works fine. So I'm just comfused and trying to figure out why I can't get it set w/o using an o-scope, unless the HU is bad. I may try a line driver and see what happens from there, since I can hook it to my other HU w/4v preouts and run the rca from one car to the other and the amp seems fine and clips 45 of 50.
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So I love the DD-1 so far and per my previous post I bought a new HU and set on flat the DD-1 worked on 40Hz and 1kHz fine distorting at 48-50 on the low lvl off the HU. When checking from the amp only the 40Hz works not the 1kHz. Setting gain min., infrasonic at 10, and x-over at 250 I can only get to 30 or 40 depending on the voltage input switch at 40Hz and the bass is like barley there when setting with the TPI 440 the HU from what I can see is right at 48-50 and then amp is set at 0.6-2V and gain about 1/3 before clipping and sounds great. So my question is am I doing something wrong or is my amp bad causing the distortion. I am going to try it in my other car on a 4ch and see what happens will post tomorrow.
The only thing I can come up with is that I know I need a bigger alt and or batts. to support the amp, and am wondering if the DD-1 is able to put a load on the amp like a sub would and since the amps/current isn't there is causing the distortion?
So here is a video I made trying the DD-1 on my JBL GTO504 amp and it was fine, so now I am wondering what my issue is with my other HU/Amp.
I will try to get some pics up since I can't really do a video being the speakers and hooked to the HU and it would be to loud.
Sorry about the crapy vid never used my phone before.
Ok well after more testing I have to say its the HU and the DD-1 dons't like low preout voltage the one with the 4ch JBL amp is a JVC w/4v preouts.
Everything tested fine sounds great. My other HU is a JVC w/2.5v preouts I can get the lights to come on but not till like 45-50 on the vol, but when going through the amp they comeon like 10 and distortion at like 30 or 40 depending on the voltage switch on the amp. Which isnt right it the HU can go to 48. So when setting the amp it either has no bass or way to much at a low volume by the DD-1. If I use the o-scope till it clips and then back it off its balanced and dosn't get loud till 30+. So I just don't know what to thing now. The last thing I did was run a rca from the JVC w/4v pre outs to my other car to the amp and it went to 48-50 and on 40Hz 45-50 which I can belive so I know my amp is ok, this is why I think the DD-1 dosn't like low preouts so I will get a line driver and try again if not I guess it the HU. I never figured you could get so much in to figuring something out.
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So I love the DD-1 so far and per my previous post I bought a new HU and set on flat the DD-1 worked on 40Hz and 1kHz fine distorting at 48-50 on the low lvl off the HU. When checking from the amp only the 40Hz works not the 1kHz. Setting gain min., infrasonic at 10, and x-over at 250 I can only get to 30 or 40 depending on the voltage input switch at 40Hz and the bass is like barley there when setting with the TPI 440 the HU from what I can see is right at 48-50 and then amp is set at 0.6-2V and gain about 1/3 before clipping and sounds great. So my question is am I doing something wrong or is my amp bad causing the distortion. I am going to try it in my other car on a 4ch and see what happens will post tomorrow.
The only thing I can come up with is that I know I need a bigger alt and or batts. to support the amp, and am wondering if the DD-1 is able to put a load on the amp like a sub would and since the amps/current isn't there is causing the distortion?
So here is a video I made trying the DD-1 on my JBL GTO504 amp and it was fine, so now I am wondering what my issue is with my other HU/Amp.
I will try to get some pics up since I can't really do a video being the speakers and hooked to the HU and it would be to loud.
Sorry about the crapy vid never used my phone before.
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Well love the DD-1 so far just sad now that I know I need to get a head unit. I hooked the DD-1 up to the head unit first at 40Hz and about lvl 3 on the volume the distortion light came and no signal light. So I tried a -db no go either so I tried 1kHz worked fine. So then I tried from the amp same results 40Hz bad 1kHz ok up to lvl 28 of 35 not the best but probably cause I have a factory head unit with a cheap Wal-Mart high to low converter. So it is either converter or the head unit probably the converter but I need a new head unit anyways. I tried on my other car on a JVC head unit and worked great both 40Hz-1kHz where 48 of 50. Looking forward to redoing my car as time/money permits and seeing what good sound really is since I thought my crap that I now know is bad sounded great. I know now why I never could set it with the TPI-440 and the shine-wave was always crazy. Thanks again Steve, Tony, and Juan for a great product, looking forward to the CC-1 and if not too pricey the AD-1 to play with.
