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  1. the wife asked me to make her a giant wall clock with Roman numerals. I guess i could have just bought one but it was more fun to make. Made of 3/16” black acrylic (laser cut) and a few hours of design time. It works great and she loves it!
    4 points
  2. I've read that the kicker premade boxes are tuned really high. Like 45 hz or something. I've talked to a couple box designers and they all say the premade boxes for the square subs are way too small and tuned way too high. It'll work, and you'll probably like it, but having a box designed for the sub and the power you're giving the sub and the vehicle is going in its always best
    3 points
  3. That amplifier, in the right enclosure, will sound good on either sub. Remember, as far as sound goes, the enclosure makes all the difference in the world
    3 points
  4. No one answer. There's a lot of interplay depending on what you want to do. It's like buying a car, and asking what the most important feature is. Short answers: - Power handling appropriate for your needs - QTS for ported / sealed applications. Lower QTS is more appropriate for a ported box, higher for sealed. But don't get too hung up on this because there's a litany of exceptions and install dependent variables. Just know it exists. - xmax has an interplay here, but is not the sole decider. Subwoofer drivers need to displace a sizable quantity of air. All other factors equal, you can displace more air wit a driver that has a higher xmax. Again, don't get too hung up about it. - Higher impedance results in higher damping factor from the amp. i.e. the amplifiers ability to mechanically brake the inertia of a cone when the signal stops Anecdotally... And I have no data to back this up outside of some small-sample-size personal observations.... But for daily builds: I like drivers that have a very high BL^2/RE (motor force) for a given amount of cone area, with the lowest impedance coils I could possibly find (I simp for 0.35 coils), with stiff suspension, in a medium to larger box tuned fairly low with a medium to low amount of port area. Not the loudest enclosure, but they've always given me a rather ridiculous response range(think from 15-17hz up to 50-60+) with no muddiness / odd resonances, or issues with transient response / group delay artifacts. TL;DR: Don't sweat individual specs. Just buy a driver from a reputable company that'll handle the power you need to throw at it, then make a box to suit your needs. Pay mind if the manufacturer indicates the driver is intended for sealed or ported use.
    2 points
  5. Your terminations give me anxiety...... More amp overhead is always good. But... There's 2 things to be mindful of with it. 1. You need to be very careful with volume and gain so you don't push into mechanical limits. 2. There's a cost argument. With that said... I've wired an 8k to a kicker comp back in the day. Never ran into an issue, but I was careful with it. Can push equipment pretty hard with a clean signal, but there will also be no forgiveness if your fingers slip on the volume.
    2 points
  6. - Honestly, you don't need a kit. You just need wires, ring terminals, fuse. Fuse should be placed on any positive wires coming off the battery, as close to the battery as is practical. - How do you know you're not clipping? - You might have better luck with 2 subs in a single box, as opposed to 2 smaller boxes - Be mindful of your voltage drops
    2 points
  7. im going to go with this receiver for three sets of outputs. And time alignment and crossover settings. Pioneer MVH-S522BS
    2 points
  8. Ideally you want a a single sub to handle 2000-2500 rms or 2 subs to handle 2000-2500 rms in total (if you want to be safe) . I have run the Smart 3 on a few set ups and it was running about 2200-2500 rms at 2.5/2.7 ohms after impedance rise.
    2 points
  9. 2 points
  10. E Series 400 Amp Dark Blue Billet GM Truck - Mechman Alternators 400 amp Elite series alternator for 88-95 GM Truck (Dark Blue) - Mechman Alternators
    2 points
  11. You 100% would be fine. You don’t even need to do a big 3 and would be fine with minimal voltage drop. A big 3 upgrade and your voltage hardly would move. So that’s the most you need to do. I have a 1500 rms amp and a 400 rms amp that I just took out the vehicle I recently bought and even when I was clipping before I tuned it before I decided to take it out, My voltage hardly moved on a stock 110 amp alternator and no big 3 and a cheap lead acid battery. I’ve ran a 1400 rms amp and then a 1500 rms amp on a stock 130 amp alternator with no upgrades and a lead acid battery and then 2 amps were nasty. The 1400 rms was a mmats dh1400.2 at 2 ohms I was clamping over 1200 rms, I was clipping some, but whatever , and then that other amp on that vehicle was a Rockford 1500bdcp that was when I wasn’t clipping and on the bounded line of having to do a big 3 upgrade and that amp draws way more current than the amp you want. Draws about twice as much current. You are good dude.
