Jump to content

maademperor

Members
  • Posts

    200
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by maademperor

  1. sorry to hear that, I've not heard of this "ICE" entity unitl now....

    Personally, I just need everyone to pay taxes and be available for military draft status, other than that, you can speak whatever you want and work as you like....oh and everyone needs to start beating thier kids again too...get some discipline back in this country.

    for you hippies: Beatin = spanking in my old man speech. NOT close fisted uppercut to a 7 year old jaw for spilling some milk.

  2. love my xfi

    I guess some of it depends on if you are just looking to casually listen to music on a basic computer speaker setup or if you are going for a great listening experience in games/music/movies and have a high end computer speaker setup (5.1 logitech/Klipsh) or if you are going to be running that sound out to an external reciever though...

  3. before you format, you need to determine if your xp disc has SP2 slipstreamed into it AND if your computer has SATA hard drives. the vanilla XP disc has no support for SATA controllers and will report no hard drives (at least it didnt used to, havent installed xp in awhile). If you have sata drives, google "slipstream xp service packs" and follow that to make your own XP disc, then try booting from and see if it sees your hard disc.

  4. dont know how to use a plasma cutter or air hammer (although the latter sounds simple enough). are these tools I could rent at home deopt?

    at any rate, I'll be hooking up with a buddy who's got a garage full of tools (place looks like a pawn shop) so I'll see what we can come up with. just wish I had someone elses car to try it on first :D

  5. more than likely you will have to cut the head of the bolt off and drill the bolt out ( try to use a bit just smaller than the bolts diameter) and then run a tap through the hole to clean out and rethread the hole. It is a pain in the ass, trust me. I broke the head off a bolt the other day from over tightening a small bolt with a wrench that was way to big for a 10mm. bolt. Could not feel the tension due to the leverage, had to get a left threaded bolt remover

    (kinda like a tap , also known as a easy -out ) to pull it out. But in your case you have some threads still holding the bolt in , and if you can't pry it out you will have to drill it out and re-tap it. If you can pry it out, you should still probably run a tap through it to repair the threads. I would recommend using a loc tite on the bolt when you do put the new bolt in. Use the loc-tite that is semi-permanent so that you can remove the bolt again later if need be...

    good luck man....

    thanks, my buddy also said much the same (especially the pain in the ass part)...I'm hoping the threads on the bolt itself are my problem and I wont have to re-tap it....

    Can you get a panel popper or anything under the head of the bolt? pry up then put your socket on it and take it out... only thing i can think.

    I tried getting a flat head screwdriver under there to do that but I'm afraid it was off level enough to prevent me from getting anywhere, I'll find a panel popper and see what that does too

    so its stripped and you're just trying to pull it out...why not try a somewhat strong magnet if you have one laying around

    lol, I thought of that over the winter but didnt have a magnet and figured I'd ask if there was something else anyone could suggest before I spent money/time finding a magnet

  6. Have someone push up from the bottom as you take it out from the top? I guess that is too easy of a solution?

    yeah, that was one of the first things I did, get on the ground and look for the bolt from underneath, but like I said, its not visible from underneath (I'd have to cut a hole in the metal of that area under the car to get to it)

  7. I use McAfee and have no issues, I'm rather defensive in my surfing though. its firewall also was much more effective than my old norton install (2004 I think it was) as it was able to see chatter on my network from torrents being downloaded on another machine and advise me it was blocking pings from them. I've used trend micro, norton, mcafee and avg and I like Mcafee the best right now. it doesnt randomly reduce my system to its knees when its real time scanning new/created files of large sizes, it effectively sees the contents of zipped files and even files that have had thier fomat messed with to disquise the actual contents.

    a 10/10? you'd want to go with either mcafee or norton IMO. They are both the first to react to new threats are able to be easily updated/run standalone if for some reason your connection is disabled.

