scoobywrx05
-
Posts
491 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by scoobywrx05
-
-
-
I was 433 Watts off. Lol. I was basing my guess off of a 800@2 I use to own. Lol.
-
Are we aloud to use any "personal sources"to come to an answer?
-
-
Tore that windshield up pretty good. Lol
-
DC sound lab sticker is in a good spot. What's it look like at night?
-
Hmmm. New windshield time. without the rear view mirror this time. Lol.
-
What ya waiting for bro. Get to work. Lol. I sent ya a pm the other day Nate, hope all is well.ive got some sitting down stairs waiting for me to get off my ass and get to work. The hard part is finding a shady area to do it in thats not close to the house.
-
That's a good point to add especially if you have never done or have hardly done any glass work. I don't count drops. I use a big syringe with ml markings on it.the fact alone you cant mix it too hot and warp pieces is a seller all in itself. mess up enough panels and pieces because you got impatient to count drops and you'll understand.
-
Why you gotta be so mean. Lol. Just joking bro. Let me rephrase my statement. I'm not completely sold on using this stuff for everything, like glassing the inside of enclosures and some other things. To where I would have to spend money on a light, simply because the car audio demand in my area is quite low. Now if I did it every day that would be a different story. I'm not hating on your product at all so please don't take it that way. I do see allot of benefits from using itand I am going to order some for the door panel and A pillar job I have coming up in the next week or two. Like you I have been using the same old stuff for the past 20 years. I'd have to say the thing I like the most about your resin is the no rush on working time, especially when doing big areas. Being able to make everything perfect then taking it out in the sun to set will cut down on body work and sanding time. I think embossed or sunken logos will also be easier to do. The set up time and no waste are just extra benefits and if you do allot of glass work are good benefits to have. If you are somebody that has never done any glass work before this stuff would be the shit. I wish this stuff would of been out when I first started doing glass work. Lol.
150 dollars.... Hmmmm. I could buy like 540 of the wooden handle brushes from harbor freight for that. Nah, not sold on this stuff yet.150 bux isn't too bad for an led blacklight panel, I remember when those were around 7-800
the sun is still free. The light is for using it when it's cloudy out or you are doing a kick panel where you can't get sunlight into the car. It isn't necessary to buy the light though.
I don't really expect someone who doesn't do much glassing to appreciate the product. I mean, a noob WILL appreciate it because it is dummy proof, but someone like me, who does it a lot, will really love it. Especially if they used the old shit for years, like me.
You go buy those 540 brushes, the 540 cups, the catalyst....keep making all that waste, and while you are waiting hours for shit to cure, mine is already done. Matter of fact, i am on the same brush for a month now. I used the standard shit recently because i didn't have a light and for the short time i had to go back to it, it was torture. You don't have to be sold on it, i really don't care either way, but i know for a fact this shit is amazing.....or i wouldn't bother put my name on it.
-
150 dollars.... Hmmmm. I could buy like 540 of the wooden handle brushes from harbor freight for that. Nah, not sold on this stuff yet.150 bux isn't too bad for an led blacklight panel, I remember when those were around 7-800
-
That building makes your truck look normal sized. Lol.
-
1
-
-
Isn't that like false advertisement for companies to put unreal wattage ratings on their amps. I guess ya need to test how much voltage you need to put to that amp to either make it smoke or do 1200 Watts. Maybe your suppose to run it on a 24 volt system. Lol
-
Yeah I can hear it now. " Sorry Jon, your subs won't be done till next year about this time." Lol.imma have to hold back some sweet rings and heat shrink from you so we can atleast keep up lol but i guess two can play that game haha
-
2
-
-
I like how he's standing in just the right spot when he takes pics so you can't tell if its a 4th or a 6th. Lol. Damn you Rusty. Lol
-
Doesn't matter if the battery is 12 inches or 12 feet away. There is still 3 connections in between the amp and battery. The connection to the battery, the connection into the reducer and the reducer into the amp. Since you said it seems to happen at higher frequencies leads me to believe that it really isn't a voltage problem but more of a current problem. Something in line in one of the connections somewhere isn't able to handle the current draw the amp is demanding at that frequency. Whether it be in one of the connections on the power side or if your ground might not be the best or has a little bit of corrosion problem going on.
-
Lol. I just saw it today and had to look at it again cause I was like did that really say April 30th?.?.?
failboat supreme.Hella fail lol
sorry again...for some reason, i think i was thinking 5/30 not 4/30. Never seen such a quick contest so it didn't dawn on me. All i can do is apologize and sink with the failboat like a good captain.
-
I was talking about your reducers not making a good enough contact with the power and ground inputs on the amp.
-
I saw the voltage readings you posted at the battery then another set of voltage readings when you where playing it. Where the second voltage readings taken right at the amp or the battery in the back?
-
Another thing. If you can, use just the wire into the amp. Those reducers are probably touching in 2 small areas, one where the set screw holds it and a small spot on the bottom. A small area to run a possible a 100 amp current draw threw.
-
Either have I especially with 4v pre outs on that deck. Clip city. Depending on what tone your talking about that shuts the amp off. Things to check. Impedance the amp is seeing at said tone (as Rusty suggested) and put a dmm set at vdc right on the power and ground inputs of the amp and read the voltage. I would also take a look at where the wire goes into the reducers and the connection of the reducers in to the amp.You can put your gain on the amp all the way up with no distortion? Never heard or seen that before.Especially if you have everything set right on the deck before you go to tune the amp. I would check all my connections that none are loose.
-
I was gonna guess a 6th at first but after looking at the height to width ratio of that opening and sqin of it I changed my mind to just a 4th. Pictures are deceiving tho without actually having a tape measure sitting in front of it. Guesstamating 4 in wide and 40 tall. Only time will tell.
Good Question =]
Is that a port? 6th order? Or just 2 sealed boxes for a 4th?
-
You have a pm from me sir
close to a 2:1Looking good. What kinda ratio?
-
Looking good. What kinda ratio?
SMD VM1 Longevity Question?????
in D'Amore Engineering - High Quality Car Audio Installation Tools & Accessories
Posted
That's good to hear. Go find a better "installer" now. Just a wise suggestion.