JR2011bu
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Posts posted by JR2011bu
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damn maybe next time haha
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hands on, hands on, hands on. That is how you learn, books and reading can only do so much. After each time you do your own install, you find little things that make big things way easier to do and do them more effectively.
x2
Like chevyboy said, hands on is always the best way to learn and associate what you have read and seen. basicaly put a face to the name lol. Slow and steady always works, before you know it installs become muscle memory.
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PM'd lets work somethin out
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This thing is crazy loud, to this day i am still amazed at the power the SA series woofers can handle.. Props on your build it is truly a ground pounder..
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Man i can't believe what kind of damage this thing does... true carnage, mad props steve. All your work i have seen is crazy. I must have looked at the pic with the phone book about 10 times already in pure disbelieve haha
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thats a lot of goodies going into that truck lol almost wish it was going in my truck haha
x2 looks like someone had a late christmas... i wish i was this lucky every now and again lol
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I'm with rootxbeer easiest way to find out is to pull out woofer and see printed label. Sometimes coil impedance is engraved on coil itself.
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email coming your way...
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So i recently recieved my brand new Z v3 10" from my local sundown dealer, however im in need of a new amp that will push it to its limits safely and while staying on budget(which is so hard now-a-days).
So im thinking no more than 3500w rms of course, however im limited as far as budget right now. $450 is what i pretty much can do for now and i have been looking at a few products but just can't decide. So far i have looked at the crescendo bc2k(used), SAZ1500v1 and v2(used), skar audio1500.1d(new), audioqubed2200.1d, rockford t1500-1bd and bdcp, but just cant really seem to figure out what would be the best option as far as price and performance..
And no I am not trying to start a vs thread just want to know of any other options out there that do true rms for a decent price and performance.
The easy answer is just to save up and just get a bigger amp but it sucks having a new sub sit there and stare at you while it effortlessly handles the power you are giving it lol.
By the way it's currently in a 1.5ft^3 ported box tuned to 35htz powered by a BRZ1700.1d HiFonics amplifier
So any and all suggestions are welcome
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I have my 10" zv3 in a 1.5ft^3 box now and it gets nasty low, sounds amazing. I'm currently only throwing 1700w at it from a brutus BRZ1700 @ 1ohm, but will be upgrading soon i'm thinking 2500 but i might go 3500 if i have the cash to upgrade my electrical as well haha... it's time to start saving up
I forgot its a 1.5ft^3 ported box tuned down to 35htz for now..
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ddmtuning.com
x 2
very affordable and easy to install
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Not sure how much of a drop you should expect as every car's electrical system is different. Also every amp draws a different amount of current when pushed. For example: I have a kicker zx350.4 and a BRZ1700.1 and i sit around 14.4-.7 same as you do when i have this turned up i see voltage go as low as 13.9. I am about to do the big three and add a second batt as well. But from what i hear big three alone stiffens up your current flow quite a bit and of course im no expert this is just my $.02
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The battery iso is not a terrible idea, maybe unnecessary though batteries are not my strength. I guess my question for you is how many watts are you gonna be putting out realistically? The fuse will depend on that...
isolators are a terrible thing to install in your system. unless you plan on going to a fancy car show where you're going to play music for hours on end with your car off, then you dont need one.
isolators cut off your battery from getting charged by the alternator. thus draining the shit (and dropping the voltage like crazy) out of the battery. then once it drops down to like 11v or 10v or whatever, the isolator will switch the alt charge back on on the battery. alternators fucking hate charging dead batteries. they're made to keep them topped off. basically harming your alternator and shortening its life.
and not to mention the voltage drop from the uncharged battery will harm the amp, making it produce more heat and less power than it can.
The isolaters I have looked at allow charging but don't allow the battery to drain the other battery. Here's an example:
http://www.newmarpow...ntegrators.html
http://www.oreillyau...N0356&ppt=C0061
but again expensive and unnecessary...unless your bumpin' with the engine off.
Thank you everyone for the replies and suggestions. So I'm thinking this is what I'm gonna end up doing.
Bit three with a 250a fuse block all 1/0 gauge wire.
Second batt: one run of 1/0gauge from starter batt(+) to trunk batt(+), then ground the 2nd batt in trunk.
