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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/28/19 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    It has been known over the years some car audio companies provide unrealistic wattage numbers on their amplifiers in order to sell more. Sure, we've seen "1000 watt MAX" amps since way back in the 90's, but here lately the lies are getting out of control. Example in point, the WUDI Car Audio C-266, which is rated "5800 watts MAX" into 4 channels and 100x4 RMS. It's quite obvious with the $45 price tag, this 5800 watt number is a figment of someone's imagination. Possibly Chinese math misinterpretation? Must be! Either way, let's take a closer look at this amp and find out how much power it actually puts out. We'll also look inside and try it with some speakers. Watch on YouTube in 4K UHD quality or embedded below:
  2. 5 points
    The longest pillar build ever continues
  3. 4 points
    If it actually gets used, i may have to take a trip down to see it...and ride that West Coast Customs roller coaster too! Ill post pics if i do get to see it! If you see it before me, send me pics or post here!
  4. 4 points
  5. 4 points
    Put a fuse block in today and cleaned all the wiring up. Now I need to second skin my back wall/seat Mirror feel off today
  6. 4 points
    I would change them ,if U get a flat you’ll be fucked, and I already changed my wife’s Escapes lug nuts with solid ones, it’s stupid what the manufacturers are doing, happens to pretty much all the car lines. Aftermarket offers a solid lug nut.
  7. 3 points
  8. 3 points
    according to Maxwell the only way to weld the bussbars to the caps is via Laser, Resistance, or Ultrasonic welding. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO MIG or TIG the bussbars on as you will blow through the outer shield of the cap. best bet is to see if you can return them or sell them and reorder studded cells. sorry bud.
  9. 3 points
    Recently, I reviewed the micro-sized Sundown Audio SAM-500D amplifier and it appears a lot of folks are looking for small amps. While browsing Amazon, I came across this Skar Audio SK-M5001D for $119, which is almost 1/2 the price of the Sundown amp. I just had to get one of these in to try out. Let's find out how it performs and welcome Sam from Barevids as he joins us as our technical amp guru for the "amp guts" portion of the video.
  10. 3 points
    Well to start off here, my project is a 1986 Chevy Suburban. I picked this thing up and didn't really know what I wanted to do with it. Should I do a super clean build in it? demo build? showcase build? The options are endless but I've always wanted to build something original and loud. Once I got into this vehicle and really started digging in, I found quite a bit of problems with the floor. Some rust issues but nothing on the overall body that was too bad. Most of it was in the floor pan, which is quite common for this year but the overall body was in decent shape. There was a lot of past work on this vehicle and given all of it's wiring woes I wasn't sure I'd ever really trust it to drive down the road or be worthy of becoming a show truck. I decided to make it a demo vehicle, not built for strict spl but for fun. Something where I can showcase B2's product line in a platform that's a bit different and make it memorable. Some love it and some hate it. Some say how could you do that to a square body and some can't wait to see it get done. Floor will be fully steel to the B pillar with a full steel firewall and 7/8" thick plexi window. Full steel dash, full steel cage and probably 9-12 15's on 40-60k worth of power. I've never done a build log like this, but have always wanted to so here we go! (Also I am in no way a welder, and I know my shop is a disaster!) So here she was as I got it: This is kinda the idea for a box, but I'm up in the air. Have to deal with the tubs as well, so my options are a bit limited due to space. Looks pretty clean on the outside but she's got some issues deep down. The wiring on this vehicle is beyond a joke.. but we will get to that later. She's got a 5.7L 350 TBI swap from a 94 Silverado based on what I can find. The ECM and wiring was very poorly done here and left me with no choice other than to pull it all out and fix it. I can't even describe how bad the wiring is, a lot of it I couldn't even bring myself to take pictures of, just needed to get it out and start over. I also found that the harness for the ECM was cut in the middle at some point, and just twisted back together and taped. Like who does that? So out with it and time to get into fixing it. This was extremely painstaking to find out what goes where, what's been modified and who knows what else. So this wiring is ongoing, I'll get some progress updates on it later as it's still not completely done. Stripped the whole interior out. Air Suspension: I replaced the front and rear bags. Added two compressors, a new tank and managed to salvage the valves that were in use on this before hand. Don't have any pics of it yet but I'll get to them. The window: This is where it was to start with. She's got some rust in the lower corners and I had to CUT the dash out. On these models they are welded to the window/firewall frame. I've never built a SPL windshield before. I had some ideas to go off of and decided just to go for it. I know I wanted a split setup and not just a straight tank looking windows. After a lot of thought I decided to just go with something like this. Spotted her up and started moving forward. Made some side bars and got it mocked up a bit more. The goal here is to have two pieces of plexi that are flat, as getting it rounded or curved so to speak would take a miracle. The outer bars taper in a bit, and I did this so I had ample room to make some epic A pillar pods. There's almost no room from factory to put anything in the A pillar without it sticking WAY out. The sides will be welded flush with some sheet metal to clean it up. Started cutting out the floor. Oh boy this has been fun. Just as a side reference. Chevy didn't want this to come out lol and it really didn't want to. It's a major pain in the ass but well it is what it is.
