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Hondabiker95

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Posts posted by Hondabiker95

  1. If by pass-thru you mean running a set of rca's out of the amp into the input of the other amp then yes. You could do that or just run another set of rca's from the head unit. But personally i wouldn't bother wasting another precious rca output off the head unit. The way I have mine run, I have my mids and highs amp running out of the pass thru, since my piece of shit radio only has one rca out lol. Also it's funny you should ask that ohm load question. Gave me deja vu because literally an hour ago I was looking into getting an sp4 and wondering if I run mine like that what the ohm load would be. But I think if it is a dual 2 then you don't really have any other option than to run each amp at 2 ohms. Luckily if it is a bdcp, you still make shittons of power at 2 ohms. (I think mine does 1788 at 2 ohms, and 1960 at 1) so not much of a loss running 2 ohms. Either way, If you figure 1500 watts per coil, you will still be feeding that beast plenty of power! Just make sure you're electrical system can handle all that power.

  2. Right now I'm running a single 1500-bdcp to an FI ssd 18. I was thinking of doing a single sp4 18 with one bdcp on each coil. I see nothing wrong with that setup provided you match the gains properly. I know meade runs one 2500 per coil on his subs, although I don't think the 1500 has the same sync mode that the 2500 has. Either way, I don't think you need to strap amps to run 2 on each sub. Good luck with the setup. My SSD beats the living hell out of my windshield so I would imagine twice the power and an sp4 would be a whole new level :drink40:

  3. Ok so for a SSD 18 Fi recommends this:

    Ported box: 6-10 cuft @ 33Hz

    Driver displacement for that sub = 0.22 cuft.

    Assuming you are giving internal dimensions and with the port you specify your box specs as follows:

    Fb = 26,952 Hz

    Vb = 6,305 ft^3

    Port Area/Vb = 9,993

    So you are tuned low and port area is low.

    Recommendation is as follows use a double layer baffle, change port width to 4 in, and retune to 33Hz. If you like that I will let you know the size of the pieces of wood you are missing to make the L port.

    That sounds perfect to me, although, are you sure about the 26hz? I used the torres calculator and double checked it, comes out to 33hz.

    I just realized my measurments were off, :Doh: the box is 17.5inches tall once the 3/4'' mdf is accounted for.

    Also, Bear in mind the port is on the side that is 21inches tall. however, I think i've got it figured out. My box is actually 6.95 cuft. and the port can be 3.7inches wide and 30 inches long :drinks:

    I think you may be confusing external dimensions and internal dimensions measure the external dimensions on the box (yes add 0.75 to the depth because the baffle is not installed) and then substract 1.5 inches to each one and those are you internal dimensions, the INTERNAL height is the height of the port.

    Sorry for confusing everyone here. It made sense in my head. The 21 inches was the internal height. And the 17.5 is the depth. The height is 22.5 on the outside.

  4. Ok so for a SSD 18 Fi recommends this:

    Ported box: 6-10 cuft @ 33Hz

    Driver displacement for that sub = 0.22 cuft.

    Assuming you are giving internal dimensions and with the port you specify your box specs as follows:

    Fb = 26,952 Hz

    Vb = 6,305 ft^3

    Port Area/Vb = 9,993

    So you are tuned low and port area is low.

    Recommendation is as follows use a double layer baffle, change port width to 4 in, and retune to 33Hz. If you like that I will let you know the size of the pieces of wood you are missing to make the L port.

    That sounds perfect to me, although, are you sure about the 26hz? I used the torres calculator and double checked it, comes out to 33hz.

    I just realized my measurments were off, :Doh: the box is 17.5inches tall once the 3/4'' mdf is accounted for.

    Also, Bear in mind the port is on the side that is 21inches tall. however, I think i've got it figured out. My box is actually 6.95 cuft. and the port can be 3.7inches wide and 30 inches long :drinks:

  5. Ok so for a SSD 18 Fi recommends this:

    Ported box: 6-10 cuft @ 33Hz

    Driver displacement for that sub = 0.22 cuft.

