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Thespeakershoppe

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Posts posted by Thespeakershoppe

  1. It was a very clean install. I felt like the doors were not playing or didn't haven enough power... I also felt like those subs needed some gain / phase matching. Didn't seem as loud as it should be for 12 15's on over 20,000 watts. ( 6 2500.1's at .5ohms)... Ether they were not broke in, or gains were not set... Or lots of cancelation. It was moving air but 2 vehicles that were way louder were DeRoncey's blazer and pure audio's truck. Both had 4 15's in a 4th order on about 10k and I felt like the install and vehicle was very clean impressive and had tons of potential. I just don't think they had enough time to really optomize everything.

    It took me 2 weeks to really break in my ZVX's on a 2500... And another 2 months to get my gains, subsonic, LPF, deck settings, box position, all trunk leaks sealed, and fixed RCA problems all sorted out where I finally feel like I got all I can out of it with out throwing more $$ at it (which I will soon)

    Can't wait to hear it again. Hopefully Kevin can chime in and take this constructive criticism as just that. I'd love for his show vehicle to be a 155+ on a huge bandwith.

    It was finished at 5am on friday the day of the show lol.

    The doors were turned practically off due to a white noise issue throughout the system that they didn't have enough time to troubleshoot before the show was underway.

    Wasn't bad for 20 day cramming....it will be completed soon enough though lol

    That's exactly what I figured... I'm glad I didn't jump to conclusions. But I'm a bit sad about the doors. I already know what ZVX's and a 2500 can do... Which is why I'm getting another 2500 ;) but I really really wanted to hear those doors as I was considering going pro audio.
    When they were tested Vs the Crescendo PWX they were a good bit louder, but didn't have much midbass in comparison. I personally went PA route for loudness not to have a ton of midbass haha. So it works for me!

    Comparing those two speakers doesn't even make sense. The pwx is a mid bass that's y it has more mid bass. And the Skar is a pa which is why it's louder so not really a decent comparison. Compare them to a sundown neo pro or a beyma neo and that will be a comparison worth bragging about.

  2. blkframelst.jpg

    Well I just did 2 Skar ma-8's in a 2012 KIA Sorrento on a Skar 1500 and they pound. Only drawback is they need more depth to the motor. Spacers maybe? They get down and I just beat on em for over an hour on claped 1500+ watts and they take it great but you can tell there is a lot more travel to the surround and other parts of the suspension before the coil bottoms out. Now that is on my test bench with way more than rated but my point is on this particular sub I think spacers are needed to let the suspension travel more. Maybe something to think abou?

  3. I saw someone said no carbon cone because the dust cap covers it... how about some type of semitransparent dust cap?

    I said no to the 8" CF cone, on the 12, 15, and 18s it will be seen.

    Now a transparent dustcap would be sick!

    Wouldn't the 8" CF cone still add strength?

    Yes but with as small as the cone area is and not putting stupid amounts of power on it I don't think it would need more strength? Just my opinion.

    Well darn how bout we do it just to make me feel better lol

  4. Well the spiders diameter is not the only thing that allows performance. In all logic you could do a 2.5 " could and have less room for spider but just use a better one. Maybe higher roll that will allow more travel. You can have a very high travel spider with good linearity and still fit 2.5 " coil. That being said. I think a badass 2" coil would be better. Hell fit some more coil there I hear 8 layer flat wind all over the place with manufacturers lol. Make me a 12 layer. High roll spider. Deeply bumped backplate to help stop chances of bottoming out the coil. Maybe a progressive (split) spider design like some post have talked about. Keep the spoked basket I think it's tuff. Personally I'd say tall roll surround also. Give the sub as much cone as possible and still allow for tons of travel. Stitched surround I agree with rusty. Not nescessary. And tons of cooling , vented backplate. Flared top plate. Coil gap venting. Help keep it cool. Small sub so I see heat being an issue with power I know people will try to run to it lol. Just my suggestions.

  5. Knu for wire IMO. If you're on a budget and HAVE to have OFC then welding wire is ok. Stinger's stuff is small compared to Rockord/Kicker/Knu and costs just as much.

    you know what, maybe thats what it was Knu, saw a link here on the site, been out of this stuff for a while and have just always used stinger from back in the day.

    do you have a site for them?

    EDIT: nvm, got the site. Any you say go with them over stinger?

    Yes. The Stinger HPM just does not compare with Knu. It's flat out bigger (the KnuKonceptz is). I can't think of a reason why the Pro or Level 2 (the red stuff) wire they have would be bigger than the HPM, being that the HPM costs more. Knu has great CS and fast shipping so...I don't see a reason not to buy from them.

    Well take it or leave it from me but I have better power transfer with the stinger pro hpm over knu all day. Don't ask me why but my voltage stays better and it's only more expensive it you get it from someone trying to rip u off. We sell stinger 0ga outta my shop 4$ a foot everyday. Maybe it's the quality of the copper. Don't know all I know it voltage drop used to be from 14.9 down to 13.8 and I was using all knu. With a couple short pieces of stinger. Switched to all stinger and now drop to 14.1 at lowest. Checking with 20-50 hz sine wave.

  6. are cadence amps any good? i was looking at there ZRS line .. the ZRS 4 ch for $369 and the ZRS 1 at $425 ..

    Bro I'm a cadence dealer and that is too much for those amps. PM me ill set you right

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