b-dubs89
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Posts posted by b-dubs89
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so they cleared the code and it come back again , yes?
check the exhaust pipe for leaks or holes , if your pipe has a leak that can alter your exhaust flow and alter the reading of your o2 sensor .
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I bet you have a hole some where along the exhaust and I bet its right where the hing is. so turn the car on and feel around it on top as you can see the rest.
also you light does not have to come on for it to be having a problem. get an emmision test done on it and see what it says
that's a good point , do you have any exhaust leaks , that could also cause your problem
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i don't think that is very likely , cam sensors are sensitive like that but o2 sensors not so much , what happens to o2 sensors a lot is getting contaminated with carbon and ash, o2 sensors work by reacting to the exhaust flow and produce a small voltage as a result of the exhaust gases . you can actually test an o2 sensor with a volt meter
have you cleared the code yet ? if so did it register the code again
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if its easy to yank out your alt , go get it tested , throw a charger on your bat
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if you got an accurate reading of 8 volts from your battery that is probably not enough for the computer to operate or any other systems .one way i test an alternator as far as working or not is get it running and carefully disconnect the battery if the engine dies after you disconnect the battery the alt is not charging and the engine and everything was running off the batt
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have you checked your voltage through out this to make sure the batts aren't dead somehow
check for blown fuses in the fuse box under the hood
already did bro, i checked all the main ones. they all looked fine
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check for blown fuses in the fuse box under the hood
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fukin funny
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have to wonder how something like this might sound running off a tuba amp
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check battery connections
test for voltage at fuse and relay box , check voltage at starter
last time i seen this it was just a bad connection at the batt
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^^ Seafoam for the win. It'll work miracles. Putting some in a spray can and blowing it into the intake might help as well.
^^ Seafoam for the win. It'll work miracles. Putting some in a spray can and blowing it into the intake might help as well.
sea foam in the intake is kind of risky for catalytic converters and o2 sensors , i think if a guy wants to clean an intake tearing down is probably the best way to do it . a friend of mine bought an expedition and had a code for one cylinder not firing off good and a month of sea in the gas tank corrected that and made it run all around better .
here's another fuel additive/cleaner i found that i like as much as seafoam , it works pretty good
http://mystarbrite.com/startron/
not sure if the op is aware but some places have shitty gas that will make a vehicle miss , stall ,start hard,die coasting to a stop sign , like caseys for one , i have seen friends cars run like shit on caseys gas and experienced it with my vehicles as well
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bad or cloged injectors definetly could cause some of your problems , if your injectors are working that bad 1 course of fuel injector cleaner probably won't cut it , i would do 2-4 courses of sea foam in the gas tank to try and clean these injectors
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i think you go through more oil than you should , my experience is about 1 quart by the time due for an oil change in an engine that don't otherwise consume oil . sounds to me like you may be due for a re-ring or complete overhaul . could re-ring only but for the work to get that far you would be wise do a complete overhaul being that far in .
in the mean time you could probably slow you oil consumption alot with lucas oil stabilizer , i have owned many high mile gm vehicles and it always slows or stops oil consumption for me .
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does it consume oil ? what is your gas milage like , does it consume coolant ?
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i have a tablesaw and it's not big enough to cut most pieces for a box , dollar for dollar a circular saw and a rip guide is the way to go unless you can get a tablesaw with a biggg table .rf has a $30 circle jig for router right now , that's about the best deal i have found for one
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i wouldn't be too quick to buy any parts if i were you . i have had a number of fuel injected cars that will have a code once in a while for no apparent reason , all it takes is one of many parts to read or perform slightly off to register a check engine light . i had a 97 buick century that would register a code for insufficient flow on the egr once a month , was the egr valve bad , no , was the egr circuit clogged , no i checked it all . also had a 95 dakota and every time i would drive 45 mph in top gear putting around in the country with a light foot it would register a code that turned out to be nothing .
resetting the obd is a good first step at solving this , it you get the same code again soon chance are you do have a problem
heat shields are a likely source of a rattle ,but so is a bad cat
my opinion is that your cat is a possibility , i would also think that the o2 sensor that triggered your code could be a possibility of your problem as well i think there is a good chance that the o2 sensor in question may be full of soot or carbon , chances are if you were to try and remove it to look at it that doing so would ruin it as they tend to be stubborn and tuff to get out , even with the correct socket made for o2 sensors .
if you want to and plan on solving your own mechanical problems i would buy a service manual for your vehicle , and not a chiltons manual
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heres the $9 focal midbass for you
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=299-155
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if your set up is smashing the lows pretty well , maybe getting some midbass drivers would be a better solution to your problem , i have had some alpine type r's and a rockford t1 15" and they both smashed the lows but had no midbass really .
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i am in the same boat as you with learning about box design , there are many people on smd that will tell you a ported box with good design and tuning can sound awsome , but every ported box i have built has been peaky somewhere through out the range and i didn't much like any of my ported boxes i have built as opposed to a sealed box for the same woofer . the link i added is for a port calulator i had found a while back not to sure how right on this is but it is fun to play with
http://www.mobileinformationlabs.com/HowTo-1Woofer-Box-CAL%20Port%20lenth%201.htm
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sounds like you are in a shitty place right now , the good news is things will get better .i wouldn't stop school if i were you the sooner you get through school the sooner you should earn more . your fiance' give her time , space if she wants , when the time is right TALK TO HER , equally important LISTEN . as for your housing situation , have looked to see if there is any income based housing available ? if you come up with nothing on the housing thing , go camping . not joking ether , an ex girlfriend got me evicted and i couldn't afford for a few months to pay deposit and first and last months rent to get in another place so i bought a tent and put my stuff in storage and camped for a few months , and it was late march in minnesota . it kinda sucked but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do . hope something good happens for you
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i seen those looking through feebay , although i am not really familiar with the audioque's they look like some beefy tens
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look at replacing your ram board(s) in addition to some of the things djcrush recommended if you want to stick with what you have . the link i posted sells memory products and can scan your computer and tell you what will work , once you figure out what you need you can look elsewhere for better deals on ram . it was just a year ago i was looking at fixing improving my old computer and decided not to because it had a 32 bit system . got a toshiba satelite with 320 g hard drive and 4 g ram for like 268 at best buy instead of fixing my old computer, which has a 64 bit version of windows 7 , i think more computers are running 64 bit systems now . as for older computers the problem with 32 bit system is not being able to get one of the later windows updates and other software due to compatibility
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underground utility work can pay ok for lust being a laborer , make more if you can run equipment . lot of times being a grunt worker for underground utility contractor you are spotting for the guy running the excavator or finding other utilities with the jet vac . pretty safe job as long as you work for someone with there head on straight
truck driving can pay as well , there's truck jobs where you are home every night
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Help please...
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Posted
my opinion is the cca could be a problem