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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/22/19 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    Who wants to win some American made Spectrum liquid sound deadening or Firewall ceramic thermal coating? We are giving away (1) gallon of each product on multiple platforms we run Facebook, Instagram, and the SMD forum. All you have to do is like this post, follow the Second Skin page on the platform (yes we will check), and tag a friend and type out either SPECTRUM or FIREWALL so we know which one you want to win!!! It’s that easy, good luck to everyone!!! All winners must be over 16 years of age and a resident of one of the continental US states. You are allowed to enter on all 3 platforms for better odds of winning. Entry period is 8-17-20 through 8-21-20 all winners will be selected Saturday 8-22-20.
  2. 4 points
    I absolutely love my new setup, all most complete. Still love how low it plays
  3. 4 points
    That's what I like about you @1point21gigawatts , you're humble. Always willing to do a good deed and not even need credit just kidding around. No but for real, dope numbers! Dope enclosure, clean install. On point! Hope mine comes out half that good.
  4. 4 points
    After many many years and many many different sizes and styles of audio systems I decided to go very simple on this build. The B&O mids and highs aren't the best, but for factory they are pretty good so for now they are staying that way. This build consists of adding a single sub with ported box, using a Incriminator Audio Lethal Injection 12", Atrend 2.12cuft ported box tuned to 32Hz, a Sundown Audio SFB-1000D amplifier with a Audio Control LC2i. I also have some important NOTES at the bottom of this post for anyone who is doing an install similar to this in a 2019/2020 Edge ST. Here is my baby. There was one main hurdle in this install, that's the power wire there are very few factory spots, in fact I could only locate one, it wasn't until I actually bought the gear to put in my edge did I finally get off my butt and use that spot. This is an oval shaped grommet on the left side (as you look at the engine bay) firewall. This Photo is NOT mine however it shows the location of the grommet I used. I used a tool I picked up a while ago to make this easier they are wire insertion tools, I got a set of them one is 8 gauge the other is 4 gauge. https://www.amazon.com/Thexton-THE476-Wire-Insertion-Combo/dp/B000K1IEAC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 Here is a picture of the 4 gauge one I used to run my power wire. After getting it through the grommet you will want to push towards the left side of the vehicle, so towards the passenger door, the wire will eventually poke out from behind the blower which to get to you have to undo the glove box which has a small side arm that you slide inwards slightly then pull it out, then there are two tabs at the top of the glove box you push in slightly then pull down the glove box. Here is a picture of the power wire at the battery. I then routed the wire down the step panels all the way into the rear hatch area. Be careful of breaking the white clips ford used for the step panels and other panels inside the edge, if you break some, as I did, grab a bag of them off amazon as I did. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ML5BW95/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I also recommend this kit if you don't already have one, helps a lot with removing clips and panels with little to no damage. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081GFP4SK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Since I had the power wire done, it was time to move on to the amp/LC2i mounting. I wanted to do as little modification as possible so I used a small piece of plywood covered in black carpet to fit inside the foam insert under the rear hatch. This was screwed in from the bottom of the insert to keep it from possibly sliding around. With that done, I used a 1 and 1/8th hole saw bit to drill out a hole and put a snap grommet in with a little adhesive. I then routed all the wires in and got things where I wanted including the fuse holder. With that done, I then moved to putting in the box and holders for it. The holders are just 3/4" plywood carpeted and screwed in from the underside of the floor cover. And here is what it looks like with my normal use things in the rear, the net and 3 moving blankets. Overall, I am VERY pleased with how this came out, the sound is perfect for me. And I can remove the sub/box in under 5mins, wire nut cap the leads and have all my cargo room back if necessary for a trip to HomeDepot/Lowes. NOTES 1) This vehicle has Active Noise Control, and this WILL introduce a solid TONE over any subwoofer addition using a converter such as the LC2i or similar. You can use Forscan with a laptop to turn off ANC, you will need the OBDII adapter and the software around $80-$150 depending on how long of a license you purchase for forscan. You can also cut the ANC wires (I don't know which they are) at the amplifier. OR you can do what I did which was free, and only a minor pain in the rear, AND it does not modify the vehicle permanently. There are THREE ANC microphones in the Edge ST, two up front and one in the rear hatch in the headliner. The rear microphone is the ticket, you can pull up the hatch seal that contacts the headliner at the rear, then gently pull down the headliner, there are a few magnets that help hold it up, so do NOT freak out when they disengage. Then you can squeeze a arm in and undo the clip on that rear microphone, and your ANC is now OFF. 2) Subwoofer wire tapping; there are 4 wires to the factory sub in the Edge ST because its a DVC subwoofer. At the time of doing this install, there were NO diagrams online I could find, so I reached out to some contacts and I got information for what each pin is. Coil #1 Purple/Blue is Positive, Yellow/Blue is Negative. Coil #2 Yellow/Purple is Positive, Green/Blue is Negative.
