tvcincy
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Posts posted by tvcincy
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i know imma forum noob... but i got the same amplifier.. ive got the big 3 done with knu flex 0ga. and a kinetik hc2000 under the hood. stock alt. no extra batts. and i dont see under 12.5 except on notes right at the LPF >65hz then it starts to get low... but my lights dont dim, electrical is fine.. IS THAT WHAT I WANT!! no... i want a better alternator, i want 2 more kinetiks. but thats about 1500$. just giving you my situation and some possible solutions that wont kill the wallet.. knu flex 0 gauge 4 dollars a foot i bought 12ft. the hc 2k you can get on audiosavings for like 280$. 2 runs of 0 gauge wont do anything if the juice isnt flowing either. start with under the hood battery and big 3..
what do you think about the amp? are you happy with it? i have done the big 3 but i used 1/0 gauge from home depot electrical wire. i used 1/0 welding cable to run from my battery to my amp. a guy who owns a local car audio shop took a look at the wire i used to run my big 3 and said it's no good b/c there are only like 8 big strands instead of hundreds of strands as there is in audio and welding cable. so i am going to redo my big 3 with 1/0 welding cable.
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I ran a 3500 on my stock 140a alt and never went below 13.2v at the inputs on the amp.
Measure your voltage at the alternator, then measure again at the amp and see how much voltage drop you are getting.
when you say 3500, are you talking about a battery?
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Thats a lot of amp for a stock electrical system... more batteries are only a band aid as your alt wont be able to keep up with the draw and you will drain the extra batteries faster than you can recharge them.. so eventually after playing loud for a bit the voltage is gonna drop bad anyway.
would you recommend getting a h/o alternator instead?
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you need to upgrade the front battery and add a battery in the rear if you just put another batt in that back it should help and you should add another run of 1/0 just my .02
Ok, what would the other run of 1/0 be for? The ground going to the back battery?
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Hello, I have a Cresendo BC2000d and my headlight dim bad when it really hits. I'm wondering what else I need to run it properly. I have upgraded the big 3 with 1/0 wire and have the amp hooked up to 1/0 wire. I have stock battery and stock 130 amp alternator. The amp runs at 14.8 volts idle but when it hits hard notes I know the voltage drops because my lights dim BAD. What should I do to fix this? Just upgrade to a better battery? Add another battery? Upgrade alternator? Thanks
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Where you using bass boost on one and not the other, did you check to see if they had the same LPF settings, maybe you have the new one crossed over way lower.
In my case I was using bass boost with my PPI and not my Crescendo. The difference is with Crescendo the bass boost frequency is 45 or 48 hz, I can't remember which. On thee PPI there is a unique feature which allows you to boost the bass at 4 different frequencies - 30hz, 36hz, 44hz, and 60hz. I had it on 30hz boost. It stink that you can't do that with newer amps, pick the boosting frequency. But the PPI seemed like it was louder and sounded better although the Crescendo was much more powerful.
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So a while back I swapped out my Soundstream DTR1.900D for a higher watt amp that is supposed to be running 1000w at 2ohms as apposed to the 600wrms or the soundstream.
I am not going to mention the name just to avoid the potential issues of the VS thread rule but lets just say it is an amp that has been clamped doing what it says it will do.....and that is 1500 at 1ohm and 1000w at 2ohms....
Now the DTR is 600 at the load I got it at while the other is at 1000w, the sound difference is night and day.
For some reference....while building a more efficient box for the 15 I felt I should have some fun and free air it a little, just for kicks I gained it a few degrees from full gain for a few seconds. I only did this because I felt it wasnt running it very hard and no bottoming was heard, and this was on 1000wrms?!?!
I didnt free air it on my soundstream but after having the sub in the box I went out and did a test listen, finding the new amp to be...uhhh....not so loud I threw the DTR back on it...barely any gain at all and it was already just as loud... having like 240 degrees of knob, maybe like 90 was enough to bottom out the sub..It scared the piss out of me not expecting it so I gained it way back down.....
someone explain to me why this amp is louder but deffinately not as powerful..
