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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/06/22 in all areas

  1. More slow progress.. -Molded the beauty panel into the Cpillar with "kitty hair" & wrapped in suede- 1st time using the stuff, wayyy better than bondo - built amp rack as 1 piece, painted with krylon stone spray paint... yeahhh, I know I took the easy route but no way was I gonna be able to wrap it successfully - started lithium rack in the rear, 80ah & 500 farad on each side, big distro in the middle
    2 points
  2. Honestly I hate those things. MDF doesn't lend itself well to inserts of any sort. If you want threads, the best way to do it would be to laser out some rings from sheet steel, drill and tap those, bolt that to the back side of your baffle, then secure the driver to that. Barring that, the screws I've had the best luck with are some spax #8 multi material construction screws.
    2 points
  3. I’m not a fan of Kicker not trying to rip peoples choices , if you keep having the same issue with same box same subs that box is the problem, I don’t know the specs they need but you need the right built box for the subs and that means it has to be built. I called Sundown for my 3-10’s box and they were more then happy to help me out . Those subs are rated at 600RMS and because of the box and my good electrical they had 1K to each sub for 3yrs and never blew. Ended up selling to my friend and he still has them. Clean power and the right box for the subs they last along time. Also I think brand can help. I’ve built many boxes for people with no space never had issues but got to build the box . Last 2 boxes were 2 Sundown SD3 - 10’s and 3 DD shallow 10’s for me.
    2 points
  4. So I mounted them quick to get an idea, fed them from a b2 rage 2500.1 at 2ohm so they saw 2k.. Honestly thought it'd be a touch louder on 2k. Definitely over 150db for sure though (comparing to my older systems which I've metered). Either way, when all said & done they'll see 8k.. slightly more power lol. Did a little trim work & wrapped the amps in a vinyl. The beauty panel upper portion around the port will also be wrapped in the forged carbon vinyl & the lower half around the subs will be black suede. I'll have trouble wiring the amps as it's REAL tight. We'll see
    2 points
  5. Why not go to him then?.. but the F.I 4.9 looks nice I want to try one someday
    1 point
  6. 1 point
  7. Spent the last few weeks changing radiator hoses, stripping/gutting the interior, scrubbing all the old glue and padding out, and now rubberizing the entire floor. Still have a lot to go then on to thermal barrier and sound deadener. Then relocating the battery to the trunk, residing the entire car, laying down carpet, and custom fitting/installing new seats.
    1 point
  8. Best 8’s you can buy but Sundown , DC , Gatley Audio, also make great subs.
    1 point
  9. Wasn’t me, go read archive on ecoustics and damn can’t remember the other forum he is still a douchebag wouldn’t deal with him then won’t now, and you aren’t paying 450 for the same not even close, is that what he told you?.. he’s bias as shit with his stuff do you wonder why his shit ain’t winning in the lanes? One of the videos he was bashing a brand and wasn’t even the right people with those brands he’s so full of shit ..
    1 point
  10. He'd be wasting his $$ em audio is trash and is run by a complete clown man
    1 point
  11. BASS is the Name of the Game! Custom DC Audio 2.0k 2,000 Watt amp for DJ Magic Mike
    1 point
  12. well, a 18 has more cone, so....
    1 point
  13. Had to go sealed but did build one for 2 -10’s ported.
    1 point
  14. And as the saying goes there is more changes in the works some bad ass additions coming very soon so stay tuned
    1 point
  15. Yea, I had them replace the shitty job on the isolator with a rivnut. As for the mechman, the truck is a 6.0 v8. However, it doesn’t come stock with an alternator. I’m not sure how the stock belt configuration does work. I’m just repeating what they called me and said. The power steering is controled by the hybrid system and not the belt/alternator. I found a video through another audio forum that used spacers and some other pulleys. I’m hoping that it is a viable option. Either way I will post updates on the install. This is my first system and it doesn’t feel good knowing more than your installers for such an expensive project.
    1 point
  16. Yes, only the L (lamp wire) is needed to turn it on and charge, you will want to connect the L wire to a 12volt ignition switched power source, or use a toggle switch to manually turn it on/off when needed (but you need to remember to turn it off when you shut the vehicle off because you dont want it on when the vehicle is off if you go the toggle switch route). Also you need to run that size resistor in line with it because it will reduce the voltage and prevent the voltage regulator from burning up (this is something already done when its controlled by a vehicles computer, but when you are bypassing that and running your own power source you need to do it), this is a must or that new regulator will only last a few days at best).
