[4th order bandpass with passive radiators... can it be done]

well what do you think about the idea of what i was thinking. on paper does it work??? or is it a waste of time

[4th order bandpass with passive radiators... can it be done]

well see i dont wanna do an average 4th order and i think your right i think with a tuned PR is would in theory act as a 6th order and thats kinda what i am trying to achieve. but just wanna try something new i know that 6th orders are for more spl applications and i was thinking if i replaced the port with a passive radiator it would simulate the 6th order frequency responce while still retaining good sound quality and getting loud as shit. and pluss i have 2 g5 12s and 2 gtr passive radiators and i wanted to try something new.. im still thinking about all the math in it though with 2 12s like that what size should the front port area be. right now the specs are 1.5 for the rear sealed/ PR section and the common front chamber is 5.5 cubic feet with a 9x18" rectangular port is that too much volume and port area for 2 12s in a 4th/6th order bandpass

[4th order bandpass with passive radiators... can it be done]

so something like this that i made on sketchup this is a blow through 4th order bandpass that i created for my chevy truck the outside cutouts would be for the passive radiators and the inside ones would be for the subs. the sealed chambers are 1.63 cubic feet per side after sub and radiator displacement. the ported chamber is a common chamber with 5.58 cubic feet net with a 9x18x12 inch external port tuned to 50hz now where im confused is can i throw in that passive radiator and tune it down to about 30 hz and get that db boost in the 30 hz range while still geting the high spl at the 50 hz range from the front common port?? any one have any experiance with something like this

[4th order bandpass with passive radiators... can it be done]

okay so i have a crazy one for you guys. i have been thinking and what would happen if i build a 4th order bandpass for 2 boston acoustics g5 12s built the sealed section to 1.5 cubic foot per chamber and then a 5 cubic foot common ported chamber. then put a passive radiator on with each sealed sub and then tuned the passive radiator to 30 hz. then tune the actual 5 cube ported section to 50 hz. would that work. its just something i been thinking about for a few days and all the calculations worked out but i just want personal advice before i go for it

[crescendo ft1-se tweeters]

4 super tweeters paired up with one 8" mid and 2 6" mids from crescendo and they keep up beautifully i actually had to turn the gain down on the tweeter amp a little bit but they sound great. and thats 125 watts per pair at 4 ohms not each.

[american bass sq-8b]

why so many mids and highs?? just curious. what kind of sub system are you running that you need that much mids and highs to keep up with it.

[Is my Kenwood setup any good?]

i dont really think that those speaker and amp combo can keep up with a zx2500 just sayin

[crescendo ft1-se tweeters]

i agree run a pair on about 125 watts rms and you will be more than happy i have 4 of the FT1 tweeters on an active set up running the 8 ohm versions on my alpine mrv-f545 4 channel amp and it sounds beautiful

[want to go active but need help]

well i see your problem!!! i too am in the middle of setting up an active set up. for one you either need a head unit that is set up for running active or you need to make sure you can set your high pass filter on your amp to at least 2500 hz if not you cant really run active anyway. the only advice i can give you with that amp you have is sell the polks and get some crescendo PWX-6 or some JBL selenium 6" midranges, or even some power bass 4xl 6" mids would work great. and you wanna get rid of your passive crossovers anyway so this would be a better choice. if i were you i would get two crescendo FT1 super tweeter one for each door and 4 crescendo PWX-6s and you would be more than happy. run all 4 mids off of the rear channel with crossover set at 80hz with a 12db slope should be good. thats what im running and the the tweeters should be crossed over at about 3200hz with a 6db slope.

this is what im doing but you could easily mount everything behind the factory door panel

[what subs and amp do i need, how much power]

yeah i under stand what your saying.. and i dont mean like something you would see at sema or an auto show i just want something that would impress people at a local car show is what i meant. sorry for the miss understanding. and also i have heard focal and im definatly not the person who thinks they sound like kicker. and i also know true sound quality doesnt come out of ported encosures either. i know this. but i am going to be mounting the subs inverted in a custom fiberglass enclosure so you will see the motor structure. and to me the motor structure of the d6 is a piece of art. and when i say sound quality i dont mean a 25 thousand dollar system. i want the best sound quality i can get in a ported enclosure while still getting decently loud. or what you people call SQL