  8. alpine type r subs give a nice bit of hit without breaking your wallet too. as for wiring, if you think you are going to end up with a lot anyway, why not just jump straight to 0/1 and save yourself the cost of installing it later? you might never reach the "need" but to have the comfort zone could be worth it to you...especially since its only like an extra $20 or so for 0/1 kit versus a 4 guage kit...knukonceptz is a good brand, with good service and shipping

    http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.c...allation%20Kits

  9. I can say this much about webroot: when it was just webroot spysweeper it was a free app (like spybot and adaware) and it was very effective for cleaning out spyware and malicious apps. I havent used it since it became a licensed app with a fee, but I figure if it was good enough for them to start charging, its probably worth owning now complete with AV function now too. various reviews seem to be consistent around a 7-8 out of 10, which means it will protect you well on a casual basis, if you tend to go to shady sites and download random apps via p2p or a lot of porn sites/every popup you see, then you'll be right back where you are (this goes for most AV apps really). depends on what kinda surfer you are I guess

  10. Okay, so I've got a probelm with a stripped bolt (the threads not the head). Its one of the 4 on my drivers side seat. I pulled the seats out to run wires and whatnot and somehow during the reinstall I managed to strip this one bolt. It turns freely in the socket and I cant back it out to save my life. I cant touch it from below the car to try and "push it" out and I cant get it to back out either. Any tools you guys can suggest that I might be able get ahold of to budge this thing? Since its not in tight, the seat shifts ever so slightly....

    I'm actually starting to wonder if the actual hole it goes into is damaged to but I cant see anything with the bolt in there.

  11. you didnt answer any of my questions. is it a windows password prompt or something else altogether (any names/logos being shown)? have you tried the ultimate boot cd? did you try any of the password combos mentioned in this thread? If this is a small family owned shop with no IT, then its unlikely you are on a domain. more likely its a workgroup, correct? if its a domain then you have a windows server nt4, 2000 AD or 2003 machine that you can use to change this guys password.

    you can also call the manufacturer of the computer and get them to describe what you have to do to clear the cmos if it is a bios password. sometimes you have to pull the battery and/or move a jumper/push a button on the mobo to clear it.

  12. I knew a white guy in high school who was barely 6ft and he could dunk with some pretty decent force...a black guy I also knew was at least 6-4 and had no hops, period. at all. I was shorter and heavier than him and could still out rebound. it aint all genetics :D

  13. this is all a little misleading...if you have to push ctrl-alt-del then it should be a windows password issue, in which case the ultimate boot cd will work to change the pw (safe mode + networking wont because you then have to login and since he doesn know the local administrator password he is out of luck there, that is of course unless you didnt try username of administrator and a blank password?).

    Since you say you are on a domain, ensure you are changing the log on to option to local computer if you are trying to login with administrator (you may have to click Options on the login screen to get it to show). Either way if you are a domain admin, you should be able to login to the domain with that account regardless of what the guy set the password to on the local machine.

    if it is a bios password you can either try pulling the cmos battery, wait 5 mins re-insert and it should have forgotten the password. its unlikely its a bios password as it would not support a username.

    are you perhaps running a third party app for security?

    are you in IT at your job? if not, call them.

  14. I assume there is no domain, just a work group? did you set an administrator password when you first installed windows? if so, just change the username to administrator and enter the pw. if you did not set an administrator password, then the password is actually blank and you can just enter administrator for the username and enter no password at all, just click ok.

    if that doesnt work you can google ubcd (ultimate boot cd) and make a bootatble disc from it, one of the utils on the disc is a password changing option. it will NOT let you see the current password though, just change it.

    if you dont want to do that either, you can re-install windows without formatting and it will wipe out the password but retian actual data. programs will have to be re-installed. of course it would be easier to find out who did it by waiting and finding out if anyone has been using the machine despite the password.

    all this is different if you are on a domain though. of course if you were on a domain you would be better equipped to deal with this (sign in as a domain admin and change the password of any local users).

×
×
  • Create New...