    1 point
  17. Calculations can be greatly simplified if we assume all subs in the circuit have the same final impedance: Subs in parallel: total impedance = individual sub impedance / number of subs (1) Subs in series: total impedance = individual sub impedance x number of subs (2) For hybrid circuits such as series-parallel and assuming all groups(sub circuits) in the circuit have the same impedance: groups in parallel: total impedance = individual group impedance / number of groups (3) groups in series: total impedance = individual group impedance x number of groups (4) To determine the final impedance of dual coil subs (simplest case): Coils in parallel: sub final impedance = individual coil impedance / 2 (5) Coils in series: sub final impedance = individual coil impedance x 2 (6) Example: We want to wire 6 JL Audio 13W7 Dual 1.5 ohm coils to a 2 ohm stable amp: So using formula (6) we get final impedance of each sub with coils wired in series: sub final impedance = 1.5 x 2 = 3 ohm Then we use formula (1) to get impedance for 3 subs wired in parallel: group final impedance = 3/3 = 1 ohm Then we use formula (4) to get impedance of 2 groups of 3 subs wired in parallel which will be connected in series: Impedance as presented to the amp = 1 x 2 = 2 ohm
    1 point
  18. If they seem ok,I wouldn't worry too much. I'm sure they're a bitch to get in and out. Even with a USB, I still wouldn't max out my phones volume
    1 point
  19. That's good lookin' right there!
    1 point
  20. Well, before you go a completely different route.... How did you go about setting the gains on your amplifier? Those sound digital amps will do their rated power easy, and with those subs only being about 450 watt RMS, if you're sending too much of a clipped signal to those subs, they won't last long. How do you have your crossovers set on your amp? Do you have any electrical upgrades on the truck? Do you have an aftermarket head unit? Or are you using a line out converter? What are you using as a source for your music? A phone or something else?
    1 point
  21. Density only helps you if you're out of space to fit more. If that's not a worry, then I wouldn't sweat it. Reminders: - Get a cell balancer - makes sure all the individual cells stay at an equal state of charge. - Don't mix and match chemistries (or even sub chemistries). Delete your under hood battery. Granted LTO is way less sensitive to this. But still not ideal. - Convert your alternator to external regulation or otherwise make sure it's constant voltage. No hot/cold charge voltage. LTO is less sensitive to this because of the sheer cycle count and durability. But you still don't want to overcharge when cold or lose out on capacity when hot. Generally speaking, LTO is a wonderfully forgiving chemistry. Overcharging only reduces capacity(damages cells) - very low fire risk. Same with too much heat. So this stuff is less about safety and more about actually getting the capacity expected. 80ah of battery only holds at the appropriate state of charge. Charging low really sacrifices capacity. e.g. 6 cells in series. LTO is ~95% charged at 2.6v per cell, with full charge at 2.8v per cell. So if you're at 2.6v per cell, that's 15.6v for the whole battery. Nearly 100% charge - that's good. If, however, you're charging at 14.6v, that's 2.43v per cell, which is ~80% charge - not great, not terrible. 14v? Now you're down to about 60% charge on the pack. So that 80ah of capacity you paid for is only offering 48ah under these conditions. I think XS power is even more conservative with these measurements on their units
    1 point
  22. I’m gonna build my own probably gonna tune it around 25hz and my electrical is ok I have a mechman 250 and 2 d3400 running a audio apex cab 22 but planing on upgrading to maybe a sundown sia 3500.
    1 point
  23. I think I’m gonna add another power run and a second ground for my battery but thanks! I do like it and it’s violent lol
    1 point
  24. Box rise or impedance rise, I call it the same thing. Once you put power to the subs and it plays it rises. Everyone calls it something different, it's still the same. I'm happy you got it running, and once broke in it should get louder.