Those line level converters are really starting to show their ugly heads with the DD-1. Some of them distort the low frequencies pretty bad. Someone needs to invent a proper one. Hmm
Ok so I got a new HU and I know you get what you pay for
, but now the 1kHz will not light even though the amp, I have tryed the -tones also and just to see what happens I max out the gains still nothing. The 40Hz works fine it is the HU is just too cheap? I say this because the amp has the imput voltage switch 2-6v 3 places low being 0.2V-0.6V middle 0.6-2V and 2V-8V being high. The HU puts out or says 2.5v so I put on 2v the light comes on 30-50 at 40Hz. I think that is bad, now if I use the 0.6-2V I get 40-50 not bad but not good, if I use 0.2V-0.6V I get 48-50 great but no bass just trebble. Ok so I said all that to get to this I know its prob the HU just want some opinions. I can use my TPI-440 starting from the lowest 0.2V-0.6V upping gain, then 0.6-2V, then 2V-8V around halfway before shine wave squares off so I know there power to be made. I just want to know if its the HU is that bad or if I am not doing something with the DD-1. Also if Steve or someone would like to make a video of how to properly set gains on a amp that has the voltage switch for the DD-1 and maybe o-scope as well that would be nice. Also I can hear the 1kHz change in tone when it distorts/clips but no lightOk I am now starting to think the DD-1 is to awsome and if the light don't come on or they stay on there is a good chance your HU or something in the line may not be bad but isn't good either. After seeing this with the o-scope I am going to say the HU is
I kinda liked it. If I didn't have the o-scope to confirm I don't know that I would of fully trusted the DD-1 acting strange but I now know if the DD-1 is acting up its because something is wrong just need to find where. 1st is at 14 vol 2nd at 40 vol.The HU is like putting out just distorted crap this was off the low lvl from the HU not the amp, so the amp is out of question now.
Moved to new topic since this was about getting the DD-1 don't want to get too off topic..
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So I love the DD-1 so far and per my previous post I bought a new HU and set on flat the DD-1 worked on 40Hz and 1kHz fine distorting at 48-50 on the low lvl off the HU. When checking from the amp only the 40Hz works not the 1kHz. Setting gain min., infrasonic at 10, and x-over at 250 I can only get to 30 or 40 depending on the voltage input switch at 40Hz and the bass is like barley there when setting with the TPI 440 the HU from what I can see is right at 48-50 and then amp is set at 0.6-2V and gain about 1/3 before clipping and sounds great. So my question is am I doing something wrong or is my amp bad causing the distortion. I am going to try it in my other car on a 4ch and see what happens will post tomorrow.
The only thing I can come up with is that I know I need a bigger alt and or batts. to support the amp, and am wondering if the DD-1 is able to put a load on the amp like a sub would and since the amps/current isn't there is causing the distortion?
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Well love the DD-1 so far just sad now that I know I need to get a head unit. I hooked the DD-1 up to the head unit first at 40Hz and about lvl 3 on the volume the distortion light came and no signal light. So I tried a -db no go either so I tried 1kHz worked fine. So then I tried from the amp same results 40Hz bad 1kHz ok up to lvl 28 of 35 not the best but probably cause I have a factory head unit with a cheap Wal-Mart high to low converter. So it is either converter or the head unit probably the converter but I need a new head unit anyways. I tried on my other car on a JVC head unit and worked great both 40Hz-1kHz where 48 of 50. Looking forward to redoing my car as time/money permits and seeing what good sound really is since I thought my crap that I now know is bad sounded great. I know now why I never could set it with the TPI-440 and the shine-wave was always crazy. Thanks again Steve, Tony, and Juan for a great product, looking forward to the CC-1 and if not too pricey the AD-1 to play with.
Those line level converters are really starting to show their ugly heads with the DD-1. Some of them distort the low frequencies pretty bad. Someone needs to invent a proper one. Hmm
Ok so I got a new HU and I know you get what you pay for
, but now the 1kHz will not light even though the amp, I have tryed the -tones also and just to see what happens I max out the gains still nothing. The 40Hz works fine it is the HU is just too cheap? I say this because the amp has the imput voltage switch 2-6v 3 places low being 0.2V-0.6V middle 0.6-2V and 2V-8V being high. The HU puts out or says 2.5v so I put on 2v the light comes on 30-50 at 40Hz. I think that is bad, now if I use the 0.6-2V I get 40-50 not bad but not good, if I use 0.2V-0.6V I get 48-50 great but no bass just trebble. Ok so I said all that to get to this I know its prob the HU just want some opinions. I can use my TPI-440 starting from the lowest 0.2V-0.6V upping gain, then 0.6-2V, then 2V-8V around halfway before shine wave squares off so I know there power to be made. I just want to know if its the HU is that bad or if I am not doing something with the DD-1. Also if Steve or someone would like to make a video of how to properly set gains on a amp that has the voltage switch for the DD-1 and maybe o-scope as well that would be nice. Also I can hear the 1kHz change in tone when it distorts/clips but no lightOk I am now starting to think the DD-1 is to awsome and if the light don't come on or they stay on there is a good chance your HU or something in the line may not be bad but isn't good either. After seeing this with the o-scope I am going to say the HU is
I kinda liked it. If I didn't have the o-scope to confirm I don't know that I would of fully trusted the DD-1 acting strange but I now know if the DD-1 is acting up its because something is wrong just need to find where. 1st is at 14 vol 2nd at 40 vol.The HU is like putting out just distorted crap this was off the low lvl from the HU not the amp, so the amp is out of question now.
