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  1. I always wanted to strap 2 amps together and test them. Since i am dropping these two into my Ford F250 soon, i figured today was a good day to do that! For info on this amp visit http://www.b2audio.com More specs on this amp (pdf file) here https://www.b2audio.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/rage_amps_man_090119.pdf Thanks for watching if you did!
    4 points
  2. I love it! I think it is missing something though. So i added this clear acrylic trim piece just to see if i would like it there. I think i will probably keep it and make it out of aluminum or stainless. I think it breaks it up nicely.
    4 points
  3. We made a BUNCH of 3/0 AWG custom cables for Ron's Gen 3 Dodge Diesel Truck. We also set him up with a lime green 370A Mechman alternator. He did all the installation per our guidelines. He supplied his own battery terminals and red wire covering . . . He brought it by and we put the carbon pile on it. Now, this thing is kinda' like D'Amore's honeybadger - it don't give a shit. The results were mighty impressive. The screen shot I captured was at idle (800 rpm). We also measured the voltage drop between the alternator and the battery which we had the carbon pile connected. The sun was in the absolute wrong spot at that time so the photos with the meters was washed out, unfortunately. However, who would like to guess the difference in voltage measurements between the two meters, given the following? 315A - at operating temp, at rpm Meter 1 - red to Alt output stud and black to case of alt Meter 2 - red to battery (+) and and black to (-) terminals on passenger side battery This is known as a voltage drop analysis when you look at the difference of voltage between any two points in a circuit. Ideally, we like to see such measurements differ by less than 3%. This shows us if the circuit is optimized or has room for improvement. Keep in mind that any voltage drop is voltage loss, and is converted to heat vs work. So, guesses? And by the way, all alternators have losses due to heat when mounted to an engine in an hot engine bay. We like to see that 15% or less under load while the alternator is at operating temp. So, this Mechman unit delivered the goods as always.
    3 points
  4. Holy smokes its me again. So I bought an old school Alienware Predator case on the cheap and wanted to throw my current rig in it for pure nostalgia purposes. For those that don't know, these PCs were the BEES KNEES back in 02-05 and was my dream PC. So bought a case on ebay for 200 bucks that looked in decent shape to start. Equipment - CPU- AMD 5800x 3.8ghz GPU - AMD 6900XT 16gb RAM - G Skill 32gb 3600mhz HD - Seagate Firecuda 1TB m.2 Motherboard - ASRock Tiachi x570 Watercooler - AIO 360 radiator (6) 120mm EZDIY rgb fans Monitor - Samsung 49" Odyssey G9 Speakers - Klipsch RP15 with a 10" Klipsch subwoofer First had to take it all apart and start sanding for new paint. What it looked like when I got it, Plasma purple in somewhat decent shape, lots of scratches. Threw on some spray-on bedliner to coat the inside metal case black (no more retro steelie) Everything loaded in External Paint is a Ford explorer black metallic Finished product
    3 points
  5. it wont stop raining here so i havent done anything util today. managed to get some stuff done this morning before it started again. This round im gonna try to seal off the trunk again and fire forward. gonna do a better job of sealing off this time though. Started out making a template and transferred that to wood and so on and so forth. Going to need some trim pieces for this gap obviously. this part was a pain in the ass to be honest. Myu solution will require a bit of bodywork and filler to flush it out but its not bad. A couple of rectangle pieces and a wedge or two with a weird angle on them should fill this in nicely Made the cutout for the box to fit into. The box is going to sit flush up against the back of this coutout. Here is the base the box will sit on Added some side panels to help seal off. i think i will screw the box into these to make sure its secure. maybe not, i dont know. would be nice to easily remove the box but i dont want any leaks either. Box will sit like this Thats all for today. gotta pull all this out again and then put sound deadener over all the holes i can find so its sealed off really good. then i need a lower trim piece for the front will probably body work the front panel to smooth out all the lines and hide the business end of stuff. I may just wire up everything to make sure the box doesnt have any terrible flaws before i get crazy. i have plenty of depth to work if i need to change anything. i only had about 5 hours to work today, so i didnt get much progress but i guess any progress is good lol. Thanks for looking!