    1 point
  25. Well, as long as you figured out the problem and are happy with the sound, that's all that matters bud!
    1 point
  26. Did a little sealing from the rear this afternoon. foamed all rear body panels, between body & plastics then made shims for between plastics and box. Currently waiting for cure then ill work on the beauty panel. it'll be a mix of black suede and a forged carbon vinyl wrap
    1 point
  27. Holy smokes its me again. So I bought an old school Alienware Predator case on the cheap and wanted to throw my current rig in it for pure nostalgia purposes. For those that don't know, these PCs were the BEES KNEES back in 02-05 and was my dream PC. So bought a case on ebay for 200 bucks that looked in decent shape to start. Equipment - CPU- AMD 5800x 3.8ghz GPU - AMD 6900XT 16gb RAM - G Skill 32gb 3600mhz HD - Seagate Firecuda 1TB m.2 Motherboard - ASRock Tiachi x570 Watercooler - AIO 360 radiator (6) 120mm EZDIY rgb fans Monitor - Samsung 49" Odyssey G9 Speakers - Klipsch RP15 with a 10" Klipsch subwoofer First had to take it all apart and start sanding for new paint. What it looked like when I got it, Plasma purple in somewhat decent shape, lots of scratches. Threw on some spray-on bedliner to coat the inside metal case black (no more retro steelie) Everything loaded in External Paint is a Ford explorer black metallic Finished product
    1 point
  28. Had an injury so I was out of commission for a while, still have to wait to heal to do body work. Finally able to start light interior work though. Removed a lot of useless switches and wiring. Got the backseat completely removed and about to start cleaning the base metal and plot wiring runs.
    1 point
  29. Well, either amp asks for 1/0 gauge, so you should use that size to your amp and for your ground from your amp. If you use car audio cable such as Sky High Car Audio cable, Knukonceptz cable, or Full Tilt cable (there are other quality brands of car audio cable, these are just the ones that came to mind), make sure to use OFC (oxygen free copper) not CCA (copper clad aluminum).OFC is quite a bit more conductive than CCA, making it able to safely transfer more amperage. Welding wire is pure copper, so as long as you protect it, it should be fine. One thing to know when using welding cable is the size. Car audio cable is oversized, and welding cable follows the American wire gauge standard sizing. So 1/0 welding cable is a true 1/0 size, but car audio cable 1/0 is more closer to 2/0 welding cable (AWG) size. So take from that what you will
    1 point
  30. Yes but that's my minimum size going off of the box I made for the 3 12s, so I know that when I do the new box I will have MORE than that, tomorrow I'm going to remove some of the trim surrounding my trunk so that I can have more accurate measurements and I'll post those measurements along with the measurements for if i chose to do a whole wall behing the rear seats.
    1 point
  31. Started out arranging lithium, caps, amps & distribution all where the back seat was but it just wouldn't fit. All lithium, caps & distro will now be in the rear
    1 point
  32. No if you start smelling them turn it down...May only be glue burning off but is it worth ruining your equipment?
    1 point
  33. I'm afraid to tell you my 4 - 8" subwoofer meter. 148.9 @ 31 hz. with 4 VFL 8's on a Sundown SIA3500. 4 8's can get loud and still bang low. I wouldn't combine different kinds of ports. To really compete with a crew cab you might have to delete the backseat or go with a blow through.
    1 point
  34. Panels are primered now. Primered will be painted body color
    1 point
  35. Been awhile guys and I’m laughing at myself and some of the things I’ve said on this build log lol. Feel like I’ve learned a decent bit about car audio since I’ve been active on this build log but anyways box is drying as we speak with its final coating of paint. Waiting on my alternator from Dc power to come in and will be ordering headway cells (doing a battery delete) to make a bank.
    1 point
  36. Cover is held with magnets Template to make a recess Since it's been so long. This is what it powers
    1 point
  37. Just gotta put the top on and paint it and I'm done with the box
    1 point
  38. I’m working on doing a build like this in my 06 Silverado crew cab about to do a rear seat delete no wall as well. My past 2 setups just isn’t loud enough lol had a sundown x 12 in between the front seats then I sold it and done 3 sa 8s rev3 in the back since I had captain chairs out of a Tahoe.
    1 point
  39. What’s crackin’ yo! Here is part one of what I have completed so far on this Yukon. The box is a GP high output XL glue-it-and-screw-it tuned to 31hz. Internal bracing was radiused and sanded before I installed them. The triple baffle was built in layers, countersunk, glued and screwed with Spax hardware. It was then fit up to the Evil 15’s and thru holes drilled to accommodate the 1/4-20 threaded inserts. This way the subs are bolted in. Baby Yoda added for force! Any feedback or input is welcome! :]
    1 point
  40. Sub wall is almost completed. Got a few details I am planning still. Made the side trim panels removable. I will be adding fans on the sides to move air to the back and pull it out to the cabin. The back half of the burb gets so hot. You can barely touch the amps with no power. We hit 100 with 110 index. The amps were 160 with no power. I am gonna make a layered insulation piece for the back glass. Maybe it will slow the heat down. I've got it blacked out with grey primer and and a layer of rubberized undercoat. But it just heats up anyways. The top and bottom trims matched the angles even. Not pro but I'm very happy with this.
    1 point
  41. Also - I have some video of the build I was sharing with the customer along the way. If you guys are interested I can edit it a bit and upload it here. I think some of the video covers the wiring of the amp rack better.
