purplesyrup
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Posts posted by purplesyrup
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no wonder you got the responses that you did. The original question was " How many layers of glass would you use to reinforce 3/4 inch mdf to make it strong enough to eliminate any flex or vibration?" now we see that your using a round barrel.
asking how many layers to use to reinforce 3/4 mdf which is flat is not even relevant to what you are doing. Everyone suggested alternatives that would have been appropriate based on the question you asked.
I know thats why I went a head and cleared it up.
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that barrel is going inside your trunk? lol this will be interesting. take lots of pics for a build log.
I unlocked the youtube videos, and the build log is going up in the members rides section now titled "bass tasting"
And yes its going in the trunk, it sits in the spare tire well and will be angled back.
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hahahaha, your making a barrel into a speaker enclosure? thats pretty funny. i wonder how well the side of the barrel will hold its seal when its being vibrated.
how do you put the bottom on once your done?
All the boards are gorilla glued then fiberglassed together. the steel rings will stop any outward flex completely. they are strong as hell to begin with, gotta remember this is made out of 3/4 solid oak, not mdf or layers, the baffle is 1.5" thick solid oak with some layers of glass. I mentioned MDF in my first post just to get an idea of what it would take, then when I applied that to solid oak it would for sure be as strong as possible.. the bottom will be screwed into each board then properly fiberglassed in to make the barrel and bottom one. I've got nearly 5 nights worth of trial and error paperwork on the build, not something you can just slap together. took me 2 nights to figure out how to port was going to work due to space issues. after all displacement I will be at 2.9 cu ft. with 39.25 square inches of port in an enclosure that is as solid as concrete, proper vent mach for the best "loading" posible due to the angle and alignment the box will be positioned.
I'm a wine rep, i need something practical for my job so here it is. the trunk will be furnished with earthquake proof wine racks and a tile floor. I have to have wine with me everywhere I go.
theres much more to it than what i've explained, but its going to be interesting, so stay tuned. completion all depends on how long it takes for DD to get the sub here.
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No one has avoided your question. Notice the first word in my response. I get it, you know what you're doing. Good luck
Thanks, its been a fun, yet challenging build, can't wait to share it with everyone.
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How many layers of glass would you use to reinforce 3/4 inch mdf to make it strong enough to eliminate any flex or vibration?
None. If your enclosure is flexxing that bad, you built it incorrectly. And I'm trying to decide if you use the term fiberglassing correctly or loosely...what do your three layers consist of? Too often people are pouring resin over and thinking this is somehow strengthening the enclosure. Skittles is pretty much all.over this one.
Everyone is really going around the actual question I asked. I'm purposly not telling you why i'm doing the things im doing. Opinions or guidance on box building is not needed here.
I just wanted to know the answer to the question.
My enclosure is not flexing, there is not even a sub mounted in it or a bottom on it. The reason i'm doing what i'm doing is to make this enclosure as strong as possible. My fiberglass layers consist of woven fiberglass cloth. I cut the cloth into 4 inch strips and resined around the inside enclosure horizontally slightly overlapping each other. then once set up and tacky added 4" strips vertically slightly overlapping, then another layer added horizontally,.again slightly overlapping. There was no "just pour it in there involved. And I layed the glass in the strongest pattern I found through research.
I was just trying to figure out what you guys would do to mdf to make it perform better in a high pressure situation, I want this enclosure to perform as the sub is mounted in a concrete box, its pretty much there.
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i dont think you understand where some items are strong and where they are weak. a metal band wont do anything over the long spans across the box. it will only put pressure on the edges. try making a 3 layer strip of fiberglass as long as the longest panel in your box. see how much it bends. i had the same idea when i was starting to get into audio. ive been there, i know. keep it simple and just put in a brace. a simple dowel will do as much if not more than all that fiberglass. it doesnt have to be as complex as you think.
I agree steel bands would not work on a box.
I'm not working on a simple project.
I was just trying to find some sort of answer to my original question.
