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Found 9 results

  1. Sent the following to Mechman via their online form, but I figured I would post here to see if anyone else has any insight on this for me in the mean time while waiting for their response. "Hello, I purchased one of your alternators, via Sonic Electronix, for my 2008 Chevy Silverado. It has the 5.3L (VIN-J) and the alternator model is the 270A 8302270. I wired it with all 1/0 OFC cable, ensured the ground from the alternator to the battery runs through the Hall Effect sensor, used a 3/8” shorter belt (Gates) and replaced the tensioner for a new one (Gates). All works great except one thing, when the engine gets to about 3000-3500 RPM the voltage drops to battery voltage, then once back to idle the voltage comes back up. I'm not sure if this is by design or if there is some belt slippage at high RPM. If it is the latter, I cannot tell since it is a new install and I see no indication of belt dust yet. I wanted to get your input before I start going out buying anything. I eventually am going to order Gates Green Strip belts since I cannot get them locally, but I want to be sure of the length before I do. Right now, I have brand new Gate Micro-V belts installed since I can get those locally. The stock belt is 94" (K060935). Right now I have the 93-5/8" (K060930) installed, but the 93" (K060923) will fit, however with the 93" installed the tensioner is almost maxed, unsure if that is a factor or not. If you think I need a shorter belt, I will go out and purchase the 93" and if that solves my problem, I will be ordering the 93" Green Strip version (K060923HD). Thanks in advance and I hope to hear from you soon so I can resolve this." I should also mention I did try the 93" but never ran it with it due to the tensioner being almost maxed, so I returned it for the currently installed 93-5/8". I'm doing a new build to, so other than stock components, there are no aftermarket devices (amps, etc.) putting any additional load on the alternator other than a second battery.
  2. Okay guys so Im having problems. I have a 2011 Toyota Camry with a 2.4L engine. I have an old school Power Acoustik 820w amp powering 2 Kicker CVRs ( I know, basic system.. but Im a college student so its all I can afford). I also have a second battery in the trunk that is a decent size car audio battery. I'm having a severe voltage issue. Ever since I got the car the voltage has been low. Its also very temperature dependent, but typically once the engine is warm it sits at 13.3v-13.5v. This is without the subs playing. When i turn on something like headlights (hids) the voltage will drop .1v for a moment and then go right back to where it was sitting. I live in south Alabama, USA. So temperatures lately are around 100'F.. Ive owned the car for over a year and its been doing this the entire time. Ive had a lot of cars throrought my life and anytime an alternator went this low, it eventually went out. but this one is still holding steady.. Has anyone ever had an issue like this???? Could it be some sensor or regulator?? HELP!!! Also... Would doing a big 3 upgrade help with this problem, or help improve the flow of power in general? Thanks.
  3. I have a 2007 Ford Fusion with a stock alternator, probably stock battery (could be anything between 120-150 amp), and a Crescendo Logic F-31HP AGM Powercell battery in the trunk. The batteries are connected in parallel via 0 gauge wires (one positive and one negative) under the car. I installed the battery about a year ago and have had zero power/electrical problems since. Within the last week my car has been having a hard time starting and in fact the last time I had to have someone jump me. I have a voltmeter up by the driver's seat that is connected to the back crescendo battery and it read 9.5 volts. When the car is running with the radio off, the voltage stays between 3.7 - 4.0 volts. HOWEVER, when I go to the trunk to maunally check the voltage of that crescendo battery, it reads almost 0.3 volts more. So because of the 0.3 volt drop, when I mentioned before that the battery was 9.5, it was actually 9.8, which is still bad. But, the problem is when I then check the battery in front, it reads 0.17 more than the back battery. When I first installed the back battery, the voltages were always within 0.01 volts of each other. Now the voltage drop is concerning me greatly. So my theory is that when the car is off and I don't drive it for a few days the front battery is trying to charge the back battery up to its voltage, which in affect is discharging the front or maybe even both batteries. But, it is just a theory and I really don't know, that is why I am asking you guys what you think is happening and what I should do. PS, I bought the car used like 3 years ago and have never changed the front battery and I am thinking it has never been changed, so it might be at the end of its life cycle PSS, I know that it is bad when you add a 2nd battery and don't uprade the alternator or add one; so that might be a factor as well.
  4. so i have been looking around, maybe didnt look hard enough idk, but i cant seem to find out why with my setup im having a drop. 2004 Silverado Mechman 370 amp and voltage regulator with guage big 3 d3400 under hood d3100 in back Skar 2500 2 Fi Btl n2 at 1ohm So my voltage as far as i have read is ok to be set at 15v with these xs and i have had it this way for idk 2 years now and this issue has been this way whole time just asking the question now before i prep for the DC 10k to be put in, the issue is obviously voltage drop at idle its fine with alternator over the 1200 or 1500 rpm whatever it is but from reading other ppls setups to me seems like i should be able to run my setup full tilt without that much voltage drop. the voltage drop is enough to turn off my headunit so like below 13.5 idk my headunit doesnt like voltage too much lower than stock which is kinda good since it doesnt stay on like below 13 to really damage my stuff. So i know adding another d3100 id be set but for like 2700w 3 big batts and a 370 seems like alot, i checked my grounds they seem solid and fine its all 1/0 and hydraulic crimped so is there something wrong or does this setup seem like ya i should be dropping that much at idle because i dont want to have this problem when i add my 10k and have to have more batteries than i actually should need, and no i dont plan on running a 10k on just 2 batteries but i would like to know about how many d3100 i should need oh and system tuned with dd-1 and cc-1 headunit is pioneer DEH-x8500BS
  5. All, I have a dual alt setup in my Tahoe, with a 370XP from DC solely for my subs. 2 weeks ago, I bought a 3rd Crescendo F31 to make sure my voltage was stiff for the 5500BC that I am waiting on. The funny thing is, when I added the 3rd battery, my voltage dropped by .2 It used to sit at 14.8 solid on 2 F31 and drop to 13.6 full tilt, Idling Now, it sits at 14.6 and only drops to 13.8, Idling So it helped but now my voltage sits .2 lower? I have 1 run of 1/0 Knu from the alternator to the battery bank, the batteries are grounded to each other, as well as to the chassis, full copper terminals, paint stripped to bare metals etc Anything I can do to get that .2 volts back? I know it's nitpicky but it bothers me. Equipment is listed in my signature All help is appreciated!