    1 point
  42. Install day: Here are the only 2 shots I got on install day: You can kind of get a better picture of the rack wiring in this shot: The truck has 2 led-acid batteries under the hood but he is still rocking the stock alternator. We tuned everything with the SMD CC-1 and DD-1. There is a double-run of 0 gauge CCA power wire (1 run for each amp). I don't like CCA and strongly suggested he go back and run OFC - but again - budget constraints. During tuning and test bumping, his voltage was dipping below 12 volts (which was causing the amps to go into protect) I have been urging him to go with at least 1 HO alternator (or maybe even 2) but he has been focusing all his mad money on mechanical / engine upgrades. Every time we talk I remind him that he's leaving power and output on the table by not upgrading his alt, we'll see if he pulls the trigger on it. He hasn't upgraded to OFC runs yet, I think he's planning to do that before he does an alternator. Another note worth mentioning. The bass knob for those KXA amplifiers are wireless and you can pair multiple amps to a single knob. Several months after the install, the system output dropped dramatically and he said it sounded like it was out of phase and observed that two of the subs weren't moving anywhere near as much as the other two. He brought it by the shop for a troubleshooting session and (luckily) we noticed that the knob had lost it's pairing with one of the amplifiers. We re-paired the remote to both amps and re-tuned with the DD-1 for good measure and he was back to where we started on install day. Overall I was pretty happy how this one came out and the customer was ecstatic with the end result. Let me know what you guys think and what you would have done differently!
    1 point
  43. Amp rack build: The amp rack bolts onto the back of the sub enclosure. We didn't have a lot of options for a more involved amp rack (again due to budget constraint) so I did my best to decouple the rack from the enclosure using pretty big/thick rubber feet. The feet I used are marketed for PA speaker feet. Here are the initial CAD renderings of the amplifier rack: Here are some shots of mocking up the rack and playing around with amplifier placement and wiring routing. The window gets an acrylic window, but it didn't go in until after the whole thing was installed in the truck to minimize chances of scratching it: Here you can see some recesses I cut into the back of the amp rack for some red LEDs to cast a glow back between the rack and the enclosure. You can also see the registration points for the rubber isolation stand-offs and two of the fan ports: Here is starting to wire up the rack after the fans are mounted with some wire mesh fan grates/grills. The rack got a total of 4 BeQuiet 80mm fans. 2 Fans draw air into the amp rack on the low side, the other two exhaust air out at the high side of the box. Thinking being that heat rises. He's been rolling with the setup for a while now and hasn't had an issue with thermal protect as of yet. I really like the BeQuiet fans, as the name implies they are almost silent, but still manage to move a reasonable amount of air for their size/noise output. You can also see that I had to widen the mounting holes in the rack to give some adjustability. That goes back to the fact that I was still dialing in/fine tuning the tolerances on the CNC: Here are a few shots of the rack as it's near completion: You can see the red LED strips here: The removable face of the rack has white LEDs to illuminate the rack as well, but I can't find a picture of it with the LEDs installed off the rack: Here are some shots of the amplifier rack mounted on the enclosure: So the amp rack uses a 3-pin quick disconnect pigtail where B+, ground and the remote turn-on lead come in. From there it has a relay that provides more current to run the fans, LEDs and turn-on leads for the amplifiers. There are 2 toggle switches in the top of the rack. One of them switches a small bus bar where the bass amp turn on leads are wired, that way he can flip a switch to turn off the amps. The other toggles the LED lights. I left enough room between the 2 bass amps for a mids & highs amp he wants to install later. That's right, he has 4 Q-Class L7 12" subs on 3200 watts RMS and the front stage is run off deck power. This guy is a true bass-head. Next post will be the only 2 shots I got on install day.
    1 point
  44. These things are huge So running these will require some modifications to my existing speaker rings. The idea. Sandwich rings with PL. Route the holes. Need more clamps! Even needed one for the tweeter Bit of duraglass to fill the void around the rings Its slow progress but at least its some.
    1 point
  45. Hey, i just recently began basic audio upgrades in my 2000 dodge neon and your build is definitely inspiring me and i have already made plenty mental notes on how to setup everything based on your experience. Thanks for sharing and keep up the great work! as others have said, its really nice to see the level of skill and craftsmanship improve over the life of this project and i hope that i might have the time and resources available to grow my skills the same way you did!
    1 point
  46. Is there any reasonably priced box designers out there?? I'm only looking to design a few so I don't want to spend $250 on something incredibly bad ass that won't get used too often.
    1 point
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