I'm in the same boat as you. I have 2 12" Kicker CVX dual 4 ohm and I did have them hooked up to a PPI PC21400 bridged at 4 ohms running 1400 watts. It was loud. I wanted more power so I bough a Crescendo BC2000d and wired my subs down to 1 ohm. So you have 1400 watts out of PPI (probably more) vs. 2400 watts out of the Crescendo.I swear the PPI sounds better and louder. Is it because the PPI is a class AB amplifier? Maybe someone could help me out with understanding this..
Tony
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Nothing here
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dang where did you get that thing? how old is it? looks ancient....
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try re-posting that pic again please
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oh, no no. dont use a knob from another amp. ive heard of amps smoking just because of that. others claimed that to not be possible but why ever risk it?
the remote gain knob will only cut "power". it never adds. so 100% on the remote = whatever the gain at the amp is set to.
so i pointed out some smaller problems with your setup and they should be addressed regardless. but it sounds like this knob is your main problem.
thanks skittles. i typed that wrong, i was using a bass remote knob previously with my ppi amp. i am not using the ppi remote bass knob with the crescendo. but you did clarify what the knob does now and how it should be set and used. what about this phase setting? i have never seen this on an amp before. and like you said i think, should i keep the bass boost on 0?
thanks
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it SHOULD be a remote gain. i would be very much surprised if they started using remote bass boost.
Ok. My previous amp (PPI) has a remote bass boost know at a certain chosen frequency. I was using that knob with the crescendo as a bass boost knob. so does the remote knob override the settings on the actual amp?
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WHAT??? no, dude... no. and you don't need to turn the sub level up any on a pioneer. i have always left mine at 0. alpines you need to turn all the way up.the 4 gauge doesnt help any. and you would actually need 2/0 welding cable to roughly equal 1/0 car audio wire. turn all bass boosts off or all the way down on both radio and amp. if there is a sub volume option on the radio, turn it all the way up. and if using the remote knob, turn it all the way up as well.
you will probably not get the full 2250 from the amp with the wire you are currently using but you should possibly have enough to move the subs some. just set it to the maximum non clipping setting until you get better wire.
adjust your subsonic just below the tuning frequency of your box. it's there to protect your subs, use it.
put bass boost to 0. it might be boosting a different frequency than 40hz. so when you test at 40hz, you get a good set point. but then when you play music that has content where the bass boost has boosted, you get clipping.
is the remote gain all the way up when you tune?
turn the LPF down to around 80hz. thats more preference but it will help with clipping a little bit.
oh, and yes, that power wire is definitely hurting you. just to test it though, play a tone and turn it up to be just shy of clipping and then measure input voltage at the amp.
I'm a little confused on the remote knob. The manual says it's a bass boost/remote gain. So which one is it? And thanks for all the input guys....
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which head unit do you have? may try to turn the volume down some and try again. and are you using 1/0 wire?
what are the EQ settings at the HU set to? are you using bass boost? what are your filters set to on the amp?
i have a pioneer avh-p3400bh. i have 1/0 wire for my big 3 but unfortunately i have cheap dB link 4 gauge wire going to the new Crescendo. it doesn't even look copper. i just ordered some 1/0 welding cable i'm going to run instead. do you think that is the problem?
i have the bass boost set about half way when i was setting the voltage. head unit has equalizer and the lower frequencies are at like +2 db. Have the LPF to about 125htz. subsonic i didn't touch and phase setting i didn't touch.
i just took an ohm reading and i do have them wired at 1 ohm. the multimeter read exatcly 1. so that narrows problem down.
