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  1. I always wanted to strap 2 amps together and test them. Since i am dropping these two into my Ford F250 soon, i figured today was a good day to do that! For info on this amp visit http://www.b2audio.com More specs on this amp (pdf file) here https://www.b2audio.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/rage_amps_man_090119.pdf Thanks for watching if you did!
    4 points
  2. welp everyone i hate to say it but ive been trying for a month or so now to recover my password but i cant get into old email account so i guess ill start from scratch had 11 years on that account if i remember correctly but oh well i'm here and ready to rubble how has everyone been
    4 points
  3. I love it! I think it is missing something though. So i added this clear acrylic trim piece just to see if i would like it there. I think i will probably keep it and make it out of aluminum or stainless. I think it breaks it up nicely.
    4 points
  4. the wife asked me to make her a giant wall clock with Roman numerals. I guess i could have just bought one but it was more fun to make. Made of 3/16” black acrylic (laser cut) and a few hours of design time. It works great and she loves it!
    4 points
  5. Holy smokes its me again. So I bought an old school Alienware Predator case on the cheap and wanted to throw my current rig in it for pure nostalgia purposes. For those that don't know, these PCs were the BEES KNEES back in 02-05 and was my dream PC. So bought a case on ebay for 200 bucks that looked in decent shape to start. Equipment - CPU- AMD 5800x 3.8ghz GPU - AMD 6900XT 16gb RAM - G Skill 32gb 3600mhz HD - Seagate Firecuda 1TB m.2 Motherboard - ASRock Tiachi x570 Watercooler - AIO 360 radiator (6) 120mm EZDIY rgb fans Monitor - Samsung 49" Odyssey G9 Speakers - Klipsch RP15 with a 10" Klipsch subwoofer First had to take it all apart and start sanding for new paint. What it looked like when I got it, Plasma purple in somewhat decent shape, lots of scratches. Threw on some spray-on bedliner to coat the inside metal case black (no more retro steelie) Everything loaded in External Paint is a Ford explorer black metallic Finished product
    3 points
  6. The list of "150db" leader board on term pro, in just DB drag, is about 47 pages long. Just in the 1k class. Most, have 2 drivers, and not 18's. Your vehicle plays a big role in metering efficiency. If all you are doing, is chasing numbers, Id rethink your entire set up. (To me, the Fi btl, is one of the most rad drivers out there,.. i love them, especially for a daily ground pounder, but hey, do you)
    3 points
  7. Also got my rock lights back to working. Had a lil hiccup when the lift was installed. Got them repaired, and working again. 20220526_000307.mp4
    3 points
  8. True, TRUE sq, can get out of hand fast, budget wise. Speaker location, is huge, as well as direct over buying 4000 dollar focal rigs. Ive never done a sq build, but, buying seperates, over comp sets seems ideal to me (what ive done) as well as processing, time alignment, location, direction, sound dampening, vehicle resonance at specific frequencies, and such, then, that brings in tools. You will want/need a good mic, laptop/3software, and such, to show you bandwidth, peaks, valleys, direction, TA, and such. (Where a good dsp will help) Source can be huge, lossless files/music is a full other bag of monsters.... A true sq oriented building is super satisfying and SUPER involved. Most say SQ, and most just have decent gear in oem locations, and it sounds ok, and they call it sq. Gear,.. bring money. Most SQ guys, won't run anythkng but class A, or class AB. They are large amps, that make more heat than your generic class d turd. (See Tonys big boy, sq class holy fuck amplifer line, things cost more than my entire build) So, its all up to you, how far you wanna go down the rabbit hole. Cheers and good luck. (I think most that say SQ, TRUE SQ, really dont have any idea what they are getting into, but, if you're willing, anything is doable no doubt)
    3 points
  9. Since its an SIA amp, you most likely (or your "friend that knows more") have the crossover settings on the amp all wrong for sub use, it's a common issue with people that know it all but never messed with a full bridge full range amp before. It's so bad of an issue of this self proclaimed professional installers that been doing this forever send perfectly working amps back as bad amps for warranty. Watch this video which explains what the crossovers do and how to set them, since its a full range amp the crossovers basically work oppisite/backkwards of what they do on a typical sub amp that just outputs a low pass only signal.