  11. 3 points
    Use a 4 channel on the mids and tweets, then a 2 channel on the mid bass
  12. 3 points
    Yes you are on the right track about sealing that trunk tight to force the waves forward and also not wanting back waves to cancel out the front waves. Multiple layers of a good butyl deadener are rarely needed unless you are pushing major dB like 150+ To completely seal the trunk and block out all outside interference noise, you will need to apply Damplifier/Damplifier Pro on the metal everywhere (normal cars can get away with 40-60% coverage but large SPL builds should use Damplifier Pro in 100% coverage throughout the trunk). That will make the metal more solid. Then add Luxury Liner Pro (CCF+MLV) with the foam side attached to the Damplifier Pro the Mass Loaded Vinyl is what will block out the outside noise and also give your trunk a clean and even surface to reflect waves off of. With Damplifier Pro and Luxury Liner Pro completely covering the trunk area your sound pressure will not escape out of the trunk and will move forward into the cabin. If you treat the back seat wall you will be blocking sound waves from getting in the cabin so don't use MLV on the back seat. We can be reached at 1-800-679-8511 9 am to 4 pm Mon-Fri for any further questions. #SMDFTW #TeamSecondSkin @Joshdashef thanks for tagging us, it really helps us find the threads. We appreciate your support.
  13. 3 points
    Alpine 0850s dsp showed up. It was going to be a temp dsp but I actually really really like it and it will give me option to add a center channel if I ever want to in the future
  14. 3 points
    Cut & attached adhesive Velcro backing w/ roller. Cleaned dash several times to make sure adhesive will stick the first time. Fits & looks great, really happy with this purchase. I had to install it tonight, it kept sliding off the dash and driving me nuts. After installing i cleaned the car up a bit. I went to vacuum out the trunk but it was spotless. Had to take a pic, i never get tire of seeing this knowing it was my concept & hard work that made this. I think the Malibu will have a plexi glass window to view the Lithium battery and all connection. I have enjoyed building this and learning from it. I dialed in the system today and its sounding better all the time.
  15. 3 points
    i can’t believe how small this amp is! Im gonna test it, maybe tomorrow. Soundigital hasnt let me down yet so i have no reason to doubt it...but this is just crazy here! I think ill open it and show the guts too. I gotta see what is inside
  16. 3 points
    Will has been giving me shit. So I started installing finally. And what I'm most happy about is his pillars for better than oem
  17. 3 points
    Crossfire 4k. Used, but in great mechanical, and visual condition, ran at 17.9volt, and rarely ever seeing under 15 volt, even 2-3 minute full wang rips..... plenty of backing. We could consistanly, all day, every day, easily yank 6k plus outta these over 1ohm. Never got hot. Great great , very strong, well designed, and built boards. 3 left 700 plus shipping (lower 48) Of all the many different amplifers and combos we tried, in all the rigs we built,..... these, proved most reliable, and most powerful. Been just killer, dependable, good power making boards. Super stout, and i think, great looking. Small foot print, lots of output.
  18. 3 points
    Check this out! Our CCB allows you to custom design cables to your exact specifications. AND, you can see the cable you've created before your very eyes as you're creating it! You simply have to try it - it's super simple on your PC or phone! https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/custom-cable-builder/ Try it out and let me know what you think!
  19. 3 points
    going to swap out the grills for a different material but I think these should work
  20. 3 points
    Welp first piece of my car tapped out yesterday lol...I was driving to Sonic to grab a slushie and the clips broke and it smacked the shit out of me LOL
  21. 3 points
    why take the advice of someone with 4 posts LOL get the fuck out of here
  22. 3 points
    Heres the mids going in the stock location, made my own speaker adapters for the dash speakers and there door speakers. Hybrid Audio Technologies L6SE. Comparing stock speakers to my L6SE
  23. 3 points
    Testing fitting the top panel, next is wiring and installing some goodies.
  24. 2 points
    The backstory here is that West Coast Customs asked a handful of their partners to send them products so they could display them in the roller coaster's waiting area. They did all the heavy lifting - thousands of hours working with Six Flags and the roller coaster design firm. We just hopped in at the end with some products and good times at the grand opening last week. But we knew that the roller coaster was going to get 1000+ people every day, so we needed to get our display looking right. I reached out to Steve to see if he'd be interested in making a basic little sign for us using one of his CAD machines. Of course, Steve doesn't do anything basic. He goes way over the top and makes the most badass sign I've ever seen. It's not even a sign really - more like art. Thanks Steve!! Completely blew me, the team at Second Skin, and everyone I've shown it to away.
