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Ray-ban

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Posts posted by Ray-ban

  1. OK, what if i unplug the remote wire and remove wires that lead from amp to subs? will that be as good as removing the fuse? because i dont know how to remove the fuse at the battery.

    Wut? You can't be serious...

    I actually am serious!

    I would rather ask all my questions here then act like i know what im doing and blow my amp, burn my car, or whatever the worst case scenario is.

  2. so you want someone to give you a free design?

    id help but not for free lol

    A lot of people do free designs. If you didn't plan on helping, there really was no point of you coming in here and acting like a fucking douchebag. And acting like a fucking douchbag is not limited to this thread today.

    i second this

    3rd. Guys like JoeX are the shit!

  3. Ok no problem:

    Enclosure Specifications:

    Fb = 32.062 Hz

    Vb = 2.152 ft^3

    External Height = 11.5 in

    External Width = 35 in

    External Depth = 17.75 in

    Port Width = 3 in

    Cut Sheet List:

    * All Dimensions in Inches.

    * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.

    External Enclosure Parts:

    2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 35 x 11 1/2

    Left & Right Sides = 15 1/2 x 10

    Top & Bottom = 35 x 15 1/2

    L Port Internal Assembly Parts:

    Front to Back = 12 1/2 x 10

    Extension = 12 3/4 x 10

    2xSFPF.jpg

    Don't think you need the crossbrace with the double baffle.

    Thanks a lot!! I'll post a pic when I'm done.

  4. If you mean sanding the internal and external ends then for all practical matters no if it was kerfed then the effective length of the port would be reduced somewhat, the wooden rod can be whatever you think is necessary aabove 1" diameter both glued and screwed

    i hate to ask but do you mind putting up dimensions for a double baffle tuned at 30-32hz? im gonna start building today and im gonna go with the double baffle design.

    Thanks!

  5. Here is a suggestion very much like the above:

    Enclosure Specifications:

    Fb = 32.048 Hz

    Vb = 2.125 ft^3

    External Height = 11.5 in

    External Width = 35 in

    External Depth = 17 in

    Port Width = 3 in

    Cut Sheet List:

    * All Dimensions in Inches.

    * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.

    External Enclosure Parts:

    Front & Back = 35 x 11 1/2

    Left & Right Sides = 15 1/2 x 10

    Top & Bottom = 35 x 15 1/2

    L Port Internal Assembly Parts:

    Front to Back = 12 1/2 x 10

    Extension = 14 x 10

    Assembly guide (generic dimensions):

    RE.jpg

    Let me know any questions.

    do i need a double baffle? if so how much of an impact would it have if i just doubled it? will tuning go up or down?

  6. Here is a suggestion very much like the above:

    Enclosure Specifications:

    Fb = 32.048 Hz

    Vb = 2.125 ft^3

    External Height = 11.5 in

    External Width = 35 in

    External Depth = 17 in

    Port Width = 3 in

    Cut Sheet List:

    * All Dimensions in Inches.

    * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.

    External Enclosure Parts:

    Front & Back = 35 x 11 1/2

    Left & Right Sides = 15 1/2 x 10

    Top & Bottom = 35 x 15 1/2

    L Port Internal Assembly Parts:

    Front to Back = 12 1/2 x 10

    Extension = 14 x 10

    Assembly guide (generic dimensions):

    RE.jpg

    Let me know any questions.

    any suggestions with what type of screws, how many and type of glue?

    MDF screws, Titebond II wood glue.

    If you cut the wood straight you can do with out screws and for glue tightbond 2

    do i need caulk? if so, when do i apply that?

  7. Here is a suggestion very much like the above:

    Enclosure Specifications:

    Fb = 32.048 Hz

    Vb = 2.125 ft^3

    External Height = 11.5 in

    External Width = 35 in

    External Depth = 17 in

    Port Width = 3 in

    Cut Sheet List:

    * All Dimensions in Inches.

    * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.

    External Enclosure Parts:

    Front & Back = 35 x 11 1/2

    Left & Right Sides = 15 1/2 x 10

    Top & Bottom = 35 x 15 1/2

    L Port Internal Assembly Parts:

    Front to Back = 12 1/2 x 10

    Extension = 14 x 10

    Assembly guide (generic dimensions):

    RE.jpg

    Let me know any questions.

    any suggestions with what type of screws, how many and type of glue?

  8. I have decided that i am going to build a box for my 2 RF Punch HX2 10's.

    Is anyone here able to give me a design with all the cut measurements? I know its a lot to ask, but when i am filling out information in sub enclosure calculators, i have no idea if my port is too long or too short and whether i have enough cubic feet. My available space is H-11.5 W-36 D-20 in the trunk of a Toyota Camry.

    Equipment: (2) RF punch hx2 10"

    (1) Hifonics BRZ1200

    I want a box tuned around 30-32hz. I listen to a lot of rap and a lot of decaf.

    What do i need to glue and seal the box together?

    Thaks!

  9. I have 2 HX2 10's in a pre fab proted box right now and i am disappointed in their abilities to hit low notes. I think my box might be tuned a little too high.

    Does anyone have experience with these subs? and their abilities to hit the low notes?

    I am aware that they are 10's and not 15", but i heard a pair of 10" kicker comps get lower then my HX2's.

    Could getting a bigger box make a difference?

    Thanks!

    To reach any conclusions you must have the specs of the box or calculate it measuring everything, RF recommends 1 cubic feet @35Hz for a single sub setup so at least your box should be 2 cubic feet net (after displacements) and be tuned mid to lower 30s to reach the deeper bass notes.

    So i have now come to the conclusion that its the box that i need to get rid off.

    Anyone know any box builders in NorCal?

    Or any credible builders i can order from online?

    Does steve make boxes? i know he's busy with the lexus but does he have a shop or something? because i live 30 minutes from Sacramento.

  10. Well you might waste some time and money but it will be worth it. Experience is a great thing to have. Later on you will want to upgrade and then you'll need another box built for you. This is my opinion and it might be different from others but I would seriously consider working on your woodworking/box-building skills.

    I understand i should work on my woodwork skills but at this time i need something solid. A good box that will last me a long time and push my subs to its max potential.

    the prefab is your problem man.i had 2 hx2 15's and they pounded out the lows,they actually got louder with lower bass..yea i get they wernt 10's but that dosent matter.its ALL in the box design.

    Man thats exactly what i want, louder with the lower bass.

    Anyone have any opinion on the amp im using? The hifonics brutus brz1200

  11. yeah its a prefab.

    this might be the exact box i have

    http://www.amazon.com/Atrend-E10Dsv-10-Inch-Enclosure-Chamber/dp/B0013MT5H8/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1339385693&sr=1-4&keywords=atrend+bbox+10

    Everyone tells me these subs are beast and that they compare to todays T1's, but it sound weak in my camry.

    Im using a hifonic brutus 1200w to power both of them at 1ohm.

    Im thinking of getting a box from "Dave the box guy" cause i have never built a subwoofer enclosure in my life, and im afraid ill just waist time and money. Unless someone knows somebody in Nor Cal that makes good boxes?

    I listen to a lot of rap like young jeezy, gorilla zoe, and a whole bunch of decaf , so i like lows that give people migraines.

  12. I have 2 HX2 10's in a pre fab proted box right now and i am disappointed in their abilities to hit low notes. I think my box might be tuned a little too high.

    Does anyone have experience with these subs? and their abilities to hit the low notes?

    I am aware that they are 10's and not 15", but i heard a pair of 10" kicker comps get lower then my HX2's.

    Could getting a bigger box make a difference?

    Thanks!

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