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Found 23 results

  1. I have ran one run of Knu OFC tinned wire which I’m kinda of scared to use since I’m used to using “CEA compliant” things( no where on the shield or website tells me anything about CEA, should I even be worried?), after watching EXO he says he likes to run his wire under the car just Incase the wire catches fire, will I be safe using this newer gen wire and the way I have it routed? The only fire wall access I could find was an oval and it was very difficult to get the wire to go in, that being said I’m afraid the grommet will wear and tear then expose metal after years of bumpy ass country roads, the rubber on the grommet has some small rips in it which is why I’m scared, thank you very much for any help!
  2. Starting a build log, dont know where to start this log so ill just post up pics. Btw im going for more of a SQ type of system. But keep in mind in a noob lol, just check out my posts from last year (joined around august i think) and you'll see how clueless i was lol. Theres my Mechman 240 alt with my Knu 4/0 (0000aught), ill be running 4/0 for big 3-4 and for front to back run to stock location rear battery.
  3. I'm starting a new build now, some of the old parts will be reused but I'm going for a cleaner, better sounding, smaller setup this time. The old setup was just killer on the suspension of the car and it had to go. New equipment: Kenwood DDX371 DC Audio 90.4 DC Audio 1.2k Crescendo RTS-1 tweeters Silver Flute 6.5's Fi SSD 12 knukonceptz 1/0 OFC Sky High Car Audio RCA, speaker wire, ring terminals, primary wire XS power D5100R Northstar NSB-AGM24M DC Power 180amp HP series alternator Audio Technix 60mil deadener I need to cover these sections up, I'm going to try and buy the side carpet from honda if it's not crazy expensive. Update 12/22/15 Everything is here now, I will start working on the box here soon. Box has been built, 2.3cu, 33hz tune.
  4. I change things a lot. I call it a hobby more than a project with a goal. I will try to find some old pics to post first to show some of how things have come along before posting the current system.
  5. Decided to throw my pioneer AVH-P4300DVD in the new truck, I have more plans also but this will be a slow build. I just pulled the trim about 5 min ago. I'll report back when I'm done For anyone who hasn't seen the truck Stock radio This trim is a pain in the ass I'll post back here when I'm done, working on it now
  6. This has been a two year build I started in high school, I have finally graduated and I have a small system that is mostly finished. I have a few more plans for it during collage and maybe a big rebuild after collage. The new build has been completed and starts on page 3! Later on I'll even do some fiberglass a-pillars and other cool things! My Current system: -(2) PSI Audio 12's -Soundstream Rubicon 2500 -Soundstream Rubicon 800 5 Channel -Soundstream Mids and Highs -Fosgate P3 Shallow 8" -(2) Kinetic HC600 Batteries -Sky High OFC 0 gauge wire w/ Big 3 -Sky High OCF 12 gauge wire for all the speakers. -Sky High OFC 4 gauge for the subs. -Sky High 14 gauge primary wire for all other electrical connections, -200 Amp HO Alternator -125 sqft of GT Mat 80 Mil Sound deadener. This is my Jeep Cherokee, my first car. As for my system, I'm running two Fosgate HX2 12's with PSI 1000 watt recones. Soundstream Rubicon 2500 bass amp and a Soundstream Rubicon 5.800 for mids and highs. Soundtream mids and highs, Clarion eq, Sony head unit, all Sky High OFC 0 gauge wire, and an HO alternator. As for the build... I did it in a few stages, getting a system to play, and then doing some rebuilding, and then playing it again. I started out two years ago with the original Fosgate HX2's, I built my first box that was about 4.4 cubes ported. It was tuned to around 32Hz but would only play down to around 35Hz so once I had heard a few other systems I knew I had a fail lol. But I did use t-nuts and reinforced the inside of the box! Carpeted it and then wired the subs to 1 ohm for my new amp. I'm still running this amp, two years of hitting hard and it's never let me down! And then did some wiring upgrades...started with Walmart 8 gauge and then jumped to the big stuff!