    3 points
  6. me too! ive always wanted to do one. this one came out a little janky but now i know what mistakes i made and have a better plan for the next one! heres some more pics I dont like these corners sticking out, just asking to get broke off. that takes care of that! All finished up. might paint it later The next step is to toss it in the trunk and see how it sounds. i have a feeling my tuning is gonna be a bit higher than i wanted but thats no big deal. i think i want to seal off the cabin of the car and fire this forward into the cabin from the trunk. The lkast time it tried it i half assed it and it didnt work too well. so maybe i'll get it right this time \
    3 points
  7. had to kinda test how many kerf to make. i know hunter martin made a guide but who knows where it is anymore'='' second kerf cut made it looks a bit wonky in this view, i went the wrong way, or too far anyway. it wont matter once its all glued up and forced into place and shape. thats all im ding for today. i'll gp do some more work tomorrow. i think i shoulld have cut the speaker hole out first but as long as i clamp this down tiight and flat it will be fine. i'll add a second baffle when i ge to that point. thanks for looking
    3 points
  8. The list of "150db" leader board on term pro, in just DB drag, is about 47 pages long. Just in the 1k class. Most, have 2 drivers, and not 18's. Your vehicle plays a big role in metering efficiency. If all you are doing, is chasing numbers, Id rethink your entire set up. (To me, the Fi btl, is one of the most rad drivers out there,.. i love them, especially for a daily ground pounder, but hey, do you)
    3 points
  9. Also got my rock lights back to working. Had a lil hiccup when the lift was installed. Got them repaired, and working again. 20220526_000307.mp4
    3 points
  10. True, TRUE sq, can get out of hand fast, budget wise. Speaker location, is huge, as well as direct over buying 4000 dollar focal rigs. Ive never done a sq build, but, buying seperates, over comp sets seems ideal to me (what ive done) as well as processing, time alignment, location, direction, sound dampening, vehicle resonance at specific frequencies, and such, then, that brings in tools. You will want/need a good mic, laptop/3software, and such, to show you bandwidth, peaks, valleys, direction, TA, and such. (Where a good dsp will help) Source can be huge, lossless files/music is a full other bag of monsters.... A true sq oriented building is super satisfying and SUPER involved. Most say SQ, and most just have decent gear in oem locations, and it sounds ok, and they call it sq. Gear,.. bring money. Most SQ guys, won't run anythkng but class A, or class AB. They are large amps, that make more heat than your generic class d turd. (See Tonys big boy, sq class holy fuck amplifer line, things cost more than my entire build) So, its all up to you, how far you wanna go down the rabbit hole. Cheers and good luck. (I think most that say SQ, TRUE SQ, really dont have any idea what they are getting into, but, if you're willing, anything is doable no doubt)
    3 points
  11. Hey guys! It's been a LONG time. I decided I would hop on here and share a couple of builds I have going on right now. my roommate and best friend Stephen just bought a Jetta Sportwagen TDI, and he has big plans for it. We started off with window tint (5% ceramic tint all the way around) and a stereo to replace that awful factory bluetooth setup. Today, we built the box and put it all together. I sold him some old Skar VVX 12 v3s and an RP1500.1D I had in my 4Runner (stay tuned for a build on that 4Runner soon!). Upcoming is KW Coilovers, Rawtek full exhaust, CR170 turbo, Malone Stage 3 tune and some head porting. First is tinting. Picking up wood in my Blackwood! No bed ftl lol. Equipment! Design Time to build! Time to put her in! She hides pretty well! lol. Stay tuned for more!
    3 points
  12. Since its an SIA amp, you most likely (or your "friend that knows more") have the crossover settings on the amp all wrong for sub use, it's a common issue with people that know it all but never messed with a full bridge full range amp before. It's so bad of an issue of this self proclaimed professional installers that been doing this forever send perfectly working amps back as bad amps for warranty. Watch this video which explains what the crossovers do and how to set them, since its a full range amp the crossovers basically work oppisite/backkwards of what they do on a typical sub amp that just outputs a low pass only signal.
    3 points
  13. Been awhile guys and I’m laughing at myself and some of the things I’ve said on this build log lol. Feel like I’ve learned a decent bit about car audio since I’ve been active on this build log but anyways box is drying as we speak with its final coating of paint. Waiting on my alternator from Dc power to come in and will be ordering headway cells (doing a battery delete) to make a bank.
    3 points
  14. Ive had 8 amps, on one remote line. Never had a issue.
    3 points
  15. Here are the Skar EVL (Yellow) and the Resilient Gold (orange) on your box specs. The Resilient Gold it looks they can work in a larger net volume than the skar, in fact their spec tops at 2.5 net per driver, they even have larger Xmax to back it up. Conclusion: these subs will work just fine in your current box but you may gain some extra performance going with a larger box.
    3 points
  16. It almost looks like a grey scaled filter or something...but it isn't. This photo is real life. green ain't exactly my favorite color but it does look good here! that's all for today! new video coming tomorrow!
