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EpicenterDesigns

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Posts posted by EpicenterDesigns

  1. Repairing & Bonding Plastic

    in Interior / Exterior / Paint - Detailing, washing, waxing,tricks of the trade!

    Posted

    Did some price comparisions and the applicator gun for the SEM brand was $68. The gun for the Duramix was $90. The plastic repair for each style was the same price at $32.

    Since I use alot of SEM paints already, and the store keeps alot of SEM in stock, I chose that.

    It also helped that the gun was alot cheaper.

    If your interested in what I ordered, here is a list......

    http://www.sem.ws/product.php?product_id=241

    http://www.sem.ws/tech_sheet/QS50%20TDS.pdf

    http://www.sem.ws/product.php?product_id=104

    I use the 7oz tubes and gun for them.

  2. Repairing & Bonding Plastic

    in Interior / Exterior / Paint - Detailing, washing, waxing,tricks of the trade!

    Posted

    Items by dominion sure seal, come in smaller cartridges so you do not need to buy in bulk if only a small amount is going to be required.

    requires a calking gun for dispensing and very inexpensive

    http://www.dominionsureseal.com/productsde...37&catid=32

    http://www.dominionsureseal.com/productsde...46&catid=32

    xsme.JPG

    prodpicb146.gif

    http://www.dominionsureseal.com/productsde...45&catid=32

    ^^^the conversion kit to allow the product to be applied through a standard calking gun

    xsmapt.JPG

    http://www.dominionsureseal.com/productsde...67&catid=32

    XSMM218.jpg

    use self disposable mixing tips

  5. Repairing & Bonding Plastic

    in Interior / Exterior / Paint - Detailing, washing, waxing,tricks of the trade!

    Posted

    This has been asked to me a few times.

    We all know there are products like Duramix 4040 and SEM has similar products. But they require expensive guns to dispense it and each product uses a different style gun running cost up more.:mad:

    So in my quest to find something different, I came across Dominion Seal and a some new products by Evercoat.

    I am gonna quote some stuff I have previously answered......

    Originally posted by mixbreedblaze

    what would you suggest on filling small knicks in the plastic and deep scratches....

    I am gonna assume that the nicks and scratches are pretty deep and the filler primers won't fill them or you just want to start of with a smooth surface.

    I have 2 products to share with you.

    The first one is a plastic surgury repair compound. You mix it like regular body fillers in a 1:1 ratio. They have 3 different variations for your needs.

    xpsap,%20xpsapc,%20xpsap.JPG

    XPSAP Semi-Rigid Epoxy is a two-component semi rigid modified epoxy designed as an “ALL PURPOSE” plastic repair material. XPSAP’s unique formulation allows you to use this product on the full spectrum of automotive plastics. When in doubt on which type of plastic (flexible, semi-rigid, or rigid) you are repairing use XPSAP. XPSAP is formulated to work on all plastics including the more common and also the traditional “tough to bond” plastics (TPUR, PUR, RIM, PP, TPO, TPE). This product is designed as an adhesive and filler to be used on the front and backsides of a repair. XPSAP can also be used over our Urethane Repair material (XSMAP, XSM11000). XPSAP is an outstanding Semi-Rigid filler that is commonly used as a glaze coat over all types of plastics due to its easy sanding and featheredging characteristics. XPSAP may also be used as a multipurpose adhesive. Some areas of use include: door skins (metal and plastic), rusted patch panels, backer panels (metal, SMC, Fiberglass, and Rigid Plastics), ground effects, etc. XPSAP bonds, fills, and sands with outstanding performance. This semi-rigid adhesive/filler is used and approved by automotive OEMs such as GM, Toyota, VW and many others. The “Original Plastic Surgery” as used by the professionals.

    XRF Rigid Epoxy is a two-component modified rigid epoxy designed for the repair of rigid composite plastics and fiberglass. XRF is formulated to work on all rigid composite plastics including (SMC, BMC & RTM). XRF is ideal for use on fiberglass parts where extra strength is required. This product is designed as an adhesive and filler on the front and backsides of repairs. XRF can also be used over our Urethane Repair material (XSMAR). XRF is an excellent rigid filler that is commonly used by the professional plastic repairers due to its sanding, adhesion and featheredging characteristics. XRF may also be used to bond non structural metal, SMC, Fiberglass, Rigid plastics, and glass. XRF bonds, fills, and sands with no pinholes. This rigid adhesive/filler is also used and approved by automotive OEMs such as GM, Toyota, VW and many others. The “Original Plastic Surgery” as used by the professionals.

    OEM Approved Epoxy

    Rigid Bonding & Plastic Repair

    XRFNTR is a two-part Rigid Bonding epoxy designed for use on Rigid thermoset plastics and fiberglass. XRFNTR is formulated to Bond all Rigid plastics such as SMC, BMC, RTM, Fiberglass and all fiber reinforced plastics. Excellent on header panels & headlight housings and can be drilled & tapped.