  7. Alright i picked up this 2005 Ford Explorer XLS in mid February. this is what Ive been waiting for. My goal is clear.....hairtrick. I love low tuning and am not worried about numbers whatsoever. Anyway heres the equipment that I have gathered so far: 4 Crescendo pwx6 4 Arc Audio Kar ks5006 Knukonceptz 1/0 awg OFC JBL 4 channel Crescendo Symphony 4 channel 1 XS D6500 under hood 2 D1200 in the back Knu fuseholders stinger voltmeter Clarion eqs 746 Pioneer DEH8300UB Knu RCA's DC Power 270 amp alt 2 15" Sundown zv3 SAZ-3500D 35w 5000K low beams from DDM what i still need: sub amp(s?) Im thinking Sundown SAZ3500D, AQ 3500, or the new Crescendo 3500 coming out soon. 2 15s that I cant wait to order hopefully tonight or tomorrow. Lots of sound deadener from either Audiowrap or Second Skin. 5.25s from RF. Few accessories such as small gauge wire, box building,switches, 4 chan distribution block, orbital and detailing supplies (all Meguiars), and a dremel just cuz Ive always wanted one. On to pics.....
  8. Here is my build log. The vehicle is a 98 GMC ext cab K1500, with the 3rd door. This build was supposed to be 1 Sundown X 15 on 1 SQ 2200 until SSA had a pretty awesome deal when the zv4's first came out that i couldn't pass up. I already order the 2200 thinking I was getting an X so the ZV4 is going to be a little under powered. On to the pics.. The Truck. 182k and still going strong She's no pavement Princess First day I got her Next to the Wife's Sd-2 8" A Picture of all the Original Equipment Singer 250 vs Stock Installed with XS Power D3400 Started with the false floor connected to the original seat belt bolts. I wanted a low end monster so I Built a box that was 4.2 cubes net tuned to 26hz. It easily played 20hz and fell off after about 37hz. The lows were pretty awesome for a single sub. In the truck
  9. Hey there! I guess it's time for me start a build log on my 2002 Dodge Dakota! I got the truck back in September for dirt cheap. Only problem was that the engine was blown! Me and my dad took on the project and swapped in a remanufactured motor (4.7 for those who are interested). Anyways, this isn't gonna be an insane build with a wall or a blow through. It's my daily driver, so I need to keep it practical. My system before this build is as follows: - Sony Head Unit (Unsure of model) - Polk Audio PA880 - 12" Alpine Type R SWR1243D - Prefab Box - Fierce Car Audio 4 gauge amplifier wiring kit - The truck came stock with the amplified Infinity sound system - Carquest Battery My Current Plan is: - Crescendo Audio BC2000d (UPS Man should be delivering it tomorrow!) - Fi Q12 D2 - Optima Yellow Top or an XS Power 3400 - Rockford Fosgate 1/0 gauge power kit - Eventually I'd like to replace the Sony Head Unit with something a little better - I'll start thinkin about mids and highs once the Bass is taken care of The Polk amp sounds nice, but it has to be the most unefficient thing on this planet! I don't have access to a DD1, but I did use a DMM to set my gains. The thing heats up after 30 minutes at a reasonable volume to the point where I can't keep my hand on it for a few seconds. I've even set the gains a tad under what the amp is rated at. Right now it's probably giving around 450-475 watts rms to the type r, and it's wired at 2 ohms. I've read the amps tend to run hot, so I'm just glad it's being replaced tomorrow!Onto the pictures! About 1 or 2 months ago, I heard my first system that was actually loud (SnowDrifter's 2 Crossfire 12's while they were in his Jeep) and ever since I wasn't satisfied with my one Type R and the prefab box. I started looking into ported enclosures and how to tune them and all that. I want to stick with a single 12, and I want something loud that will still sound good, so I've decided on getting a Fi Q 12 with the cooling package, extra spider and the internal leads. Before I get that though, I need something to put it in and something to power it with. I was on vacation the past three weeks and I spent quite a bit of time playing around on Torres and Sketchup trying to find the right box for my truck that would work well with the Fi.This is what I came up with: Two nights ago I went over to a buddies house to start cutting out the sheets for the box. A skill saw and a roto zip later, most of the cuts were less than awesome and the hole in the baffle was too big... I'm gonna be using the Type R in the enclosure for now while I upgrade stuff to get ready for the Fi. The Fi has a bigger cutout that the Type R, so that's why it ended up huge.So, I figured that even though my first box isn't gonna be perfect, I might as well just start over and just take my time on it. I was also planning on buying myself a router this morning, and when I asked my dad if he wanted to split the cost with me, he told me that we already had one! Definitely a nice surprise!The surround on my driver door speaker was completely seperated from the basket, so it would rattle a ton if it ever played around or below 120hz. I had my high pass filter set to 140 to try to phase it out. I had some Kicker 5 1/4" speakers layin around from my old car, so I decided to get some practice on the router and I made some Speaker rings! Fits well! They aren't pretty, but the door panels do a pretty good job of hiding them You can see the seperated surround on the speaker on the right They sound great and I can actually keep my High Pass down around 80 now!
