904slumpin
-
Posts
91 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by 904slumpin
-
-
yeah so basically the subs will not play anything and it will sound like shit when the freq. bounce around in a song? like they will "take turns".. lmao
-
what does cancel eachother out mean. there both ran on different amps AND there own battery. 340amp alt up front.. dual 1/0 for + and - ran to the rear batterys.. dual 1/0 big3 and batt grounds... my middle name is overkill
-
WILL IT WORK? without sounding like complete shit. i got two l7 15s in a ported box thats tuned to around 34 or some shit and the subs are in seperate chambers... so could i run one sub on one of my t1000 and on the amp set it so it does the low low bass and then set the other on my other t1000 to hit the higher notes.... any input? thank you
-
is the 15 l7 4 or 2 ohm..............................
-
if you have $500 on you i dont suggest reading this post or you may just end up broke with one at the end of the day
http://www.hk22rimfire.com/index.php?page=products
i just got the mp5a5 last week and love it, cost me $430 out the door
they also have this model hich is the SD model, goes for like $470
-
also, when its all said and done and my main box and port is build, does it matter whether i have the subs on the front, back, top, or sides of the box?
-
would honestly rather build a box exactly like this but to my main dimensions.. but i dont kno a program that ill simplify is easy enough
-
current setup
2 PA 5.25 in front doors. swapping for rf t252s comp set
2 sony 6.5 in rear deck, swapping for rf t652s comp set
kicker l7 12 in ported box, building box for 2 12s ported into cabin through back seat..
2 gauge power and grounds
orion 2400 amp.. sapping for rf power series undecided on which amp or amps.. also and getting a t400.4 for my comp sets
STOCK HEAD UNIT, just ordered a pioneer deh7400hd..
i have 2 orion2400s and 2 l712s at the moment.. the box i had for 2 l7s didnt fit so i just bought a single ported one at pawn shop for $40
all my mids and highs are ran off the stock headunit and sound like shit when i adjust the bass knob high on headunit due to me having the subwoofers connected via one of those converters.. so basically im gonna start out with throwing a new head unit in. building a box for 2 12's ported via removable rear seat.. the box is going to be around 5.1FT3.. cant decide whether i should throw some RE 12s in there or FI... cannot find an FI dealer online anywhere. upgrading my 2 gauge to dual runs of knu kca 1/0 and throwing 2 batteries in the back.. so here is my ROUGH draft on what im starting this weekend.. any input if re sex12s would sound good in this? there specs say to tune them at around 33.. once again this is a rough draft i still gotta tweak some stuff to make sure 2 12's will even fit in this box lmfao.. so heres just some pics for will definetly keep updates on new equipment i get and all that good stuff.. with pics of course
no the big 3 has not been done.. plan on using my 1/0 black KCA for that once i get it.
i really wish i could fit a double din but its a single din dash
rough draft
heres my ghetto system as of now
CHECKLIST/WISHLIST/SHOPPING CART FOR NEW SYSTEM.. REPLACING EVERYTHING.. AND ADDING..
WIRING/ELECTRICAL
- 50ft KNU KCA 1/0 in blue for power
- 50ft KNU KCA 1/0 in black for power
- 50ft KNU KARMA 12g speaker wire for comp sets
- 10ft KNU OFC 8g for sub speaker wire
- 20ft remote wire(had to add it lol)
- 2 pair 2CHANNEL KARMA rcas
- 5 KNU FUSE HOLDERS WITH 200A OR SO FUSES
- 2 BATTERIES STILL UNDECIDED AS WELL
LOWS
- 2 RE SEX12S.. HAVENT 100% DECIDED SO OPEN TO SUGGESTIONS THAT WOULD SAVE MONEY.
AMPS
- RF T????. undecided on which particular one..
- RF T400.4 for mids and high
HIGHS/MIDS
- RF T252S comp set for front range
- RF T652s comp set for rear stage
cant decide on to run active or just run passive with the crossovers the setups come with. any input?
any input on other subs other than the RE SEX12s? cheaper/better suggestions?
- 50ft KNU KCA 1/0 in blue for power
-
For power or signal distribution I'm not entirely sure if it matters much more than preventing corrosion and aesthetics. Gold, nickel, and platinum plated surfaces will all resist corrosion and tarnishing much better than a copper or aluminum piece would on its own. This is why you'll often see gold-plated RCA's or HDMI cables. Realistically, I'm not sure if it makes much of a difference what type of plating you choose other than the look and the price. Nickel and platinum will be similar. Gold's obviously gonna stand out if you want it to. Gold will provide the best electrical conductivity of any metal besides copper or silver so it would hypothetically be best for RCA's.
Soldering opens up a whole can of worms on plated parts. What would you be looking to solder? Generally something is soldered and then plated. If you solder an already-plated piece the heat of the solder gun could melt the thin metal plating or the reaction of the plating with the lead and tin in solder can possibly compromise the bond of the metals.
so basically if i get gold plated knu 1/0 terminal rings the solder will fuck up the prettyness? lmao ill just go with nickel plated i guess?
wouldnt use a solder gun id use a torch for this since its 1/0
-
can i solder without any trouble on something that is gold plated. rather ask before i do it
-
they got gold plated rcas and blocks, silver plated, nickel, and even platinum.. is there s "best" when it comes to this?..
trust me i already googled it lol.. not trying to make a VS thread.. but is there an all around better choice? i heard nickel actually is best? just want more advice.
-
just go ahead and do it, aslong as you know which wire is which.. label them.. 18 gauge is good your headunit puts out maybe 15rms on each channel im guessing so thats fine
He never said what HU he had, let alone if he even needed the speaker outputs. The power wires are the important ones
and your point is..
-
can he just run his tweets on high pass on amp, and run the passive crossovers that came with them?. and run the 6.5s on the mid amp on full pass with the crossover it comes with.. only thing is youd have to somehow find 2 other crossovers that came with the components and i dont know if rockford sells them by themself. but if you run them on the same amp you can simply use the passive that it comes with..\
CORRECT? or would an active setup work better? can you run active and passive at the same time with no problems?.. id figure it would work better at eliminating hatever freq. you dont want.
-
just go ahead and do it, aslong as you know which wire is which.. label them.. 18 gauge is good your headunit puts out maybe 15rms on each channel im guessing so thats fine
SUBS in seperate chambers.. setting freq. diff?????????
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
^^^^^^^^idk what that has to do with anything but all my equipment is brand new and purchased off ebay. kicker, rockford, knu.. not cheap gear at all. and the box is not prefab i got it from a buddy that had a local shop build it. but honestly unless it is ME building the box i dont trust peoples "tuning" ability lmao, but thanks for the help bros
so basically i should build another box and maybe tune one side of it higher than the other? i was really just curious.. i have 4 sets of t2652 comp sets on my MIDBSS but i really meant just set one subs a little higher than the other so that one sub hits the high more "vibrating" type bass and the other hit the low notes that make your heart drop.
but i guess that does sound complicating ill just stick to what i know ahah