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Found 18 results

  1. im adding a battery in the trunk and ran out of 1/0 for the ground but i have plenty of 4 guage can i use a few runs of it to ground the battery?
  2. Hi! I'm rebuilding my Punto for next year events. I bought it 5 years ago so let's start from there: First system including Ultimate T2 12" subwoofer, Twister TW1000 "1000W" amplifier and Hertz low end 6,5" coaxials and JVC head unit. Then there was Pioneer DEH-P5100UB head unit, better Hertz 6,5" coaxials with Focus Acoustics Formula FX-4150 amplifier, SPL Dynamics XTR-380D2S 15" subwoofer, Focus Acoustics Formula FX-1500D 1500W amplifier and Optima 55Ah battery. In the next step I upgraded speakers to 6,5" Hertz Energy ESK163L.4 3-way component system, made bigger and better subwoofer box, added 20Ah BSB battery and some tuning parts. Next I changed Kenwood KDC-BT92SD head unit, added another set of 6,5" Hertz Energy ESK163L.4 3-way component system speakers to rear, changed FX-4150 amplifier to SPL Dynamics ICE-150.4 and 15" XTR subwoofer to Focus Acoustics Black MK5 15D2 15". Then I upgraded the whole system and started to work with the interior. New system: Optima YELLOW TOP 55Ah and 38Ah batteries Focus Acoustics FX-2500D 2500W amplifier Focus Acoustics Black MK5 15D2 15" subwoofers x2 SPL Dynamics ICE-150.4 amplifiers x2 Hertz ESK163L.4 component speaker systems x2 SPL Dynamics SPL-HD25T Horn Loaded Compressor Tweeters x2 Match PP72W-D subwoofers as midbasses at front x4 To be continued in new post
  3. Good day SMD community, About to undertake electrical wiring upgrade on my 2017 F-150 3.5L EcoBoost XLT. Alternator is not super accessible so I'm thinking this may be tricky and wondering if anyone else has done big 3 on a 2015 up f-150 and can provide some direction. Pics and tricks for this specific vehicle would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  4. Ive tried changing DMM leads, i made sure all connections are bare metal, etc etc. Ive found that how you orient your +/- leads on the DMM can change your measured continuity. Ive checked grounds all over the electrical system, with varied results. If i place the + DMM lead on the battery - and the - DMM lead on some grounded location, i get full continuity. If i place the - DMM lead on the battery - and the + DMM lead on some grounded location, i get a variety of values, usually 1.2 to 3.7 ohms, depending on location. WHYYYY??? Please, only reply if you have a logical response. Thank you. Maybe the fact i have the battery grounds still attached to the batteries is a problem. Going to test the same ground cables with no batteries attached this weekend to see what if i can repeat these measurements.
  5. I searched the forums a bit this morning and didn't find a definitive answer: I am connecting the D3400 in the engine bay to my D3100 bank in the rear. The positive runs are fused at each end of the run (from front to rear). But, is there any need to fuse the negative wire runs? I already understand the concerns with fusing in general: -Fuses add resistance, possibly decreasing SPL -Fuses add safety, helping prevent a fire when something goes wrong Any knowledgeable advice is appreciated. I completely understand that I can get away without fusing the negative, I'm wondering if there is a legitimate reason to do it.
  6. Hello everyone. I am trying to build a box tuned to 30 Hz for three Ground zero GZRW 30 XSPL D2 speakers. I believe best box size is 180 liters, but i don't know what size slot port should be. can anyone help me? Number of drivers : 3 subwoofer Xmax = 40 mm thank you! edit: Is it okay, if i will use 400 cm^2 vent area?
  7. So I just got a saz 1200d and I need to upgrade my ground point because I feel like even though I got all the paint off, the seat mount isn't the best. Any of you guys with a blazer (4 door) have a better ground than the seat mount inside the car? If not as a last resort I guess I can drill and use a grommet then mount to the frame. If I do it that way will I have any trouble with corrosion using solid copper sky high car audio lugs?
  8. All, I have a dual alt setup in my Tahoe, with a 370XP from DC solely for my subs. 2 weeks ago, I bought a 3rd Crescendo F31 to make sure my voltage was stiff for the 5500BC that I am waiting on. The funny thing is, when I added the 3rd battery, my voltage dropped by .2 It used to sit at 14.8 solid on 2 F31 and drop to 13.6 full tilt, Idling Now, it sits at 14.6 and only drops to 13.8, Idling So it helped but now my voltage sits .2 lower? I have 1 run of 1/0 Knu from the alternator to the battery bank, the batteries are grounded to each other, as well as to the chassis, full copper terminals, paint stripped to bare metals etc Anything I can do to get that .2 volts back? I know it's nitpicky but it bothers me. Equipment is listed in my signature All help is appreciated!