  10. Hey all. This is my very first build log and first time system build for my personal vehicle. If you have any tips or suggestions on how to make this build log better, please let me know. I’m willing to learn and make this build log enjoyable for everyone. The vehicle I’ll be using in this upcoming build will be my 2013 Ford F-150 Super-cab truck. I bought the truck brand-new for only $28,000 out the door! That’s one heck of a deal for a V-8, 4x4 truck that’s brand-new. I’ll be doing this build in two stages. The first stage is to add a subwoofer(s) to the truck. Stage one will take approximately 2 months to gather and install everything. Stage two will be to add new front 6.5” component speakers in the front doors and 1” silk tweeters in the A-pillar (where the existing stock tweeter sits). This latter stage will happen either during the summer or winter of 2015. Stage 1: Adding a subwoofer(s) to the truck! I plan on keeping the stock radio since I have sync, steering wheel controls, and Sirius. So I needed a LOC that was well made and would work well in my situation. So, I chose Audio Control’s LC2i (which I still need to purchase). I can use this for both stages as it has a 2 channel output for the main speakers (front), and a separate bass output for subwoofers. So technically speaking, Audio Control’s LC2i is a 4 channel LOC. But that’s a moot point right now. I needed a mono amplifier that is reliable and under-rated (RMS wise). So I just purchased a Sundown Audio SAE-1000D V2 amplifier. Depending on the subwoofer(s) I go with, I will either be running the amp at 2 Ohms or 1 Ohm. I’ll do more of a review when I receive the product. As for subwoofer(s), I can’t decide between 3 different brands; PSI, Sundown Audio, or Fi. I’ll most likely be using a 12” PSI Passive Radiator. But if I can fit a ported enclosure then I’ll go that route. The enclosure will be made out of ¾” Baltic Birch MDF. Other than that, I’ll have the subwoofer(s) and enclosure type decided soon. Since I’m doing a 2 stage build, I decided I should tackle the issue with dimming lights before it ever happens. Having overkill is never a bad thing. So I went ahead and bought Knukonceptz 0 AWG Power Amp kit to do the BIG 3 with. I’ll post before and after install along with before and after voltage (at the battery with vehicle running). Also from Knukonceptz, I ordered their Complete 4 Gauge Amp Kit with all OFC wires to power the amplifier. That's all for my first post in my very first build log. Thanks for reading this. Stay tuned for further updates later in the month!