    2 points
  12. 2 points
  13. Post them pictures bud! Would love to see it when it's done!
    2 points
  14. Ok, so let's start with cable. Use OFC car audio cable, or at least pure copper welding cable. It makes a huge difference. If you use car audio cable, 1/0 will be enough, but if you use welding cable, use 2/0. Car audio cable is oversized and almost twice as big (it's more expensive because of this). Bigger size means more stands, means more conductivity. From the alternator, you'll want to use 2 runs of cable to battery number 1. (In just going to refer to car audio cable). 1 run of 1/0 is rated for about 350 amps of current. Your 390 can potentially put out more than that, so 2 runs well disperse the amount of current between the 2, dramatically decreasing the chance of cable failure and also making sure you get all you can out of that alt. Some people fuse that run. You can for safety, but in my opinion, if you pop the hood and inspect it every once in a while, you'll be fine. If you do fuse it, fuse it as close to the alt as you can, and again as close to the battery as possible. From battery 1 to battery 2, I'd also do another 2 runs. Again, you can fuse this, or just regularly inspect the cable. From battery 2 to battery 3, 2 more runs. These runs I would DEFINITELY FUSE! there will be a huge section that you won't be able to inspect, so for safety, fuse it! Running from battery to battery, you're fusing to protect the cable. So, being as the cable is rated for 350 amps (assuming it's OFC car audio cable), 1 350a fuse per run AS CLOSE TO BATTERY 2 AS POSSIBLE. Do your runs back to battery 3 and fuse the same way AS CLOSE TO BATTERY 3 AS POSSIBLE. Then battery 3 to a fuse rated for the amplifier as close to the battery as you can, into the amplifier. The isolator is to protect battery 1 from depleting while the car is off, so you can start your car. If you don't listen to music with the car off, I wouldn't even use it. Let me know if you have any other questions, we all here will be happy to help.
    2 points
  15. You get more done on less sleep than I do on full sleep
    2 points
  16. Today was a bit of a rough one, got to sleep about 4AM and was back up and ambulatory by 9:30. Got to the shop around 2PM-ish and got some small detail work stuff done. Was able to get the 2x4 joists up on the laser room: And threw another outlet that will face outside of the room off the 20A plug: Built the filter box to filter air coming into the room when the exhaust is on: Got some lights in: And secured the window where the portable A/C will vent out: Here is the recap video for today: Hoping to get the power and data runs in tomorrow, get the drywall on the laser room and get the south-east / south wall insulated and drywalled
    2 points
  17. It can be, depending on who's building it. But if you have even a little bit of skill with wood (you don't need a lot) you can build your own. First you have to find someone to design you a good box. If they don't ask you what amplifier you're using to power the sub, that's not a good design. How much power you feed the subwoofer is important. Try to find someone who can also give you a cut sheet. The cut sheet will have all the different cuts to make on the 4'×8' sheet of wood (3/4" MDF or Baltic Birch seem to be the most used). Take that cut sheet to a lumberyard or someplace that will cut the wood for you. Get the pieces cut you need, take them home, glue it and screw it! Done and done! You have yourself a great sounding custom box. There are also tons upon tons of videos on YouTube that you can watch that will explain step by step in how to get it done.
    2 points
  18. That amplifier will do fine with either of those subs. Though it might be a little better paired with the 10. But if you prefer a 12, like I said, it'll move that 12 no problem.
    2 points
  19. I just hope mine look halfway decent and don't sound like shit lol
    2 points
  20. I must admit, the mule is pretty badass.
    2 points
  21. If you do, some videos I watched to help me with figuring out my process are CAF fabricating fiberglass door panels- Exo making door speaker pods from 8 years ago- and soundman bass van vlog. He spends almost a whole 2 years on his doors lol. Ain't nothin to it but to do it brother!
    2 points
  22. Just glue. Same with the male ends. I'm just going to drill a hole, and add that gorilla glue! Black. I'm planning 1 coat of primer, 2 coats of rustolium gloss black, then 2 coats of rustolium gloss clear coat. Same for the speaker baffles themselves. Yeah, I've watched that video. I don't think I have the tools, or the skills to make the moldings correctly. That's the only reason I didn't go that route. So just some good old fashioned brute force it is. I've only had time to do 1 so far. It turned out OK for only being a third of the way done.
    2 points
  23. A thought on forming them (or rather a youtube link) that may or may not be worth considering: He's using a press, but he mentions using your car to press form the mesh as well. Might be worth thinking about.
    2 points
  24. Yeah my boy in Sac is a Brand X retailer and the amount of people who come back to him bc they chose to go Auto Tech and it broke shortly after is endless
    2 points
  25. Where are you wired nominally.?? Cant imagine you need a ton more reserve. Just because you drop to battery voltage, isnt the end of the world, unless you compete.
