[CC-1 not voltage matching?]

I read my manual for it and it seems like you got it however you should really set the gains with it at full pass. Then afterwards set it up with the cc-1 for normal use to adjust the x-overs. Thats how i think its getting messed up. I did that and even though my amps arent set anywhere near 40Hz for the sub stage it had fucked with the gain volume and everytime i adjusted the gain with my dd-1 it would change a bit if i were to completely disable the x-over. I always play with the gains FIRST then i do the x-overs. That way i can be assured the entire signal is clean and perfect before i chop parts of it off.

edit: i would honestly not use the -5db for this. You should do this to the master amp (in your case the 2 channels you want to use as "master") FIRST so that the amp is at its max output you want for that attenuation THEN you go to the 0db tones that are on the cc-1 as thats what its expecting. Set the amp and everything before it to full pass and follow the instructions for the manual to match the gains. That im willing to bet is whats fucking you up.

Oky doke ill try it. Thanks!

[CC-1 not voltage matching?]

Matching the gains of mulitiple amplifiers.

This procedure requires the CC-1 to be placed in a

special mode reserved for SPL competitors and

audiophiles.

1. Switch the CC-1 off by holding the OFF button

for 1 second. (This must be done to initalize

the program mode) Now switch CC-1 power on

by pressing the ON button. (Well obvious. Check)

2. Disconnect the harness to make sure there is no

signal being applied to the CC-1 and that the

Signal LED is NOT illuminated. (Check)

3. Press and hold the READ button for 3-5

seconds or until the Set LEDs start flashing.

Release Set button. CC-1 is now in

competition mode!! (Check.)

4. Next you need to connect the CC-1 to the

“Master” amplifier’s outputs. Use the included

harness to connect to amplifier’s outputs; Red to

speaker (+) and Black to battery ground. (Check. The harness was already wired up so all i had to do was plug in the rca's)

5. Set the source unit’s volume to zero. Select the

track on the CD that corresponds to the desired

frequency you wish to match gains at. If you

don’t know which frequency to use try 40 Hz

(track 10 Disc A) if it is a subwoofer amplifier, or

1 kHz (track 8 Disc if it is a full range

amplifier. Play track on repeat.(Check, however i used the 40 -5 track on the DD-1 disk. This couldnt make it have different voltages though because both channels are reading the same input.)

6. Continue by turning up the source unit volume

until you see the Signal LED illuminate green. If

the LED turns red, this indicates the volume is

too high. Turn volume down until LED remains

green. (Check)

7. When Signal LED remains Green, press the

READ button. The Blue Calibrated LED should

illuminate. (Check)

8. Now without touching any adjustments on

anything, connect the CC-1 to the output of the

next amplifier that you wish to match it’s gain to

the first amplifier. (Check)

9. The LEDs will indicate if the gain is too high or

too low compared to the “Master” amplifier. (Yeppers)

10. Adjust gain on the amplifier that the CC-1 is now

connected to until the Calibrated LED

illuminates. The amplifier’s gain is now matched

to the Master amplifier’s gain within +/- 0.05dB !! (Check)

After reading it 3 times now i still fail to realize what you're talking about Ray. If you know what i did wrong lemme know. Everything was textbook as far as these instructions go.

[CC-1 not voltage matching?]

If everything was done right, then there would NOT be a problem. LISTEN TO RAY. The guy has forgot more knowledge about car audio than the majority of people on here have at their best. Read each step, one at a time, then verify that you are doing EXACTLY what the instructions say.

Id listen to him if he told me what i did wrong. Ill list the instructions and check what i did.

[CC-1 not voltage matching?]

Then what am i missing?

[CC-1 not voltage matching?]

I re-read it and still not catching any errors. Everything was done right.

[CC-1 not voltage matching?]

Which is? Lol

[CC-1 not voltage matching?]

After all, it matches output. As long as both channels read the same signal, it should still match it.

[CC-1 not voltage matching?]

Well, after reading it I did everything it said except I played it at 40 -5 DB which shouldn't really matter. Ill do it again at 40hz but I'm sure the results will be the same.

[CC-1 not voltage matching?]