  5. 4 points
    Here's a few photos of what has been installed in my daily driver. Headunit: Kenwood DMX905S Processor: Helix DSP Pro & Director Amplifiers: 2 Helix G-Four (Fronts and Mid Bass), 2 Hertz 3001 (6k watts at 2ohm) Subs: 2 15" DB Drive WDX 5G Mid Bass: 2 6.5" Helix P6b Mid range: 2 2.5" Audio Frog GB25 Tweeter: 2 1" Helix C1T Batteries: 3 - 1 stock engine bay, 2 Northstar AGM 34M Alternator: Quality Power 300 amp Thanks to 1point21gigawatts for taking the time to answer my questions and advice on the subs i am using etc.
  6. 3 points
    I am starting my first build log. I've been doing car audio for about 15 years but this is first build over 3k. I have been meticulously researching and planning every detail and stacking up my purchases little by little for about 10 months but have waited to put everything all in at once. I've always done my own installs but this one I will admit I was a little over my head. I wanted to find someone that would work hand and hand with me threw the entire job who was familiar with higher spl builds, custom wood working and knew what they we doing. Out of all people whom I touched base with including several car audio install shops I was most impressed with my consultation with Brad Van Valkenburg from Jackson, MI. He has the experience, a carpenter by trade and a heck of a passion for car audio and getting things right the first time. We worked together for 5 days straight sun up to sun down and I couldn't be happier with the ending result. Enjoy!
  7. 3 points
    Drop the drama, keep answers to the original post. Next person who tries to poke the stick is going on vacation. No, I don't care who started it. RMS = root-mean-square = average voltage under a sine wave. Remember integrals? Think about it. It'll come to you. Square waves will carry a higher RMS but will not carry a higher peak voltage, ergo there is no increase in motor force to the driver. Additionally, periodic DC contamination at the top and bottom of the wave will change the inductive behavior of your driver. Big tl;dr power from clipping / sawtooth wave =/= power from a clean sine wave. You can fudge the numbers higher by clipping but it won't translate into real world usability, and I would argue would even be a determent. Now there IS a standard of rating power established by the consumer electronics association (CEA) which theoretically means it will output rated. But you'll often find that the magic logo and claims can be falsely applied to products. Higher end equipment often won't carry it since it's a moot point - word of mouth advertising, independent tests, no point. And add to that, many cheaper amps just stick big meaningless numbers on the box to deceive consumers who don't know any better to make a sale. All that to say.... Your question regarding amplifier ratings doesn't really have any straight answer. Regarding the dd-1, it detects distortion based on an ideal sine wave as a reference point. Not all amplifiers will work with this due to either signal delivery or how they handle signal processing. Regarding your gain, it's a ratio of input voltage to output voltage. It is NOT a volume knob. Half gain is not half volume. Example: Amplifier has a maximum clean output voltage of 50v RMS or ~71v peak to peak (dictated by the power supply of the amplifier). With an input voltage of 3v, you would need that ratio to be 23.7:1. Since it's just a potentiometer with no fine labeling or detents, and there is a great degree of variability in input signal strength, trying to do any sort of math here would be an act of futility. That's where the dd-1 comes in. It helps you find the appropriate setting for your individual setup. As a point of note, you can turn up the gain past this and get higher readings on your multimeter sure. But you can't exceed the power supply constraints of your amplifier. You can't pull 100v out of a 71v power supply, so the equipment response will be to clip - to flatten out the top of the sine waves, which presents the issues I mentioned above.
  8. 3 points
    I’m thinking about running like 8 of them in a 6th order enclosure and getting another taramps md12000.1 on my next build. They are good subwoofers. But it’s the enclosure that matters most when comparing subwoofers, amp and enclosure. A subwoofer enclosure is what “truly” generates the sound. In car audio, a vehicle’s electrical is the most important and the second most important is the subwoofer enclosure.
  9. 3 points
    $950 a piece subwoofers got them and an enclosure that’s way too big lol for $600. It’s ok, I’d rather design my own enclosure.
