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  1. ^^^ Yup, especially when your on a tiny island surrounded by salty ocean like he is because that process is nothing but sped up with that salty moist air!
    2 points
  2. periodically check for corrosion for under hood battery connections , for lug connections always use glue lined heat shrink , for direct wire connections (set screw type) use a wire ferrule with heat shrink to better protect wire from moisture .
    2 points
  3. Found some snow! ft. dog who gave herself brainfreeze
    1 point
  4. I am building a bed blow through box for my 3 sundown x15's. Is a 24" wide 12" tall port too small? I have cut the blow through hole and it looks really small for that much air to be pushing through. Will it choke? I have a bucket seat on the passenger side, that I have to keep in the truck(kids). So I can't extend it very far to that side. Thanks!
    1 point
  5. Our biggest sale of the year has arrived. You won't get a better deal anywhere else on American made soundproofing! 20% Off plus free shipping in the contiguous United States. Use BF20 at checkout now through November 27th, 2022! WWW.SECONDSKINAUDIO.COM Keep your eyes peeled for our ONE DAY ONLY mind-blowing Cyber Monday deals popping off Sunday at midnight through Monday at midnight EST.
    1 point
  6. I've had a week of cloudy days. Is there any alternatives to curing sun flash resin on a cloudy day?
    1 point
  7. DC Audio NEO Elite 18” Subs - show me something more beautiful than this! DAMMMN!
    1 point
  8. Say you have a 2 channel amp that you can bridge to a single channel and in bridged mode the amp is stable at 4 ohm. Say you have one subwoofer that is 2 ohm per coil, then you connect the coils in series so that it matches the 4 ohm output of the amp. Then you connect the sub to the amp like this: This is just an example and your sub amp may need to be connected differently, an incorrect connection may damage your sub and/or amp. Your sub should have printed how many ohms is each coil, typically for cheap subs you get 2 ohm per coil or 4 ohm per coil. Also post the model of the amp. When you connect your sub to your amp correctly you get more output and a much louder system.
    1 point
  9. that's why lug connections (with glue lined heat shrink) are the best for battery connections on battery terminal blocks ( especially on under hood batteries and battery deletes ) , the use of wire ferrules w/ glue lined heat shrink for amp inputs . tinned wire will also help too.
    1 point
  10. remember , CCA is only good for voice coils !!!
    1 point
  11. ^^ good advice Wire doesn't degrade unless something causes it to. CCA is a fair bit more sensitive to this on account of galvanic corrosion behavior + aluminum/s propensity to form oxide layers in air. Old aluminum home wiring needs grease in the connections for that reason. OFC is more robust in this regard. Tinned OFC, even more so. But even still - your connections should be sealed. Good terminations are gas-tight and impermeable. Either soldered, or crimped with closed-ended lugs, and covered with adhesive lined heat shrink. Normal 'decorative' heat shrink has no place under the hood IMO. If you really need to, toss some (high temp) hot glue in the connection before you put heat shrink over it - that accomplishes the same thing with respect to sealing. Aside from that.... Just inspect stuff periodically. Keep your wires off of sharp objects. Any rub-points should be bolstered with some loom to prevent frictional wear.
    1 point
  12. still more deadening for the doors , already deadened the roof with 2 layers of 190 mil Vibraflex for the front of roof and 1/2'' MDF for the rest of the roof , that was the biggest obstacle , now just waiting on Black Friday sale to pick up ANOTHER 4 channel amp ( already have 3 still new , 2 in the box cause i changed my mind ) so this 4 channel i'm getting is gonna BE IT ! anyhow , post some pics of what you've done in a recap , and stuff you're still needing to be done you will want to re-enforce that cab wall , at least wall it up with some MDF and PL-MAX ! that cab wall will be flexing with so much structure cut out , best to do it now before final install .