    3 points
  17. Cover is held with magnets Template to make a recess Since it's been so long. This is what it powers
    3 points
  18. Crazy design built crazy fast but I do agree with you, if you enjoyed the outcome, in the end it's all that matters.
    3 points
  19. Thats 100% not the glue that they use on dustcaps. Also the way the surround is unevenly pulled away from the basket edges is rather jank So this was apparently rebuilt by someone with very little experience in building woofers. This is not Sundown quality and something like this wouldnt be sold as new. Your audio dealer is trying to play you for a fool, so I would throw this threw his shop window and put a gun to his head and tell him to give back your money.
    3 points
  20. a little bit of kitty hair, some sanding and it is starting to become one! i rattle canned them black so i can see how they will look NOT wood. Then i sanded some more. As of right now they are still ugly but starting to take shape, If you squint and ignore my sand paper marks you might be able to envision my vision. These will be wrapped in black suede to match the upper piece in the door panel. Hopefully tomorrow.
    3 points
  21. I don’t post much anymore but i do lurk. Still into guns just not nearly into the audio stuff anymore. My hearing is shit as it is. I figured I’d post my most expensive purchase to date though. got promoted this year and wanted to reward myself so I decided I’d shoot a new USPSA division and jump in with a brand new custom open gun. Limcat Sabercat with the TSRB barrel.
    2 points
  22. Once you go DSP you never go back!
    2 points
  23. Sniff a Cross fire C7,. for fun,... .. but any/all mentioned above ^^^^^^ are all great options.
    2 points
  24. More slow progress.. -Molded the beauty panel into the Cpillar with "kitty hair" & wrapped in suede- 1st time using the stuff, wayyy better than bondo - built amp rack as 1 piece, painted with krylon stone spray paint... yeahhh, I know I took the easy route but no way was I gonna be able to wrap it successfully - started lithium rack in the rear, 80ah & 500 farad on each side, big distro in the middle
    2 points
  25. So I mounted them quick to get an idea, fed them from a b2 rage 2500.1 at 2ohm so they saw 2k.. Honestly thought it'd be a touch louder on 2k. Definitely over 150db for sure though (comparing to my older systems which I've metered). Either way, when all said & done they'll see 8k.. slightly more power lol. Did a little trim work & wrapped the amps in a vinyl. The beauty panel upper portion around the port will also be wrapped in the forged carbon vinyl & the lower half around the subs will be black suede. I'll have trouble wiring the amps as it's REAL tight. We'll see
    2 points
  26. 2 points
  27. After months of fixing things I rushed the first time around and learning allot my build is almost done just gotta install my external voltage regulator also the box is temporary for now it’s a little small 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan -sundown zv4 with fresh rebuild all NSV3 parts from audio apex -jp43 on the sub -sfb200.4 on mids and highs -stinger 2250 -390amp alfha audio hairpin alternator -4 skar 6x9s and a set of Mtx thunderbolt components up front -2 runs of 0 guage to the back 2 engine grounds 3 grounds to the frame 3 ground to the battery i think that’s all I’m really enjoying it my first ever build let me know what you guys think!
    2 points
  28. Bear in mind that many of those demo vehicles are using bandpass enclosures which can load the drivers not at a small range of frequencies like ported does but to a custom range that you can set (usually a full octave) in the case of 6th order bandpass enclosures, so they can be mighty loud with almost anything they play.