  25. 2 points
    No vs threads..... I don't know what the price comparison is between the two or the specs. I have 4 T2 6.5" in my front stage in the doors and it gets the job done. My crossovers are set around 90-100 hz due to any lower and my doors rattle pretty hard and the are deadened to shit so i use them as a low midrange driver because i have P3 8" drivers for mid-bass in the kick panels. I would research speaker installation and sound deadening process before pulling the trigger.
  26. 2 points
    ok i'm subbing to this!!! more pics please!
  27. 2 points
    I still got to a Raptor line her lower trim on the front and rear bumpers tomorrow so done for now , I was really impressed with this grill it came with a good quality harness for the LED’s on the grill , Gonna make it look factory with some connectors I got online. This stuff is the shit I’ve sprayed many trucks and cars , this is the first time using the rattle can version it still has a hardener that you puncture to activate.
  28. 2 points
    i like to smoke crack too
  29. 2 points
    @Triticum Agricolam @bcbrassard
  30. 2 points
    2 - std 4 (100x4) 1 - std 1k ([email protected] 9.5 out of 10 because they're used. Other than that perfect shape. 650 shipped
  31. 2 points
    Phhht! 3 kinds ain't nuthin'. My 4¼" Bluetooth speaker from big lots plays 5 kinds of bass, all day.
  32. 2 points
    I'm almost laughing hysterically
  33. 2 points
    Ok I got bitched at recently for giving my opinion. But adding a sub for midbass is not the correct way. Why not have the mids play it?
  34. 2 points
    I have it all figured out. But theres more going in the wall. The dsp and the power and ground distribution. And all woring is being ran behind it. But I got it to where I wanted it. It wont be seen as its behind the seats in a regular cab anyways
  35. 2 points
    Decided to upgrade the audio. Upgraded front speakers to some RF 6.5s, add RF 6x9s to the bag lids, and add an RF 4 channel amp. Front has all been done already but I am in the middle of adding the rear speakers.
  36. 2 points
    Customer Submitted Photo: Dan Vadillo's new Mechman High Output Alternator seems to be as entertaining him a bit more than he expected! Thanks for choosing Mechman Dan!! #PowerYourPassion http://www.Mechman.com
  37. 2 points
    This forum is for discussing MUSIC - ya know those nice little files you can toss on your thumb drive, music player, radio station, or streaming service and listen to. It is NOT for equipment or build discussion. For those inquiries, you can go here and find the appropriate subforum that best fits your topic https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/forum/63-equipment/ If you're new here, welcome to the forums. I'll probably just quietly move your thread to the right area while you learn your way around. If you've been around for a while, look with your eyes lest ye witness the magic of a disappearing thread. Cleaning up / moving 45 random topic that were dumped in here is just unreasonable.
  38. 2 points
    The hot seat in Steve's explorer is no joke, it hurts! haha. Plus this beast sure can move a lot of air. Beard tricks anyone? His ride Consists of 6 Fi 15" Subwoofers 6 Twisted Sound 3.5k Amplifiers JY Lithium Batteries SHTNONM September 21st-22nd. Mark your calendars and come to one of the largest shows on the west coast. Free food and water from the amazing SkyHigh crew. Jon always knows how to treat everyone well. Facebook link here https://www.facebook.com/events/381387529171661/?event_time_id=381387535838327 Recorded with Canon Rebel T3i Sigma 17-50mm 2.8 lens Sigma 10-20mm 4-5.6 lens Canon 50mm 1.8 Edited with Adobe Premiere Pro CC 2018 I DO NOT OWN THE RIGHTS TO THE MUSIC USED IN THIS VIDEO ALL RIGHTS RESERVED FOR THE ARTISTS The links to my social medias are below. https://www.facebook.com/luke.schaller https://soundcloud.com/rallybass88 http://instagram.com/schallerphotography
  39. 2 points
    Question unclear. Camshaft stuck in cone after it put a hole through the shower floor from a bad paint job
  40. 2 points
    So I'd like to start with a disclaimer, this isn't my best build; if there's something in it you see that's wrong you're free to point it out but I'm already very aware of it. I just wanted to get out of the prefab box I had them in for the past year, I'm currently saving up for a new axl, another pair of tens, some more mids, wiring and starter battery upgrade, and parts for an amp. This is a box I whipped up in a night free-hand with a jig-saw. A little self introduction, my name's Jacob, 18 and live in Louisiana near New Orleans, I'm working on learning amplifier repair and box design, and I'm also currently employed as an audio engineer at a radio station and produce music for local bands as a side gig. My little shit-whip is a 2010 Pontiac Vibe Base Model. So for starters box specs, 2.5cuft airspace, supposed to be tuned to 36hz (but peaks at 25hz and 47hz with cabin gain). I've got two Skar IX-10's wired down to 1ohm on an American Bass PH1600MD (Rated 800wrms). For mids and highs I have two Rockford Fosgate 100z2 amps one is running front and back doors and the