    1 point
  13. Bought a kicker L5 8 that turned out to be burnt up, So with a spare magnet off an old MTX and time I found some soft parts that fit reused the surround+cone, basket and dust cap! Double stack MTX magnet gives it a little more height tapped new holes for the basket bought a variety of spiders so I can feel which ones I like best before I glue them in, Everything here is from Lord Of Bass, Including the 4 gauge spring terminals. Coil is rated for 1500+ watts! turns out a ziplock container was the perfect spider ring to apply pressure while the glue dried. Braided 3 tinsel leads together per coil lead aswell cause why not? lookin good ports on point just add glue getting jiggy with the saw with the help of WinISD, it says with all six ports I'm tuned to 55hz, 5 ports is 50hz 4 ports is 45hz 3 ports is 38hz 2 ports is 32hz 1 port is 22.5hz Cant wait to hear it tomorrow when I put power to it
    1 point
  14. stock OEM speakers suck !! don't care if they are Bose , harrmon cardan , or other crap . get some decent aftermarket speakers and you can probably get away with running them off the head unit . if your on a budget , get a 5 channel amp to run mids and highs plus a sub or two , that will save on amp cost versus buying two seperate amps and spending money on more wire and amp install fees if a shop is doing it .
    1 point
  15. Switching over to the salt 8 maybe a pair of them eventually...
    1 point
  16. 4,000+ Watts for $400 bucks? CT Sounds 3200.1D Monoblock Torture Tested on the Amp Dyno (Results)
    1 point
  17. Not a ton accomplished over the past few weeks.. Almost complete with a pillars. Totally underestimated the Fab required.. these are the 1st time I've tried to make pillars in my life. Flocked them, still need to cover the grab handles. Also need to make the cloth cover with a MDF ring, the 3d printed ring warped BIGTIME in the sun Assembled the 3rd & 4th banks of lithium & supercaps. Mounted in the rear and started deciding where to place the distribution block Terminated belden cat6a to WBT ends(legitimate rca's - not the eBay specials lol) ran cat6 & rj45 to amps & processor in center console Installed arc 6.0s in the door
    1 point
  18. The first center cover is almost finished. Painted the dark grey metallic. Added silver metallic to the chamfered edge, and made a contrast line in silver metallic. A layer of Standox Liquid Silver (holographic effect) is added, and the cover is clear coated. And the new plate also has a feature that the original alloy did not have, the Boston logo's are lighted.
    1 point
  19. My system still isn’t what I want it to be:( installed a smart bass Taramps 5k with two d4s lto 6.0s. I have a single run of 1/0 welding wiring going from alternator to positive on lithium bank then I have a 1/0 ground going to frame of car. Big 3 is done with 1/0 welding wire as well. 270amp HO dc power alt installed as well. I have yet to install a volt meter although I do have one. Subs are wired to .5ohms and honestly I’m not that impressed. It’s a decent bit louder than the 3k I had powering both subs but I really thought it would blow my mind. I also seem to have voltage drop issues because I clip at idle after going full tilt for a few minutes. I’m really frustrated and want to give up and walk away from it all. I had high hopes for this system and hoped to enjoy it for years until it’s time to upgrade and rebuild. Here is my setup and my ground. Let me know what you guys think. I want to get this right
    1 point
  20. it wont stop raining here so i havent done anything util today. managed to get some stuff done this morning before it started again. This round im gonna try to seal off the trunk again and fire forward. gonna do a better job of sealing off this time though. Started out making a template and transferred that to wood and so on and so forth. Going to need some trim pieces for this gap obviously. this part was a pain in the ass to be honest. Myu solution will require a bit of bodywork and filler to flush it out but its not bad. A couple of rectangle pieces and a wedge or two with a weird angle on them should fill this in nicely Made the cutout for the box to fit into. The box is going to sit flush up against the back of this coutout. Here is the base the box will sit on Added some side panels to help seal off. i think i will screw the box into these to make sure its secure. maybe not, i dont know. would be nice to easily remove the box but i dont want any leaks either. Box will sit like this Thats all for today. gotta pull all this out again and then put sound deadener over all the holes i can find so its sealed off really good. then i need a lower trim piece for the front will probably body work the front panel to smooth out all the lines and hide the business end of stuff. I may just wire up everything to make sure the box doesnt have any terrible flaws before i get crazy. i have plenty of depth to work if i need to change anything. i only had about 5 hours to work today, so i didnt get much progress but i guess any progress is good lol. Thanks for looking!
