124FLHX Posted February 4, 2011 Report Posted February 4, 2011 Got a question I hope someone out there has an answer to. I manged to make it nearly two months before I absolutely had to up grade the audio in a new 2010 Chevy Silverado z71. Im not out to snap necks or crush kittens, but I can definately make my ol' ladies friends fight over which ones get to set in the back...lol. Kenwood 9960 Audio Control dqsxu JL Audio HD900/5 Focal 165krx3 - front 165vr - rear 2- 11" focal V2's The problem is that, the lights dim. This vechicle has a battery on demand feature I am concerned about. I've used 1/0 to up grade all + /- and replaced start battery. Still no change. So, I ordered a DC Power 280 amp h/o that's supposed to be drop-in. I also have a second deep cycle agm and stinger relay/isoator and enuff of the same 1/0 and fuses to wire e erything under the hood. I realize this is probably overkill, but I dont want to stress or more importantly damage vechicle. Will the alternator cause codes or in anyway negativly effect vechicle performance? I've worked hard to finally be able pay cash for this truck and these toys and want to build it right...and reliable...as im terminally ill and am building my dream truck for my little sister. I hope to wrap this part of the install up this weekend so ANY AND ALL input is greatly appreciated!!! Thx.. Quote
Guest Posted February 4, 2011 Report Posted February 4, 2011 that alternator plan sounds like a good one. may i recommend you take out the isolator if you dont even plan on running your system with the car off (which you shouldnt do anyways). you should stop seeing absolute horrible voltage drop then because it will allow your alternator to charge both batteries and power the system itself instead of having 1 battery on the system, not being charged, till the battery's voltage drops and the alternator is stressed out trying to charge it. Quote
Guest DC Power Kyle Posted February 4, 2011 Report Posted February 4, 2011 Keeping the vehicle on Tow/Haul mode will help with the voltage. However the RVC system is a delayed response control and isn't as quick as the older style Tahoes Internal Regulators so you will see voltage drop at times but the alternator will recover as quickly as the RVC system will let it. read more about it here: http://www.duboismarketing.com/pages/article.asp?id=31 Quote
124FLHX Posted February 4, 2011 Author Report Posted February 4, 2011 ...kyle, I appreciate the info but keeping the haul/ haul mode is not really going to help me. I do have a question ill bet u can help.me w/ though. I didn't ask stan about the optimum guage for the alt I got. (280pro) Understanding that thealt is only going to provide what's needed the demand will (should) never be much over 225 and that's not gonna be for long. I have 1/0 frame to batt, frame to eng., and alt to batt. I have then ran less than 12 fused feet of 4ga to amp. I have 2ga and 0ga Quote
124FLHX Posted February 4, 2011 Author Report Posted February 4, 2011 ...kyle, I appreciate the info but keeping the haul/ haul mode is not really going to help me. I do have a question ill bet u can help.me w/ though. I didn't ask stan about the optimum guage for the alt I got. (280pro) Understanding that thealt is only going to provide what's needed the demand will (should) never be much over 225 and that's not gonna be for long. I have 1/0 frame to batt, frame to eng., and alt to batt. I have then ran less than 12 fused feet of 4ga to amp. I have 2ga and 1/0ga to do entire electrical is 2 sufficient But 0 better or is the 0 the right choice. Quote
124FLHX Posted February 4, 2011 Author Report Posted February 4, 2011 secondly..in theory, I thought wiring up a completely seperate 12v system with the benefit of more amps charging, iwould eleminate the draw on the vechicles" stock" electrical system. thuss eleminating Quote
smokeumtires Posted February 4, 2011 Report Posted February 4, 2011 I have the EXACT same model as your tuck only its a diesel, One of the BEST upgrade I did before my multi alt setup was MLA Module.... You could Get a VCM as well. NO CODES NO HASSLE SOLID VOLTAGE Look into it, They go perfect with DC alts. TRUST ME Look at my first build, just follow the link in my sig Quote
124FLHX Posted February 4, 2011 Author Report Posted February 4, 2011 the momentary deep draw on the shared electrical circut the lights are on. Fyi, after replacing the batt, and factory cable/connections and the turn signals dimmed lights I figured it was part of the can-buss technology (combined with ampmeter(dash) reading 11-12v and alt in standby. Quote
Guest DC Power Rob Posted February 4, 2011 Report Posted February 4, 2011 The only things I will add here is that on your truck you only have two options with the voltage, run an MLA, or run a dual kit and separate the systems. MLA will be great if you want to stay with a single alt, and it will definitely get you the voltage you want. That said, A PCM MLA is ~$200, I can get a dual kit for close to that. I'm not trying in ANY way to snipe a sale here, but bang for the buck the dual kit wins every time. If you want the simplicity of the single alt, get the MLA, but if you dont mind running duals, go that way as your essentially doubling your charging capacity (which you already commented on).. Rob Quote
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