  9. Hey Guys, Before I start I want to thank everybody for taking the time to check this out. I hate resorting to populating a forum with my problems but in this case, I seem to be at a loss. I have searched both the forum and Google tirelessly with no reward so I decided to make this account strictly for this issue because I feel this place has the most educated users. I apologize in advance, I don't know how much I'll be able to contribute to this forum. Let it be known that I have found others with my problem that have participated in lengthy discussion about this issue with no results. However, I feel the host wasn't willing to go to the full extent that I am to solve this issue. I'll work with y'all if you work with me. THE PROBLEM: Whether I am idling or driving, my subwoofers (both) will briefly cut out on powerful bass notes. The problem can be fixed (sorta) if I lower the bass level on my LOC. While this may be a temporary fix, I feel it is just a band-aid to a bigger issue. The amplifier does not go into protect mode, nor does it turn off. The LOC does not display [MAX SIGNAL]. The bass from the speakers continues to play. The issue is isolated at the woofer setup. My gain on the amp is at 0 as well as my bass boost. The subwoofers play respectably but my old Type R's were more impressive (laughable, I know). The excursion of the woofers is not the least bit concerning so I know they aren't being overpowered. They should have a lot more power in them. *Also, I previously had a single 1 OHM DVC woofer in my vehicle that had the same issue. The subwoofers are not bad, I know that much. MY SETUP: Amplifier - Alpine MRP M2000 (Stable at 2 OHMS) / Woofers - 12" FI SSD 2 OHM DVC x2 / LOC - AudioControl LC2 / Wiring - 0 Gauge KnuKonceptz / Headunit - Stock / Speakers - Stock / Battery - Stock / Alternator - Stock / Big 3 - No I have it grounded to the trunk brace (not directly the frame but it's solid and sanded). I will not resort to a capacitor because I don't believe in them. A new battery and the Big 3 could help but others I've seen with this issue have tried both to no avail. I hope I haven't left anything out. I'm determined to kill this issue in this thread. Thanks again for all the help. If you guys need more info/pics/videos just let me know. Thank you.
  10. Good morning everyone. I'm posting this because I was up until 2am diagnosing a voltage drop problem, after installing my additional battery bank (2 Advanced AutoParts Platinum AGM's, 2 in rear, 1 up front). After installing the bank, I went from 13.8 volts at idle, to 13.4. I was scratching my head saying WTF??? Now, my voltage drop steadied out drastically, but I still lost a critical .4 volts somewhere. I want it back! What happened??? Well, I checked all my grounds in the rear. One from negative battery post of one battery straight to amp. Another from same negative battery post to chassis. All good! Move to the front of my car to check what I thought was my Big 3, or 4 in my case. Checked the Chassis to Negative battery post, Good. Checked Alt to Bat Positive, Good. Checked Alt casing to battery negative, Good. I thought this would suffice as an Engine to Chassis ground, as it was tied into the same ground wire that came from my chassis. MAN WAS I WRONG!!!! I FINALLY located the braided wire that went from the top of my engine block to the chassis. I added a 12" piece of 1/0 OFC from engine block ground, straight to the strut tower. BAM!!! SOCK!!! BOOM!!! (Remember the old Batman episodes? Some may be to young to remember. Anyway, off point now. Damn ADHD!), my voltage immediately came up from 13.45 to 13.9! I gained .45 volts with the addition of that one wire! HELL TO THE YEAH!!!! Now, I will be adding a second ground in the rear from the second battery in the bank, to the chassis. That battery has no grounds coming off it, so I will give it a dedicated ground as well. Maybe I can gain another 1/10th or .2 and finally get my voltage over 14? I will be back later to confirm my results... Just thought I would post this to reiterate the IMPORTANCE of proper grounding. Everyone, myself included, is always concerned about POWER POWER POWER, while proper grounding always takes a backseat in our heads. At least it does in mine, and I am being brutally honest right now. I have now learned that your grounds are just as, if not more important than the actual positive runs in the car. I can't stress enough how important is to ground properly people. If this helps at least one person out there, then I'm glad I took the time to post this. Good luck out there!