    2 points
  29. Best way to go is to add up all the channels/speakers of your factory stereo such as (for example my car) front center channel front left tweeter front right tweeter front left door front right door midbass rear left door rear right door midrange rear left deck rear right deck tweeter rear deck factory sub So in this case 10 channels/speakers, but maybe you don't care about keeping the center channel so then don't count/include that one, and since I already have the front tweeter inputs I don't need to worry about the input signal from the rear deck tweeters since its already the same as the front tweeters so I dont include those 2 channels as well. So now I know I need a HLC or a DSP with 7 channels of input With todays factory stereos in vehicles they have built in crossover slopes that you cant adjust so having a better HLC/DSP that allows you to input all of the above needed factory speaker signals into the device so that it can sum all those channels together for a full bandwidth output. Almost every DSP will allow you to do this and only a handful of HLC's (such as the multi channel Audiocontrol HLC's). So in this example with 7 channels needed look at getting the Audio Control LC8i, or a DSP that will give you more control than the LC8i will with things like a EQ, Active crossovers, Time Alignment, and so much more for every channel output with the Audio Control DM-810 Without summing the channels together for a full bandwidth signal you're stuck using the factory crossover settings that come from which ever speaker your current converter is hooked up too. So in my case not a single speaker has a full bandwidth output and depending on what speaker I tap into I will either get highs, midbass, midrange, or bass, which means if I wanted to put a full range speaker like a 6by9 in my doors all it will play is mid bass and not give me in treble unless I got installed a HLC or a DSP that takes all those factory signals and sum them together to create that full bandwidth signal that was once separated due to the factory crossovers that cant be changed. Running multiple 2 channel LOCs like you currently are is not going to solve any problem and only allow you to regurgitate the factory signal but with more power due to your added amplifiers. Granted every vehicle is different with how they go about their crossovers where as some may just have a basic radio, but if you have a nicer factory system that you don't want to replace the headunit with then a multichannel HLC or DSP with channel summing is the only way to go. My cadillac has a motorized touchscreen that raises from the dash and it offers me surround sound, usb, aux, bluetooth, dvd, gps, internal harddrive for music, siruisxm, backup camera, and a couple other things. Replacing my factory radio will make me use some ugly dash kit and lose the factory motorized screen and the only thing I gain is rca preouts from it so a DSP is a much better option plus the DSP will give me more ability to fine tune the settings besides just the basic fader/balance/bass/midrange/treble controls (but if you don't want the ability to eq each channel then something like the LC8i will be fine). The Audiocontrol DSPs look nice but Ive never used them, Im currently using a Rockford 3Sixty.2 DSP, and an Audison BitOne DSP
    2 points
  30. T and S parameters for x12 v3 after a few months of abuse regular use.
    2 points
  31. Double check me, ... im just going from memory, but, i wanna say it was the 7.5a ALT-S (in my world, that would be ALT SENSE) fuse. It sees the voltage, and the alt, charges accordingly. So, the fused diode above, knocks the voltage down around a volt, making the alt think, its a volt down, from actual, and, well, charges accordingly. Really super easy, cheap, reliable method to get a bit more voltage. They make other fused diodes, with different values, so, you could get one that is 2 volts down, or whatever. For me, im fine where it is. Also, the direction does matter. (the line and arrow on top) But, if you put it in wrong, youll get a charge light, just shut it off, reverse it, and boom, your done. Also, the part, is a little bit larger, hence the filing/sanding you can see, to get it to fit better, but, it aint no thing. Good luck. EDIT- pay no attention to the labeling above, I just yoinked the pic off the interwebz, to show ya....
    2 points
  32. by the way , DO NOT USE THIN BUSBAR PLATES like Parker on youtube , get some Coventry or Project DB bars , i got some off Ebay that are 4mm thick ( the plates in the picture i posted) the ones on Parkers you tube video are 1.143 mm thick , yeah not enough pulling 400-600 amp through it ! i'll be pulling about 450 max amps (Deaf Bonce AAK4000 & D'amore 400.4 ) using the plates(busbar) i got allows me to mount in a group 31 battery box
    2 points
  33. Volume is after displacements. Net volume. Generally speaking, stick to spec. There's a 15-20% fudge factor in there that's still acceptable and can be tweaked to personal taste / needs, but 1.4 is really pushing it. If you don't have the space for a ported box, just run 'er sealed! I reckon you'd have an easier time with a properly sized sealed box vs. an improperly sized ported one. I'm going to generalize *really* hard here because there are a *ton* of variables.... But the issue with going too small on ported being that it's a resonance system, and losing air mass really boinks the behavior - your response curve will tend towards higher frequencies / peaky response. Sort of like how prefabs only really get loud on A Milli.
    2 points
  34. The box will get a little bigger because you have to compensate for the loss in air space due to more port needed to tune so low. Port displacement. Your net volume for your sub would stay the same, but your gross volume for the enclosure would go up. It's your sub, and your build, but tuning to 25 hz is really low. Most rap doesn't even play that low. Maybe download winsld or ask someone to model that sub at different tuning. I fear you might be leaving a lot on the table tuning that low. But, like I said, it's your build, that's just my 2 cents.
    2 points
  35. there is about 10 different ways i had in mind to do this logo...but i need to get this job finished. So i am going to go with this for now. I have made it removable so i can get it out and make something different if i don't like it. So far i LOVE IT. White, matte black, gloss black, mirror and clear. Just enough of an offset to make it look grey-scaled out.
    2 points
  36. inbound7266050814491488826.mp4
    2 points
  37. There's a ground in there somewhere. There *has* to be BUT Don't get hung up on it. You're adding to your factory grounds, not replacing them. Ideally, if mounting positions allow: your best bet is to attach a ground to one of the mounting bolts on your alt. Barring that - a bigger/sturdier bolt / bracket you have access to that IS NOT part of a gasket. i.e. don't attach a ground to your valve cover.