  10. 3 points
    So now that we got a lot of the time consuming things out of the way we moved onto my beauty panel and my electrical. Brad really wanted me to take the beauty panel all the way up to the roof and wall it completely off but I was hell bent on leaving a space for me to see out my back window and staying in no wall class if I did decide to compete. Looking back on things today I wish I would have walled it into a big rounded forward facing kerf going into the roof. But I'm still definitely happy with how things turned out this way. I still might do that down the line though. Everything turned out great and I got to work hand and hand with Brad on the electrical to learn a lot of really good stuff. There's been a lot of things I've learned during this build to where I wont have to have someone else do for me next time. I'm definitely a hands on guy...
  11. 3 points
    Got a 03 sonoma (s10) that im rebuilding the system. It had 4 ct sounds stratos 8s on a ct sounds t1500. Hit 146s. Had 5.25 meso componets in the door and dash on a hypnoic 4 channel amp. (lost all pics due to photobucket bs. Going to do two audio dynamics 3100 series 15s on 3k rms. 2 setz of ad 3000 series 6.5 components in the doors on the hypnotic amp and the ct sounds 5.25 components in the dash off the deck for now. Not sure if it will be a 4th order bandpass box or a 6h order. Will take a few months to build. Using 2/0 temco welding wire, dual engine bay batteries and 2 alternators a 145 amp ad244 and a 270 js alternator. Will uodate once i got more.
  12. 3 points
    The idea of a "short" ground is to make sure it's as close to the same length as the positive cable. Since you are using the chassis (normally) for a ground you have to add that length + the wire length. You actually would have to map out the path it takes to the battery and add the wire length to that. So it could be significantly longer than the positive wire (or shorter too). I have zero idea how to do that though. If you were to run a ground back to the battery it would be just fine. Just super not necessary in most cases since the chassis IS a ground so you would be wasting money and wire. 18" isn't arbitrary, but it's also not a super specific number either. If your ground is 19" long and you cut it back to 18" you don't magically fix anything but you could be in a scenario where 18/19" does cause an issue and shortening it significantly can help. I would suspect that poor wire terminations and/or grounding locations are a much bigger issue with most people installs than how long their ground wire is.
  13. 3 points
    @never knows best, dude you been on this forum since 2014 and haven’t won any days, which tells me you aren’t helping people on here, which tells me you aren’t the most knowledgeable and helpful on car audio and are just an opinion giver and a hype man on this forum to collaborate with people who are knowledgeable and helpful on car audio. Make some weird Keebler elf noises and go play in your cookies while the grownups talk car audio.
  14. 3 points
    Got a little done. Door panels off. Removed most of the old wiring for fresh wires. Sprayed two coats of spectrum and started to brush a layer on also. Didn't want to stop but life
  15. 3 points
    see stuff like this wants me to blow my money and start a project lol maybe if i make a budget ill be able too
  16. 3 points
    I finally got to start on the enclosure. 8 sheets of 3/4" mdf. The large panels were cut with skill saw and a guide.
  17. 3 points
    Big thanks to @1point21gigawatts for the box design
  18. 3 points
    Still a work in progress but progress none the less.
  19. 3 points
    Went ahead and pulled the enclosures back out and stained them. I used a water based stain to prevent that temporary odor that usually comes from regular oil based stain. Then I finished my ports and reinstalled those. After that I moved on and installed my color coordinated voice coil bolt terminals and installed my speakers. The 25' of 8 awg wire wasn't enough for the inside of the box as well as the outside so I had to order another 25' and used temporary 12 awg on the outside for now. Learned a lesson about always leaving alittle extra wire to attach to your speakers to that away doing maintenance or pulling them isn't such a hassle. Went back a month later and re wired inside with longer 8 awg for convenience since I basically cut them right down to minimum length the first time Thee ol greenhorn strikes again haha
  20. 2 points
    That enclosure you have now looks good. Custom built. Don’t buy a prefab enclosure. Them prefab enclosures that are built to specs on certain subwoofers seem like the way to go, but them subwoofer enclosure recommendations aren’t always correct and they don’t factor in rms or cabin area. And most subwoofer enclosure recommendations don’t even correctly factor in the t/s parameters when it comes to the enclosure recommendations. Now when a company has minimal information about what the customer is gonna do with a product then they recommend something average and safe, no matter the factors, in regards said product. So that leaves too many variables unattended to. That’s why it is ALWAYS best to get a subwoofer enclosure designed and built according to you vehicle and car audio system.
