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Showing results for tags 'mitsubishi'.
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Hey, all! This is my baby. It's a 2003 Mitsubishi Montero that I drove in high school; I recently bought it back from my folks for a couple grand, and its whole purpose is to be destroyed with bass. She's in decent shape for 140k miles. A few years ago, I had a c-pillar wall in this thing with 2 Fi BTL N2 18s on a n AQ3500.1 at .7. It did 152s with garbage electrical, and was super fun. I've always dreamed of walling this thing at the b pillar, so here we go. All I saw here was potential. Time to rip all this shit out. The process has begun. Carpet cut, headliner removed, and roof braces foamed. There's quite a decent amount of space in this bitch. Maaaany more pics to come. Just gotta get them on Imgur. Stay tuned!
Okay so I would like to buy some new lug nuts to spice up my wheels a tad and I can't decide on what color I should go with. I like neo chrome, but I'm not sure how they would look with my Barcelona Red Eclipse and the Bronze wheels.. I'm putting these in the center of my wheels and I can't decide if adding black lugs would be over doing the black on the wheels. What do you guys think? Here is a picture of my Eclipse below.
Hey all, Just finished installing some subs for a friend. He bought two Rockford P2D2's and a Prime R1200 amp to run the subs at a final impedance of 2 ohms at about 800w RMS. The car we installed it in is a 2011 mitsubishi lancer with the OEM premium 710w rockford fosgate sound system with a factory 10" long throw dvc sub running 150w rms (according to factory specs). Among the aftermarket equipment he purchased was a high power NVX line out converter which we installed parallel with the factory sub. The LOC is supposedly rated at 300w peak. I have a handheld oscilloscope which i used to analyze the signal coming from the factory system. On his headunit, he has a standard bass control, and another bass control called "Sub Punch" which can be set from 1-6. This control gives the factory sub more of a "punch" i suppose. Anyways, I hooked up my o-scope to the wires going to the factory sub and then played a 40hz 0 DB tone over bluetooth. Upon cranking the volume, the signal started to clip off. Without touching the controls, I see the signal start to decrease by itself to the point at where its not clipped. We cranked the volume to the max volume of 45, and the same result was seen. A clipped signal followed by an automatic decrease to a clean signal. We even put the bass and Sub punch to max to see the same thing. Only difference is that when the volume was at max, I saw an extremely clipped signal. Once again though, it recovered itself to a clean signal. The oem amplifier has some DSP built in or something. I have never seen an amp do something quite like this before. Most of the aftermarket are dumb and don't care if the signal is clipped or not
OK! So this is my first car and i'm looking to get some a new sound system. I already have a "650W Premium 9 Speaker System" but it doesn't hit the way i want it to hit. The amp itself is a headache because it auto levels the music . So I'm looking to replace the amp and the subwoofer with 2 12's or 2 15's and a new Amp. But I have no clue where to start. Right now i have 2 Rockford Fosgate P2D2-12's with a Rockford Fosgate R500X1D in my cart on amazon... box and all. I want something that knocks, I want to keep my current speakers in the doors and the navigation but i have no clue what to do. I looked all over the internet but this driving me nuts.