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mikelbolton

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Posts posted by mikelbolton

  1. Being a little younger, that was a little before I started playing with computers. I don't remember exactly what our first comp was, but I do remember DOS. I remember typing commands in before I could read full on books. I remember troubleshooting an old dot matrix printer we had as a kid.

    As time moved on, Win 3.1, then 95, so on and so forth...

    Nowadays, I have a nice custom rig

    Asus M478T-E motherboard

    AMD 955 Black edition CPU

    4GB of Patriot DDR3 (1066MHz)

    (like 6 HDDs)

    Coolmax PSU

    Thermaltake Level 10 Gaming Case (just acquired)

    Windows 7- Ultimate edition 64-bit (a gift from Microsoft)

    21" I-Inc monitor

    and I'm sure I'm forgetting some...

  2. I wouldn't call him out on being a troll. For all we know he might have a badass build and become an active contributing member.

    guys stop beating on him. i dont think he can post with a low count so stop picking on the new guy

    Thank you!

    Even if someone does come here initially for the contest, they can become a valuable member to the forums. I remember being on board with a forum that started up several years back, it took things like this and product reviews to turn the site into what it is today.

  3. What'd they quote you? I've been digging around for one for a 2008 Aveo LS.

    You're alt actually has a different part number. I don't know if there are any other differences. I'll pm you.

    sometimes though when you get a higher amp alt, if its the same casing and stator, the windings are changed so that the alt produces more amps at high rpms (of the alt not the motor), but produces waay less at idle. DC power made my Jeep KJ 260a alt with a bigger stator and case, so even at idle it produces almost the max of my oem unit. Expensive tho, $600. So see if you can get specs on the stinger alt, like what amps it makes at what rpm of the alt (you have to do some math to determine engine rpm vs alt rpm).

    Another alternative is to have a local shop that repairs alternators/generators/small electrical motors etc rebuild yours to new specs. Usually about $200 or so

    This is from the e-mail from Singer

    " The upgraded unit that I offer for your vehicle is a 210A. This alternator is a direct bolt on design for your vehicle and would be plug and play (the factory plug would go into it like the OEM unit) This alternator includes my newest 1.7" overdrive pulley to boost the idle output (this will spin the alternator faster at low RPMS to boost idle output by around 30 to 40A more."

  4. Yeah, I used to be the auto shop manager at Sears in Rocky Mount. When we were shutting down, I got moved to Fixture sales manager. I made an offer to the liquidator to buy the risers in electronics (that the TVs used to sit on). I paid $1 per riser, and each one had a top, bottom, and 3 sides (5 sheets each). Made out like a bandit.DSC02640.jpg

  5. Thanks for the info.

    I am not too worried about the subs... i plan on swapping out to a 15 after the new year. Currently looking a new alt and battery to throw in the mix.

    I just want more bump til i switch subs. I have ab 65 sheets of mdf, so why not.

    Its probably not accurate, but i metered system at 129.2dB in sealed box, with a boomstick.

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