  11. Hello guys/gals, I'm installing the rest of my electrical in the rear today, which consists of two AGM's and the wiring coming from the 3rd AGM up front. All will be run in parallel. Trying to make it look as nice as possible, while keeping it portable. I have to take my subs and electrical out the car when the boss is in town. I know, it sux... Anyway, my question is this. I have a RF Dist Block, (1) 1/0 in, (2) 1/0 out... I wanted to ground to my original grounding point on the chassis behind my back seat, and also, run a ground wire directly to my negative battery post. So, I will have two ground wires, one coming from NEG battery post, one coming from chassis, into the Distro Box. Then one wire to the Ground on my amplifier, a SoundQubed Q2200.1. My other amp is grounded fine up front, so not worried about that one. Do I need to fuse the Batt - to Distro block? Or do I keep all ground wires, even coming from battery, non-fused? I know where to put the fuses on the POSITIVE side, all good there. So, I don't think I fuse the grounds, but I want to make sure for peace of mind. I don't need an explosion in the rear of my car! Any help will be appreciated!
  12. I've read though out all the forms and have yet to find a match for what I'm doing. Here's my set-up.....I have a upgraded alternator, upgraded battery under the hood, and 2 BIG ASS batteries in the trunk, 2 kicker 2500.1 and 2 kicker 650.4. My vehicle is roughly 20 feet long from bumper to bumper so I have purchased 75 ft each of 0 gauge positive and negative wire. My question is, what would be the best way to wire my positive and negative wire? I have dual 3-outlets for the 0 gauge to run off my battery under the hood, and I will be installing the big 3. Would it be best to run the remaining 0 gauge ground from the hood battery straight to the back or just run my ground for the battery's in the back from the frame, through the trunk of my vehicle.
  13. my buddy wrecked his car and he needed money bad. so he sodl me some of his car audio, I bought a sundown saz 1500d v2 with 1 28ft., 2 10ft, 4 2ft 1/0 scha for 300 bucks ok so now I have a fusing and dual input question my head is telling me that ill take the needed fusing and divide the need fusing by 2 for the 2 runs so 160 for the saz and another 40 for my mids and high amp. ill need 200 amps fo fusing so ill have 100 amp fuse on each run right? and im ordering toolmaker dual inputs is there any fuse blocks that will take 2 1/0 cables and use a single fuse? not needed just would prefer?
  14. Hey everyone, recently I have been having troubles with getting a really good solid ground for my amp. I have a 1995 Pontiac Firebird/Trans Am. The car is a uni-body. Does anyone own a firebird/camaro that has dealt with this, or does anyone have suggestions for the best ground point in my car? Thanks in advance!
  15. Okay so im plannin out a shell design for my trunk and i have decided to lay down 2x4's / OR a 1/2 thick piece of mdf. First question is, since this is a relatively low power build, (2k>) which would be better to use as a base 2x4's or MDF? Second question... I have 1 and only 1 place to ground my amps inside the trunk, and its right behind my seats. So how should i approah this because i am going to have 2 amps, and an extra battery. So i SHOULD ground the battery, then geound the anos off the battery, RIGHT? Third question. Since i only have 1 spot to ground and no other bolts in my trunk area, how am i suppose to mount the MDF in the trunk? Do i just lay it over the sound deadener im putting in or what? Is it absolutely needed to bolt the wood to the floor, then the box to the wood? Any suggestions and answers are welcome! And if you need more info let me know!
  16. Okay, so to start this off, I have installed multiple car audio systems in my car, it is a 1998 Lexus GS300, I have never had an issue with grounding before but now it seems I can not ground any amplifer to any bare metal and make it work... I have tried multiple spots to ground my amps. First I had a Kicker 400.1 that worked fine in my truck, then I put it into my Lexus and it started kicking off every 5 minutes, same grounding point as my last amplifer, Hifonics 1700.1D and it never kicked off. Since then, I have grounded my amp to the chassis, the strut tower, seat belt bolt, and manufacturer grounding points, none of them work, they all have to high of a resistance for either my Kicker amp (which I sold) and my new rockford fosgate 4 channel amp. I plan on doing a major install with 2 more amps and 2 more batteries, but I cannot do this until I get my grounding issue fixed... anyone have any idea where I can ground too? the only other thing there is the engine... and that's obviously way too far away from the trunk to run a ground. Please Help!
  17. Playerlarry09


    ok this may be stupid i dont know but before i do it i would like to know is a self tapping screw safe to use on a terminal ground? on a amp, battery anything needing grounded. im looking for a sold way to ground but drilling holes is hard to do being able to get to it from below my truck (things in the way) thanks for any help