    3 points
  10. Ive had 8 amps, on one remote line. Never had a issue.
    3 points
  11. Here are the Skar EVL (Yellow) and the Resilient Gold (orange) on your box specs. The Resilient Gold it looks they can work in a larger net volume than the skar, in fact their spec tops at 2.5 net per driver, they even have larger Xmax to back it up. Conclusion: these subs will work just fine in your current box but you may gain some extra performance going with a larger box.
    3 points
  12. It almost looks like a grey scaled filter or something...but it isn't. This photo is real life. green ain't exactly my favorite color but it does look good here! that's all for today! new video coming tomorrow!
    3 points
  13. Cover is held with magnets Template to make a recess Since it's been so long. This is what it powers
    3 points
  14. Crazy design built crazy fast but I do agree with you, if you enjoyed the outcome, in the end it's all that matters.
    3 points
  15. Thats 100% not the glue that they use on dustcaps. Also the way the surround is unevenly pulled away from the basket edges is rather jank So this was apparently rebuilt by someone with very little experience in building woofers. This is not Sundown quality and something like this wouldnt be sold as new. Your audio dealer is trying to play you for a fool, so I would throw this threw his shop window and put a gun to his head and tell him to give back your money.
    3 points
  16. a little bit of kitty hair, some sanding and it is starting to become one! i rattle canned them black so i can see how they will look NOT wood. Then i sanded some more. As of right now they are still ugly but starting to take shape, If you squint and ignore my sand paper marks you might be able to envision my vision. These will be wrapped in black suede to match the upper piece in the door panel. Hopefully tomorrow.
    3 points
  17. Haven’t posted here in a while. Thought I’d check in and say wussup. And contribute. One of My little projects
    3 points
  18. The lazyness of this animal Oh yeah hi I adopted a dog
    3 points
  19. Usually, cone area is king. So 2 subs on the same power as a single sub is usually going to be louder. Not crazy amounts louder, but usually you can hear a difference. You also have to take into account your space. A single 12" in the perfect enclosure can get louder than 2 15's in an enclosure that's not right. So you can't just go jamming in subwoofers to a space that's not adequate. To get the maximum out of the space you have available, figure out how much your willing to give up, then decide how many subs and what size.
    3 points
  20. Here's a cool project of making a car audio boombox coffin. I used old school car audio equipment including Rockford Fosgate source units and a Power 300 amplifier from 1988. Check it out!
    3 points
  21. No one answer. There's a lot of interplay depending on what you want to do. It's like buying a car, and asking what the most important feature is. Short answers: - Power handling appropriate for your needs - QTS for ported / sealed applications. Lower QTS is more appropriate for a ported box, higher for sealed. But don't get too hung up on this because there's a litany of exceptions and install dependent variables. Just know it exists. - xmax has an interplay here, but is not the sole decider. Subwoofer drivers need to displace a sizable quantity of air. All other factors equal, you can displace more air wit a driver that has a higher xmax. Again, don't get too hung up about it. - Higher impedance results in higher damping factor from the amp. i.e. the amplifiers ability to mechanically brake the inertia of a cone when the signal stops Anecdotally... And I have no data to back this up outside of some small-sample-size personal observations.... But for daily builds: I like drivers that have a very high BL^2/RE (motor force) for a given amount of cone area, with the lowest impedance coils I could possibly find (I simp for 0.35 coils), with stiff suspension, in a medium to larger box tuned fairly low with a medium to low amount of port area. Not the loudest enclosure, but they've always given me a rather ridiculous response range(think from 15-17hz up to 50-60+) with no muddiness / odd resonances, or issues with transient response / group delay artifacts. TL;DR: Don't sweat individual specs. Just buy a driver from a reputable company that'll handle the power you need to throw at it, then make a box to suit your needs. Pay mind if the manufacturer indicates the driver is intended for sealed or ported use.
