Ladybridgeport
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Posts posted by Ladybridgeport
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Lizard skin is like second skin spectrum. It's a liquid sound deadner you spray onto the vehicles surface. I dunno how well it would work on the inside of the enclosure though.
The guy I worked with used it on a sealed box and got a 3 dB increase, but worried that it would create drag on a vented enclosure
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link to said lizard skin?
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I am making a ported enclosure with a changeable port from SPL to SQ. Someone I work with recommended using lizard skin to line the inside of my ported enclosure to gain 3 dB. Wouldn't that add friction to the inside of the box and sound crapped when listening to music for SQ? Anyone opinions from their experience?
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If you think your starter is causing heat then you must have a very small or poor connection somewhere. Pictures would help in this case.
This battery below is not supplying power to starter, but near where starter is grounded. Terminal with black rubber protector below is the ground wire for the starter. 1/0 AWG
Corrosion on image below is starting battery. This is the ground post. Positive does NOT have any corrosion. All batteries are grounded to same busbar and busbar is grounded to steel angle iron battery rack, which is grounded to body though welded nuts, plus three 0000 AWG wires are going from busbar to alternator brackets for engine ground. Starter power and ground are both 1/0 AWG. Metra IB500 500 amp isolator shuts off positive from starter battery when cranking and in engine off position. Isolator is more like a huge relay than an actual isolator. There is no fuse going from starter to back battery bank.
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None of my batteries sizzle either, and i have 930+ amps of alternator charging going to 3 batteries, and not even a stereo in the truck at the moment to drain the batteries..
You really need to check out your issues in your vehicle before you do something to cause even more damage!
I had a battery isloator to switch off 1 of my 9 batteries when cranking. When the battery is switched off, the positive is disconnected from the battery bank, but the negative is connected to the bank and the bank is grounded to the engine and body. I noticed corrosion on my negative of the busbar on the starting battery and the part on the negative bus bar where the starter wire is grounded, which would be near battery number five a few feet fro mthe starter battery. I think my starter is causing heat.
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why not do what everyone else does and charge your front as well as the rears. are they 16volt in the rear or anything like that or all 12 or 14 volt?
I don't want to charge the front with it because my back batteries sizzle because the other two alternators overcharge them. Plus it's a bad idea to have a 8,000-14,000 watt amp draw power from the front. The marine switches are like $80-$180 and seem to high for what they are. I found a tractor battery cutoff switch rated at 100 amps, which would work for the front battery, but every 400 amps is like a home switch box or like in the movies where the guy puts a wrench in the fuse and lifts the huge lever. I don't want to use a circuit breaker because it will trip. The breakers are not like fuses. The breaker trip when too hot and a lot of current will trip it, which is why car buffs don't use them anymore.
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Does anyone know where to find a switch that can handle 400 amps VDC? I have a 390 amp alternator and want to shut the wire off going to my 9 battery bank of batteries so the alternator can power my front battery. I have a switch for the front battery to turn that off when I want the alternator to charge the 9 battery bank. Anyone know where to find a 400 amp switch for DC?
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I figured out why the batteries sizzle. When I crank my car, the battery isolator separates the positive from my starting battery on my 9 battery bank. When vehicle is not cranking for starting, the isolator reconnects the positive so all 9 batteries are connected. Sometimes the isolator doesn't switch back. When that happens, the negative of my battery is on the busbar and the positive is not connected and is causing a backfeed because the negative is not disconnected. One thing I wonder about is if I have a separate alternator and separate battery. the positive from the alternator and vehicle battery will be separate from the other batteries and my other 2 alternators, but body ground is common for everything. Do you think there is chance that the problem can occur because everything shares a ground?
note:
For my battery bank, each alternator has ground wire from the where the alternator is mounted and a positive wire from the alternator post to the respective + and - on battery bank. When the vehicle is running all 3 alternators charge my battery bank, except the starting battery which shares ground only all the time and isolator separates the positive. The isolator is a Metra IB500 500 amp isolator, more like a big relay not a true isolator.
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Are you using a dmm to check voltage at the alt?
Or just some digital voltage guage?
I'm using oscope plus 440 to check the voltage at the alternators and the batteries. The s-terminal reads 17 volts as well. I'm using the dc power 390xp alternators
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So your charging over 15 volts to 12 volt batteries?