    2 points
  26. Just to add to what @Never Enough Basssaid, they might not have your specific alternator, but if you reach out to them, they might be able to make you a custom alt for your truck. Another to try is autotech engineering. Another thing that will help big time is going lithium. The lithium batteries have a way faster charge and discharge rate than AGM batteries. You can't put them under the hood for heat reasons, but a battery delete is easy. Because if the size of your system, and being a smaller engine, you might have to run 2 alternators (depending on how big or even if they can make you a custom alternator). So just keep that in the back of your mind.
    2 points
  27. What all places have you looked at there's mechman, singer, js alternator, brand x, and there's more have u tried these places
    2 points
  28. Uuuuuhhhh! Flexing!!!!! How does it sound inside?
    1 point
  29. So you have a speaker terminal for each sub? So 2 speaker terminals? In that case, for the amplifier to see a final 2 ohm load, you would wire each like this so each would have a final 4 ohm loadand then once you hook each sub up to their respective speaker terminals in the amp, the amp would see a final 2 ohm load.
    1 point
  30. I crunched some number is Win ISD real quick. I'd shoot for 1.2 cu feet sealed and about 2 cu ft ported size tuned to 45 Hz. 40 sq in of port area would be the minimum and 50 would be even better. This is going to make for a fairly long port though so fitting everything in the space you have available is going to be the challenge.
    1 point
  31. What size speaker wire is that going to your sub? It looks really small. That also can be choking the power. Make sure your head unit isn't using any crossovers that might have accidentally been set wrong by accident. After you set your gains with that DMM, slap for a minute and check your voltage at your amplifier. Make sure you're not drawing too much power and dipping to low in voltage. It doesn't look like you cleaned the paint off that ground at all. Also, a bolt and washers will make that ground way tighter, thus a better conductor. I didn't read you did, but if you haven't, do the big 3 upgrade. And however you usually play music, play your test tone through that, through the head unit. Both at about 3/4 volume to make sure you're not sending distortion from either the head unit or the source unit.
    1 point
  32. Dodge has ridiculous stock alternators. I've seen a 65 amp alternator in a prius handle more wattage no problem. My stock alternator in my pickup, which is the same one he has, was pushing a little over 1000 watts back in the day. Granted, not clamped but total, but still.
    1 point
  33. It only happens with the 8k my 4 ch stays on, my voltage doesn't drop much at full tilt drops to 13.4 and I have the amp is at 1ohm I've double check every connection coukd be ground location as well im going to try grounding in a different location. I think I know what it might be just from looking at the picture I noticed something that might be affecting the amp if you look at the right side of the trunk the strong arm drops pretty low I think that it could be pulling the power wires connected to the amp im going to do see if that's what it is. But DAMN I'm very happy how well the zv5's handle this power they barely get hot thanks for the reply man
    1 point
  34. Now I need to hurry up and build this box
    1 point
  35. Just a quick update with a few pictures. I've been pretty incognito here on the forum and honestly been running pretty light on sleep trying to get everything done. A lot of this stuff is not a lot of fun when trying to do it by yourself LoL. Luckily I've got a few buddies that have been helping me out when they can. Good news! The A/C is in and is a HUGE quality of life improvement in the shop: I was able to get the laser room up except for the gate-wall that will close it off from the shop (same story as the collector room) and pulled the laser of it's shipping pallet. It certainly wasn't my best idea, but it was around hour 19-20 in the shop last Saturday and I was more trying to get something done than thinking clearly LoL Forks on Crushi weren't long enough, so I used Gorilla tape to add some 2x3 runners (2x4s would have probably been better - or longer forks): That was after getting the laser on the floor. When I heard this start to happen I got to moving with a purpose: Here are some shots of the laser up in the air: All's well that end's well, I got it down without critical 2x3 failure and rolled it into the laser room: I then proceeded to fill the rest of the room up with as much stuff off the main shop floor as I could to make room to work the scissor lift. Here you can see some of the crap in the laser room as well as the mad board we are installing on the ceiling. And here are my buddies that are helping me out: I finally have reliable (not particularly fast - but reliable) internet at the shop, so I've been able to go up there to work my Day Job and do little odds and ends work during normal working hours and then hammer out the bigger tasks after 5PM. I started sticking sound dampening foam tiles to the walls of the office today. They suck, they were cheap and it shows. I'm trying to use 3M adhesive squares to stick them to the wall and they keep falling off. I'm going to have to use some spray contact cement and permanently glue them to the walls... I had them all lined up when they first went on, but they have fallen off so many times they've ended up crooked as my patience to align them sticking them back up faded throughout the day. The new drill press was delivered today and the FedEx Freight guy who delivered it was super cool. He's building an '87 Chevy Malibu and asked if I could do the custom audio build for it. It sounds like he will be ready to do the stereo about the time I've got the equipment dialed in and am up and running. The guy was super cool, so I'll side - side hustle that job for him while I work on the EV stereo stuff. He's budgeting 7-9k for the build, so we should be able to do a pretty killer install. I think I see the light at the end of the tunnel - so long as it's not another train LoL
    1 point
  36. That's what I meant by I'm bad at the math, the online software is so foreign to me, I've tried to grasp it but I'm bad lol. I'm not asking to be spoonfed necessarily but I'm just tired of building boxes I don't use lol. Going 6 cubes isn't a bad idea but should I go areo? Slot? I still have my aero kicking around. It's a bitch getting a big ported box in and out of an f250 on 37s by myself lol Edit. I'll add that I had that 9 cube box filled with bricks until it was around 7 and it still seemed kinda farty..