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it should be plenty for the subs. how did you set the voltage on the amp? test tone without speakers attached?
yes, i used a cd quality test tone at 40htz -5db. Turned hu up to 30/40 and then set gain. i set to 48 volts but it reads it's clipping like crazy. i had to turn down to 38 volts. if i have them wired correctly at 1 ohm, that's roughly 1500 watts. i don't know whats going on man
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Like this.
yep, i looked there. that's how i have it. the black and red solid and the black and red dotted terminals should matter. they should all be connected together. i thought this amp would pound these speakers.
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if its 1 sub and is dual 4 like you say, then its wired to 2 ohms. which will give you about 1100 watts at most
do you have 2 cvxs that you are trying to hook up together? or is it just one?
sorry, i have two 12"'s . dual 4 ohms voice coil.
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Hello, I just got my Crescendo BC2000d amp and hooked it up to my Kicker CVX dual 4 ohm voice coils. I think I have it at 1 ohm but I'm not sure. I had a PPI PC21400 that seemed to play them louder at 4 ohms. Here is what I have done:
On the subs I have a wire going from positive to positive and negative to negative on both speakers. It's looks like an X on the back of the speakers magnet. From the amp, it had 4 terminals but I am only using two, a neg. and pos. I ran the negative wire from the amp to the negative terminal on the first speaker as well as the positive. Then I just took two wires and ran them from the positive on the first speaker terminal to the positive on the second speaker terminal. same with the negative. this should be parallel wiring right? 1 ohm?
Then I took a multimeter to set the gain. i am running 14.8 stable but I used 2250 X 1ohm and took the square root. so I got 47.4 volts. I set the amp to this but the bass boost terminal says its clipping at this setting. I'm totally confused. I thought it would be waaaay louder. I'm thinking I did something wrong. Can anyone please help me? One guy said that amp should kill those CVX's and they weren't flexing like that
Thanks
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It´s any to see, only the beer´s and pizza´s are missing. http://www.stevemead...big-3-tutorial/
everything you need to know above man
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Where could I buy one of those clamps?
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Hello, I recently upgraded the big 3 for my 2008 Chevy impala. It increased the voltage from 12.2 at my amp to 15.2 at my amp with the car running. I noticed the past couple of days I get a warning message in the instrument panel saying battery saver active. My headlights are still dimming bad. I have stock battery and alternator. I used 1/0 wire in the big 3. I do have shitty dB link 4 gauge cable running to my subwoofer amp which is a PPI PC21400. I have an old Sony 400 watt 4 channel running highs.
I read that 05' Impala's have a sensor that turns this feature on that keeps the alternator around 13 volts. I'm not sure though. Just something I read. Does anyone have any input or experience on this? Any recommendations? I appreciate any help. I know I can always count on SMD members.
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thanks for the responses. I took both before and after readings with the engine on. this is not the voltage when it's hitting hard bass. it's just at an idle volume. it seemed really high which is why I ask. I have taken readings multiple times. I have an old PPI PC21400 and an old Sony XM-754HX. Both of them read 15.2. I didn't see any voltage specs in the PPI owners manual.
I was looking at getting a Crescendo BD2000d because I have been given multiple referrals to get this amp. I know that it does good at 13volts +.
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Can't justify spending $100 on wire? Wire is just as important as anything else in a system.
Do the big 3 in 1/0 welding...and maybe use 2 awg welding for power/ground (you could get 1/0 and trim it til it fits). I say welding cable because it is typically cheaper and is 100% ofc.
Good wire is well worth the money. Look up coppercableman on ebay. I use his wire and powerwerx.com
this member already said it. exactly what i do now. sorry i didn't see you post before i wrote mine. : /
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search online for 1/0 welding cable. it's waaaaay cheaper than these audio companies that want way to much for their product. you can get good 1/0 cable that is flexible for ~ $2.84/ft.
i went to sonic electronix and bought the audio cable but after doing my big 3 with 1/0 stranded copper that I got from home depot, and 1/0 welding cable I'll never get ripped off buying that stuff again. definitely look around.
Like this.
Proper BC2000d Set up
in Amplifiers
Posted
Ok, I will do that. I was told I need to get an isolator and a capacitor. does this sound right?