Posts posted by Vito Basser
Not many motors about running MT's any more, they wipe the floor with most newer subs today IMO
Every video I see of yours, you seem to be cracking open a new T2500
That would be cheap for a Sundown if it was in the UK
I FUCKING WANTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Do you know what size alternator is on it now?
Headunit; anything Alpine with 4v preouts is a no brainer for me personally, Pioneer make some sweet units too...
Batteries; a favourite in the scene is the XS Power D3100, these are tried and tested
Wiring kit; avoid el-cheapo '10,000w' kits, stuff like Knukonceptz is cheap, very good and well worth the money.
Box; download Torres Box Calculator, this will let you play about with some box & port sizes.
Oh FYI, headunits only put out 18wrms at the most, if you don't buy a little 50-100w p/c amp, you will drown out your front speakers and have to budget it in a later date - trust me. Do it right first time SnowDrifter has given you some solid advice.
Something else, nobody has noticed sound proofing! To get the most from your mids & highs do the doors, back of the cab etc. You WILL get pissed at the sound of panels and stuff flexin like a biatch.
Check out some build logs so you can write a definitive list...
Yeah, you know your gunna CLIMAX when it gets dropped off!
Forgot to add.
This method is by no means accurate as there are too many variables to take into account like; box rise, voltage, temperature etc etc
So use with caution.
Make sure he does NOT use the EQ within the sub range or turn on loud/loudness/MX or anything else that gives nasty peaks as this will most likely result in a melted VC.
What headunit is he using?
What car and boot dimensions is there?
What head unit will he be using?
It'll work. You can DMM it to a general wattage output. Always good to have head room. Just be easy on the gain.
Can you tell me how to use a DMM to set the wattage output?
Turn the gain down on the amp, raise the LPF, disconnect the sub wires.
Set the head unit EQ to flat, turn up to the user decided max volume.
Take a DMM and set to VAC.
Put the red lead in the +ve speaker terminal and the black in the -ve terminal
Play a test tone, 40hz will do fine.
Slowly increase the gain until you hit the magic number; personally I'd choose 60v AC or at least to start with, but that's up to you.
Turn the track down!
Hook up speaker/woofer
Periodically check the temp of the dust cap whilst testing (your hand will do)
repeat process until you and SA15 happy
............he said its time to have a little fun with those who dont think the tahoe is loud.
The only time I heard that (no pun ) was these little fairy's on YT who chat shit about everyone. Doesn't it already do a 156 or something? What he could do is, recone all subs to dual 1.4ohm and add another 8 T2500 (which would be MENTAL) or, put a T4k on each coil (also MENTAL). Who knows what goes on in that enclosure/skull of his!
The no replacement for displacement applies to engines! (BMW owners favourite saying)
On the other hand, subwoofers have optimal box sizes. Too big and you get a one note wonder.
Work around the manufacturers recommended enclosure size.
About the AA SMD 15's - do a tunnel with 3 top 3 bottom and 1 each side.
T2500's (guts out)
MADE OF PLEXI so you can see everything inside out. Now that would be one sweet ass, muda fugga!
Outside, wrap it. Either simple with the SMD sig or slammed with brands
Oh yeah, since you'll have a 15 left, I'll take it off your hands
WTF is SQ anyway!? As in, says who?
If it sounds good, it's SQ...
You mean one of these 'bad boys' ?
Note the 80A fuse! You might get 800w rms out of it.
If your going to get some decent subs, at least give them some decent power!
Get a second hand Orion 2500d, Orion HCCA D5000, SPL Dynamics, Ground Zero etc...
You should be able to pick one of these up for £200-£300 and they will all make real power.
On top of this your going to need some 0awg power cable, if you haven't already.
The head unit you have is perfect (I have one too )
If your going to be getting the dual 2ohm versions you can wire them to 4ohm each then wire them parallel to create a 1ohm load.
Get a 2-2.5k rms mono block. The Sundown SAZ2500D would be a good choice...
That said, what's your budget?
Do you have any electrical upgrades?
Just helping someone decide on a small setup with an SA8.
What is the max unclipped amount of power you have had these running at daily?
Either V1 or V2
We have various amplifiers available for this setup, just looking for the boundary as I know Sundown rate their subs conservatively.
LOL @ .2Ohm! Your my new fucking hero!!!
Thanks for the feedback guy's; I think I'll most likely run it @ 1.4Ohm, was just having a poke in the dark
I do have very good electrical though (couple HO's & 8 D3100's) and a DD1 for dialling it/them in.
2 won't break a sweat @ 1.4Ohm strapped though, will they?
I am looking at running an RE MT dual 0.7Ohm in parallel on my 2500d, showing the amp .35Ohm for a daily setup. I was hoping that with a touch of box rise I won't be too far off 1Ohm.
Does anybody else run theirs this low?
Does it go into grill mode?
I don't wanna cook the damn thing, but I can't afford another 1 just yet to run 1 per coil. (or strapped @ 1.4Ohm)
Just get a 100ah+ battery for the boot for now.
Your alternator will provide most of the power to the amp (obviously engine running).
Just keep an eye on the voltage and temp (by hand) and you'll be fine.
Common sense = win
Is there no way of getting one of these to the UK?
"Clamping" method VS Amp Dyno
in D'Amore Engineering - High Quality Car Audio Installation Tools & Accessories
How many shops actually clamp amps that they sell? I think these would be more suited to people like; manufacturers & hardcore competitors/people like Meade, Jacob, Rusty and the like. Unless of course, as said, shops buy these and charge a small fee for clamping and give people a certificate. I'd get all mine done in a heartbeat, even the ones I don't use...
Maybe if the CEA rating people used one of these and stopped people calling their amplifiers for example: 'D5000' etc when they are clearly trying to insinuate that their amplifiers push 5000w to an unsuspecting buyer, that and stopped them quoting 'MAX Power' ratings that don't mean dick.
Well done anyway.
Tony: do you think you'll ever build a 'Made in the USA' amplifier? Just curious, that's all