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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/19/23 in all areas

  1. getting close to having the wall done and wired up on 5 of the small amps( swaping to 5x 2500w rms amps in the near future , still need to seal it to the b pillars and other work but i got plenty of time before the next comp
    3 points
  2. progress is slow but i got the port cut and in today for testing and 3 out of the 5 sub amps installed its enough for some low power testing /checking making sure the enclosure doesnt have anything loose etc hopefully ill have enough time this weekend to get all 5 wired up and playing
    3 points
  3. Lexus ISF on NOS cold start 🥶 and rev (5.0 V8) ISS Forged SS exhaust
    2 points
  4. Sundown Audio X8 v.4 8” Subwoofer is a legit BEAST (SMD flash giveaway!)
    2 points
  5. closer , waiting ont he first 2 baffle layers to dry and then i can glue this one to those and install it for real
    2 points
  6. getting the inner shell done tonight
    2 points
  7. Crazy Hair Raising BASS! Slam Halen Mazda truck 18kw System 6 12" Subs Bandpass Blow-Thru (Finished)
    2 points
  8. figured id share my build this is my first build on over 20 years , my last build was 2x alumapro bp-12's built into the cabin of a 89 camaro, this build specs out as follows 4x sundown audio e8 v6's built my own 3.6 net cf slot ported box tuned to 34 hz the front doors each are getting 1x 8 inch dayton audio midbass , and 2x 6.5" recoil midranges along with the same in the rear doors for all the amps im originally wanted to run 2x jp23's and 2x jp34ab's but i ended up deciding to run 4x recoil audio red 1200.1 for the subs ( 1 amp for each sub at 1 ohm ) and 2x recoil audio rea 600.4 ab amps for the mids and highs unfortunately for me the biggest alt i can find for this car atm is a 250amp so im going to have to figure something out here more then likley building a bracket to mount a second alt im also building a 96ah headway bank 4 runs of 1/0 from front to back due to it being winter progress is slow even though i have most of the pieces needed to get this together first things to get done will be the alt and running all of the 1/0 runs as of right now i put the raw box in the car and im running it on a single red1200.1 and i must say i am very pleased with it on the single amp and i also got the front door baffles made and screwed to the panels but they need all the fiberglass work done which i cant do till it warms up for right now i have some pyle 6.5's in the doors that were given to me for free and the dayton 8's the amp rack itself is being built inplace of the rear seat bottoms anyways heres a few pics for the time being the one video is just them on a 60x2 amp i had laying around
    2 points
  9. Who remembers when I use to post my "REALTIME" videos? Well they are coming back
    2 points
  10. recoil has new amps coming amp ill be getting 3x of the 2500's to replace the 1200's , i also did start to deaden the doors got the driver side door outer skin done today , hoping to get one door done each day , i think im going to get some 150 mil stuff to do the inner panel with instead of using the 394mil stuff on that as well
    2 points
  11. You do subs up in hatchbacks, vans and SUV for example but in trunk cars doing subs up would rattle the trunk lid bad and that rattling is difficult or impossible to stop even after applying deadening so generally not recommended. You can try to use the box with subs firing forward or back, firing back is usually louder. Any other questions let me know.