EDIT: Stupid enter button...
ANyway, isn't anything over 15 volts to 12 volt batteries bad?
I thought the alternators charged at 14.4v when purchasing. Some say 15.1v shouldn't matter, but other say it does.
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I have 9 shuriken sk-bt120 batteries with three 390 amp alternators. I think my alternators are overshacrging my batteries. It's a 2000 monte carlo and my batteries sizzle and have some corrosion on two battery posts. I cleaned them off, when it got warmer outside again the corrossion came back. All three alternators connect to my busbar. I have a 500 amp battery isolator that switches when I start the vehicle for my starter battery. My alternators charge at 15.1volts and I do not have my stereo system in yet so the only current draw I have is blower motor and headlights.
My dad says the alternators are overcharging my batteries and says I should remove 1 alternator and replace it with a 100 amp alternator that charges at 14.4v. Let that alternator charge the batteries and hook my other two 390 amp alternators that charge at 15.1v on a switch to switch on when I blast my stereo system. Anyone have any thoughts on an alternator size for my primary? etc any other thoughts or recommendations?
My current setup has 9 batteries in the trunk. I removed the front battery. My stereo system sub amp is the soundstream XXX-15000D which has a capable of 1400 amps, but will probably only use 8,000-9,000 watts worth, plus a 2 soundstream reference 4.920 amps for my mids, highs, and midbass. My subs are the Soundstream X3-182 18" subwoofers DVC 2 ohm. I'll run the amp at 2 ohm and the other amps at 4 ohm.
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We provide those relays because they're extremely reliable and they have negative spike suppression for the regulator. Plus, it's never a bad thing to have overhead.
Normally when I go to start my car. I turn on ignition and my volt meter is around 13.4 volts. when running, it's at 15.1 volts
Sometimes when I start my car, the dash volt meter reads 10 volts. when I metered the batteries and alternators, I got a reading of 17.3 volts. then my batteries sizzle, which is hydrogen gas being released from being overcharged. My headlights were dim and all my vehicle accessories were running off 10 volts, every wire connected to my alternators or batteries showed 17.3 volts. I turned my car off & started back up 5 times and problem repeated. this usually only happens in the morning or after vehicle has been sitting awhile. The alternators had a weird smell, not burning more popcorn like.
For my 3 alternators, the 1st is in the OEM location with OEM harness metrapack plug. The second and third alternators turn on with the 40/60 relays supplied by DC power inc the 40/60 amp relays. I used custom metrapack connectors and terminals to make custom length harnesses. The wiring for the relays is as follows: Vehicle Accessory 2 switches on 30/40 amp 12vdc automotive relay that allows power from the battery to a power distribution block which turns on the two DC power inc supplied relays, in turn switch on the alternators (alternator plug wire 1). A separate positive feed for each alternator is fed through the other wire via fused from the batteries (alternator plug wire 2). I kept the wiring the same as the instructions suggested except the relays are under the dash instead of next to the alternators to prevent being exposed to the elements since the car is driven in the winter. Prior to making this change, I called Stan and he recommended 12 AWG power wire which I used.
The problem is intermittent. Alterations to vehicle power system. Removed front battery. Added 9 batteries in the trunk with steel welded battery tray bolts to buts that were welded to body. Battery 1 is separated by a 500 amp isolator relay when engine is off and in crank position. Battery 1 is connected to other 8 batteries in ignition position. 1/0 power and separate 1/0 ground wire run from the battery busbar to the vehicle starter., piggyback from starter with 100 amp fuse to vehicle wiring harness fuse distribution with another 100 amp fuse. (OEM had power wire from alternator to starter piggy backed to battery, then to vehicle wiring harness.) 4/0 AWG power with 400 amp fuse and separate 4/0 AWG ground cable are run from each alternator to the battery busbar fused 400 amps at busbar as well. The following pic is the adapter to extend the OEM alternator harness since I had to make an H bracket for it to fit right. The second pic is the custom harness for the 2nd and 3rd alt. The 3rd pic is the 1st alt with OEM wiring (OEM harness with the extension adapter I made from pic 1). On 2nd and 3rd alternator, the first wire on the plug (at the end of harness) is constant positive and the 2nd wire (3rd position on harness) is hot when vehicle accessory 2 is hot. the last pic is my wiring layout for my accessories. I do not have any stereo equipment installed yet so there is not heavy draw other than the vehicle accessories.
