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tacomabanga1986

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Posts posted by tacomabanga1986

  1. im thinking if you glue the thermocuple to the radiator you could possibly sense engine temp with the temp guage, i would also love for tony to make some custom guage like fuel and what knot, man if u did make tacomitors i think they would fly off the shelfs to car guys,

    i love the look of analog meters but with the accuracy of digital meters, some sweet stuff ya'll have come up with, great work, and they look sick as hell

    now if a vu din mount with a separate circuit board so u could maby put a temp and voltage guage in the middle of the 2 would be sick as hell looking, dunnot how much trouble it would be tho,

  2. no, ive had that same amp, great amp, mitek who makes mtx audio also makes coustic, that amp needs atleast 4guage and try not to run it lower than 2ohm stereo, they tend to get hot

    the 3 30amp fuses just helps your circuit board from burning up due to over powering your amp and what knot

    i had a mtx 500d that i wired to i think .5ohm or maby lower than that n i blew one of the "internal" fuses, replaced it and wala

    for that amp ied try to run a inline fuse of atleast 80amps if u got it wired to 2ohm stereo, cause when i had mine it kept blowing my 60amp inline fuse due to amp trying to put out more power than its getting

    coustic makes some good amps, but why u have 3 30amp fuses is due to the requirements of the amp, i guess u could say if u was to clip it enough to get it to put out more than rated power into a 12v signal to subs it will blow a fuse instead of amp, and also help with hooking up the amp backwards, ie pos to neg and neg to pos

  3. whats the water level in the batteries? if its low it could cause them to read a little low

    ya those deepcycle 6v batteries aint cheap, i think ours cost $750 and we just have 6

    i wonder if u could run 3-4 12v marine/deep cycle batteries in series instead of 7 6v?

    could be cheaper but i dunno if resurve is the same, imo if it would work maby 3-4 everstart maxxx batteries to get said voltage

    if u need anything, heres a link to some info on soem things http://www.everythingcarts.com/

    hope that helps

  4. folded horns get louder due to space, i dunno how a 4th order would sound in a big area, buddy of mine had some b&w 3ways with 18's and u could feel the "midbass" like 2-300ft away

    something like this http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=246-406

    most pa drivers do there best in the right box, and they dont need extreme xmax to acheve this either, dudes 3ways where getting 150w if that and was loud as hell, and 18'' hardly moved

    depends if inside or outside, but inside a good slot ported box will work, outside a folded horn does better

    heres a video of what im talking about

    hope this helps

  5. pritty much, but most car crossovers are built a little better and usally take more power

    but in some cases, home audio is built a little better, thats why most of em dont need to be lower than 8ohms and dont take much power to get loud

    this is different from pa audio tho, my buddy had one hell of a setup in the shop, 2 b&w i think 3ways with 18'' slot ported, horn mid n horn tweet, ran from a realistic 300w 2ch radio and got loud as shit for 150wrms each side, and they take 1000rms each lol,

    just make sure ur boxs are good for the speakers, are u useing the pa style mids, and if u want loud ied try either 8's or something, but being its going in ur car after collage i can see where 6&1/2's would work, but the bigger mids aint that much more, and would help to keep up with the super tweets, just my .02

    good luck with what ever man, should be a killer party setup, imo ied look at pawnshops and what knot for a powered sub like u would use in a home surroundsound setup to hook up with it to help the bass output

  6. ya, most of the xovers ive got the ohm load is mostly on mid/woofer than tweet,

    but a little info about a speakers ohm load is that, the ohm load a speaker u see has is at rest (not moveing) when moveing it gives or takes resistance (goes up in ohm load or down) why theres a set point is that it gives u something to base off of so u got it in your mind where ur at with something so u dont blow up stuff

    thats why u hear about "independance rise" while a sub is in a box

    but with an amp, depending on your budget ied pick up something like this http://www.audiosavings.com/products/DJ-Professional-Amplifier/TECHNICAL-PRO-1500-WATT-INTEGRATED-DJ-AMPLIFIER-PRE-AMP/RXB503.aspx

    its cheap, should do good for what u want, and its not a car amp, should give u a cleaner power output, i mean its not the best ie crown and what knot, but its good for the price

  7. ya, a dc power alt is about the same price as a new replacement, but i know of an alt place but he dont like aftermarket alts, prolly cause they cost him buisness due to them not being made out of shit like stock stuff is

    i checked both batteries apart and front is like 12.5 or so, and rear is 12.3-12.4, would be a bitch to take the + terminal off, i was gunna try that but to much wire changeing, my power wire is stiff as hell

    but when im stoped my voltage goes down to 12v or so and when i go it goes back up again, i dont think its susposto do that that fast but then again

    i think it might be a voltage regulator going bad in the alt making it do this, i mean if belt was slipping it would make a noise, i dont make a noise anymore

    i have nere no time to work on shit but i'll try to see what i can do this weekend

    thankx for the feedback tho ppl :)

  8. 1.get a multimeter

    2. check voltage coming off alternator post directly

    have already done this sir :) i dunno what else to check, im going back outside n piddle with stuff to see if maby it came unpluged or something, i checked terminal, and at fuse block where 0guage goes to from alt and same reading, when i reved it i could get it to go to 13.1 13.2v and when i let off of it it would go back down to 12.6 or so,

    should i try n charge the batteries?

    i checked water level in front battery and its good, its a duralast gold 950cca, and rear is a c&d from ram i think its a 24ah battery

  9. voltage was same on posts and terminals

    grounds is good and terminals not cracked, just eat the chrome off of it, all i see now is a little copper, put some wd40 on it tho, keeps down the acid build up

    car never died, just made a wierd whining noise, and even if i beat on my system my lights didn't dim, and it acually runs better

    im gunna go check belt tention here in a min and see if its slipping or not

    and i dought its due to cold, its only like high 30's low 40s here, on the way home from work voltage never went below 13.4 full tilt, but now with radio on and volume all the way down and headlights on (hids) voltage goes to 11.6 11.4v while car running, doesn't sound normal to me

  10. well i was cleaning my throttle body and what knot and shut the hood, went inside for a while, went outside and off to get some chinese food,

    well i was bumping and what knot and i checked my volt meter and it said 12.2v so i was like "ok the meter was acting up befor so its not reading right"

    when i got home i pulled out my fieldpiece true rms volt meter and checked it with that and it said with car off 12.5v, with car on 12.8v and no accessories running

    does this mean my alt is gone?

  11. DId you sand the paint away from it?

    no it was some spray on rhino liner

    i think he ment where the ground was, most of those bolts are just to sheet metal with a nut welded on the back side, thats how i got mine wired for now, it works but it could be better

    try to sand where ground wire is and being the box is on it it could of wiggled loose, ied move it to a place that doesn't get to much movement

  12. ied check all connections too, could be either a bad ground or maby speaker wires came loose and throwing it into protect

    i dunno how u went up in power and no voltage drop, is it louder to ear and what ohm load do u have it at? try to wire it at a higher ohm load just to see what that does

    and if u have a mids n highs amp does it cut off too? mine would start to get distorted with voltage drop with my old stinger battery, the new c&d and not much of a voltage drop at all, still around 13.8v down to no less than 13.2v at "full tilt"

    oh, and with how u got it wired u need it, front battery, fuse, fuse, rear battery and then amp, the reason for the second fuse is to fuse the power comeing back threw the power wire i guess when car is off and what knot

    check voltage at amp too with a dmm (digital multi meter) and see what it goes to

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