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Posts posted by yUmadBro
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Isnt this why we disconnect the battery when wiring things?
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thanks for those inputs, is this better?
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I'd like to set the port in the middle of the subs with 45s internal, how many common walls would that be?
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Personally I use 2 1/2 inch sheet rock screws but, I make sure I never drill my sub into the box
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I'll be running two Skar IVX 10's, they will be running off a hifonics 600.4 for the time being until I upgrade amplifiers.
Anyway the suggested tuning is 35 hz but I think this might work. Only issue I think I have is the port area seems small to me, is it?
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D4 IVX 10's left?
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nice trunk bro
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orted @ 35 HZ: 3.5 ft^3
Displacement: 0.15 ft^3
Depth: 6.25"
Outside Diameter: 15.125"
Cutout: 13.875"
Heres some pics and measurements sorry their not that good and hard to visualize
Measurements of trunk
Trunk opening: 39 1/2 "
Backseat to end of trunk: 40"
Floor from brake light to brake light: 46"
The inner trunk to floor is 21"
The side of the trunk to floor is 19"
The trunk bars are both 18"
10" back seat opening along floor
33" along the floor of the rear seats
39" from left wheel well to right wheel well
I'm looking for a bit of a different design.. I'd either like to kind of center the sub OR some aero ports through the backseat opening or the back seat cupholder fold out. Pretty sure I have enough measurements posted already but if i dont please let me know. Skar suggests a 35 hz tuning for a ported enclosure but I know the design im looking for will affect the tuning. The subwoofers going to be ran off a hifonics zeus 500.2. I dont have a preference about subs or aeros facing up or forward. Just either really would like the sub in the opening in the pic below or the aero ports through the cupholder slot. Anyone who might wanna take a shot at a design would be great I can't really work with sketchup to well. Thanks for any input.
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Snot mixed with flour bonds well
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each sundown 8 is 500w. that amp is 300w. if anything i'd just run 1 sa 8, not 4.
This...x2
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Mean machine monoblock does about 2500 @ 1 ohm i believe. Not to bad considering the price, probably does a little less than 2500 though
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8-10 ohms and 2 ohms? ouch
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I dont think that amps getting a true 1500
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i switched the pioneer out to a jvc and the noise is gone.
that means that the pico fuse inside the pioneer headunit is blown. theres an easy fix around that though. but next time i suggest you not plug/unplug rca's with the headunit on. or the car for that matter.
Most definitely that was what was wrong and, I did move the rcas with the unit on more than a few times. won't do that anymore. Thanks for everyone who chimed in on this.
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i switched the pioneer out to a jvc and the noise is gone.
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i have a kenwood headunit laying around somewhere i can give a try tomorrow but its weird because i didnt have this problem until i switched the amplifiers and components. i check all my speaker leads and they look fine to me.
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it slightly increases when i accel, but not always. it sounds like the whines coming through the speakers but its loudest when the trunk is open so thats why i assumed the amp. it is a pioneer head unit 70.99 special. i seperated the rcas from the power when i tried a new set but it only helped the noise a very little. even when the headunit volume is at 00 the whine seems the loudest, as i turn the volume up it seems to slowly go away but still very evident
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So i had another 4 chan hooked up before i swapped my amps. then i made a swap and immediately im getting a loud whining noise but only when the car is turned on. i tried replacing the rca wires and it made a very small difference but not to much. Someone told me to try a ground isolator, so i borrowed one and tried it and its still whining terribly loud. Any ideas on what i can try would be great. Thanks
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I was going to pick up four of these but they were a little to pricey for me at the time. Boy, do i regret it now. haha
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if you already know what you want to do what do you need help with?
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Dosent sound to bad
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lol you do have different ideas every day
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tweeters may have not enough power after powering your components
hit a bump and stock speakers cut off momentarily, but not sub?
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted
I had the same problem a week ago. Pretty sure one of my rear connections was loose and it took out all the components with it. Just double check your leads and connections to the amp