  11. Got the idea to do a nice budget wall build. Wasnt what subs to go with at first tossing back and forth between a lot of different brands. Went with the sundown because simply they make great products and have a great warrenty. Current Equipment: Head Unit- Pioneer touch screen navi Components- kicker Wire- 1/0 Knukonceptz with BIG 3 Sub amp- Soundstream Ta1.3000d Components amp- NONE Subs- (x2) Alpine Type R 15's Planned Equipment: Head Unit- Pioneer AppRadio 3 Components- Soundstream Wire- x2 runs 2/0 welding cable Sub amp- Soundstream Ta1.3000d
  12. So this is my buddies car Ive been doing a install on. Been kind of an ongoing project for few months now Id say. Simple reason behind the time being so long is A) waiting on product here and there, Its a lot of work, C) My actual work time is very limited with his work schedule along with being a Professional Arm wrestler. So Usually I get 1-2 nights a week to work on his car from 7pm til daylight when the birds start to chirp. The car is getting close to being built (well the box is at least) lol So heres a little list of the product being used: Subs: Two Fi BTL N3 12s dual .7ohm coils (and Scott at Fi was nice enough to send a free pair of recones along with the subs) Amps: Two Sundown SAZ-4500D's (strapped at .7ohms). Two Sundown SAX-100.4s. Mids: Four Sundown NeoPro 8s (2 in each front door). Possibly a NeoPro 10 in each rear yet, not sure. Highs: Four Selenium ST-200 supertweets (2 in dash, 1 in each front door) possibly another tweet in each rear door, not sure. Mids and highs will be ran active. Battery: Three or Four XS Power D3100's (maybe more if needed) Headunit: Pioneer AVH-P4300 Wiring: Two runs Positive, Two runs Negative front to back Knukonceptz flex OFC 1/0. Roughly 260+ feet of Monster Cable 12awg for mids/highs. Kicker 3channel RCA's, Knukonceptz OFC 4awg for mids/high amps. AudioTecnix 4 or 8awg for sub wires. Stinger volt meter Sound Deadener: A little bit of everything Trunk was done before with "80mil Zillmat" that was actually asphalt based not a butyl/asphalt mixture like advertised, and was about 50ish mil thick.. Also got some Secondskin Damp Pro 80mil, and a good 50ish sq feet of 80mil AudioTechnix (need to order more for the 4 doors and roof). Alternator: Still not sure. DC Power XP series more than likely (seems I have no problem getting product from there). Otherwise maybe a Mechman. Whichever brand it is, It will be 300+amp with a hairpin stator for sure. Think the stock alt is 160 or 180amp hairpin does pretty good for now. Wood: Four sheets of 100% Baltic Birch 13ply. Not that cheap 40$ stuff most people buy that is plywood. The real deal stuff that uses no bogus fir filler and costs $75 per sheet and often times a special ordered wood... Think thats about it for the product, besides the 3 gallons of resin so far, bunch of body filler, fiberglass mat/cloth, fleece, greatstuff, black vinyl, spray adhesive, brushes, lots and lots of sandpaper, and all those other little supplies that add up very fast and often overlooked. Not sure where to start with the pictures... Ive recently switched phone carriers so I could get the Samsung Galaxy Note, and Im sure I lost a few pics here and there.. This car is being built tough, and done right with no skimping on this or that, or rushed to get it done. It is not a competition vehicle in anyway, just a daily driver. Air shocks in the rear are already needed and thats without the subs/amps installed (just box and battery weight). The box was built and dry fitted in my garage with clamps, than built inside the car. Alot of the box is 2,3,and 4 layers thick in spots. Every seem/joint is being overlapped for added strength. It is also completly sealed off from the trunk. No trunk rattles at all. The previous box I installed broke the trunk latch and tore the sheet metal and has been fixed 2 times now with 1/8inch thick steel. Ok now onto the pics... LOL
  13. Hey install guys! I am Steve as few of you know but I have a build log on another forum. I'm getting ready to set up the frontstage and have a question about running some speaker wire. First off, running a 2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx hatchback. Front doors are components, rear doors are coax. I have some Infinity Kappa speakers for all of them (pictures) and a Sundown 125.4 to run them, all 2 ohm. Heres the meat of it. The amp is going in the trunk, and running 4 runs of wire to each speaker. Now I have the money for and am considering running Knu twisted speaker wire to all of them. I like how it has a second layer of insulation that would prevent any damage during removal or anything like that. Otherwise I would just run their regular blue speaker wire. For you install guys, this 12g wire has the outside diameter of 9mm!!! KAR12SS 9mm (.354) Do you think that I would be able to really get this into each of the doors? Or do you guys like this wire just for show?
  14. Out with the RF 300-2 and the 500-2 and in with a Crescendo C-1100/4, Looking for more headroom for future upgrades. Next will be the sub box. Hard Maple box 1.5 inches thick at 1.5 ft for single 10. at 38hz. Ship Monday night to receive today Cody is the Man!!
