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1clio6

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Posts posted by 1clio6

  7. Sundown Audio SAZ-3000D

    in Sundown Audio - GREAT Amps/Subs! GREAT Customer Service!

    Posted

    Hi all, Im from the UK and im after one of the above amps, I have had no luck in my country so im on here now as its my last hope.

    If anyone has one for sale, Would they be interested in shipping it across the water?

    It can be working or broken as I can have it repaired.

    I would be extremely appreciate it if someone came forward with one,

    Let me know if you have anything and interested, I have cash waiting

    Thanks all

    Appologies if i am not allowed to post a wanted on here , i have also paid to put it in classifieds , just want to spread the word further as im quite desperate to find one of these .

  8. Port Area for X-12's

    in Sundown Audio - GREAT Amps/Subs! GREAT Customer Service!

    Posted

    in my current box, my 6 Xs where seeing 2.3cuft each . the port area for the box is 8sqin per cuft . between 5 - 5.5kw of power rated (not clamped) , in a no-wall build, last termlab session, I was doing 151.8db at 20hz and 154db at 34hz. so yes, small ports do work for these subs aswell as big ports, it depends what you are looking for in your system. flat response = smaller port, higher peak = bigger port. simples :)

  9. My box design for 8 x-12's, 4 CA 3500's

    in Sundown Audio - GREAT Amps/Subs! GREAT Customer Service!

    Posted

    Is it that Clio guy that it's helping you? I can see after the bad input you've received over the couple designs that you've posted, why you're wanting to keep the future designs secret. I'm sorry if I've come off as harsh. I really want to see you succeed man, seriously. All I will say, as far as real advice goes is please give the subs enough port area to perform. Don't get caught up in "port per square foot", that isn't going to help you. A sub needs how much port a sub NEEDS. It doesn't matter if that sub is in 3 cubic feet or 2 cubic feet. So don't pay attention to port per square foot. Overall port area is what you're after.

    And I'll throw in another idea, don't run your amps at half ohm. You're going to have tons of cone area you don't need to overpower the subs like that. 1 ohm per sub will be just fine, meaning you need to but subs that will wire at a final load of 1 ohm per two subs. If you truly plan on sending a SHITLOAD of power to each sub, consider that you'll need to shrink the box size to compensate for overdriving your woofer. If you have those subs in an enclosure meant for a sub being sent RMS power, you could have issues with keeping the sub under control mechanically(not to mention the extra heat you'll create with the extra power and stress the sub thermally TOO)

    Anyway, those area my $.02(maybe more). Like I said, I want to see you succeed with this project and I want to see videos of this monster. Have a nice day :)

    Im guessing its me you mean with the clio. ive had no input on the box design that has been given above, I just stated some details of my box. in the uk we use a smaller port area because of the frequencies we have to run in the propper droppers format. try playing a 20hz tone full tilt on anything over rated power with a larger port area and you will run into mechanical problems, that's why we limit our port area to below 10sqin per cuft as that seems to work best. the loudest in out country run just over 6sqin per cuft and still doing over 160db at 33hz and 157db at 20hz.

    that is not to say its loudest with a smaller port area, but its what we have to stick to if we want to compete in the format and have good results.

    just to clear up that is not bad advice, just what works best for us :)

  10. Sundown "Big Motors" Comparison Pics

    in Sundown Audio - GREAT Amps/Subs! GREAT Customer Service!

    Posted · Edited by 1clio6

    Probably a stupid question but why do the newer designs have a pointed part in the center of the motor while the older ones are flat?

    its the extended pole piece, my recollection is that's its there to keep the coil centered when the coil leaves the gap because these are super high xmax motors, and also stop the coil from bottoming out , the dustcap will hit this before the coil hits the backplate.

    im sure Jacob will chime in to correct me where needed or if im way out :P

    I could be wrong, but I believe the main purpose is cooling. It helps dissipate more heat.

    Also the dust cap is not gonna stop anything, if it hits it then you will likely need a new dust cap.

    And I don't think that's even capable of happening, even with the extreme amount of travel those subs have, b/c of the design of the frame.

    Hopefully Jacob will clear this up, cause I could be dead wrong. But I don't think so.

    I was 50% correct haha

    cant remember where I have seen it or read it, but its been used before. replacing a dustcap is not very expensive, replacing a coil is a bit more costly so It sort of made sense in my head when I seen it. but thinking about it now, yes the new basket design would step the cone to far away for the dustcap to be in the range of hitting the pole piece. .

  11. Sundown "Big Motors" Comparison Pics

    in Sundown Audio - GREAT Amps/Subs! GREAT Customer Service!

    Posted · Edited by 1clio6

    Probably a stupid question but why do the newer designs have a pointed part in the center of the motor while the older ones are flat?

    its the extended pole piece, my recollection is that's its there to keep the coil centered when the coil leaves the gap because these are super high xmax motors, and also stop the coil from bottoming out , the dustcap will hit this before the coil hits the backplate.

    im sure Jacob will chime in to correct me where needed or if im way out :P

  17. 6 12" Sundown X series.

    in Sundown Audio - GREAT Amps/Subs! GREAT Customer Service!

    Posted · Edited by 1clio6

    Its absolutely silly brutal , im running 4 spl dynamics ice 3500ds at 0.33 ohm ,thats 2 amps strapped to 0.66. I got 7 batteries, 6 of them are hawker armasafe 44ah , they are little beasts , and the other is an nsb 90 under the bonnet. Im running 2 210amp alternators deregulated running at 14.7v daily and 15v when testing, these are massively underrated and clamp at about 270amp when they have been deregulated. I also have 8 runs of 0 gauge front to back. With the 6 kw in it now, the voltage doesnt budge, when it had the 14kw, it was dropping to about 12.5v full tilt. I do need more batteries so im looking into that atm.

    Its absolutely tearing the car apart.

    Ill post the scores up soon from the test format we use in the uk

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