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xBevy

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Posts posted by xBevy

  1. I think you'd be fine. I'm at like 1200 watts I believe, (could be a little high or low), and stock everything except battery and I just have dimming lights when the bass hits and of course the volume up. So the big 3 does help a lot, so I'd think at worst? You'd have some dimming lights. But your alt is better (mine's like 90 amps) so should be fine.

    Thanks again for the input. I really don't have anything to compare it to so I just have to go off other peoples experience. I wouldn't mind upgrading my alt but it would be around 400 bucks and that is more than I'm spending on my sub so it would be kind of pointless. I wonder what would help the system more, to have a HO alternator or a better battery after the big 3 is done?

  2. Haha, the reason it seems like they didn't read it is because honestly, this is asked a lot. And they're pretty knowledgeable. For full potential, upgrade your battery, upgrade your wiring, and upgrade the alternator. I'd get a 2nd battery before the alternator but to each their own.

    As for the battery, most people will recommend what Snafu said. XS batteries. On the right they have a vehicle fit guide, not sure how accurate, but it recommends a D925. I'm not sure (I'd ask others on here, or wait for them to chime in on this specifically) if that'd be enough without a HO alternator. May need a bigger battery or more batteries if you wanna do 1500 rms. I'm new to the audio world myself so that's why not sure. I'm here to learn and give some advice on what I do know.

    Thanks for the input. I learned my stock alternator puts out 102 amps, so if anyone knowledgeable here can tell me if this will handle 1500 watts okay if I upgrade the big 3 and add a new battery?

  3. I don't think anyone really read my post, but thank's for the suggestions guys. I guess to be more clear I wasn't planning on adding a second battery, just upgrading my current battery to a better one. The big 3 is something I will definitely do to prevent hurting the rest of my cars electrical systems. The HO alternator I would only do if necessary. With that in mind does anyone have a specific suggestion as to what would be a good deep cycle battery for running 1500 rms? I am very new to car audio and any help is appreciated.

  4. I am going to purchase an Fi Q 12 and also a Sundown saz 1500dv2 for the amplifier. my car is a 1999 Oldsmobile Alero GLS coupe and as far as I know it has stock wiring and battery at this point. I'm wondering what would be best to upgrade to have my system run at its full potential? I was already thinking about getting a good deep cycle battery and upgrading the big 3, would a higher output alternator than my stock one be a good idea? Also if I do need to upgrade can someone point me in the right direction for a good battery and where to get good 1/0awg wire?

  5. x 2 on the crescendo 2k. i would even go for the 3500.. you will want more bass after you get used to it and you will only need another sub

    Ohm Load

    BC3500d

    1ohm

    3875

    2ohm

    1900

    4ohm

    1150

    get a dual 1Ohm wire it to 2Ohms when you are ready to get another sub wire them to 1Ohm. trust me on this you will want more bass after a few weeks of playing

    I'm not sure my electrical will put up with that many watts. I will probably end up upgrading the big 3 and a new battery but I don't really want to get a HO alternator. In your opinion would I be better off getting the crescendo bc2000 or the sundown saz1500? There is a price for watts difference but I know that sundown can do above rated power.

  6. These are definitely some noobish questions but I want to ask to make sure it is done correctly. Where is the best place to mount the little connector for the wires to run into, and where can I purchase one of these? Also with this size box will I need to worry about making any internal braces or is it small enough that I do not have to worry about that? Last question is I was reading somewhere it is better to make your sub flush with the box once it is actually mounted, something to do with not having resonant frequencies, could someone elaborate more on this and explain how to do this once I mount my sub? Answers to any/all of these questions would be greatly appreciated.

    Edit: If someone has a link for complete instructions for DIY sub enclosures that might be best just so I have something to follow from start to finish. I have looked but haven't found a very in depth one as of yet.

  7. Here is a suggestion for a single Fi Q 12":

    Enclosure Specifications:

    Fb = 32 Hz

    Vb = 2 ft^3

    External Height = 14 in

    External Width = 31 in

    External Depth = 16 in

    Port Width = 2 1/2 in

    Cut Sheet List:

    * All Dimensions in Inches.

    * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.