  6. Originally had 2 JL W1v2 running off a alpine Mrp-m500 (so 250 each sub). With this setup didnt really have much voltage drop just slight. NOW Im running 2 JL W3v3 running off a JL HD750/1 (375 each sub). Before I got the 750 installed today, the subs running off the 500amp were slamming. With the new amp installed I thought they would sound noticeably louder but they actually sounded lower. All gains set with DD1. When I read the battery with car and audio on the batttery read at 13.4 but as soon as i raise the volume to normal listening volume the voltage drops to 12.1-2. Also the headlights barely flicker..you have to look really hard to notice but then again my lights are HIDs. My car battery is about 3 years old which I know is cutting close to needing to be changed. My immediate plan of action was to purchase a Yellow Top optima for car battery. Is this the best option or should I keep the car battery there and wire the yellowtop in the trunk with the amp? Is this what the problem is or could it be something else??
  7. Hey guys, I'm a noob on the rise (at least I like to think), but I've never run over 2K watts RMS in any of my systems, until now. I currently am running a Q2200.1 and a Kenwood Excelon XR400-4. I just bought and received a SoundQubed Q4-120, 4 AudioQue 6x9's, and a set of SQ's SuperTweets. I haven't installed any of the new gear yet, but I would like to install a set of the 6x9's for a little added mid bass and the SuperTweets for sure. As far as installed speakers, I have (2) SoundQubed HDS3 12's, Pair of Infinity Kappa 6.5 components, and a pair of Kappa 6x9's. My goal is to buy another Q2200.1 and strap it to my existing. I want to run a pair of HDC3 12's and push them to their max. I know I will need availability to 400amps just for those two amps. Now add in my Kenwood (which is probably another 70amps) and if I install the SoundQubed Q4-120 which is 80amps, I will definitely need a second run of 1/0. Sorry for the long post, but I want to be thorough upfront... As far as electrical is concerned now, I have a MechMan 240amp HO alt and (3) H6 AutoZone Platinum's with around 210amp hours, that are holding up excellent so far. I have one run of 1/0 from the front battery to the (2) rear batteries. My question is, would it be best to fabricate some sort of bus bar out of 1/4"x2" flat bar and make all connections there with a second run of 1/0 from front to back? Or just do another run of 1/0 from front to rear battery bank and call it good? Also, do I need to do second runs of 1/0 on the batteries to keep them in a parallel configuration (run another set of 1/0 wires from + to + and - to - ?) Any help with my wiring will be greatly appreciated! I need my wiring to be spot on as all you guys know. If I do this, I will have over 5500RMS and I would like to know if everything is safe. Thanks and once again, sorry for the long ass post!
  8. I have my Monte SS that I store every winter & this was the first I stored it with the D3400. I unhooked everything from the BATT, e v e r y t h i n g, & the resting voltage was teetering between 13.0 - 13.1v ... it had been idling for about 10 minutes before I shut it off & went through my other checklist(s). Fast FWD to this past Tuesday, & I uncover it, & pop the hood, &, much to my surprise, it read 12.45v. Two DMMs, one olde time "needle" meter, & a SMD VM-1. Now it charged up just fine over the course of 90-minutes or so to 12.8v with the charger I have before I started the car, & all was Honkey-Dorey. Question is: Sitting by itself, should it have dropped nearly seven-tenths of a volt, or am I just looking for something to create a thread about? PS: I am in Syracuse, NY, USA. We had one of the coldest winters in recent memory ... in case that Super Polar Vortex cold had anything to do with BATTs. (Pardon my ignorance in that regard.)
  9. Hi there guys Im fairly new to car audio and I just recently switched from having a big truck with a high output alternator to an amazing 2014 Scion xD. Now from what I read up on, my car has a 100 amp alternator. Big difference from my old truck! I recently bought a Hifonics amplifier, it is the BRX2400.1D and this thing is power hungry! Now whats stopping me from installing this is that I highly doubt my car could handle 1600 watts rms. I have dual Kicker CompR 12" subwoofers in a ported box and they are wired at 2ohms at 1600 watts rms. I just bought a XS Power D975 battery and I was wondering if I should replace my starter battery (under the hood) with my new XS power battery. Will that start my car up and power the subs without putting stress on my alternator or should I parallel wire the starter battery and my new battery together to power my amplifier? Please be honest with your opinions because I really do not want to screw my car up. Thank you!