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Found 6 results

  1. Alright, So admittedly this is my first time doing a big three with 0 gauge, so this may be a newb problem. But I have a 2005 Mini Cooper S and the battery is in the back. I am running SHCA 0 gauge from alt to battery. The issue is SHCA Lug is so thick and with the stock lug too there isn't enough threads on the Alternator Bolt to get the nut back on. Its barely too short. Anyone have a simple solution? One additional question: I have one 300 amp fuse about 6" from the alt to the battery in the rear is about 12'. Do i need a second fuse by the battery? Thanks Guys!
  2. Good morning everyone. I'm posting this because I was up until 2am diagnosing a voltage drop problem, after installing my additional battery bank (2 Advanced AutoParts Platinum AGM's, 2 in rear, 1 up front). After installing the bank, I went from 13.8 volts at idle, to 13.4. I was scratching my head saying WTF??? Now, my voltage drop steadied out drastically, but I still lost a critical .4 volts somewhere. I want it back! What happened??? Well, I checked all my grounds in the rear. One from negative battery post of one battery straight to amp. Another from same negative battery post to chassis. All good! Move to the front of my car to check what I thought was my Big 3, or 4 in my case. Checked the Chassis to Negative battery post, Good. Checked Alt to Bat Positive, Good. Checked Alt casing to battery negative, Good. I thought this would suffice as an Engine to Chassis ground, as it was tied into the same ground wire that came from my chassis. MAN WAS I WRONG!!!! I FINALLY located the braided wire that went from the top of my engine block to the chassis. I added a 12" piece of 1/0 OFC from engine block ground, straight to the strut tower. BAM!!! SOCK!!! BOOM!!! (Remember the old Batman episodes? Some may be to young to remember. Anyway, off point now. Damn ADHD!), my voltage immediately came up from 13.45 to 13.9! I gained .45 volts with the addition of that one wire! HELL TO THE YEAH!!!! Now, I will be adding a second ground in the rear from the second battery in the bank, to the chassis. That battery has no grounds coming off it, so I will give it a dedicated ground as well. Maybe I can gain another 1/10th or .2 and finally get my voltage over 14? I will be back later to confirm my results... Just thought I would post this to reiterate the IMPORTANCE of proper grounding. Everyone, myself included, is always concerned about POWER POWER POWER, while proper grounding always takes a backseat in our heads. At least it does in mine, and I am being brutally honest right now. I have now learned that your grounds are just as, if not more important than the actual positive runs in the car. I can't stress enough how important is to ground properly people. If this helps at least one person out there, then I'm glad I took the time to post this. Good luck out there!
  3. Im upgrading my system soon so i am going to redo my big 3. I am getting a 320 amp Mechman alt and i have a XS power D3400 under the hood. I plan on running 2 runs of CCA Execution audio 0 gauge to my CT sounds 2500.1 and another run of 0 gauge for my CT sounds 125.4. So since im running multiple runs from my battery to my amps shouldn't i run multiple runs for my big 3? or at least 2 runs. i talked to the guy at Mechman and he said i would only need one run and i just wanted to get some opinions. if i only should do one run for my big 3 wouldnt OFC be a better choice? Any help is appreciated
  4. I am curious to what the most draw on the stock alternator that there has been. Trying to decide if I can get away with just upgrading batteries for now, and get a H/O alternator down the road. Plus I think it would be cool to see what the biggest system on stock alternator has been. Try to include: Amps put out by the stock alternator The batteries used What amplifiers Voltage drop while going full tilt If the big 3 (4,5 etc) has been done If there has been multiple runs of 1/0 Any other information that would that would be beneficial to know would be great.
  5. I've seen many videos of people running it into the all the fuses that are in the truck. But I don't know if it's necessary. Would it hurt if I just ran the positive of Alternator to the battery and the negative to the negative battery
  6. I have a car with a stock 80amp alternator, I will be running an saz1500d. I have a xsd1200 battery in the trunk (stock battery under hood) and stinger 4/0 wiring kit. I recently acquired some soundquest 1/0 cca off a friend for cheap and I was wondering if it would be effective wire for the big 3 in my car?
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