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Brian2435

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Posts posted by Brian2435

  1. Most car audio components are designed to work in infinite baffle setups, if you model most of those speakers you will get very large boxes suggested by the software but I guess a large box with a net internal volume of an average car door is about right for them at most. Many people have claimed satisfactory results with boxes smaller than that.

    What would consider to be a small or large enclosure? .25(small) to .5(large) cu ft?

  2. as for car speakers for a home stereo, car speakers are 4 ohms, home speakers are 8 ohms. I would make a tower type enclosures with two speakers in each and connect them together in series unless your running a crossover capacitor on your single driver (which you probably should for a midrange frequency 500hz and up , your not talking mid bass 90hz and up are you?) . If not, 4 ohms might overheat your amplifier.

    As for box size you can make it pretty small for midrange? They do sell midrange speakers with sealed backs,so depending on your crossover hz is? If you want more mid bass, then build a larger box with some polyfill.

    there are a lot of websites for enclosure building out there

    Ya I was looking at a component set so maybe I'll get lucky and each driver for each set is 4 ohms. Thanks

  3. I wouldn't buy car audio speakers just to use in your home audio. You can get better pricing and sound using home audio speakers. Check out Parts Express, they have a lot DIY stuff there to get you started.

    http://www.parts-express.com/

    Ya I'm familiar with that site. I was mainly looking for a set of speakers so I could build my own enclosures and just make something to my liking. I'll take a look at the site to see if they have home speakers that I'm looking for. Thanks

  4. So just messing around in WinIsd, I saw that a 8w3 has a good response curve that I like when in a 2 cubic foot box and tuned to 28 hz. But, seeing as this is only an 8 inch sub, would it still "work" in a 2 cu ft box? And do what it says it would do? If any one has any experience with the 8w3's and good setups, feel free to share.

    Thanks

  5. The answers you got really are the main points that need to be made. Sound is different per person and dependent upon your ears...so I have never noticed louder scores when going from 14^2 to 16^2 to 22^2. What I have noticed is that the boxes become more and more peaky. "peaky" means a big hump in the frequency response just above the F3 point. A box being peaky is not caused by the port size (unless it is undersized and has too much compression), the tuning frequency vs. the box size vs. the driver parameters will determine the frequency response. High Q designs will have more peak. Usually works out great in a car where cabin gain boosts the lower frequencies. That is why you see car subs tuned 30-35 Hz, but home subs tuned down around 20 with drivers that have different t/s parameters (or amps with EQ on the lower end). I'm not sure if you're expecting more, or thinking that more port equals louder, it doesn't always unless the sub isn't given enough port to begin with. Some say port area to volume has zero connection whatsoever and maybe they will chime in.
    Ya this topic mainly derived from my enclosure where I undersized the port area a lot and therefore port noise is a huge issue. So I mainly wanted to know how about I would be able to make a new enclosure with a great port that would maximize the subwoofers performance, mainly sound quality wise.

    like i said, my first ported box, not enough port area, low scores and i forgot to mention the port noise. Built a new box with the right port area, and it did better on the meter, sounded louder and cleaner to my ears, and the annoying chuffing sound of the port was gone.

    Ya I'm definitely going to follow that path and make an overall better box. Using winisd, my design looks a lot better than my current build. Plus about 150 feet per second less port airflow, which, I know, is ridiculous. I'm really looking forward to seeing better output from my sub

  6. Never ever go by factory recommended enclosures...they are 99% of the time not optimal at all. They'll tell you to use small boxes and small ports so that you can fit more of their equipment in your install, instead of giving you specs for a higher performing enclosure.

    Alright then, do you suggest I use an enclosure software to design my box?

  7. I'm looking to make a ported enclosure for my vmax 15. In the manual it says that the internal volume for both the recommended sealed and ported enclosures are the same, 2 cubic feet. From my experience, I've always seen the recommended ported enclosures to be larger than the sealed. So my question is, has anyone had any experience with these subs and found/know if the 2 cubic feet volume for a ported enclosure would work? Or should I go with one a little larger...

  8. The answers you got really are the main points that need to be made. Sound is different per person and dependent upon your ears...so I have never noticed louder scores when going from 14^2 to 16^2 to 22^2. What I have noticed is that the boxes become more and more peaky. "peaky" means a big hump in the frequency response just above the F3 point.

    A box being peaky is not caused by the port size (unless it is undersized and has too much compression), the tuning frequency vs. the box size vs. the driver parameters will determine the frequency response. High Q designs will have more peak. Usually works out great in a car where cabin gain boosts the lower frequencies. That is why you see car subs tuned 30-35 Hz, but home subs tuned down around 20 with drivers that have different t/s parameters (or amps with EQ on the lower end).

    I'm not sure if you're expecting more, or thinking that more port equals louder, it doesn't always unless the sub isn't given enough port to begin with. Some say port area to volume has zero connection whatsoever and maybe they will chime in.

    Ya this topic mainly derived from my enclosure where I undersized the port area a lot and therefore port noise is a huge issue. So I mainly wanted to know how about I would be able to make a new enclosure with a great port that would maximize the subwoofers performance, mainly sound quality wise.

  9. Thanks for the responses. I saw online that per cubic foot of enclosure volume you should have 15 sq inches of port area. Has anyone heard of anything like this?

    12 to 16 square inches of port area PER cubic feet of net volume for slot ported boxes, High excursion subs are given more port area so lean towards 16 with those.

    It's just a rule of thumb that makes it easy to have a viable port without having use math/modelling oriented methods.

    Sounds good man thanks

  10. So let's just say(this whole situation is hypothetical) you had two enclosures with equal volume. You also had two cylindrical ports. One with a 2 inch diameter and with a length of 8 inches, and one with a five inch diameter and a length of 15 inches. Let's just also say that both ports would have equal tuning when put in the enclosure. Would there be any sound difference in the two different ports, even though they have the same tuning with the enclosure volume?

  11. Bridge channels 1 and 2 on the 4 channel amp and plug to left speaker. Bridge 3 and 4 channel and plug to right speaker. Use RCA splitter and put red RCA to both plugs for channels 3 and 4. Use another RCA splitter and put white RCA to both plugs for channels 1 and 2. This will give you true left and right with decent power out of the amp.

    Oh I didn't even think of that. Thanks a lot

  12. so im gonna wire up two home speakers (8 ohms each) to a car amplifier(because they're rms rating is more than i can find home receivers for without spending over $300) so i was just gonna hook up a car amp in my house to power them. so i have two questions:

    1. is the only way to get a true left and right sound from the speakers is to hook them up to a 2 channel amplifier? im pretty sure you cant bridge the two speakers to one monoblock or bridge them to 2 channels each on a 4 channel amp, because it would be giving the speakers the same output, not left and right.

    2. is there any negative to wire 8 ohm speakers to a car amp channel, because most dont rate the amplifier at 8 ohms, typically 4 ohms or lower. would this only just reduce the power output of the amplifier?

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