  15. So it mught still be a month or so until i really get a chance to start because i need to find a place to do it and my garage is too small and isnt heated but i figure id start the thread now and show you all whats going in there
  16. RickyFriery97


    Have some 1/0 wiring laying around id like to sell 2 long strands, and some shorter pieces. 7 pieces in total, some have terminals soldered on. id like to sell all to one person all blue wiring strand is 14ft with a terminal on 1 end (black boot) strand is 12.5ft with no terminals 27" terminal on both ends (black boots) 15.5" terminal on both ends (red boots) 33.5" terminal both ends (black boots) 32" terminal 1 side (black boot) over 35ft of wire added up $100 shipped for it all.
  17. I recently came back from a deployment in Afghanistan, and on my free time I spent designing my first real build. I've had my share of entry level systems, and this time decided to step it up a bit. I wanted something that would do well both in SQ and SPL, and wanted to keep it strictly Rockford. I was going to get a T2 for the Sub, but while researching I decided to preorder Sundown's Zv4. I contemplated on what vehicle I was going to put all this in, and wanted to stay loyal to Honda, so when I redeployed back to the states I was able to find a 2000 Acura Integra. So here is what I came up with. HU-Kenwood KDC-X794 Front- RF T2652-s Rear- RF PPS4-6 Sub- Sundown Zv4 dual 2 ohm Mid and Highs Amp- RF T600-4 Sub Amp- RF t1500bdcp Wiring- Knu 0g dual amp kit. Karma SS 4c rca. Karma SS 2 rca. Karma SS 16g. Karma SS 8g. Knu Kolossus Fleks 0g for big 3. Electrical- Big 3 upgrade, HO alternator, and two D5100R's. One under the hood, one in the rear. Sound Deadener- Knu 80mil 52.5 sq. ft. So I purchased the vehicle on the 1st of June and immediately started tearing it apart. Some of these pictures have been through out the last week plus. So here's my First Build Log.
  18. 2005 Dodge ram 1500 single cab. radio: Avh2300dvd (bluetooth adapter and video bypass) door speakers: crescendo pwx 8s x4 and crescendo ft1 tweeters x2 4 channel amp: audioque120.4 sub amp: audioque 2200d subs: sa 12 d4 x4 knukonceptz wiring this was what we originally came up with (some changes have been made since we started, but its the same general concept. so we started by stripping the entire truck out. and cutting out the center seat and started building: and it wasnt long before it started to take some shape went ahead and started out with some kerfing: and then after enough evenly spaced cuts, it becomes a 90 degree angle more coming now
  19. Product: Knukonceptz KNF60 Distribution Block Manufactured by: Knukonceptz Recieved from: Knukonceptz As you guys well know car audio is an ever changing hobby. You may decide to add an amp to your install, or a secondary battery, and there is nothing more frustrating than having to completely re-do your install just to add an additional electrical component. If you take the time to make fiberglass bezels or beauty panels for your wire distribution the thought of making a change to that distribution is terrifying, as you would then have to redo all of your work. Well now these worries are a thing of the past! Check out my video review of the Knukonceptz KNF60 distribution block. If you would like an additional product reviewed in the future let me know! Mark
  20. Mlcantin

    Knuknonceptz RCAs?

    What line of rca cable by Knukonceptz rca line should i purchase?
  21. Got a new car and I am just starting my audio install and other cool accessories! Check it out!
  22. Just wanted to see what you guys thought about the 0ga KCA wire from knukonceptz.
  23. guess i will finally start my own build thread, tired of waiting on my bro(gotz1lung) to change the title for me lol. if you havent seen what all we've done to it so far. you can find it here...http://www.stevemead...-2003-explorer/ this time i am going slow and doing most of the stuff on my own, which has been a pain to say the least with back problems and other medical issues. this is not going to look good or go fast at all until the end old set up amp DC 5.0k box, amp, lv5 this setup will be using the same box, only painted now. last year i scored a 148.3 at the headrest in AS3(engine off) and 130 in PnP3. this year i will also be competing in IASCA bass boxing and we have to have full range music playing to the crowd so i will be doing external pods that hang off my roof rack with 2 6x9s each powered off a 2 channel. we know this box has more in it testing last year. DC Derricks teg powering my sub score legal on music...bottoming out bad collection external setup minus 2 6x9s 4 way full range(cheap ass i know) the sub http://www.stevemead...71-my-new-baby/G