2 Fi Q 10's on a Chrysler 300

[kentb]

i met up with a local guy and gave him a demo, well with my 2 10" fi SSD and sundown 1500d it got him interested in getting 2 10's for his ride.

in short he wanted to do 2 10's but with double the power.

his setup:

2 10" Fi Q w/ BP power + extra spider(i think), scott said he'll beef it up so it can handle 1.5k rms better.

sundown 3000d which will be ran @ 1ohm

1.9 cu. ft box after displacements tuned to 30 hz right now(stock port length, no cutting yet), but will be changed to 35 or 38hz.

using a 4" aeroport. I was worried at this at first because the port might be too small, but i hooked it up to my 1500d and there is no port noise at all(should be because of the circular design plus the flares.

more pics tomorrow

[St.Ides]

nice work.

what year 300?

[kentb]

nice work.

what year 300?

it looks like this

,

the one on the pic is a 300c, not sure if he has a 300c.

[St.Ides]

ouch, i have that same model 300.. its gonna be hard to get loud bass into the cab. the rear seats have a thick honey-comb layer of plastic behind the foam padding.

i removed the plastic. (but now the rear seats kind of 'sag' when you sit down on them, i never have rear passengers so i could care less).... the trunk rattles like crazy! (even when i was running off 600rms)

good luck on the build man.

if you find any tips or tricks be sure to let us know

*Here's some stuff i found useful to deaden the rattle (copied from a 300 forum, *Replace the edead with any other material*)

After 5 layers of dynamat+fatmat on the lid, and 3 laters of fatmat on the actual trunk i have close to ZERO trunk rattle.

I have a full dynamat trunk kit, plus 40 sq ft of edead, then

a bulk roll where I spot added in different places.

I have about 4 layers on the trunk lid.

THEN, I covered it all with edead v4, which is a soft closed cell foam

material.

I then used this inside the bumper to kill the rattles which still

existed after all of the above.

I then put an extra weather strip around the trunk lid and padded

the area with remaining v4.

Now, you can feel my trunk lid vibrate, but there is no rattling

at all.

The ANSWER:

There is no such thing as adding too much, but use trial and error,

you may not have to do the whole thing if you identify exactly what

is rattling.

______________

In addition to dynamat, I did the following:

1. Added rubber stoppers to the back of the license plate

2. Added dynamat to the back of the license plate

3. Adjusted the rubber stoppers on the trunk lid

4. Added peel and stick weather strip along the trunk lid

where it hits the trunk when it closes.

5. Ran electrical tape around the trunk latch to make it tighter when

the trunk closes.

So far I still have some minor rattle, plus the sound of the rubber vents

whooshing on big base hits.

I did not dynamat under the spare tire, so that will be next.

Just for reference, when I finished the install it rattled bad enough

for me to hear it in the car over the music.

Now after dynamat and the above, I have to really crank the

music to hear any rattling.

________________________--

1. rear deck, especially around the 3rd brake. I was stupid and didn't

do this the first time around. I did it from underneath instead of on top.

2. multiple layers in a U shape around the spare tire, with the curve of

the "U" against the rear of the car.

3. 3 layers at the end of the trunk near the bumper.

4. Be absolutely sure to put as much as possible in the side areas

around the vents (you'll see the vents when you remove the side

trim.

5. wrap electrical tape around the latch (not so much that the latch

won't catch, just a couple of trips around)

6. adjust the stoppers on the deck lid so that the lid is very tight when closed (#5 helps with this).

7. get the weatherstripping from home depot/sears hw/lowes (the peel

and stick foam kind). And go around the deck lid opening where the

deck lid will meet the trunk opening. So far I only 1 strip at the end

of the trunk lid.

8. minimum 3 layers on the trunk lid itself (stupid me only had it under

the trim panel)

9. Add dynamat to the back of the license plate

10. Glue felt or to the back of that (I didn't but I'm planning to).

11. buy 10cent rubber stoppers from sears. drill a pilot hole

and screw the bottom license plate to these.

12. use rubber washers behind the top of the license plate screw

hole.

I didn't remove the rubber from the vent slats so I can still hear

that, but that's the only thing besides bass that can be hear

currently.

Looking at this list reminds me how much I didn't do the first time

around. It took me 3 attempts to get it quiet because I thought

1 layer was enough.

kind of long, but I hope it helped.

[kentb]

ouch, i have that same model 300.. its gonna be hard to get loud bass into the cab. the rear seats have a thick honey-comb layer of plastic behind the foam padding.

i removed the plastic. (but now the rear seats kind of 'sag' when you sit down on them, i never have rear passengers so i could care less).... the trunk rattles like crazy! (even when i was running off 600rms)

good luck on the build man.

if you find any tips or tricks be sure to let us know

*Here's some stuff i found useful to deaden the rattle (copied from a 300 forum, *Replace the edead with any other material*)

After 5 layers of dynamat+fatmat on the lid, and 3 laters of fatmat on the actual trunk i have close to ZERO trunk rattle.

thanks for the tip ill forward him this topic so he can read this.

i'm sure he'll just pull down the seats when he's bumping though. we'll see what happens, i can't wait to hear it in his car.

[brewer_brewer]

nice. nice work on the baffle.

looks like a very strong box. should sound great.

[BEllithorpe04]

solid box man, looks really nice