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Well love the DD-1 so far just sad now that I know I need to get a head unit. I hooked the DD-1 up to the head unit first at 40Hz and about lvl 3 on the volume the distortion light came and no signal light. So I tried a -db no go either so I tried 1kHz worked fine. So then I tried from the amp same results 40Hz bad 1kHz ok up to lvl 28 of 35 not the best but probably cause I have a factory head unit with a cheap Wal-Mart high to low converter. So it is either converter or the head unit probably the converter but I need a new head unit anyways. I tried on my other car on a JVC head unit and worked great both 40Hz-1kHz where 48 of 50. Looking forward to redoing my car as time/money permits and seeing what good sound really is since I thought my crap that I now know is bad sounded great. I know now why I never could set it with the TPI-440 and the shine-wave was always crazy. Thanks again Steve, Tony, and Juan for a great product, looking forward to the CC-1 and if not too pricey the AD-1 to play with.
Those line level converters are really starting to show their ugly heads with the DD-1. Some of them distort the low frequencies pretty bad. Someone needs to invent a proper one. Hmm
Ok so I got a new HU and I know you get what you pay for
, but now the 1kHz will not light even though the amp, I have tryed the -tones also and just to see what happens I max out the gains still nothing. The 40Hz works fine it is the HU is just too cheap? I say this because the amp has the imput voltage switch 2-6v 3 places low being 0.2V-0.6V middle 0.6-2V and 2V-8V being high. The HU puts out or says 2.5v so I put on 2v the light comes on 30-50 at 40Hz. I think that is bad, now if I use the 0.6-2V I get 40-50 not bad but not good, if I use 0.2V-0.6V I get 48-50 great but no bass just trebble. Ok so I said all that to get to this I know its prob the HU just want some opinions. I can use my TPI-440 starting from the lowest 0.2V-0.6V upping gain, then 0.6-2V, then 2V-8V around halfway before shine wave squares off so I know there power to be made. I just want to know if its the HU is that bad or if I am not doing something with the DD-1. Also if Steve or someone would like to make a video of how to properly set gains on a amp that has the voltage switch for the DD-1 and maybe o-scope as well that would be nice. Also I can hear the 1kHz change in tone when it distorts/clips but no light -
Well love the DD-1 so far just sad now that I know I need to get a head unit. I hooked the DD-1 up to the head unit first at 40Hz and about lvl 3 on the volume the distortion light came and no signal light. So I tried a -db no go either so I tried 1kHz worked fine. So then I tried from the amp same results 40Hz bad 1kHz ok up to lvl 28 of 35 not the best but probably cause I have a factory head unit with a cheap Wal-Mart high to low converter. So it is either converter or the head unit probably the converter but I need a new head unit anyways. I tried on my other car on a JVC head unit and worked great both 40Hz-1kHz where 48 of 50. Looking forward to redoing my car as time/money permits and seeing what good sound really is since I thought my crap that I now know is bad sounded great. I know now why I never could set it with the TPI-440 and the shine-wave was always crazy. Thanks again Steve, Tony, and Juan for a great product, looking forward to the CC-1 and if not too pricey the AD-1 to play with.
Those line level converters are really starting to show their ugly heads with the DD-1. Some of them distort the low frequencies pretty bad. Someone needs to invent a proper one. Hmm
Like you guys for all of us broke people who can't afford much.
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did you set the all the settings on the radio to 0...?
bass sublevel, and all that good stuff?
Yea I had everything to 0 on the HU when I tryed directly from the RCAs off the converter, and from the amp the infrasonic was 10 the lowest I could go, and the x-over what like 250 the higest I could go.
The 1kHz was ok just the 40Hz the distort light came on on lvl 3 and the signal light never came on.
Thats why I tryed it in my other car on my JVC HU to be sure and on both 1kHz-40Hz it came on at 48-50 so I know its the converter or the stock HU. But thanks for the input.