    2 points
  12. Good lord Dude... That's like.... Double what I get. And I'm bottlenecked by my 5950x. Hot damn dude
    2 points
  13. Swapped McLaren mlt5s for PRV TW450S and added a 2nd tweet set ...doors will get finished eventually lol
    2 points
  14. Who cares if you “need” 5gig. You want it you get it. I’d shank my mother for that kind of infrastructure.
    2 points
  15. Like is stated in the video, I have spent the last two years since we moved into this house with the worst internet options known to man. We live in a forest somewhere in the Sierra Nevada's between Sacramento and Reno. I never thought internet could be as bad as it was. I got by with the local provider who climbs up a tree and aims an antenna at the nearest tower and then charges you an arm and two legs for service. That was $100 a month for my plan and with overages they were trying to charge me upwards of $400 a month! For service that wasn't worth a damn at 15 down and about 3-5 up. HORRIBLE. Then I got a business hotspot plan from ATT. That cost me $200 a month and was doing about 30-45 down and about 8-10 up. I added a Waveform flat panel external antenna and was able to get about 100 down and 28-30 up. Not to bad. I can survive on that. I had the entire house running on it through a very expensive mesh network. It was really the only choice. I was able to game on it no problem and youtube video uploads weren't too painful. Then i tried Nomad internet, another 4g LTE based service that hit off the Verizon towers. It cost $150 a month. It did about 30-40 down and about 15-20 up on it's best day. It was spurratic at best. No way i could game on it and uploading videos to the internet was hit or miss. Terrible. I got rid of that after about 6 months and tried a T-Mobile 5g service with the thinking i would maybe hit a T-Mobile tower and it could be better. I saw 60-75 down and 15-20 up. But again, it was unreliable as i couldn't upload very well and gaming sucked on it. For just $50 bucks a month, i kept it acive for an emergency backup. A few months later my Starlink arrived after waiting for a year and a half (we ordered it summer 2021 and were on a waiting list). That costs $110 a month and just now going up to $120 a month. It did ok at 100-150 down and around 12-15 up. We mainly used it for the entire house (i put it on my mesh network) and kept the ATT Hotspot (a Nighthawk M5) dedicated to my office. That was how we did it for several more months and it worked pretty good. But I was still paying $120 for starlink, $200 for ATT (business hotspot), and $50 for T-mobile (as a backup). That is a wopping $370 a month for total crap! Then one day, the sky opened up and the gods handed down Frontier Fiber internet to my neighborhood in the woods. Of course, when i saw 5000 up and 5000 down for $154 a month (and several other amazing teirs for even cheaper), i pulled the trigger and said let's go!! I cancelled all the other stuff and i am saving a ton of money. Maybe i don't need 5000/5000 but dammit, I am so excited to finally have REAL internet at my house I don't care! Give me ALL the bits! As you can also see in the video, i had to make some changes to my PC in order to achieve these speeds. Most PC's aren't capable of doing more than 1000/1000 and that includes my beast gaming rig with an MSI Godlike board. So if you do the same as me, be warned, anyting over 1000/1000 might not be achievable until you make changes. Typically the 5000/5000 is shared in the entire house so my PC doesn't NEED to have those speed all to itself. But I am on a mission to see those numbers with my own eyes. So i build a new one with a 10g ethernet port. The results were pretty good i would say!
    2 points
  16. I have a VW Golf (2017). It has the basic entertainment system. I wanted to go with a high level to my DSP. I had nothing but problems going that route. The VW head unit is looking for a specific resistance at the speakers. I was constantly getting distortion coming in and out depending on the recording and song (It would happen multiple times through a song). This happened on multiple music platforms. It didn't matter how we set the headunit eq or volume at. If it was flat, below flat, frequencies turned down or up. It always came back to distorting at some point. I did get the work completed through a reputable shop and was thankful that all the diagnosis did not cost me anything. There is a unit that can be installed that integrates the VW head unit and has RCA outputs (I don't remember what it is) Ultimately I had went to the aftermarket headunit. Zero issues since.
    1 point
  17. Some 56 square inches of total port area, two ports half that number for each port.
    1 point
  18. You need your new equipment professionally installed, that includes new wiring, battery, setting your gains correctly and such. Talking over the internet looks like is not going to be helpful in your case. You need a person who is properly trained and has the tools to help you.
    1 point
  19. You can forget about impedance rise, as long as you are not a competitor or you are not fine tuning an exotic type of enclosure, you just need to have a good working electrical system that is in the level of the amp you are using, good wiring correctly installed, a good amp that does the power it claims, and proper gain settings procedures, it is worth learning about that as well as owning a cheap little scope or a DD-1, if you can source 2K to your subs you will see a big jump in output and you will be pretty satisfied with the results.