    Assuming you are giving internal dimensions and with the port you specify your box specs as follows:

    Fb = 26,952 Hz

    Vb = 6,305 ft^3

    Port Area/Vb = 9,993

    So you are tuned low and port area is low.

    Recommendation is as follows use a double layer baffle, change port width to 4 in, and retune to 33Hz. If you like that I will let you know the size of the pieces of wood you are missing to make the L port.

    That sounds perfect to me, although, are you sure about the 26hz? I used the torres calculator and double checked it, comes out to 33hz.

  6. If you plan on getting a second one in the future, it won't matter. I think you are forgetting voicecoil configurations and your possible nominal ohm loads. I would do the AA Chaos for about $50 more opposed to $80 more. Or get the SSD D1, wire to 2 ohms, then get the second one to wire down to 1 ohm nominal.

    That was the plan :P My amp does 1600w at 2 ohms and 1965 at 1. But I really don't have the extra $50 to spend, If I did I would probably go more RE sx since I've heard those things can take 3kw in the right box.

  7. Ok so here we go I got the specs below, this box will house 1 FI SSD 18. tell me what you guys think.

    Box dimensions: 6.3Cu.ft.

    Width=40in

    Depth=16in

    Height=21in

    My question lies with the port. My port dimensions are as follows; Port height=21in

    Port length=29in Port width=3 inches. Will 3 inches be wide enough to allow sufficient port area? Or do I need to go up to 4? Also, I can make the port longer, as long as the ssd 18 is not more than 11 inches deep. Once displacement is accounted for this box will be about 5 cuft. I realize it's too small but I originally built it for 2 RF T1's. So it's more or less a temp setup.

    Port is drawn up in the top right

    PIC_0109.jpg

  8. This thread will be out soon so decide what will you be using and post a build thread, from there I can calculate your box or you can use the Torres calculator, My vote goes to Fi easily from those two.

    Got a build thread up, and sorry about this thread being against the rules :/. But I will pm you the dimensions if that's ok with you. I appreciate the help guys.

  9. I'm working with 2kw @ 1ohm. And 1500ish @ 2ohms. I will get 1 18 for now and run it at 2 ohms. Then buy another when I build my wall and drop it to 1ohm. Anyways, I just wanted some people with first hand experience to let me know what they think. Price is a HUGE factor for me, being 16.

    Here's my unfinished box if anyone cares to see. I also need some help calculating the slot port for 33hz. I've only worked with aero ports in the past. :P

    IMAG0151.jpg

  10. Ok so Long story short I've been a tried and true aero-port guy for Ages. But now Im working on my first slot port configuration. My box is 6.3 cu.ft. and will house 1 fi ssd 18. Im looking for a tuning of 33hz. Basically I have no clue where to start. Is there some sort of program I can use to make the calculations for me? Sorry, like I said im used to aero ports and only calculating length, Im a :noob: to slot ports.

  11. Well my cousin had a sidekick back in the days with 2 15's facing forward and no port and it got stupid loud.Im pretty sure if you did port and subs forward it would sound really nice.Can't really say that its the best way cause I have no personal experience with that car.Either way you learn from trial and error.Do you have any pics?

    I've also decided against the T1s because I realized FI ssd's are not much more expensive and 2 18's would stomp the 12's so I'm going to stick one FI ssd 18 in there in the box that I've got now and when I buy another I will look into building a wall. For now I have everything wired up and sounding nice on 1 P3 12" at 8 ohms and that amp is beating the hell out of it, the best amp I've owned period. Clean and raw power.

  12. please don't tell me he calls this a "3000" watt build because of the peak rating...

    :suicide-santa:

    edit: on another note, should be a good build.

    First off let me apologize as I forgot all about this old topic and posted a new one :/ But in the system's entirety I was planning on adding another t1500bdcp. But I think ive changed my mind on that one due to price. However this amp births 1965 watts. And my mids and highs amp will be another 500 so there's 2500 right there :D. But anyways it should be really loud

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