    1 point
  37. No good way to do wiring so I just ran it like that.
    1 point
  38. So, today, my cousin came over with a chop saw and we framed out the 8" speakers in the doorswe where moving pretty well (glue accelerator is amazing!) But we ran into a major roadblock. The way I originally wanted to do the tweeters isn't going to work. There's just not enough space. I might even have to scrap the speaker grills for the 8's as well. The 8's don't need to be protected. I just would really rather them be behind grills. The tweeters on the other hand 100% have to be protected. They're not regular car audio tweeters. So I have to protect it from accidents. We think we have a good plan. The speaker grill won't be removable, but it is what it is. Another setback is that I really wanted to be able to open my glove box with the door closed. I will not be able to unfortunately. All this would have worked and been 1 million times easier if I just had gone with 6.5"s instead of 8's. Too late now. Just have to make it work Also, mounted my new Mechman alternator. I didn't get any pictures of it mounted because I didn't finish the wiring. It's a mess. Once I finish, I'll take some pictures.
    1 point
  39. Can't take pass seat out, daughter rides sometimes. Could always mount things to the beauty panel. Box is 1.5" thick so that pannel dont move. Could always mount up under the dash, move center console and mount standing, in the bed since i got a shell.
    1 point
  40. Finally got another bike after someone cut the fucking lock off my last one.... Went a little crazy and did a thing... Have another couple bits and bobs to wrap up on it, but it's there and rideable. Bigger brakes, storage baggie. Going to do some shenanigans with the rear hub to get my gear range back since I only have a single front sprocket now. It's a fucking blast to ride. And it's pretty nice not having to pay out the ass for parking lmao. Definitely not taking chances with this one. Have a fat ass fucking chain lock, U-lock, motion sensing alarm on it, and the thing comes inside with me when I'm home. Want to put GPS tracking on it, but have yet to find a tracker that tickles my fancy. Open to suggestions if anyone knows of anything - goal being to have something hidden in the frame or otherwise concealable, 7d+ battery life, <$10/mo subscription cost, and doesn't look like the manufacturer is going out of business (only 2 I found that I liked, the company is all but MIA). 1500w mid drive, 650wh battery. Get about 20mi on a charge riding like a bat out of hell. Closer to 40-50 if I'm reasonable
    1 point
  41. Looks damn good to me though!
    1 point
  42. You could have ran 1200 watts on the stock 65 amp alt.
    1 point
  43. A lot of reasons of what numbers people get one of yours look like Position of box is hurting your score…
    1 point
  44. Where those numbers taken sealed in the dash? If so, those are very respectable numbers. Yes, those subs aren't really super SPL type subs, and I'd be willing to wager that the enclosure is also built to play low, flat, and have a wide frequency response. Unless you're competing, try not to get hung up on the numbers. Do you like the sound? Do you like the volume you're getting from the subs? You can also try figuring out what class you would be competing in if you where to compete, look at the standings and what their setup consists of, and compare and contrast. Yeah, the top guys probably have burp boxes specifically for competing, but I'm sure in the top 10, there will be some guys with musical builds that just like to compete for fun
    1 point
  45. To be absolutely safe, I agree with you. Not a bad idea to fuse it. The only reason I don't is because after you fuse it as close to your battery, and as close to your alternator as you can, you're really only protecting maybe a foot or 2 of cable. But yeah, more protected wire, the better. I can agree with that.
    1 point
  46. You can buy a design or find someone to help you design 1 and build it yourself
    1 point
  47. Even a little progress is still progress. I hand dig a whole lot in my job. Sometimes, it feels like I can be digging a single hole forever and I start getting discouraged because it seems like I take a shovel full out, 2 shovel fulls fall back in the hole. You just have to keep telling yourself that you are making progress. That you still are moving more dirt than you think. Soon enough, you'll be done. No matter how fast, slow, big, or small the steps you take are, as long as your feet keep moving, you will always reach your destination!
    1 point
  48. Coming together I should cut up my doors and do some work
    1 point
  49. Working on cutting these bad boys out. Cutting them with the jigsaw.
    1 point


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