    1 point
  20. The heaviest 12” Sub? 🔊Weight Check ⚖️ Pride Audio on the scale
    1 point
  21. Personally I've never liked the soft line setups, they just don't look as mechanical like I like. If you are gonna try your hand at custom bent solid tubing get a few extra sticks and a bend kit...takes ALOT of patients. My first few unused compression fittings vs bends. Have done a few with fittings just bc I like the way it looks. Biggest tip is make sure you are all copper or using a good coolant that works with dissimilar metals or you get to do it again when the coolant turns to mud and destroys all your blocks. Ask me how I know! This is one of my last builds This is the one that taught me about dissimilar metals and wrong coolant can do. Turned sludge grey and ruined EVERYTHING in the loop. Tho did look friggin awesome!
    1 point
  22. Alright now for the fun stuff. For subs I'm going with 2 Sundown audio x-8v.4's. Why? because 8's are Rad, and I'm trying to keep my care as usable as possible. But also because it's different. The original plan was 3 but I was having difficulty making a box for three that would work within my size constraints and the SA 2500.1 D would struggle to run 3. Maybe down the line I'll go for broke and run 4 off of a beefy 4k for shits and giggles, but most likely I'll sell off the extra 8. The Box that the subs are sitting on is a CT Sounds dual 8 enclosure with 3/4 MDF, a kerf port tuned to 39hz, and abou .81cu ft per woofer. It's on the smaller side but it was cheap and I figured it would be good to compare against a future box with a full 1cu ft per woofer and 32hz tuning. But first, I needed to fix a few things. These Cup terminals. Known for being leaky, So lets fix that. This is some Second Skin Butyl Rope that I had leftover from my last build. This stuff rocks. It's especially good at silencing license plates. This worked for me before with a sealed enclosure, just gotta really work it into the cracks. Next I put some ferrules on the wires because ferrules are awesome And Last I used a little Tessa tape (Fabric Tape) just to make sure the wires don't rattle against the box. And that's pretty much where I have to stop, at least until I gut my other car, and start building an amp/battery Rack.
    1 point
  23. The SMD VM-1 vs. typical digital readout volt meter under heavy load & fast double kick drums
    1 point
  24. Post pics and specs (box specs, amp, electrical, etc) of your previous setup, Sure enough the X subs are for the lows and not SPL but two 18s (if properly setup) should not be so disappointing unless the box is wrong or the subs are not driven properly.
    1 point
  25. I think this rig (such a rad OG audio rig) would be just fine making us all a fine fine breakfast, or din din. ... Such a iconic rig. Feel lucky i was able to get there and lick the windows, tho, i had a hard on for the lexus and the honda. The honda is when i even found Steve 4700 years ago lol..... Ping pong was lit also. Oh, and i did rub a few OG Fi/RE drivers, and a few OG amps he had in the back. May, or may no have rubbed a bit of gear in a not so cool manner. ..... Hope you are doin well bud.
    1 point
  26. Depens on what you mean by "together" but if I imagine right you would have a parallel tuned 6th order bandpass, still that would be useless because in such enclosures the chamber sizes are of different sizes, port area and port tuning of each port are vastly different, in other words that wouldn't work at all.
    1 point
  27. got the excess cut fromt he corners and had to call it a night ran out of daylight , i have 2 panels to install in the top of the box tommorow morning and then i can work on fiberglassing and sealing the inside before i put the outser layers on
    1 point
  28. You are running 1300W of power in your audio, no need for any other electrical upgrades if just playing music, No need to be checking your voltage unless something in your car is not working properly, the amps will work just fine in the 12-14V range no problem. If you are just curious as to why the voltage is being regulated the way it does, just have your electrical checked and then ask your concerns, to me, if your car works fine and your audio works fine I would just leave it alone.
