b-dubs89
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Posts posted by b-dubs89
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service manual , not a chilton ether
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Hello everyone, I am planning on building my own single 12 SEALED box for my sub. The sub recommendations for the box volume is 1.37 cubic feet. I'm new to this stuff so can anyone just give me measurements of wood i need so i can go cut it and put it together? I'm going to use 3/4 MDF wood. Just give me the height X width of each side i need. please and thank you very much.
multiply internal height by width by depth to get your volume in cubic inches , divide your cubic inches by 1728 to get cubic feet .that in a nutshell is how i start designing an enclosure .the external dimensions will vary depending on what thickness of wood you build with
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/Support/rftech.aspx#boxwizard
sometimes i use the rf box wizard to . don't forget to account for woofer displacement , manufacture info sometimes tells you this
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i got an answer about that cable and it said "It is a mixed alloy product. Contains copper and other alloys. CCA is basically copper coated aluminum. This wire contains copper, aluminum, steel, other alloys."
this listing sais oxygen free copper for the same price,, http://www.ebay.com/...#ht_1427wt_1163
that might not be a bad deal , my second choice to copper is copper coated in tin .
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don't remember what size they were , but they looked cool , but didn't do good at all in snow , stock tires actually did better in snow
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i don't like how they don't say copper , they only say oxygen free . oxygen free what ? i have been through all the power wire on ebay here a month ago and so many say oxygen free , and don't say what the metal actually is , so i ask and too many of them come back "it's cca" . better ask to make sure
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not a bad deal if you are on a budget , i might go for it .
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i think if or when the time comes for to me own a vehicle new enough to have that pcm controlled charging bullshit i will probably find away to run a separate charging system dedicated to audio .
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Yeah they should take care of shipping regardless of how ruggedly you packed the item/items
the big thing when it comes to insurance and carriers is the item being in manufactures packaging or being packed ridiculously well . but any way whats up with the damaged subs ? are they playable , do you have plans for them , or did usps want them ?
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yamaha receivers are good for 4 or even 2 ohm loads , i checked this sub on my old yamaha and it made the protection click on . that is when i knew something wasn't right , i have tested type r's at 2 ohm on this same receiver with no problem .
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another thread got me thinking about this , any one have any idea what or if a guy should pay for termlab metering
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the glossier the finish the more you see any imperfections underlying . be prepared for a lot of work .gotta have a perfect base for a perfect finish .
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you can get a good used dj concert amp best bang for the buck i have 3 cl series crown amps on my home audio setup work great i found this on ebay just a suggestion look around you can find other brands qsc,crown,gemini, many other http://www.ebay.com/...130818995096121
i have been thinking about a crown , they have an incredible warranty , and a nice price
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Funny, I didn't see this before I replied in your other thread. Here are a few classic home amps that are considered to be great bang for the buck:
Proton AA1150 (pay no attention to the power ratings)
Proton D1200 (same - the most powerful amplifier offered in the 1980s . . . I don't care what anyone tells you . . . )
Carver M500t (more powerful than the AA1150, but not the D1200
Phase Linear 400 (caution - they didn't nickname them the "flame linears" for nothing . . . )
Adcom GFA-1 (A nice little 200 wpc amp that works great with 8 ohm loads ONLY)
I've owned 'em all before moving on to McIntosh power amps. Be prepared to have any of these amplifiers tested and possibly reconditioned before putting them to use.
hey would fuseing on the speakers protect against the wrath of the flame linear ?
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i ran across this exact same sub on feebay couple months back , with the exact same problem . got refunded easy after contacting the seller , checked out right after ups dropped at my door . i was running mine on an alpine mrp-m500 . i think dude who sold the sub i bought knew it was on its way out he didn't argue or give me a hard time . i looked into reconing it but fixmyspeaker wanted me to send it to them and quoated 150 for them to recone it . sorry to hear about your bad deal .
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I didn't want a 4 channel to take up room, the car is small coming from an suv to a hatch.. I wanted to know if any combo of speakers and deck would sound good.. I mean giving less than 20rms each on only 2 speakers I know it wouldnt be great but maybe someone knew a secret I didn't.. all I'm looking for is a nice clean sounding set up with what I have to work with, money no really a problem.. but I would have wantd to keep from buying an amp in general..
i would like to think you could find a space you wouldn't miss for a small 2 or 4 channel amp . alpine makes a plug and play indash amp that pushes 45 rms x 4 , it plugs into 05 and newer decks with black plug , you could make it work with another brand of deck by splicing some wires . after market speakers will play ok on deck power but they all play better with more power . if you insist on running only deck power , i think jvc may have a the edge on deck power .
my $.02 what ever you get for speakers they will perform better with more than just deck power . don't really know of any speakers that excel on only deck power , maybe factory speakers
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anything you buy for speakers is going to perform better with an amplifier . even if its only 50watt rms x2 , still better than deck power .
i have had few systems with my mids and highs amped and it always sucks bad to go back to deck power
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meh, id rather buy new, atleast new amps have warranties sometimes, and it's brand new and noone has ever used it.id rather buy used. Like i did with my current setup
you have to read the fine print , because not every one who sells a brand is an "authorized dealer" , if you read the warranty most times you will see that only items purchased from an authorized dealer are covered under warranty . and then some warranties are not worth a shit anyways , cost to ship to and from for repair , turn around time for repair , and the chance they will not solve the problem the first time around . can you still get warranty on gray gear ? sometimes yes , but how much non sense before they take care of you .
i have been on the seen of buying used gear too and the last few things have started to make me think otherwise about buying used gear off feebay . as for warranty though , i think if you can get a squaretrade warranty you might be covered pretty well
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Thanks for the links, but I didn't see the part I needed
just out of curiosity , what part are you after
"I need a 9" stiff spider for a 2.5" coil."
this is the closest i could find anywhere , searching google for spiders turns up spiders allright , i would find spiders where ever and ask if they have the size you are looking for
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Thanks for the links, but I didn't see the part I needed
just out of curiosity , what part are you after
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i couldn't resist , every time i hear probox this is what comes to mind . -
as i have heard it , after playing a while a little smell can happen pretty normal, but right away or really strong= DANGER , if the smell makes you uneasy back off a little bit . voice coils do get warm when gains are set to not clip after playing full tilt for an extended time
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http://mwaspeakerparts.com/index.html
there's a few , not sure what parts you seek , have seen re-cone kits made of orion parts to fit alpine type r motor on ebay , and also seen rf recones on ebay . went to fixmyspeaker for an rf t115d4 sub and they wanted like $150 and didn't offer a diy recone kit . so i didn't bother .
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the others are all correct but if you do want to attempt it, digikey.com would be the place to look. buy a few extras because you want to measure resistance of each FET, they will be slightly different and you want to match those all up as best as possible. ideally they should all be the same but you probably wont be that picky.
what kind of soldering tools/experience do you have? i can help if you really want to try, just to try, but i cant help if you dont have the tools.
thats interesting , didn't know that about matching fets ,makes enough sense
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muffler ?
in Engine and Performance - Anything for that couple extra horses!
Posted
looking for opinions on this , i got a 93 dakota with a 3.9 v6 from my neighbor and i decided to sell the catylitic convertor for scrap , the exhaust was loud already . when i cut off the cat i was planning on just straight piping it all the way back , but now i am second guessing if that is the best idea or if i should add a muffler .don't want it to be too loud . if i were to add a muffler i want to add one that will improve the sound as well as quiet it down a little . wondering if there is a muffler that could make this v6 sound more like a v8 as far as the low tones and throatyness .