    1 point
  21. me too! ive always wanted to do one. this one came out a little janky but now i know what mistakes i made and have a better plan for the next one! heres some more pics I dont like these corners sticking out, just asking to get broke off. that takes care of that! All finished up. might paint it later The next step is to toss it in the trunk and see how it sounds. i have a feeling my tuning is gonna be a bit higher than i wanted but thats no big deal. i think i want to seal off the cabin of the car and fire this forward into the cabin from the trunk. The lkast time it tried it i half assed it and it didnt work too well. so maybe i'll get it right this time \
    1 point
  22. little progress today. might work on it some more this evening. figure a speaker ring should give me enough thickness to support the sub. guess i'l find out.
    1 point
  23. had to kinda test how many kerf to make. i know hunter martin made a guide but who knows where it is anymore'='' second kerf cut made it looks a bit wonky in this view, i went the wrong way, or too far anyway. it wont matter once its all glued up and forced into place and shape. thats all im ding for today. i'll gp do some more work tomorrow. i think i shoulld have cut the speaker hole out first but as long as i clamp this down tiight and flat it will be fine. i'll add a second baffle when i ge to that point. thanks for looking
    1 point
  24. So I had to replace the mid/highs amp. It's starting to go. You could listen to music loud/low and on occasion you would get no sound for a few seconds. Tried different RCAs/deck same thing. I also did a complete front batteries delete/added headway cells. Cells were charged then connected. Since they are used from batteryhookup.com instead of being 8ah per cell they are prolly 5ah at a min, so we can say 100ah minimum. Can I play all day and voltage not drop yes. Also fuck Google photos. New phone saves everything to it. And I don't like it.
    1 point
  25. Hey guys! It's been a LONG time. I decided I would hop on here and share a couple of builds I have going on right now. my roommate and best friend Stephen just bought a Jetta Sportwagen TDI, and he has big plans for it. We started off with window tint (5% ceramic tint all the way around) and a stereo to replace that awful factory bluetooth setup. Today, we built the box and put it all together. I sold him some old Skar VVX 12 v3s and an RP1500.1D I had in my 4Runner (stay tuned for a build on that 4Runner soon!). Upcoming is KW Coilovers, Rawtek full exhaust, CR170 turbo, Malone Stage 3 tune and some head porting. First is tinting. Picking up wood in my Blackwood! No bed ftl lol. Equipment! Design Time to build! Time to put her in! She hides pretty well! lol. Stay tuned for more!
    1 point
  26. I have only run 1 battery forever. Upgrading the charging system. Mechman 370A alt. XS power 3400 and an XS power 925 here in the truck. Mocking up for fit amd a added a fuse panel to power and spit up all the wiring The fuse panel is on a bent up bracket over some other stock stuff mounted to factory screws. I used threaded insert as much as I can becuase I am always changing stuff. turn on relay mount You cannot see the stock bracket in the back and the new one on top of it Fitting trim panel and the trunk panel, still in primer building the box for the battery. Its mounted with threaded inserts to the car. Starting cover which will trim out the battery and hold the battery fuse and distribution
    1 point
  27. That is one clean ass trunk!
    1 point
  28. Been awhile guys and I’m laughing at myself and some of the things I’ve said on this build log lol. Feel like I’ve learned a decent bit about car audio since I’ve been active on this build log but anyways box is drying as we speak with its final coating of paint. Waiting on my alternator from Dc power to come in and will be ordering headway cells (doing a battery delete) to make a bank.