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NEW PRODUCT SNEAK PEAK! SMD AD-1 Amp Dyno
Sorry SQMonte I should of replyed but just figering out this forum stuff.
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Well love the DD-1 so far just sad now that I know I need to get a head unit. I hooked the DD-1 up to the head unit first at 40Hz and about lvl 3 on the volume the distortion light came and no signal light. So I tried a -db no go either so I tried 1kHz worked fine. So then I tried from the amp same results 40Hz bad 1kHz ok up to lvl 28 of 35 not the best but probably cause I have a factory head unit with a cheap Wal-Mart high to low converter. So it is either converter or the head unit probably the converter but I need a new head unit anyways. I tried on my other car on a JVC head unit and worked great both 40Hz-1kHz where 48 of 50. Looking forward to redoing my car as time/money permits and seeing what good sound really is since I thought my crap that I now know is bad sounded great. I know now why I never could set it with the TPI-440 and the shine-wave was always crazy. Thanks again Steve, Tony, and Juan for a great product, looking forward to the CC-1 and if not too pricey the AD-1 to play with.
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I just recived my SMD DD-1 and I can say I'm totally stoked and can't wait to test it on my Clarion DPX11500 and my JBL 150.4.
Will do an update on how it turns out I am curious to see what my two JL W7 8" can really do, they alredy out due two 12" type-rs I used to have SPL wise and the SQ kills the type-rs.
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I need their address as well in Sacramento, CA. Curious how this works, if you turn up bass boost would that not change the output from receiver to the amp? I use a eq as deck had adjustments in areas where now I can adjust where the tones are adjusted, Soundstream EQ adjustments them selves are adjustable within each range. Not so worried about the highs, but the bass adjustment. I guess on a deck you would check the deck's amp's outputs, but I do not use the receiver's speaker outputs. Guess this still allows some kind of idea of when the deck amp's clips just was not sure if RCA would were the same. Old school to long so trying to update my info equipment since my son is into stereos now. No offense think its great someone is doing something for the car stereo field on good tools. Maybe do like I use to do when manually adjusting gains and turn up bass before adjusting amps. Tried multi meter, but readings seem to fluctuate. Only way to learn for me is to ask.
Mdwerner6942, yes adjusting the bass can have an effict on where it clips that is why you put everything to 0 or flat to get the cleanist signal possable. Depending on your head unit it may or may not clip the only to tell is like you said to use either an o-scope or the dd-1, and after finding where the head unit clips back it off a little then add bass or whatever untill it clips then back it off and that would be as high and one would want to go safely. Really if you want more bass and everything is set right and clean the only thing to do would be to get a bigger amp (more power)is more bass. Hope that helps I know this is kinda old now but I just joined and am looking around.
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I'm in Midwest City
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Hey Steve just wanted to say thanks to you and all the guys to for making a killer product. Ordered on Friday can't wait to get it and try it, I have a TPI-440 also but this will make things a lot easer and distortion free.
, I just figured to keep everything at 0 for best SQ I see this isn't always the case. If you don't mind me asking what is the differance between 0db and a -db or if there is a post already I would be happy to read. Thanks again now I feel stupid for trying so much and what now when it was a easy error.
, but now the 1kHz will not light even though the amp, I have tryed the -tones also and just to see what happens I max out the gains still nothing. The 40Hz works fine it is the HU is just too cheap? I say this because the amp has the imput voltage switch 2-6v 3 places low being 0.2V-0.6V middle 0.6-2V and 2V-8V being high. The HU puts out or says 2.5v so I put on 2v the light comes on 30-50 at 40Hz. I think that is bad, now if I use the 0.6-2V I get 40-50 not bad but not good, if I use 0.2V-0.6V I get 48-50 great but no bass just trebble. Ok so I said all that to get to this I know its prob the HU just want some opinions. I can use my TPI-440 starting from the lowest 0.2V-0.6V upping gain, then 0.6-2V, then 2V-8V around halfway before shine wave squares off so I know there power to be made. I just want to know if its the HU is that bad or if I am not doing something with the DD-1. Also if Steve or someone would like to make a video of how to properly set gains on a amp that has the voltage switch for the DD-1 and maybe o-scope as well that would be nice. Also I can hear the 1kHz change in tone when it distorts/clips but no light
I kinda liked it. If I didn't have the o-scope to confirm I don't know that I would of fully trusted the DD-1 acting strange but I now know if the DD-1 is acting up its because something is wrong just need to find where. 1st is at 14 vol 2nd at 40 vol.
Amp Test Tuesday - CT Sounds AT1400.1d - Guess the # and win it! VIDEO RESULTS PAGE 10
in Amp Test Tuesday - Results from the SMD AD-1 Amp Dyno
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