From random internet research i've found that I will be ok with the 3 thick layers I've applied.
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Bolt box to the metal ?
In a way yes
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Through research found that people that fiberglass from scratch use 6 layers for a rigid fiberglass only enclosure, do you guys think I should keep going or stop at 3?
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Overbuilt is the goal, the outside of the enclosure has 1.75" wide x 1/8" steel bands, 3 of them, which will stop outward flex, i'm using the fiberglass to prevent inward flex.
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Doubling up on wood is not an option, I've already completed 3 thick layers of glass on the internal walls, my question is, how many more should I go. I skipped rope because I need the interior walls to be smooth. The baffle is complete, 1.5 inches sandwiched with 1/4 inch of glass. Sub is a dd9512I
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How many layers of glass would you use to reinforce 3/4 inch mdf to make it strong enough to eliminate any flex or vibration?
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Is she bangin? Maybe she gave you some thump because she wants thumped,
Regardless sounds like you got got a deal
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With a 31 hz tune its very likely the sub will have a hard time hitting those tones in common music, play some test tones, I bet the output falls off pretty quick after you pass 45hz.
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Sounds in relation to the vent mach thread I posted, how many square inches of port do you have, and what subs are you running. if your vent mach is to low, the sound waves can still be leaving the box while the sub has already started playing another sound
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Sweet nice work, what's your opinion on how it turned out, I was waiting for a seat at a restuarant and didn't watch the whole vid or I would have known that. I did a TL on a 4" certain Vega component speaker, ran it in the house off 100 Watts and not kidding, shook the house on 40 hz tones, mounted it in a 6 foot long 4" pvc pipe.
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Its that a transmission line enclosure?
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Sounds like your having some cancellation issues. Does it do it with the door opened and closed? I built an odd configuration on some 10s once and they would do the same thing, certain frequencies would disappear, then when you popped the trunk open everything was fine, then shut it and the sound waves disappeared on certain notes.
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Can you post some pics if the install, how many square inches of port do you have.
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it was either the -10db or -15db track. i did it just like steve showed it in the video using the dd-1 with a line driver so i think it was -15db. funny thing is i metered today with an audiocontrol meter and i know their a little off of a term lab but i did a 142.6db @ 50hz sealed on the dash and i knew something didnt seem right. but i felt a little better when we metered a dakota with 4 audiopipe 15s in a wall thats a sealed box on a 3000watt amp and he did a 139db @ 45hz sealed on dash.
Some of the worst scores ive seen come from walls with to many subs in sealed boxes.
I knew a dude that put 8 12"s in a wall in sealed seperate chamber boxes, he couldn't break 148-149 db. Thats not right.
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ports are jacked
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It will be purely a learning experience as you go, all walls are very different from eachother, recently I have found gorilla glue does wonders, expensive, but if you need something to hold its the way to go, havn't seen many people use it, heres the cons, amazing bonding power, it swells as it dries, filling in any imperfections, now I will also mention I have never constructed a wall from inside the car, but if I was, thats what I would use. In the past i've used it to fix where liquid nails failed, and it fixed the problem completely. Example, internal braces broke away from the screws, cause the hole baffle to start seperating from the box, gorilla glued it up, and re screwed, problem fixed.
All I can say is go one board at a time, be sure everything is lined up perfectly, let cure, then continue to the next, take your time, do it right. any minor air leak or flimsy board can make your SPL suffer. I had a 4db loss from what seemed to be a minor air leak.
you can make some temorairy braces to hold things in place, use a nail gun to hold things together and in place with the braces. they can be removed easily, and the very small holes can be filled in.
hope any of these suggestiions help.
And good luck on the build
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seen those before, they would surely be affected by a moving car, for sure with the windows down.
Its still pretty badass though
fiberglass reinforcement
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
For bracing, there will be a 10" wide 3/4" board that the pvc is connected to almost dead center from the middle of the baffle to the center of the bottom. The largest area without an internal brace is 14", which has a steel ring on the outside and 3 phatty layers of glass on the inside.