You could get away with a 150 amp fuse on 1700watts... but yea go with the 250 amp, it will give you extra room so you don't blow fuses on accident. Looks good to me!
I'll be workin on this tomorrow have to pick up some 1/0 gauge terminals so i don't have a crazy amount of ring terminals from wires hanging on to battery. After that i'll probably look into ordering a HO Alt but for now i have to hold off as my car is not my number one priority. Haha eveything i do goes through the boss(wifey) first lol so i'm not sure that 4-$600 on a HO Alt will sound that pleasant, being that i have only had this car about a year.. so yeah
And again thanks for all the replies im sure i might have figured this out but one thing is that i definitely would not have figured it out this fast haha
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Thank you everyone for the replies and suggestions. So I'm thinking this is what I'm gonna end up doing.
Bit three with a 250a fuse block all 1/0 gauge wire.
Second batt: one run of 1/0gauge from starter batt(+) to trunk batt(+), then ground the 2nd batt in trunk.
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As far as RMS watts around 1700 I would say. I'm running a hifonics hrs1700.1 mono and a kicker zx350.4 but I doubt that the brutus is actually doing 1700 so that's why I say 1700 total.
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I'm planning on doing the big three upgrade on my car tomorrow, so i went down to one of the local shops and asked the guy for some ANL fuses and fuse holders. He says what are you needing these for. I explained.......etc etc...
He said that i should run a battery isoaltor so that my batteries dont drain each other.
Is this a good idea? I have read that they are good but only if you plan on playing stereo while car off. Which i hardly do.
Also should i run second battery(pos) straight to alt(pos) and ground battery in trunk, or run starter battery(pos) to trunk battery(pos) and ground there?
or run starter battery(pos) to trunk battery(pos) and start batt(neg) to trunk batt(neg)?
so many options out there, so many different ways i have seen people do there big three, but which is safest?
I'm running stock alt for now its a 120a alt i believe but i haven't checked. I know there are several threads here with answers but just haven't found something that sounds too reassuring. This is my daily driver and i can't really take too many risks as i got rid of my second car.
I'll be using the stock battery, and sitting a Kinetik HC1800 in the trunk as the second battery and of course all wiring will be 1/0 gauge wire. Also what amp fuse should i use 150 or 250? all info is appreciated.
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Are you running an external amp for the 6.5's or just using the wires from the factory amp? I ran my 6.5's in my malibu using the factory amp and had a weird whine when i turned on the car, then switched over to external aftermarket amp and problem was gone, not sure of the reason it just did. I would just leave the factory amp alone and run an external just my $.02.
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So i recently ordered a 10" ZV3 from the local Sundown Rep here in the NorthWest. He says that he was told the sub takes 15 days to be built and approximately 6 days to ship. Is this correct, does it really take 15 days to build the sub, i understand that i'm not the only person ordering these subs but that just seems a bit too much for me. Just want to hear what you all have to say
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So the issue started the other day, I was driving down the free way and I had to get around a semi so I floored it. My volume was up at around 32, my RPM's flew up to about 6500 and boom my highs were out. I turned it down and they played fine but amp would go in and out of protect at volumes over 29.
What would you all suggest I check first my speakers don't sound blown but I will check on them tomorrow morning once I wake up. It's a kicker zx350.4 running a pair of infinnity kappa 692.2i I believe.
Would my car excreting high voltage cause the amp to go into protect?
But would it not have blown the fuse on the amp?
If it did why would my amp come back on and off, wouldn't it just stay off?
Please help me it might be a bit late for some but all advice is appreciated thanks.
I have 0 gauge wire running from front to a 2f cap then a + line going into a fused distribution block one to my sub amp, and one to the kicker. Both Amps and cap grounded separately.
Blown Tweeters After One Day...
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted
Ha beat me to the punch, as i was reading this I was wondering if by normal you meant amp output to speaker input + speaker output from deck(stock wires) also still attatched...
The way I use mine as I have the same amp(ZX350.4) is just wires from amp to speakers and stock wiring unplugged so that extra 35w from deck isn't being sent to the speakers also lol.. I say this because i also blew a pair of Kappa 6x9's same model well except for size but also 2ohm it sounded nice until one just went out haha. And mine are in for repair/exchange now..
Anyways good thing you figures it out before your other ones got in and the same happened again..