    Used and approved for Rigid Plastic Bonding or filling applications by many OEM such as GM, Toyota, VW and others. XRFNTR offers high heat resistance with excellent tooling. XRFNTR can also be used for the bonding of Non Structural metal panels if a two-part bonding adhesive is desired in a manual-mixing tube kit. XRFNTR may be used to bond patch panels, door skins, quarter panels, and most Non Structural metal panels. XRFNTR may also be used as a side channel glass adhesive. Please see “Instructions for Panel Bonding” prior to using as a metal bonder.

  6. Post pics of your dog(s)

    in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"

    Posted

    ^are boxers very hyper dogs... i always wanted one but everybody i have talked to about them say then bing off the damn walls...?

    They have alot of energy. But are very smart and very good with people, especially kids.

    She gets spastic sometimes and dart around the house, around the tables, jumps on the bed and does circles and falls out on the floor panting. Just crazy. But i wouldn't trade her for anything.

    If you have a chance to own one, do it.

  7. Wet Sanding

    in Interior / Exterior / Paint - Detailing, washing, waxing,tricks of the trade!

    Posted

    On interior plastic pieces and panels, it is recommended to wet sand.

    Do this by hand on smaller parts and if you use some form of mechanicall sander, use a light grit so you don't heat the plastic up and start melting it. When it starts to melt, more oils rise to the top and you need to sand them down by hand anyways.

    Wet sanding will help the sand paper stay cleaner longer. It also helps it slide across the surfuse smoother, leaving less sanding marks.

    Texas tech, you even admitted to skipping steps, so don't be surprised by the results. You didn't have time then, but now you need to go back to square 1. Even more time.

    If you must use spray can primer, use SEM Filler primers. http://www.sem.ws/product.php?product_id=148

    148_a.jpg

    To properly wet sand, use some soapy warm water if possible. It will clean the surface at the same time. I usually keep a bucket of water beside me and use a squirt bottle to keep the paper and surface wet.

  19. Small Video Of The S10

    in Member Videos - Host 'em & Post 'em! System Vids / Off Topic

    Posted

    that's a beautiful box, Don't get mad if i steal you idea for an extended cab pickup sometime.

    what amp ya got on it and how much are those sub, whats their specs?

    It's an old school Kicker 1200 amp and the subs are discontinued.

    Specs on the subs as I can recall are 1000watts RMS/2000 peak, 22mm xmax, 6 cubes needed for airspace and 2 - 4" ports 6" long. This was the top sub for MA back in 99. Old.

  21. Questions about Painting interior Plastic

    in Interior / Exterior / Paint - Detailing, washing, waxing,tricks of the trade!

    Posted

    so after you spray with adhesion promoter and filler primer, you sand it again with 400 grit, im guessing you sand really lightly because there wont be much you need to sand down.

    There should be a good amount of primer on there to fill in any grain left. I actually start with 220, but I know what I am doing and how hard to go at it. No offense meant.

  22. Questions about Painting interior Plastic

    in Interior / Exterior / Paint - Detailing, washing, waxing,tricks of the trade!

    Posted

    bascially i went to fiberglassingforum.com and found an awesome how to paint your interior plastics and such but i have a few questions.

    so after you spray with adhesion promoter and filler primer, you sand it again with 400 grit, im guessing you sand really lightly because there wont be much you need to sand down.

    then you clean it off and spray the paint on there. So you dont add more primer after you sand the 400 grit/before you apply the paint?

    At the Very last, it says if you are not happy with the outcome of the painted piece, wetsandw ith 600 grit. Clean it and apply a clear coat.

    So then after you painted it, you sand it with a very high grit, clean it and then add clear coat only? you dont add another layer of adhesion promoter,primer, and paint, or even just another layer of paint only. I would think the finish would look weird if you sanded it down then added a clear coat.I would think after you sand it down with the 600 grit you should put atleast one layer of paint on (if not primer before it) and then added a clear coat. Or would it look okay just sanding it down with 600 grit and a clear coat.

    And i have heard that adhesion promoter is optional and you only have to use it if the primer doesnt stick...is that right

    Oh, and why do you wetsand twice, once with 200 grit, and once with 400 grit

    after the adhesion promoter and primer is applied? After that you you never add primer again, not even before you paint?

    From some people i have asked, they have basically said to paint interior plastic pieces, sanding it down is optional, then add adhesion promoter (optional, if necessary) then add primer and then paint. You dont even need to sand or add adhesion promoter. Oh and you can add a clear coat if you want.

    Is adhesive spray and adhesion promoter the same thing?

    Well since i wrote that How-To article, I will reply to it here.

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