    1 point
  29. Thanks again! Never heard about balancing them out until you told me actually. I will be careful! Here is more about that alternator dc power sent me. Thanks for all the help
    1 point
  30. Thank you. I showed my wife the system at night. She said she will not get in it at all now. All because of how it looks with the blue lights lol. I don't feel so bad now. I felt the same way. Then again I've not sat right in front of them either. I might just have to now lol. I think this was the boys first time ever hearing a bass system also. Thank you again. Means a lot to me.
    1 point
  31. I've got the system tuned now will have to do vids with that part later. When I can drive my beast. Went to drive it down the road. The transmission decided it don't want to shift out of 2nd . So now I've got a 7k plus pound yard ornament I can sit in for now. The bad part is this transmission is just over 3 years old with less than 30k at most. Factory rebuilt one and it crashed on me. Not sure from sitting so long or what yet. These videos are with the eq settings flat. They are just very short ones. Not good with this yet. I had to see if it would move a half bag of halls lol. Kinda dumb but interesting 20211230_144001_1.mp4 20220108_123445_2.mp4 20211230_143921_2_1.mp4 20211230_143921_2_1.mp4 20211228_180122_2.mp4
    1 point
  32. Some updates on the system finally. Just too much crazy to explain. So crazy it sounds like a movie. Such is life I guess. With the help of many people plus Tony D'Amore and Tony Candela of CE electric. I have been able to eliminate almost all turn off sounds. Hardly noticeable even turning the key off before the stereo. Ended up using 8 spdt 50/30 relays for all speakers and subs. They get warm at full tilt but have not tripped once. Being done afterwards it still looks pretty decent to me.
    1 point
  33. Okay !! Got everything set up and have been playing around with it for a couple days. Still have them on barely half power that they will get clean and they absolutely slam !! I will get some vids when I got them on full power and broke in. I gotta keep messing and learn the setup and see where I wanna go. Right now box is 6.3 net cubes 132 port area tuned at 36hz going to be testing this setup and then possibly try 108 port area at 33.5hz. I have to pull headliner out though immediately and put some thicc Deadener up there. May even leave headliner out or come up with something custom. I will see what it sounds like deadened and go from there. Then I can continue testing. Honestly I didn’t know what to expect, but I’m overall thrilled with the setup.
    1 point
  34. Here’s how I have it layed out. Think I’m happy with it. I have ocd so it’s never perfect lol
    1 point
  35. Looking good so far! I don't care what anyone says, I miss my vortec 5.7 man!
    1 point
  36. Here’s 2 quick pictures to show the completed build. Not factory perfection but I’m very happy with it.
    1 point
  37. No good way to do wiring so I just ran it like that.
    1 point
  38. Looks damn good to me though!
    1 point
  39. Got things up and playing finally. Had several issues to get itnup amd going. Had to glass behind the 6.5's to separate them from the 8's. The 8's over powered them even with so much airspace. Then while I was setting things up and working on turn off pop crap. The stereo didn't come back on. All fuses and relays are good. So dash,consol,dash cap and the radio all came back apart . The ignition power wire worked to the plug under the cap. But where it went down into the dash to the ignition and back up I guess didn't work anymore. Also the ground to the radio didn't test out anymore with the continuity tester. That was from the negative battery wire to the ground wire. So I had to run new wires for both. The list goes on. I can't drive the burb now cause the reverse light trigger went out. The radiator blew the side out. One after another lol
    1 point
  40. Got box in and playing. Need to install my lifepo4 battery. Voltage dips to low 12s. Have a new 4 channel coming to replace current.
    1 point
  41. I think it looks dope as hell! Great job! Those accent lights look cool too!
    1 point
  42. Got the inverter,lights hardwired to the dash lights,the DSP and the plugs all wired up. Pretty happy with the look of it. Just wished that the headliner didn't pull apart on me. I plan on redoing the console later to make a better and cleaner look.
    1 point
  43. Gave the XS batts a face-lift
    1 point
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