    1 point
  29. So bear with me as this may get a bit long. The first step is the box, you have a big rectangle port fully internal BUT then looking at the pic you have a fully external port that is clearly smaller that I imagine goes through the ski hole and that has a different (smaller) port area and port length that you don't specify. To match your box specs you should only have a fully internal port 56 square inches in area and 16 in length. That external extension lowers the overall tuning and also reduces the port area significantly.
    1 point
  30. got the 3rd sub amp in and have the subs firing back into the cabin , am going to a compition this saturday so need to pick up another sono tube to cut down for a higher tuned port , lil scared i might loose the windshield , video below is very low power
    1 point
  31. low power testing with the subs in the mockup/test box subs back/ side fire 10 inch port tuned at 32hz
    1 point
  32. This should work BUT sub must be reverse mounted:
    1 point
  33. 1 point
  34. The whole entire reason I am upgrading my pc...for that 10g port!!
    1 point
  35. Your alternator capacity seems to me fine for the job, if you mainly play with your car on you should have no problems, if you spend a lot of time playing with your car off then you could probably consider a second battery. I guess the best way to determine if you should upgrade is use your system for a few weeks and see if your battery is holding up well and then decide what to do from there.
    1 point
  36. Hey guys, I'm the owner of LoudFiat. I'm working on my own high voltage amplifier and releasing my own HV products. AMA More info at http://www.LoudFiat.com
    1 point
  37. yooooooo. been a minute. this just brings back good memories. still alive, and now i choose the go fast life instead of the bass life. 2 kids and a wife since I last logged on.
    1 point
  38. No, I didn't miss word it. I was just wrong. Thank you for the clarification. I thought it measured both. I must admit, I only skimmed through the manual lol.
    1 point
  39. Yes, you can and should use the DD-1 on your DSP as well. Treat your DSP as a headunit, use the 0db tone and the appropriate tone for the appropriate channel outputs (IE, 1khz for front/rear dedicated dsp outputs, and 40hz for dedicated sub outputs on your dsp), this way you have the maximum clean a/c voltage output from your DSP. Also make sure all EQs on the DSP are flat when doing this as well! Now the one thing to be careful of is the a/c voltage output, you don't want to set it higher than your amps inputs can handle, so after tuning with the DD-1 you may want to check the rca a/c voltage output of the DSP because the DSP can and will take your 4v rca signal and turn it into 6-9+ volts output. So if your amps can only handle a 5volt input then you will want to back the voltage down some on the DSP, and then go and match voltage for each output. Then use the DD-1 on your amplifiers using the appropriate tones with your desired gain overlap setting (-5db, -10db, etc). I think my Audison Bitone DSP was putting out 11.7 volts clean when tuned with my DD-1 but I backed all the levels down to 4.5volts that I verified with my multimeter and then I have my amp gains up about 1/8, its very very little.
    1 point
  40. Awesome.... Good shit Steve. I own a Damore - 350.2, 400.4 and the 1000.1. I spoke with Tony,... and he told me, "dude, you may wanna wait a bit before ya buy the 1000.1". I didnt listen, and just got it anyway lol. He is a stud. Anyway, well shit, now i want to run the 1500. For those into them, and want a bit of info. The boards are great. Small, run cool. And if you know me, you know, i run all my gear hard. Not abuse it, but, i fucking run my junk. My shit doesnt sit in a spare room somewhere. From my vehicles, to my guns, camping gear, audio, all of it. I work hard, and i play hard, and my gear, needs to perform, or, i get something that does. These boards do, and for a great cost, and the build quality is top tier. I run 2 in my 4 runner currently, with a soon third (most likely the 1500, if i chose it over the 1000.1 i have). If your even thinking about one of these boards,.. click buy, and your welcome. KB
    1 point
  41. I'm still alive...... and still an asshole!
    1 point
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