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I added 1000 lbs of weight to my 2000 Chevrolet Monte carlo for my SPL system. my batteries, amp, subs, and enclosure added 1000 lbs to the rear end area. I upgrade the suspension on the rear, but I need better stopping power and bigger brake pads and rotors. Does anyone know a start for me to decide what brand or what type of brakes to look at?
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How big of a hard drive and how much ram would you be running to it? Will the screen be touch screen or will be a trackpad keyboard set up?
I'm doing that to my monte carlo with a 10" touchscreen. Anything smaller would be a bit nerve racking to try to be accurate with the touchscreen. Get a solid state hard drive so vibration and bumbs don't mess things up. I got a USB GPS antenna so I have nav with it. My motherboard has fiber optic output and my sound processor has fiber optic input so I'll have virtually pure signal. I'm going to have multiple hard drives for my music and copy from CD to wav format. I also am using a fusion brain and removing my heater controls integrating them to my computer. I could go to the extent of USB bluetooth and stream my music from a phone. Later I may add a second computer and replace my cluster gauge with 7" LCD or touch screens.
This is what I bought: 619.28 with shipping
From MP3car.com
1. COM-102 Ultra Slim External Optical Drive Enclosure USB 2.0 for Slimline SATA Drives $15.99
2. MON-104 Lilliput 10.1 Inch USB Touch Screen UM-1010/C/T $229.99
3. COM-133 Fusion Brain Version 6 $69.95
4. ADT-011 4-Port USB Hub USB-MH20-GRY $5.99 (needs power adapter)
5. SOF-022 Centrafuse Auto Navigation Edition for North America $124.99
6. PWR-023 Mp3Car DSATX 220 Watt Automotive Power Supply (note: needs ATX 20 Pin TO 24 Pin Female to Male Power Adapter Cable) $159.99
6a. ATX 20 Pin TO 24 Pin Female to Male Power Adapter Cable $2.95 on ebay
The rest I bought from buy.com: $364.41 with shipping
7. ASUS AT5IONT-I Desktop Motherboard - Intel - Socket BGA-559 - Mini ITX - 1 x Processor Support - 4 G
8. Kingston ValueRAM KVR800D3S8S6/2G RAM Module - 2 GB (1 x 2 GB) - DDR3 SDRAM - 800 MHz DDR3-800/PC3-6
9. Intel 320 Series SSDSA2CT040G3 40GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
10. PLDS DC-8A2SH Internal DVD-Writer - OEM Pack - Black - DVD-RAM/±R/±RW Support - 8x Read/8x Write/8x
Ituner Networks Corporation Mini itx case and accys: $60.21 with shipping
11. 1 M350 Universal Mini-ITX enclosure $39.95
12. 2 DF124010BM FANS Top Motor 40x40x10mm $5.98
13. 1 M350-HDD Brackets $1.95
other things I bought were anti-static gloves and grounding strap. Also 2 pin cable for computer led status and reset button so I can monitor and reset at the dash with computer in trunk. Some FLAT CAT6 wire, which is good 26AWG wire for fusion brain relay switching. I used nino micro 12v relays 1/2" in size.
From carMP3.com:
14.COM-111 Joycon EX Steering Wheel Control PC Interface $47.34 with shipping
To save on power because my power supply is small and don't want to overload CPU:
15. 5 Volt 2 Amp Switching Power Supply Item # d-400116 I don't remember the site, but this is on the paypal invoice [email protected]
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When I receive my three alternators from dcengineering, they supplied a 3/-40 amp relay for each alternator. I connected an O-scope to see what the current draw is since I was taking the power from my rear battery to switch on the relay. One thing I noticed when trying to determine the fuse rating for the alternator turn on is that the current draw for the alternator turn on is in the milliamps. Keep in mind there are 3 hot wires and 1 ground. The ground is through the alternator case and is grounded to wherever the alt is mounted. The 1st hot wire is the output to your battery. The 2nd hot wire turns on the alternator which measures in milliamp current draw. The third hot wire powers the alternator which also draw milliamps in current. Why would they supply such a large relay for the alternator if it's max current draw is not even close to 1 amp?
SPL/SQ enclosure with Lizard Skin
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
perhaps my coworker was trying to deceive me