[what subs and amp do i need, how much power]

you're gonna need a high output alt and some batteries. just to let you know

edit: you've never used ssa or dc or aq, so theres no way to tell if your diamonds are better than them or not.

i have a mechman 270 amp alternator and a xs power 3400d battery and a my wires stinger 1/0.

and i never said diamond was better i just said diamond was what i like.. i want it to be show quality as well as great sound quality

[what subs and amp do i need, how much power]

Well go for the 2.4K setup considering that front stage.. but I'm just curious on why are you locked on those brands for sub/amp, not to say are bad stuff.

i guess im not locked on to those brands i just love the look and sound of the diamond audio subs and the jbl amp as well as the jbl amp being very efficient.. and i can get them pretty cheap as well.. and i know theres much better brands out there i have been looking at ssa icons and dc level 3 and audioque hdc3s too but i dont know what it is about diamond that keeps drawing me back i have just always liked them

[what subs and amp do i need, how much power]

to do what you want to do, youll also need a good eq you high and low pass all speakers other wise youll get cancleation

youll want a 12db slop

amp1

ch 1&2 high 70hz, low 200hz 12db slop ( single pwx 8" 4ohm p/ch @ 125rms ea)

ch 3&4 high 5k, 12db slop (4x ft1 8ohm p/ch @2ohm final 250rms, 62rms ea)

amp 2

ch 1&2 high 200hz, low 5k 12db slop (single pwx 6.5" 4ohm p/ch @ 125rms ea)

ch 3&4 high 200hz, low 5k 12db slop (2x pwx 6.5" 4ohm p/ch @ 2ohm final 125rms ea)

as for subs idd save, as if your suggesting it, you must want it, and if you dont get what you really want, youll end up redoing it again

i can do all of that on my amp and my sub i really dont need an eq for that. my deck has the 4 way active crossover built in with a 5 band parametric eq in the head unit and my amps have all built in elecrtonic crossovers but if thats not good enough what kind of eq should i get

but i do get why you say that

[what subs and amp do i need, how much power]

So i know im not really like everyone else on this forum im kinda building my system backwards. i have completed my mids and highs stage of my system

i currently have this set up

Alpine CDA-9887 head unit set on active

2 Alpine V12 MRV-F545 4 channel amps

2 crescendo PWX 8" mids

6 crescendo PWX 6" mids

6 crescendo ft1 super tweeters

Amp one will have one 8" mid on each of channels 1, and 2 wired to 4 ohms per channel crossed over at 80hz

mounted in door panels 250w rms total

will have 4 super tweeter on each of channels 3, and 4 wired to 2.67 ohms per channel crossed over at 3400hz

2 in each door panel, 2 in center consol, 415w rms total

Amp two will have one 6" mid on each of channels 1, and 2 wired into 4 ohms per channel crossed over at 100 hz

Mounted in custom kick panels 250w rms total

Will have two 6" mid on each of channels 3, and 4 wired into 2 ohms per channel crossed over at 100hz

mounted in door panels 500w rms total

all together thats about 1415 watts rms for my mids and highs. i knwo thats alot but i love the sound of loud as shit good quality mids and highs. now here comes the reall question

what about the bass i know i need it and more than that i want it im lacking it but how many watts do i need to keep up with my mids and highs

i was thinking two diamond audio d6 15's in a 7 cube box tuned to 33 hz on a JBL Gto14001 that would give me 1500w rms for my subs but is that really enough for that much mids and highs??

or should i try to save the money to get two diamond audio hex pro 15's and a JBL Gto24001. and make the same size and tuned box

and yes i have already decided on diamond audio for subs and the jbl gto amps. just need to know what you guys thing about my ideas??

[wanna go active with my set up!! HELP??]

i dont particurlaly want to use the graphic just got the deck and i was playing around with it a little just trying to check out all of the features of the deck...

soo just for shits and giggles what do you think about what my set up is going to be

Alpine cda-9887 head unit.

2 alpine v12 MRV-545 4 channel amps

8 power bass 4xl 6.5" mids.