  21. 2 points
    So I'm just starting my build for the 4th time. How many times have you just continued to iterate on the same vehicle? Haha! So everything now is ordered. Disclaimer: I am not building this myself. The shop EliteAudio EA is doing this for me. JL Audio RD400/4 CH1-2 - ML280.3 CH3-4 - ML700.3 JL Audio RD400/4 Bridged 200w RMS for each ML1800.3 JL Audio RD400/4 Bridged 200w RMS for each coaxial MPX165.3 JL Audio RD1500/1 For the 3 12TW3 This is how it's going to be wired: Audio Control DM-810: CH1-2 tweeters CH3-4 mids CH5-6 midbass CH7-8 coaxials CH9 (mono) - Subwoofer Head Unit: Pioneer DMH-Z5350BT Front Stage: Hertz ML 700.3 & Hertz ML 1800.3 - ML280.3, ML700.3, ML1800.3 Mille Legend Series 3 way Mille Legend Series 3" midrange speakers and 7" woofers. A Pillars: Hertz ML 280.3 Mille Legend Series 1-3/8" tweeters Rear Doors: Hertz MPX 165.3 PRO Mille PRO Series 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers Amps: JL Audio RD400/4 JL Audio RD400/4 JL Audio RD400/4 JL Audio RD1500/1 DSP: AudioControl DM 810 - DM810 - ACR3 Rear subs: x3 JL Audio 12TW3 So this is going to be fun
  22. 2 points
    Thats comparing apples to oranges there. The last DDs i had were the very lowest level subs they sell, the 200 series 10" subs, in that case YES, the 12" sundowns were better, BUT i have also used the DD 3512s, and they are much better than the sundown SA series.... It really depends on the series of woofers you choose for each brand. I will say you will get more bang for your buck with sundown. DD is very expensive to get their top of the line woofers. Sundown aint exactly cheap, but compared to DD it is a good bargain.
  23. 2 points
    I might look like an idiot... but I'm not going to front...I might have to use this technique
  24. 2 points
  25. 2 points
    Updated progress on box Needing to figure out how to best upload my progress images on here.
  26. 2 points
    Remember when I showed you the doors? This was the plan. Check it out before it gets upholstery.
  27. 2 points
    Figured since I'm finally starting to buy the equipment I'm going to use, might as well start a build log for anyone who cares. Hopefully it doesn't take me forever to buy all my equipment. Always, any feedback, opinions, tips and tricks, heckling, and straight up disrespect is always welcomed. I'll start with the subs. FI Audio was running a pretty good sale on black Friday this year. I had been bouncing back and forth in my head on what subs and brand I wanted to upgrade to. Something in my gut told me these FI subs are it. Never owned FI or known anyone whose ran them in their ride, but I never hear anyone say anything negative about them online. So I but the bullet and cashed out a little over $1,700 for 4 12" FI Audio Q series neo subs. Rated 1750 watts a piece. I was going to do 2 subs with the green logo, and 2 subs with the yellow logo (because I'm a huge Oakland A's fan) but then it dawned on me..... it's going in a blow through box in the bed of my truck. No one's ever going to see them.... so I just kept the green logos. Looking back now, I should have went 15"s, but no going back now
  28. 2 points
    https://resizeimage.net/viewimg/guQTLMaNPSxczbbZ/cmA7w/20200911_204948.jpg https://resizeimage.net/viewimg/TmWySw0WtnceDjX2/LS6oe/20200911_204916.jpg
  29. 2 points
    Yeah....I’ve learned the bigger I make the front port I lose output between the upper and lower tuning frequencies....I.e my 23hz tuning and 47hz tunings don’t lose output but the valley of frequencies between those to tunings drops as much as 5db depending on size...10in rear port is the largest I’ve went...previously had a 8in and a 6in with 8in being the loudest but 10in sounding the best overall
  30. 2 points
    Rear chamber is 15 cuft Net tuned to 23hz with a 10in aero port(Big ass port) but has been shrunk to 13.9....front chamber is 22 cuft net...but has been shrunk to 19 cuft net....I’ve had it since 2016 and have swapped rear ports sizes and tunings 9-10 times and front port about 15 times ranging from as large as 400sq in to as small as 169 sq in to get it dialed in to what it is today....does a 155+ from 18hz -58hz with its peak in the 30s([email protected] 34hz) usable 150+ db bandwidth is 16hz-63hz
  31. 2 points
    Not trying to be rude at all, but next time you have a question, or if you have any follow up questions, please make sure they are placed in the correct sub category. Thus particular question, I would have asked it in the mids and highs sub. Gotta keep scrolling until you find the right one
  32. 2 points
    Didn’t connect the baffles yet so I can connect braces to one of the baffles and the connect the baffles and then connect the double baffle and braces at the same time. Not the prettiest cuts. Jigsaw cuts, no sanding. Cut the cuts snug on the first cut. I was stoked about that because that’s what I was trying to do. I usually just intentionally cut the cut out smaller and sand fit them. But I didn’t want to do that on these heavy subwoofers and it was getting dark.