Idk where the manual is but I think d amore has it on their site. Ill check and see if I did it right then ill post again.

[CC-1 not voltage matching?]

Or 60. Can't remember lol

[CC-1 not voltage matching?]

Matched it on lpf set at 80hz

[CC-1 not voltage matching?]

Yeah its for subwoofers. 1&2 are bridged and 3&4 are bridged. Its my friends setup lol. There is a lpf on there as well.

[CC-1 not voltage matching?]

Well I used the cc-1 to gain match 2 channels on a 4 channel amplifier. There are 2 gain knobs on the amp. 1 for channel 1&2, and the other for 3&4. After using the cc-1 to gain match, one channel was at..... lets say 40 volts and the other that I was matching to was at 30. I can't remember the exact volts. I was using the 40 -5 DB track when doing this. Was I supposed to use another track or should I just use a volt meter to gain match? I Just trusted that the cc-1 was right and left it since its not a big deal if it was wrong.

Any help is appreciated, thanks.

[Final plan for wall build.]

If you know what your doing...yepp

And I have no idea what I'm doing. However, the area that the rear deck was will be reinforced so I'm sure it will be fine. There will be steel bars reinforcing the bottom of the rear window and bars reinforcing the sides.

[Final plan for wall build.]

maybe cut a peice of play wood just 3/4" shy of the width you need the top and mount the 2x4 to that then have some one hold it up while you slide the 2 side walls in place to hold the top up. basicaly build the top then hold it up and slide the sides in place and put it all together, if that makes any sence.

Yeah that kinda makes sense lol. Idk I guess ill figure it out when I start the build.

[Final plan for wall build.]

Iraggi? Oh noes!

Larry is saying he's waiting for pic's of the cut deck.

Lmao oh ok. Brain fart. Yep I got pretty much everything planned except how to attach the 2x4's to the roof. What should I use to glue it on?

[Final plan for wall build.]

3 alts?

And tuned in for cutting rear deck.

Yeah we are hoping for 3 alts. Iraggi is gonna borrow someones mustang to build me a custom bracket. And what do you mean tuned in for cutting the rear deck?

[Final plan for wall build.]

lol, dont break them in just bump em till they blow. so that everyone can learn from your mistake, he he.

i agree with breaking them in but for only about a full hour worth at 3/4's volume.

Yeah it wont be something ridiculous like breaking them in for 24 hours. It will just be for an hour or 2 depending on how stiff they are after. + It wont even be powered too much. If my little 100 watt home amp pushes it ok then i might just use that. If not, i got a quantum 800 watt amp ill throw on them for it.

[Final plan for wall build.]

Break em in?how can i say this in a nice way........oh ya.... youre silly

Lol. Well everyone has their own way of doing things. I would rather have the spiders loosened up when i put them in. Its just me though.

[Final plan for wall build.]

You can go full tilt on them in the wall. They will break themselves in.

Yeah but you know how it is. People say to break in subs before goin full tilt. Since it wont cost me anything to build a bench, i might as well. I got all the parts from previous builds to spare.

[Final plan for wall build.]

I'm also gonna be building a break in bench so I can break the subs in before they go into the wall. That way when I put it in, I can go full tilt on em!

[Final plan for wall build.]

Well, i'll be looking for the build log.

When you plan on starting?

Next Friday =). Should be fun!

[Final plan for wall build.]

IMO, 2 will louder than 3. UNLESS you cut out your entire rear deck to build the box big enough. You need 16.5 cubes 'minimum' after all displacements. That dude was running 2 amps per sub strapped at .35ohms with a smaller than ideal box.

Yes I will be cutting out the rear deck and then reinforcing the rear.

[Final plan for wall build.]

Also, it will be nice doing a huge build like this because I have nothing to rush for. I wont have the subs for a month so I can spend that whole month making a nice box. Even painting it and making it look good.

Edit: oh and fiberglassing components onto the 3rd baffle.

[Final plan for wall build.]

3 Warden 18s 2004 mustang - SMD Forum

Have fun with that.

Yep that's one of em. I read your whole build log a couple days ago and so I said screw it ill wall mine too.