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Found 9 results

  1. Hello, I need some opinions on if i should add rear speakers to my vehicle build or not! Currently getting, Avhx8500 head unit MLK2TW hertz Mille 6.5 components W6V3 in HO enclosure I get a insanely great price on the MLK2TW component set and looking at grabbing a set for the rears as well. The sub is going in the backseat facing the front of the car right behind the front seats, Still room for two passengers in the rear. My friend and i go out driving all the time and i dont want them to have no rear speakers if it will make a huge difference. If i grab rears they will all be run off a HD6004 and if i only get fronts it will be a slash300/4v3. Should i get rear speakers as well?
  2. I was wondering what are some ways in which I can get better sound out of my mids in my door. Car is a 95 Trans Am, the JL Audio mids and tweeters are in the factory locations. I have seen some people using polyfill and I have seen some people use deadening. What all can I do to seal up the door as good as possible so I get the best response from my mids?
  3. Hello everybody, I'm planning on doing a build in my 2007 Chevy Impala soon. I plan to put my Obsidian 15" v3 D2 in a box, with specs that are yet to be determined, and power it with a Sundown SCV-1500D. Also, I'm installing a Kenwood DDX372BT in the dash. However, the part I'm currently looking for help on is my front stage; I did some looking and I think I've decided on Focal. Before deciding on speakers I figured I'd get a matching sundown amp (SAX-100.4 V.2) for my mids and highs. From what I've read in these forums, Focal has pretty good components; After looking around I found Focal Performance 165AS components and figured they would be suitable for my front doors with the tweeter in the A-Pillar. Since my vehicle only has two stock locations for tweeters, I wasn't sure if I should buy 2 pairs of these comps and put the second pair of tweeters angle mounted on the rear pillars or possibly the A-Pillars as well or If I should look into a Coaxial speakers (Factory rear deck is 6x9s). This thought brought me to the contemplation of these two sets for the rear deck: Focal Integration ISC 690 and Focal Integration ISS 690. So at this point in time I'm at a road block, So I come to the experienced car audio buffs of SMD asking for assistance. My questions for you: 1) Do you approve in my choice of In-Dash receiver? 2) Do these components (165AS) seem like a viable option to pair with the substage. If not, what do you recommend instead? 3) Rear Deck: Focal Performance 165AS, ISC 690, ISS 690, or something else? 4) If you think I should run components for the rear deck, where would you mount the tweeter? 5) Is Sundown SAX-100.4 V.2 a suitable amp for my front stage? I know it seems like I'm asking a lot... that's because I am. I have faith in this community to point me in the right direction. Thanks for all your help! -DT!
  4. How much of a sound difference is there by using components with cheapers speakers? if a person were to use some using components with cheapers speakers? how much of a difference would it be to use the Hertz DCX165.3 2-way speakers vs using the component version? The component version is $50 more expensive and i would have to cut holes for the tweeters, would it be worth it?
  5. So I know, I know.... "no VS threads" .... Not totally sure whether this completely falls under that but here we go.... So, I've realized I made the wrong decision for tweeters in my car... LPG aluminum tweets .... Cannot be crossed lower than 4k and that is with lower power/lower volume.... 5k is much better.... This will not work for me anymore... I've learned that now and need to move onto something better for me... Currently using my Pioneer HU for active setup and going through a MB Quart 4.125 .... I am looking at these guys: Vifa NE25VTS-04 Morel CAT 378 I have been eyeballing the Vifa for quite some time now but not pulling the trigger just yet.... The Morel came up in another thread and I saw that the specs were similar but it's advertised as a sort of "hyrid" tweeter .. My biggest problem is not install or anything... But which would be louder on the power given... Not that I want to be heard from farther away but I want to have more headroom as far as EQ and balancing without much struggle... I'm looking to improve the clarity and range...I do not have a specific driver to match up with it yet but any suggestions would be great... And wondering if I can fit an 7-8" mid to pair with it... .Help I'm lost.... Music tastes: John Legend John Legend Again Slick Rick Dir En Grey Gorillaz Highly suggest you guys check out the music I listen to so you know what I'm after.... It's really wide and I'd like to be able to play it all.... Any and all help much appreciated....!!!
  6. just few pics for my first post of my system, not my first system but its what i had to work with at the moment, lol 6 tweeters 1 tablet 1 400.4 mtx amp 2 12's alpine radio head unit box i built tuned to 32Hz with walled off trunk with blue leds light up to bass --- no clue really how to post the pictures properly just winging it, gonna do the build log later when i find all the pictures. EDIT this url below is the 2 min vid~ at nighttime not too good of a vid but only one i have atm probably seems like the radio would max out at like vol 15 but its set up where itll go to 35, set gains with DMM
  7. Can someone tell me what the sensitivity of the Crescendo PWX 6.5's is?
  8. On my truck (2000 Silverado 1500 EXT Cab LT) i have factory wiring for both a tweeter and a midbass speaker. Im sure this is a stupid question.. But would i get more power out of a headunit using the factory wiring for the tweeter and the midbass versus connecting just the midbass to the crossover to power both the tweeter and midbass?
  9. I have a pair of used HAT L1pro tweeters for sale. I bought them used, haven't used them, I want to step down to the L1v2's which will fit my current needs better, as they're slightly smaller. Both read 3.6ohm, which is exactly what the spec sheet in one of the attached pictures says the DC Resistance is supposed to be. The threads and mounting rings do show some signs of use, where the color has rubbed away. On one of the tweeters, there is a clear bead of glue around the bottom of the aluminum housing (pictured) from the last owner separating the protective housing from the rest of the tweet. It still works as designed, it's simply a cosmetic issue. $325OBO.
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