    2 points
  38. Here's what modeling shows for your sub between a 1.5 cuft sealed (yellow plot) and a 2 cuft @ 32 Hz enclosure (orange plot): It's a lot of output lost using sealed in this case.
    2 points
  39. Hey, My name is Blake. I'm currently in the process of my first build and after reading Dafaseles entire build thread tonight I thought it would be cool to document mine. Its nothing big and its very beginner compared to most setups here. Hopefully this build can help someone new to subwoofer and car audio like myself. Build will be in an 03 Silverado. Center console is getting torn out tomorrow and the center console construction will start on Thursday 12/02/2021. Sub and amp wise I'm going with a Skar audio EVL 12 2 ohm subwoofer, and an RP-1500.1D amplifier. I know there's some hate towards Kevin and Skar products but this was on budget for me so I figured id give it a try. In terms of wiring I went with a Knu Kolossus 4 gauge kit Center console will be built out of HDO. Yes I know HDO is extremely expensive and maybe overkill but my family owns a concrete sky-rise erection company so I get fresh sheets of this for free. My plan is the sand the laminate off the top and stain everything a dark grey. I don't know how to upholster and I think a dark grey stain will look neat. Like I said, I'm very new to subwoofers, I've tried to do as much research as I could, if you see anything or think of anything that might help in this build please feel free to input, it would be greatly appreciated. I will be sure to post pictures along the way. Tomorrow being the first day. Thanks for reading! -Blake
    2 points
  40. Finished up lower amp rack wiring - all that is left is to connect the loose wires to upper rack and of course the main power and ground. Small triple terminal up top is for the Zen NavTV which will be replacing the amp under driver side seat. Still need to make a wiring harness for that, but will be attached from the underseat bracket side. Made some side brackets which will mount to OEM bolting locations of some side trim. Took a while to get everything lined up and drilled out properly but no doubt it will be solid once installed; So for the Zen NavTV, I removed factory amp (since that is where the MOST150 cable is) and copied the profile onto a piece of HPDF to make a proper bolt-on direct replacement bracket. I didn't grab photos of the OEM amp but basically this bracket matches up perfectly to the profile and bolting pattern. Turned out great - see below - Note: the Zen is just loosely placed - I afterwards drilled and tapped for permanent mounting - will take photos onc eit<s ready for install. For now I put my OEM amp back until everything is ready;
    2 points
  41. Found the exact relay I needed in my old electrical box. Yay! Wired it up the power and ground, as well as a small terminal block that will split the remote turn-on signal to the three amps to keep it super clean. No photos yet, will take a photo once I finish the 8-gauge wire runs, which should arrive today in the mail (I hope!). Also tested the relay on the car battery (I put pos neg on battery then put the relay activation on positive terminal, heard it click and saw voltage readings on my terminal block) - SUCCESS! ready to wire them to amps. Afterwards, I hooked up my Knukonceptz terminal tot he battery along with the post, so I could retain factory connector on VW positive battery side. It's all good and tight and as clean as I can get it considering the circumstances (I really didn't want to cut the factory mounting ring off). Here are some finished photos (note - fuses not in the fuse holder until whole system is complete and ready for install) Once again don't mind the dirty engine bay - it is definitely due a cleaning - winter here now and it will get dirty again for sure in short time!
    2 points
  42. New system time for my R32 that I've owned since 2006. This time around I decided to do a better sound deadening/proofing job. CLD/CCF/MLV throughout and CLD/hydrophic melamine foam for the roof. I also did a full repaint and overhaul on the suspension/brake system Stinger Heigh10-optical out Audison AV5.1k HD Full DA Bit Ten D Full DA with DRC Focal Utopia 165's (2) JL Audio 13TW5s XS Knuconceptz OFC cables/speaker wire
    2 points
  43. Some more progress on the subwoofer enclosure today. Finished the template for the bottom and did some trimming, finishing work on bottom piece. This will be a relatively intricate subwoofer enclosure, so taking my time since fitment will be important in the floor - making using as much of the space as I can. I will need to finish the enclosure before I start on the amp rack to see exactly how much space is left over under there. Here are some photos: started with making a cardboard template (thanks extra thick cardboard from new hot water heater delivery!) transferred over to a 1/4inch HDF piece, using my top of floor template to match the curve with bottom. I then modified my other bottom piece as well to get clean lines and curves, then 45degree chamfer to help it fit into place easily; Made a bottom center piece as well to go under that - this way I get extra air space in the box - from my calcupations, it gives me something like 210-230 square inches extra of airspace;
    2 points
  44. That was a heavy bitch. Box looks small in there.
    2 points
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