    3 points
  22. - Honestly, you don't need a kit. You just need wires, ring terminals, fuse. Fuse should be placed on any positive wires coming off the battery, as close to the battery as is practical. - How do you know you're not clipping? - You might have better luck with 2 subs in a single box, as opposed to 2 smaller boxes - Be mindful of your voltage drops
    3 points
  23. Figured I would throw this in the Junk Drawer. It likely won't interest too many people here, but I'm going to try and put together a build log for the new shop. Tomorrow I'll shoot some video of the "old" shop. I've almost got everything there packed up. So yesterday I "washed" the floor using a garden hose and a shop broom to get all the dirt, grime and dust (or at least as much as I reasonably could) off the floor/out of the new shop. Spent about 4 or 5 hours doing that and the inside of the shop git 99 degrees (and of course humid as hell with all the water). Today I got in the shop around 10ish in the morning and spent the entire day applying a spray on sealer with a little bit of concrete stain to darken it just a bit. I used a product called V-Seal. It's pretty easy to work with and has almost no odor at all: I went with the 101 and Phase II. In hind sight I could have easily gotten away with a single 5 gallon jug of each. That said I ended up doing 2 applications of the 101 and a single application of the Phase II. Here is the before with the (mostly) clean floors and some paper masking the painted drywall: And a short video walkthrough before I got to work: Before.mp4 Here are a couple of shots applying it in sections. You spray it on and then work it with a paint roller: Here is applying the Phase II: And finally finished with both applications of the 101 with the stain and the Phase II: And a short video of the after: After.mp4 I may go ahead and do the stairs tomorrow, not sure, but I will definitely get a short video of the old shop. Here is a shot of what I have planned for the build-out / layout: If I added the stairs I would have to shift the spray booth to the right by the width of the stairs as well as move the inventory rack that is next to the Nomad / Assembly Station. I think I will also move the entry door to the Laser room to in-between the band saw and the drill press and shift the laser to the other end of the room. I'll figure out the stair situation tonight / in the morning LoL. It would be nice to have random/misc junk storage above the office/bathroom/spray booth, but I might just use a ladder to get up and down. Let me know if the shop build is something that interests anyone and I'll keep taking pictures and videos of the progress and continue the build log!
    3 points
  24. I've read that the kicker premade boxes are tuned really high. Like 45 hz or something. I've talked to a couple box designers and they all say the premade boxes for the square subs are way too small and tuned way too high. It'll work, and you'll probably like it, but having a box designed for the sub and the power you're giving the sub and the vehicle is going in its always best
    3 points
  25. That amplifier, in the right enclosure, will sound good on either sub. Remember, as far as sound goes, the enclosure makes all the difference in the world
    3 points
  26. The PR7000 was Jim Fosgate's first car audio amplifier, introduced at the Summer 1973 CES in Chicago, Illinois. This unit was ahead of it's time with RCA inputs, bass and treble boosts and more. Originally priced at $300 USD ($1850 in 2021), this amplifier was truly ahead of it's time. The built-in equalization circuitry would carry forward for decades inside future Fosgate and later Rockford Fosgate amplifiers. Thank you, Jim for your contributions to car audio!
    3 points
  27. Well, alpine has a reputation for being an SQ brand and Digital Design is known for being more of a brand that has great output, but still maintains a level of SQ. People might refer to them as an SQL brand. That being said, I don't think you'd be disappointed in either sub to be honest. You already know you love the sound from a type R, but if you wanted to try something new, DD is a great, strong brand as well with a great reputation. As far as which is louder and which can play lower, that mostly depends on the enclosure you build, or have built. In an install, the enclosure is probably 80% as far as importance of the install. Really only 20% equipment. And just saying, double check and make sure your electrical can handle that 2000 watts. If it can't handle it, it's going to perform like crap no matter what you do.
    3 points
  28. of course i can’t have no wires hanging. I know i am capable of running wires in walls…but i have an amazing electrician and its just easier to have him do it. Plus its another person that gets to make some extra money and i like giving people the opportunity to make some side cash .