  33. 2 points
  34. 2 points
    because you slathered it in wood glue, it won't be a weak point so good call there. and everything mr. Gigawatts said is correct, you should be GTG
  35. 2 points
    LOL. Thank you. I was definitely held to a tight budget. You can still deal with life and still do the things you love. Some of us takes longer to reach those dreams.
  36. 2 points
  37. 2 points
  38. 2 points
    Instead of 2 1/0 gauge feeds, only do 1 because that smart 3 only needs one 1/0 gauge positive feed from the back battery positive positive post to the fuse block and then to the amp. Then you would have to do a 4 gauge feed coming from the positive post of the battery to the fuse block then to the speaker amp. Because the speaker amp, plus the subwoofer amp together would pull a bit more current that one 1/0 ofc wire can handle, so there has to be 2 runs coming from the back battery, one 1/0 gauge run and one 4 gauge run.
  39. 2 points
    I know it’s off topic but it’s on point. Go deaf bonce!
  40. 2 points
    Hello, I am new to the car audio game but I would like to share my adventure and my build with you all. HUGE shoutout to @1point21gigawatts, @Backwoods, and @Fish Chris. The help and information you all provided me with helped me piece together a system I am extremely happy with. Thank you. My Car "470BRZ" My gear: Kicker CompR 12" 2ohm Kenwood DMX706 GX628 6.5" Door speakers Absolute x20BK Carpet Sundown SFB-1000D AMP EFX 4 Gauge Wiring Kit Stinger Pro 12 Gauge Speaker Wire My first ever custom Box build due to the limited space my trunk offers. Headunit installed with carbon wrapped trim pieces to match the rest of my dash. Sub box completed and amplifier installed. VERY tight fit. Overall, I am extremely happy with the results. Thank you for checking out my build! Any suggestions on how to inprove my build or future upgrades would be much appricated.
  41. 2 points
  42. 2 points
    Checkout how well the CNC did for these little things.
  43. 2 points
  44. 2 points
  45. 2 points
    Haha I seen the wallet one before! I got lots... But don't wanna blow them all at once....
  46. 2 points
    That’s crazy. How can 2 15” subwoofers on a taramps smart 3 do numbers like that on a regular bass reflex enclosure? Whoever designed that subwoofer enclosure must be really good at designing enclosures to generate the sound that the person wants out of it. I wanna meet that guy. He must be so awesome. I wish I was more like him. Lol!
  47. 2 points
  48. 2 points
    Time to install the box...finally! It's a super tight fit, but it works. Had to put some foam pads underneath the back of the box in the bed to accomodate the weight of the box during the cab/bed flex.
  49. 2 points
    Hey everyone, Here is my "Be Cool" party bus, its nearing completion for show duty and even some private party events :) Little info on her: 2001 GMC 3500 series Short School Bus 6.5 Diesel sitting on custom 22.5 Alcoas. Power: 2 x JS-370 amp alts 6 XS power AGMS Audio: Custom 6th order Wall 2 x DB Drive A7 3500.1s sub amps 2 x DB Drive A7 125.4s high and mid amps 4 x DB Drive WDX 5k 18s subs 4 x DB Drive P7 6k component sets Pioneer AVH - W4500NEX source/screen Cool: (its in Texas, in order to BE cool, this is what it takes) Front engine based AC system Center RV Roof AC setup Rear Carrier AC system Lightning Inside: custom LED pods x 12 on wetsounds lightning controller, generally set to just swap color but can be defined to a single color or to react to music. Interior: Custom drivers seat Custom Party Area bench seats Stripper Pole with lighting T-Shirt, Hats and Coozie merch shelf above the sub wall I will update with more pics when we complete the inside 100%. still have more trim to build, lots of small stuff, custom camera system to delete all the mirrors outside the bus, custom TV and Camera setup inside so party people can act a fool and record it.
  50. 2 points
    I hooked up the 3k and got to listen to it for a couple minutes and man did that extra thousand watts make a big difference. Sounded wonderful. But right after installing the new amp a guy hit me up wanting to buy the 2K, sundown subs, and the custom box... he PayPal'd the full amount to me because he can't meet up until Monday... So I unplugged it... Since they're no longer mine I don't wanna keep pushing them. I did order the SSD 15s though... So no more changing my mind LoL

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