    External Enclosure Parts:

    2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 31 x 14

    Left & Right Sides = 13 3/4 x 12 1/2

    Top & Bottom = 31 x 13 3/4

    L Port Internal Assembly Parts:

    Front to Back = 11 1/4 x 12 1/2

    Extension = 19 1/4 x 12 1/2

    PBSB.jpg

    Let me know any questions.

    Thanks for the suggestion. Would this be a fairly simple design for someone who has never built one before? I'm willing to give it a try since it will be less expensive than having one shipped here.

  8. I'm looking for some help designing or finding an enclosure for an Fi Q 12. Here is some background.

    1 Fi Q 12 2 ohm running on a Sundown saz 1500dv2. my car is a 1999 Oldsmobile Alero GLS 2 door. I don't care if the box takes up most or all of my trunk space. I'm looking to have one around 2ft^3 tuned at 32hz per suggestion on fi website.

    Sub Specs: Fs: 34.2 Hz | 33.9 Hz Re: 0.7 Ohms/coil | 1.4 Ohms/coil Qms: 7.63 | 7.69 Qes: .39 | .39 Qts: .37 | .37 Mms: 249g | 253g Cms: 0.87mm/N | 0.87mm/N Sd: 481cm^2 | 481cm^2 Vas: 28.3 l | 28.3 l Spl: 86.5dB 1W/1m | 86.3dB 1W/1m Bl: 13.9 N/A | 19.65 N/A Xmax: 28mm Rms: 1500W Sealed box: .8-1.5 High QTScuft Ported box: 1.8-2.5 cuft @ 28-33Hz Sub OD: 12.500” Cut ID: 11.125” Mounting depth: 7.000” Displacement: 0.16cuft

    I am also open to having someone build the box and ship it to me if price is reasonable because I don't have the tools to do it myself. I can probably get them if I have to but I have never built a box before and I'm not sure how well it would turn out.

  9. Okay, I've pretty much put Hifonics out of the running since I want to do this setup right. So far I'm looking at the Sundown saz 1500 dv2 and the Audioque 2200d. Sundown is a little more pricey at 100 dollars more, I would buy both from authorized dealers brand new. Anyone else have ideas in and around this price range and power?

  10. Well Fi underrates their subs, they can take more power than what their site suggests which has been proven a lot, same with other companies. Yes the AQ does rated power, but just because an amp is rated at a certain amount, doesn't mean you have to make it produce that much power. With keeping your signal clean, and having a decent electrical behind the amp, I don't see you running into a problem.

    But there are many amps out there that will do around that power you are looking for, there isn't really a "best" to use. I just use AQ because they have been very reliable for me, and don't break the bank.

    Thanks for the input, I have heard a little about Audioque but not very much.I will look into the AQ2200 you recommended.

    My vote would be on the sundown saz 1500.

    I have heard nothing but good things about sundown's amps. Even that they are underrated on the power they actually put out at normal voltage.

  11. They've upped the suggested RMS since I have had one, interesting.

    I'd throw an AQ2200 on it and call it a day, it would take that like a champ.

    With me being somewhat nooby to car audio, would it be a good idea to get an amp that pushes that high over rated power? I know the cooling increases the handling capabilities but I don't want to accidently blow my stuff. I was hoping to stick below 1700 rms because at least that seems safe to me, but what do I know. Does the Audioque do rated power or is it overrated slightly?

  12. I am going to purchase an Fi Q 12. On the Fi website it says they are rated at 1500 rms, although I did some reading and noticed the old ones were only 1000rms. I will be getting the cooling option added, but nothing besides that. I have been looking around at different amps and have considered a few options. So far I've considered either a sax 1200 d or saz 1500 d from sundown audio. I've also thought about Hifonics Brutus brz1200.1d or brz1700.1d. I know that the sundowns are much higher quality and price isn't really an issue, but am I really getting that much more for the extra money?

    Some background info on my setup. I have a 1999 Oldsmobile Alero, everything electrical is stock right now but I may upgrade the big 3 and or other components depending on what amp I end up getting. I am also going to get my Fi Q in the 2 ohm version so I can wire it to 1 ohm. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated, I am pretty new to car audio. The amps above are only ideas, but I would not be looking to spend more than around 500 dollars on my amp.

    Edit: Forgot to add it will be going in a ported box, not sure about the size or tuning of the box yet, I am going to ask for advice for that in another section.

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