2 Power bass 4xl 8" mids

4 crescendo 2" super tweeters

1 kicker KX2500.1

4 dual 4 ohm 15" subs not sure what brand yet looking for something with good xmax but only about 700 rms each im thinking some SSA GCON's would do the trick

also a mechman 270 amp alternator

and an xs power D3400 battery

so what do you all think of that set up

[wanna go active with my set up!! HELP??]

yeah i know how to use parametric eq and crossover and time correction and all that but everyone keeps saying there is a graqhic eq on my deck and i have still yet to find it

[wanna go active with my set up!! HELP??]

yeah the crossovers on the amp is really good though it does from like 40 hz to 4k hz or something like that

well thanks for the advice if any one else has advice too im all ears.. also how do i use the graphic eq on the head unit i have. i cant seem to find it

[wanna go active with my set up!! HELP??]

so hear me out then if i had two seperate 4 channel amps so thats 8 channels. on one 4 channel amp could i run 4 6" midranges on the front channel and 4 6" midranges on the rear channel. then on the second amp could i do 2 8" midranges on one channel and then 4 tweeters on the other channel?? and would 4 crescendo 2" super tweeters be enough to keep up with all the midranges???

there would end up being 1 8" midrange and two 6" mid range in each front door one 6" mid in the kick panel, and one 6" mid in the rear door. then either two or four tweeters in each front door depending on what impedance tweeters i get?? sound good

[wanna go active with my set up!! HELP??]

well i was hoping that i could use like 2 8" crescendo midranges and 6 6.5" crescendo mids and then a seperate amp for there super tweeters they have

[wanna go active with my set up!! HELP??]

so hi guys i just got an alpine CDA-9887 head unit and just first off i have to say its awesome.. but its kinda odd to use for a beginner. i have been into audio for a while now and have the basics of wiring and building enclosures but the tuning of amps and head units is still a little beyond me. for a sub amp i have a kicker kx 2500.1, i don't have subs yet. and also i am wanting do to an active set up and i heard this is the perfect head unit for doing that. i also have two older alpine MRV-f545 4 channel amps. so my question to all of you is what would be the best mids and his to run to keep up with the kicker 2500 where is the best placement for these speakers. and how do i tune my digital amp and head unit to accommodate this active set up. well thank you for all your time i appreciate any help that is given.

by the way i forgot to mention that i will be running two 15s on the 2500 just not sure which ones yet i was thinking fosgate power HX2' or some power T2's but i'm open to suggestions and also its a 2000 Cadillac escalade

[Alpine CDA-9887 tuning and more????]

so hi guys i just got an alpine CDA-9887 head unit and just first off i have to say its awesome.. but its kinda odd to use for a beginner. i have been into audio for a while now and have the basics of wiring and building enclosures but the tuning of amps and head units is still a little beyond me. for a sub amp i have a kicker kx 2500.1, i don't have subs yet. and also i am wanting do to an active set up and i heard this is the perfect head unit for doing that. i also have two older alpine MRV-f545 4 channel amps. so my question to all of you is what would be the best mids and his to run to keep up with the kicker 2500 where is the best placement for these speakers. and how do i tune my digital amp and head unit to accommodate this active set up. well thank you for all your time i appreciate any help that is given.

by the way i forgot to mention that i will be running two 15s on the 2500 just not sure which ones yet i was thinking fosgate power HX2' or some power T2's but i'm open to suggestions and also its a 2000 Cadillac escalade

[Looking for KICKER SX900.4]

hi there guys i am looking for a kicker SX900.4 to match up with the kicker kx2500.1 that i already have.. if any of you have one or knwo someone who does please let me know.

or a kicker KX850.4 either one would work

[SSA ZCON "can they hang"]

So my buddy an just got SSA Zcon 18" dual 2 ohm sub today and were trying to figure out the amp to get to power it. he already knows he wants crescendo but the question is do we match the subs rms rating with the BC2000.1 or do we go all out and get the bc3500.1 can the sub handle the 3800 watts or will we completely fry the sub.. were hoping we can get away with just setting the gain a little lower but what do you all think?? also do you guys have any advice for the best ported box design for that sub i cant fine any box specs. want it tuned to 30 hz maybe up to 33 hz but should we do slot port or multiple aero ports. and what shoud the net volume for the enclosure be? thanks for any help its all appreciated

[how are treo ssi subs]

any one have any experiance with treo audio?? good or bad?

[Is it possible to reduce vent mach without changing port?]

_{run 4 " in box flared aero ports}