b-dubs89
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Posts posted by b-dubs89
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whoever holds the title might be able to sell it.
that may be true but the lien holder owns equally with the registered owner .that being said if the loan is not paid the lien holder can repo it or get a duplicate title and report it stolen if you stay ahead of the repo man . or least that's how it works in minnesota.
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i would walk away . if there is a lien on the bike and they don't pay the note the lien holder will get the bike one way or another and you're only action will be to sue the guy who sold it to you , as it would be a civil matter and you likely won't get paid if you sue him so save your self a bunch of grief and bull and keep looking .
sounds like a bad deal all around
and even if this guy has honor and will do the right thing , nobody can guarantee that he won't die or get in trouble or something before you get a title .
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if you liked the p3's your budy got i say go for them a pair of 12's new on ebay for 279
hifonics brutus amp for 200
sell what you got or just hang on to it .you got options on your bugdet though , i would just move on from the kicker . maybe put your kicker gear in your second vehicle that you don't drive as much ?
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the way i like to use a eq is cut frequencies and never boost .i don't like using eq's very much alot of times cutting or boosting 1 frequency creates a new problem frequency . my favorite eq i have used was in a vintage toshiba stereo receiver it was a 2 band parametric eq , sort of like alpine's 2 band eq's , but worked a lot better .
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i'm reading this and it kind of sounds like where i was with my last computer . i think it had a worm ? tried combo fix and didn't get it solved . thought maybe i could learn and figure it out but fixing software issues with computers is over my head .
good luck man . if you get it figured out , get a good antivirus program if you don't have 1. buying antivirus is cheaper than paying a computer tech to solve it .
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maybe because the wax ate through the clearcoat..
does that really happen ?
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body shops will do the color sanding and buffing , a freind of mine had a car done a few years ago along with a couple small body repairs and it was like $600 .color sanding would make it look like glass , but really just a buff would clean it up nice .an auto detailer i used to work for around here will buff a car , surpised none of the auto detailers you talked to offered to buff and wax
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i have been sort of curious as to how the type r subs would be with type r mids and highs as a system .
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wet sand , buff , and then wax . i think the wet sanding and buffing is also refered to as color sanding , it really flattens out the paint job and smoothes things out takes care of orange peel and other issues wet sand and buff usually makes a paint job look better than new , so long as all the paint is there and you don't have any deep scrathes . it is a lot of work and very easy to fuck up due the shapes of body panels and sharp edges want to burn through the paint if you don't finess the buffer or stay away from the edges while sanding.
might be able to get away with buffing it out with some rubbing compound .
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i have had a few 10 inch type r's in sealed boxes tried running a single 10 and had a pair . if i were to try type r subs again i would go for ported box just because so many people on smd will tell me a proper designed ported box kicks ass . i didn't especially like the type r's i thought they were good for rap and not so great for other types of music . i think a guy should run some midbass' with the type r's
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i have a couple of bassmekanic cd's 808 and reload , they have sine wave test tones from 20 hz to 99 hz
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plate amp from parts express or a rackmount pa or commercial amp. or look for a subwoofer amp made for home audio , i have seen a few of these but they are not very common the majority of home audio sub amps i have found have been on fee-bay . i have heard good things about crown amps and qsc amps as well . i am still kind of surprised at how there really aren't any dedicated sub amps for home audio use .
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my favorite way of fishing wires is with a scrap piece of copper wire from 14 gauge romex . just sort of bend it as you go , bend the end you push through so it wont snag anything , then when you get it through , generously tape your wire to pull on to your fish wire , making a hook is a good idea . aluminium fence tie wire works good for this too . if it don't pull very easy some silicone spray lube will help , the spray lube that leaves a dry film .
if you pull the gromet off to get your wires through watch for water leaks afterwards , i have ran into gromets not sealing after being disturbed to run wire . if your vehicle is new enough you probably won't run into this .
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this box here i just kind of shot from the hip with out a real plan , where as the the couple of ported boxes i built prior to this were built to recommended specs from jl . just to clarify .
the only real plan i had with building this box was to do a sexy fiberglass baffle and to fit the space i had in the back of my family's ride .
i hear a lot of people talking about proper design for ported enclosure , i have even asked once or twice but get no answers . at the same time these people that speak of proper design also say that manufacture specs aren't always optimal .
answers ?
here some pics of my last 2 ported builds before joining smd they aren't perfect but i'm getting better at building stuff , i think ? the 1 is 2 12 inch wx's and the big box was for an old 15w0 4.5 cub and yes its huge and that is what jl recommended
i have sold the 15w0 so this boxes sits around waiting for a cerwin vega project i think
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i have thought about doing some ports seens how i am close to the rec. volume for ported box , but i am reluctant to do so because the last to ported jl builds i did were built to spec and sounded like shit despite being louder . they were very peaky in a non-musical sort of way . if that makes any sense
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1 thing to be more specific is that i think the bass from these subs could stand to be a little cleaner , maybe a little less muddy ?volume is good enough , almost a bit painful to listen to bass mekanic
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i built this box in july and got it in and playing last week , although it does sound good enough and gets a little loud i was expecting a little more . i have 3 jl 13w1 subs , 2 of them i have had for 3 years and have also had them in the same vehicle in a different enclosure . this enclosure is sealed and somewhere in the range of 6.24 cubic ft to 8.12 cubic foot , 1 common space inside the box , its hard to say exactly because of the baffle and such . they seem to me to be peaky around 30-40 hz , not exact . 3 4ohm subs wired at 1.33 ohms on a tma 1000.1 monoblock amp , everything flat .
a few thoughts come to mind , aero ports , taking some internal volume away , or lining the inside of the box with convoluted foam . not really sure which way to go from here .
jl says 1.5 cub per sub sealed and 2.625 cub ported .
looks like i am in the ballpark for ported , but i haven't really liked the ported enclosures i have built in the past .
i have move the box closer to and farther from the hatch and found the sweet spot with that .
looking for any helpful feedback or direction , thanks
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welcome , what part of mn are you at ? i am in lakefield
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my friend has a h.264 dvr for surveillance with out hard drive . it calls for a sata hard drive . my question is this , i have a seagate 160 gb ultra ata hard drive sitting around . is there enough of a difference between sata and ultra ata drives to where it wouldn't work . thanks in advance for anyone who can explain this a bit for me .
wtb termlab
in Want To Buy
Posted
just what the title says , would like get a termlab meter if you got one you want to sell let me know . thanx