d00bie Posted March 3, 2009 Report Share Posted March 3, 2009 Is there any real need to fibreglass the inside of the box? have 2 x 15" subs going into a ported enclosure, port in-between the two subs... Is there any need to fibreglass the inside? would 3/4 MDF be enough? Or Birch ply? If there is a need to fibreglass, would just coating the inside of the box with resin be enough? or would matting etc be required? TA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassBoy69 Posted March 3, 2009 Report Share Posted March 3, 2009 Is there any real need to fibreglass the inside of the box? have 2 x 15" subs going into a ported enclosure, port in-between the two subs...Is there any need to fibreglass the inside? would 3/4 MDF be enough? Or Birch ply? If there is a need to fibreglass, would just coating the inside of the box with resin be enough? or would matting etc be required? TA it depends on what subs your pushing,.. and how far your willing to go, but if you dont wanna go alllll the way then just coat it, and use wood glue inside again to insure a good seal. i would just use a Polyester filler, its smoth and easy to lay out,. if mixed right it will be solid as a rock. Quote 144+ DB'S OUT OF A CONVERTIBLE 12" Funky Pup Subwoofer (The worlds most powerful subwoofer) 6" Aero Ported Box Hifonics - Bxi2010-D Pioneer Deck RD Audio - Front Speaker Rockford Fosgate - Rear Speakers KnuKonceptz - 0 Gauge Wire KnuKonceptz SS Karma - 10 Gauge Sub Wire KnuKonceptz - Krystal Kable Rca Big 3 - Upgrade - 0 Gauge Kinetik - Hc1800 Battery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassBoy69 Posted March 3, 2009 Report Share Posted March 3, 2009 iv re sealing the inside of my box and it was a night and day difference, then once i did that i kid you not i was breaking screw heads that held the sub in, due to more pressure.. lol use good screws once done.. Quote 144+ DB'S OUT OF A CONVERTIBLE 12" Funky Pup Subwoofer (The worlds most powerful subwoofer) 6" Aero Ported Box Hifonics - Bxi2010-D Pioneer Deck RD Audio - Front Speaker Rockford Fosgate - Rear Speakers KnuKonceptz - 0 Gauge Wire KnuKonceptz SS Karma - 10 Gauge Sub Wire KnuKonceptz - Krystal Kable Rca Big 3 - Upgrade - 0 Gauge Kinetik - Hc1800 Battery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d00bie Posted March 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2009 cool thanks! One last question is 3/4 mdf sufficient? Or should I use 1" MDF? Or everyone seems to be talking about Birch Ply? Checked the price of Birch ply here, €70 a SHEET bloody expensive!! The subs I'm using are Massive Audio DMX15s, not too sure how hard they push to be honest as they're the first ones here! Would 3/4 mdf coated with resin inside be enough?? The louder the better to be honest, would prefer to do it 100% right first time rather than wanting to rebuild at a later stage. iv re sealing the inside of my box and it was a night and day difference,then once i did that i kid you not i was breaking screw heads that held the sub in, due to more pressure.. lol use good screws once done.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aznboi3644 Posted March 3, 2009 Report Share Posted March 3, 2009 "need"...no Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d00bie Posted March 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2009 Not very informative there... :01nocomment8so: Anyhows, I'm opting for 1" mdf, and fibreglass along the joints. Cheers "need"...no Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zfrerichs Posted March 3, 2009 Report Share Posted March 3, 2009 i dont like working with ply myself. not hating on ply but i just prefer mdf. resin will make a huge difference. itll seal everything up and will help with stiffness Quote Roseville, CA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zfrerichs Posted March 3, 2009 Report Share Posted March 3, 2009 oh and glass the whole thing not just the joints Quote Roseville, CA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d00bie Posted March 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2009 Perfect, thanks for that! and definately will do!!! oh and glass the whole thing not just the joints Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creyc Posted March 4, 2009 Report Share Posted March 4, 2009 Resin will add NO strength to a flat panel of MDF. That is what proper bracing is for. The reason to use fiberglass in a box is to reinforce glue joints. Technically all that holds a box together is the glue, the screws do just about nothing. But if you've ever broken an old box apart you'll notice a proper glue joint will actually usually remain somewhat intact, but the MDF itself around the joint will be cracked and broken. The glue is actually stronger than the MDF itself. As a result, too much force on any joint can cause the little 3/4" MDF joint itself to fracture and deteriorate. This necessitates the use of something to spread the force out beyond the 3/4" joint of MDF in order to achieve a stronger bond between two panels, which is where fiberglass mat comes in. Resin itself is also of very little structural use, it's the fiberglass matt layed down which provides the structural strength. Resin merely acts as a catch-all sealant, in case your cuts aren't too straight and you may have an air leak Proper, ample bracing is the first course of action to strengthening any enclosure. Fiberglass does have its uses, but in 90% of the applications I see it used, a few simple, well placed (and cheap) braces would have been the better solution. Quote 2001 Chevy Blazer (2) SAZ-3000Ds (2) custom 18" Madmax subs in a second row wall Rockford 600-4 Pioneer PRS components Pioneer P800PRS deck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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