[Help explain this port]

its called a rear loading horn

[Box design for CobraStatus - Tline IN THE TRUNK]

I thought the port area stayed the same throughout the line?

I dont know where people get the idea that a 1/4 wave pipe MUST have a 1:1 ratio...the flare rate can be ANYTHING you want...depends on the driver and loading environment.

[waste of time?]

I've heard those sealed....they don't get low.

Ported you will jizz in your pants

[Subs inside / outside of enclosure ?]

when invert mount or standard mount...polarity does NOT have to be switched.

It all depends on the installation. People THINK the polarity must be changed but that is false. Depending on the install the bass may sound better with the polarity in phase or out of phase with the rest of the system

[alpine type r or alpine type s?]

all of you cannot read.

There was never a choice in his post about two 10 inch Type Rs.

Only

ONE Type R 10

or

TWO Type S 12s

I would go with the SINGLE Type R 10

[sub inside of port]

This not a "take on a tapped horn"

It is a Tapped Horn. Nothing else. Just designed for HT and able to get over 100db at subsonic levels with only a handful of watts IIRC

[4th order blow through, how well will this work]

how well will it work??

No one here knows.

Its just a box with chambers and a port

Depending on the subwoofers and the loading environment the performance could be yay or nay

[Will some one throw this in BB pro 4th order folded horn, tline, I don't know it really is but it looks really cool... come on guys..]

actually a PROPER tapped horn is much harder to design than a front loading horn (Wicked One)

Try it out...its just a FLH. chamber sized and throat area are critical to the tuning

[possible port problem]

OP are you retarded or what?? A few have asked you to explain WTF the picture is.

Can you not explain to us what the hell is the picture is???

Or what the enclosure is??

Not just a picture of a couple pieces of MDF and ask if there will be a problem?? Thats like me showing a picture of my foot and asking if my hand is ok...diggit?? dee dee dee

Clearly no one here knows what the hell you are talking about and you still havent explained.

[Alpine Type R]

you got crap screws if they are coming out

[possible port problem]

so what are you saying??

the speaker fires into the port??

[Final Draft]

worst port design I've seen...much better to just go along the back wall.

[Cardboard tubing?]

resin is not needed...It would just be a waste of money IMO.

The tube is plenty strong

[2 Alpine 12's in a sealed box, Hifonics amp = Sounds like ass]

usually throwing subs on the backseat makes for an ass like sound

[what size box]

what electrical upgrades have you done??

what vehicle??

[Opinion on MA Audio HK 18's?]

I used to have an HK15XC...the chrome basket ones. 600 watts rms rated...gave it 900 watts daily with no problems.

[Ported box for two Type Arrrrrgh's]

good for your type x..... however we are talking about a type r.... and i am stating facts... alpine suggest 1.75cuft net per sub max.... honestly i think he needs to stick to manufactures specs.... vistav6 is having problems with his setup because he refused to stick to specs....

anyways ktownsdriftking..... 2 more days and they will be there!

yeah its only a "suggestion". Enclosure options are limitless

[Question On Subwoofers...]

you are retarded for comparing a BTL with a W7.

That would be like whats faster...a Dodge Viper or a Lexus GS. Just not comparable

If you have 3-4 cu ft to work with the W7 will sound better.

If you have room for a huge enclosure and willing to sacrifice SQ than the BTL will do just fine but never will it sound better than the W7. Just different beasts of their own

[Ported box for two Type Arrrrrgh's]

im pretty sure alpine suggests no more than 1.75cuft per woofer

EDIT... yes the manual says the vented enclosure range is .75 to 1.75cuft per woofer... the optimum size is 1.3cuft net...

you guys cant just throw a sub in any size enclosure you want... these enclosure specs are build specifically for the woofer... and at 2cuft im willing to bet it wont handle shit for power... especially playing chopped and screwed... you need as much cone control as you can get...

you clearly don't know much on enclosure design if you only look at the "recommended specs"

[Ported box for two Type Arrrrrgh's]

1.5 cu ft is too small unless you plan on running way over the rated power.

2-2.5 cu ft is best.

[How is this Prefab Q-Logic box?]

that bandpass is crap...that prefab ported box is crap.

bandpasses are custom designed enclosures...there is no one size fits all.

[Gutters FTL or...?]

do it...just wrap it in some leftover dampening mat.

even peal n seal

[Another Random Box Idea]

it would look even better with 2" ports for each sub going into a 4" port like headers

[T-LINE]

no need for an aero for those subs...3 inch or 4 inch round PVC pipe will work just fine

[T-LINE]

yes usually very low tuning is implemented in HT subwoofer design