other is running a pair of mids and highs pods I mounted onto the box. Front mids are Skar FSX65 with some soundstream tweeters, rears are running Rockford Fosgate punch 6.5" coaxs. The mids and highs pods are Skar FSX 8" and Skar 3.5" Bullet tweeters. So Whole system is under 1kwrms, but I also got a hand-me-down XS Power XP3000, and the Big-three done. This is a bad image but that taco bell receipt and post it have the box design on them that I drew up on my lunch break Here's a better view of the whole box So I am using all recycled wire and it was getting late when I was putting it together so I haven't trimmed the speaker and power wires yet, it'll happen soon. Here are my pods, I made them in 30min to site on top of my last box I'm already working on re-doing them to fit on this box, and one screw tore out plus they're just ugly AF EDIT: forgot to add, I had it metered and got a 135.94db outlaw at 47hz I also got a 131.9db at 25hz
  41. 2 points
    Honestly I wouldn’t want to put lithium into the harsh environment of under the hood. caps should be closest to the amplifier from my understanding. you could run both in the back just make a connection point for the factory system to the alternator ? Then run the two 0 gauge runs to the lithium then into caps then into amps. Lithium can output lots of current so it may need more than just the two runs into the caps to not bottleneck. so third options distro up front lithium and caps in back
  42. 2 points
    Received my 2nd Soundqubed S1-1250. I have them strapped right now, but may try gain Matching? Going to Droppin Hz Next week to get my gains set, so ill be good for Sundown Audio 2019. I really didn't want to rebuild my amp rack right now so i modified it to fit both Soundqubed S1-1250's. Still need to mount my 4-channel amp. I picked up a 4-way Fused Block today - 1/0 in and 4-4ga out. Do you think i will be fine running all 3 amps on that? or to much current draw for 1/0? Here is pics of my modified rack
  43. 2 points
    Beat the shit out of the Skar before you swap drivers.
  44. 2 points
    happy 2nd birthday Baby! he was about 7 weeks old when i found him so technically he is already 2. But today is his reborn day and official birthday as far as im concerned. This dog is amazing,. He is smart, hilarious, potty trained (easily) and well behaved. We all love him so much!
  45. 2 points
    I bought one for a 97 Chevy, 07 Avalanche, 02 Ford F-150, 13 Chevy Cruze, 17 Chevy Cruze, and a 17 Ford Excape. Each one a perfect fit.
  46. 2 points
    There is a bit of a complicated answer to this. Subs have two limitations on how much power they can take, there is the mechanical limit of how far the cone/coil can travel before bad things happen, and then there is the thermal limit of how much heat the coil can dissipate before stuff starts to overhead and come apart. Both of these limits are impacted significantly by the type & specs of the enclosure and the type of sound being played. The mechanical limit is more cut and dry, a sub can handle X number of watts at Y frequency before there is mechanical damage. The thermal limit is a bit harder to nail down. A sub can hand X watts at Y frequency continuously for Z amount of time. Notice I said "continuously". This is related to what the RMS rating is. Most subs can handle brief periods of MUCH more power, as long as its for a short amount of time and the sub is given a chance to cool back down, and as long as it doesn't exceed the mechanical limits. For example, when playing a ported box around the tuning frequency, there is tons of cone control and it will be extremely difficult to ever exceed its mechanical limits, however cooling isn't as good and impedance is low so there is lots of heat going into the coil. This is a situation where you could give a QUALITY sub 2-3 times its RMS rating, as long as it was quick. Now, here is how all that applies to T-lines. The way most people build t-lines these days results in a very oversized enclosure, IMHO. This reduces the mechanical power handling of the sub significantly. If the T-line reduces the mechanical power handling of a 1000 watt sub down to 400 watts, that's its. If you play more than 400 watts and the wrong frequency, say goodbye to your sub. You sub may still have tons of thermal capacity left, but its doesn't matter, in this situation mechanical power handling is the weakest link in the chain. The proper way to determine how your sub will do in a T-line is to model that T-line in simulation software such as HornResp. Then you will know just what you can get away with.
  47. 2 points
  48. 2 points
    Where to go? If Kennywcc needs directions to my garage, just let me know lol... Love it, beautiful cars!
  49. 2 points
    Filling in the screw holes and roundin off the edges gettin it ready ro bed liner it Port
  50. 2 points
    Been slowly working on the center console, finally got the foam the on and shaped, need to do some filler and some more sanding and it will either be painted or upholstered. I was planning on having it finished by tomorrow for the NorCal vs SoCal sound off.


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