    3 points
  29. Found that the head unit is clean to full/max volume. Set the sub amplifier at -7.5db overlap. I was close, but now I know the head unit is clean (my biggest want) and the board is set with my prefered overlap. Good shit. Gets down ok. Next, is fighting the roof rattles. I want to get into the headliner, put some mass up there in a few specific areas, and i think thatll help a ton. Also ran sweeps and saw what the vehicle and enclosure like. It has a super flat responce, barely losing a db in 20 herz. It has a nice nice "peak" around 28hz, and then again around 40hz. Its kinda acting like a band pass. I dig it. Im glad the vehicle resonates low. On to rattle fighting. 20220523_131052.mp4
    2 points
  30. You,.. have a lot,.. a LOT to learn. Recommend you keep on reading and growing
    2 points
  31. Bear in mind that many of those demo vehicles are using bandpass enclosures which can load the drivers not at a small range of frequencies like ported does but to a custom range that you can set (usually a full octave) in the case of 6th order bandpass enclosures, so they can be mighty loud with almost anything they play.
    2 points
  32. damn these amps look good! They sound great too! This clear lid i made today sets it off nice
    2 points
  33. No love lost with Ampere still always going to be a fan but this new 9k is doing work...I've gained 2 db on music alone clamping 35-4200 across the songs I've tested thus far and it's barely breaking a sweat...Also matches my 1200.4 so all is good
    2 points
  34. Alright thanks, I actually also just ordered the Knu Kolassus 4 gauge wiring kit OFC. And your right, watched a couple videos and did some research, glad I went with them over some of the cheap amazon kits.
    2 points
  35. They are typically posted on his website www.wccaraudio.com when they have them, but it's not often and they go fast!
    2 points
  36. I got it guys my polarity on my subs were off… I appreciate every single one of you who took time to reply and give your insight, Thanks much appreciated
    2 points
  37. I was able to get into the shop around noon today and got some work done between my day job meetings. Here's a short video with the first section of wall being mocked up: 20210913_131002.mp4 Here's a shot working off the tailgate of the truck. I don't know why, but there is something truly satisfying about working off the bed of the truck. It's therapeutic for me to do truck stuff with the truck in general. I definitely had that oddly satisfying high from using the truck for it's intended use all weekend long: I secured the 2x4 stud walls to the metal building by drilling a counter-sink with an over-sized forstner bit, then punch a hole through the rest of the 2x4 with a bit just larger than the screws and then finally into the metal building with 3" self tappers: I'm securing the stud walls to the floor using a RamSet nailer. Basically it uses .22 blanks to drive a heavy nail through the 2x4 into the concrete: I put two sections up against the back wall and the first free-standing wall in and then it was time for some cancer research and a refuel: I was using that unfinished sub enclosure as a step ladder to get the stud walls secured to the building since I had managed to leave my ladder at the old space. After some caffeine and nicotine I got the 2nd free standing wall for the dust collector room up: The 2x10 is just laying up there. I plan on hanging them, finishing out the AC air handler closet and maybe hanging a little drywall tomorrow. Here is a quick walkthrough video when I knocked off for the day. The audio is kind of $hit due to the fans and the air compressor, but its what I got LoL: 20210913_174522.mp4 After a shower, dinner and a bit of a rest, I went and grabbed the ladder and a few other odds and ends from the old shop and brought them to the new one and pulled the trailer back home so I have a bit more room to move around. I think I need a few more fans. It was 90 in the shop most of this afternoon. That wouldn't be too bad, but it was ridiculously humid today and I was pouring sweat the entire time I was up there. I can't wait to get the A/C in - that is going to be so nice! Hopefully more updates tomorrow And thanks for the positive comments, looking forward to updating the build logs in the evenings makes the whole thing more fun!
    2 points
  38. You'll know if the preamp is weak because the signal light either won't come on, or will flicker. You can sanity check this by setting it through your amp - turn the gain low and see if the head unit distorts. IIRC, some stock radios use a hard limiter of some variety so they won't distort. They just cap gain at a given threshold
    2 points
  39. 2 points
  40. If you post your max dimensions, I can give you some recommendations and possibly a design.
    2 points
  41. I hope you do too. My only worry is... to me...SQ isn't fun of it isn't loud, and loud isn't fun if it sounds like shit. I hope you can figure out both. For all of us. And P.S., California already announced that by 2030, it will be against the law to sell any new vehicles with internal combustion engines.
    2 points
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