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Posts posted by b-dubs89
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%100 copper good , cca better than nothing . if you don't need alot of cable spend the money on copper if budget is in mind .
cca is ok my preference is just copper , copper coated in tin is good cable too
i have the rfk1d amp kit and rf's big cable is nice
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take an mp3 player and one these cords and try
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sometimes with a trunk car you can pickup some loudness inside if you can figure out a way to open the trunk into the cab . i had a buick century and i moded the back seat arm rest so i could open it and go thru to the trunk , that did help get a little more volume . thought about building a fourth order that would dump through the rear deck or the back seat , but i don't think i would be happy with the sound of a fourth order .
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if you got time , you could try to find what you did as far as wire goes , sounds like a pintched wire or something unplugged . or the stock amp has been damaged due being incompatible with your aftermarket h/u some how
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that could be it , best solution imo is run your own wires and amp them all
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hope you aren't going to be one of those people who goes around advertising your stereo annoying anyone with in an earshot cause that aint cool .
pre-fab boxes are better than nothing , but you could do alot better , ported is overall louder than sealed . if you have a volt meter , check what your ohm load is for your subs , some amps that are rated at 2 ohms will run at lower ohm loads , but they make less power at lower ohm loads . also your placement of the subs could be part of your low output . more specifically about placement , standing waives canceling out sound
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what is the vehicle , i had a similar problem when installing a h/u in suburban , my problem was the rear speakers would be distorted due to there being a factory amp for the rear speakers and the higher wattage of the new head unit would overdrive that oem amp bad .the way that i got around that was pullin my own wires and bypassing the oem amp , which i had after market speakers any way , but if you have say a bose oem system , you may encounter speakers with some weird ohm load which may make it tough to run them with a h/u
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twice in the last couple months , i bid , win and payed and then nothing from seller until i get refunded . ebay isn't so great lately . actually i have had this kind of bullshit from the start with ebay . first auction i won was for a pair of bose 301's , got em for 71 , guy jerked me arround for a month telling me they were shipped before finally refunding my money , cajunblue0 was that sellers id .they were never sent , he had no intent on following thru with the sale
2 months ago i bought 3 p2 10's from a guy they were suposed to be single 8 ohm subs according to his auctio , got 2 single 4 ohm subs with fucked up surrounds and terminals broke off one and 1 dual 4 ohm with 1 tinsel lead broken .
too many fucktards on febay anyomore .
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from what i have seen they are more affordable than alot of mainstream brands
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the hiphonics amp might be ok for the money , my experience with poweraccoustic is not good , the box you could probably build something just as good or better . i too am on a budget , i have had a some rf p1 12's and 15's thought they were descent for the money . love my alpine mrp-m500 amp . very happy with my jl 13w1 subs to . since joining smd , it has occured to me i have been fishing off a small pier ,as far as car audio brands . been thinking more about sundown audio subs .
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glad to hear you kept your cool , but sometimes i can't help but to wonder if things in this world would be different if nobody took or put up with shit like that
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locking gas cap . checking vent is a good idea too . gas gauges are not that accurate always . i had something like this happening with my malibu , and in addition to all i would have it not want to take gas when i would go to put gas in , almost like the anti siphon was jammed . started not filling it up seemed to make a difference for the better . still somewhat puzzled as to what may have been happening . staypuffed has a good theory about building presser and forcing gas out somewhere .
if you think some one is stealing your gas , get a gamecamera .
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i have only found 1 car that worked well for subs in the trunk , it was a buick park ave , something about that body was awsome for subs in the trunk . if you don't want to do a wall you could do a 4th order bandpass
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know all too well , waiting on money to get to building my box , got my mids and highs in and found out my mids and highs amp is a dud a few weeks ago
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string em up
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http://www.ebay.com/...#ht_4268wt_1165
almost bought some of these , i guess big6 has some . want to get some 3 way comps
not totally sure but i think the type r comps are an even bigger rip off than type s
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i have the alpine type s comps , i got mine for 35 like new off feebay ,got a pair of type s 2 ways for about the same price . my opinion , they aren't worth $100 , they are ok , but i would have been disapointed for retail price .really not sure which way a guys money is best spent on comps at this point . what i do know is i have been fishing off a small pier , there's a lot of brands out there i never herd of , that i have seen since joining smd
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never drilled a firewall yet , i like to use an existing hole and grommet , first i push through a piece of copper wire like you would use for residential electric just a single wire , then i tie on my power cable , use some silicone spray and pull it thru , spose if you are trying to do multiple runs of big stuff , better start drillin
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that far in , you should see it start to come together soon . wireing sucks but the payoff is why people do it .
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the only way i think rough roads could have done it is bumps caused something to come into contact with the cone . more likely what others said
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open-mouth breather, oxygen stealer
Big 3 Wire brand suggestions
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Posted
knowing what i know about metals and such i think there's some truth to this , aluminum oxide protects against corrosion so aluminum don't corrode very much below the surface . still like copper .